Official DNA 40 introduction

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Heespharm

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I had mine set at 300 TP to 350 TP at 10 watts output also played with the out put 8 watts to 15 watts and it just didn't taste right - bad actually.

Then I read your post and said I wish I had what ever you are drinking. Sat here for a few minutes and said what the He!! I set the TP back to 450 F and the output to 10 watts and it taste great.

I was starting to have a LOT of buyers remorse because it just didn't taste good and if you alter the settings output watts from what I used on my normal mod and moved away from the factory default of 450 TP which I did almost from the get go it just does weird things.

But now a 10 watts out TP at 450 I am a happy camper.

Thanks for your post!!!

Also another thing I've noticed if I set the temp control to the heat of flavor heat i liked, then ramp up the watts from 12 watts to about 30 watts that there's a sweet spot that shows up..

E.g. At 0.13 ohm 10 wrap 28ga 2mm bit... Pinched and stretched the coil then pulsed it with it at 420 deg. then pinched again and repeated a couple times, then pulsed at 420 deg. Again and strummed the coils with a screw driver a couple times on all sides of the coil... Checked for darkening of the nickel... No darkening... Did this to reduce hot spots... Put cotton in the coil... Then I vaped 380 deg to 450 deg at 20 watts... 410 was the hottest I liked to go... Then went from 15w to 30 watts and 21 watts gave me so much flavor it almost hurt and too much wattage actually reduced flavor... Best flavor out of the magma I've EVER had!

And as far as hot spots, I did what I explained above in the example and then turned tx off and watched the coils glow then after watching, I tossed the coil and didn't use it... After practicing on about 10 coils, this is what I came to to reduce the amount the hot spots showed up when I watched the coils glowed...
 
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ukeman

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hard to follow this ^ but it did get me to try something; lowering my initial "sweet temp" from 480 at 30 to 35w (to get near to the sub ohms performance I'm used to, to 450 (factory default ?) and less watts...

It's a 3mm micro, 30g Ni200 (I've been making micro coils for years... its a snap; although not too too stable, but round and easy to wick) about 12 wraps came to .21 ohms.
(wiped Ni200 with alcohol, and rinsed with water ---)

Set at 450 and
at 12w, very nice vape; the temp only got as high as 405. Never higher.

Increasing the wattage 1 watt at a time the temp only went above 405 when I went to 15w. (410)
Flavor excellent and vapor too.

Went to 20w, temp got up to 420 max, and this is at the end of the draw and only a very long draw.

So... set at 450, the temp never reached 450 at up to 20 watts and I don't care to raise it any higher because I just cleared out a crusty coil, and quite deteriorated wick from 2 solid days at 480 to 500 and 30+ watts!
and the vape is super enjoyable. Really loving this device (VaporFlask).

Alright, I may go up a watt or two, and maybe go down to 430 like Heespharm.

Achilles Ti dripper (love it because of the design; air under the single coil, and juice wells - holds 2ml) the coil is a good 5 or 6mm above juice source fwiw.


Oh, I can actually fill it up to just below the air hole, but the wicking must be good to draw up the juice to coil. What used to drive me crazy with .8 kanthal 26g wire (occasional burnt vapes).
with DNA 40 never a dry hit; as soon as the vapor gets diminished, its because the chip refuses to fire a dry hit! Stoked!


another angle:

Cheers! :vapor:
 
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olderthandirt

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....Achilles Ti dripper (love it because of the design; air under the single coil, and juice wells - holds 2ml) the coil is a good 5 or 6mm above juice source fwiw.

On an aside.... I've been taken with the Achilles meself since I first saw the thing. Will acquire one no doubt!

ukeman, have you tried ReadyXWick / Nextel in the Achilles?

I love the stuff meself for wick, flat out hoovers juice down to the last drop. Tends to be a bit on the stiff side but the configuration of the Achilles looks as if it would work well.

Also, kudos to all you early adopters o' the DNA40.
This thread and the coil build thread are priceless with respect to the venerable tradition here on ECF of vape gear purchase enabling!
In love with the idea of a DNA40 bottom feeder (-:
 
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Checked for darkening of the nickel... No darkening... Did this to reduce hot spots... Put cotton in the coil...

So if there is darkening of the nickel what does that mean, that you shouldn't vape with that coil? I'm having trouble building a contact coil without any hotspots when I'm unable to torch the coil. It seems like after the coil is fired once and glows in any hotspots and discolors a section it doesn't glow again on subsequent fires. What does that mean as far as the hot spot is concerned?
 

Heespharm

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So if there is darkening of the nickel what does that mean, that you shouldn't vape with that coil? I'm having trouble building a contact coil without any hotspots when I'm unable to torch the coil. It seems like after the coil is fired once and glows in any hotspots and discolors a section it doesn't glow again on subsequent fires. What does that mean as far as the hot spot is concerned?

I don't think it means much just being overly cautious


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HolmanGT

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Glad I could help... Yeah me too huge " what's the big deal?" I didn't want to go above 400 but I seldom hit the temp control at 430with my orchid.. As soon as I did the flavors opened up!


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I have no idea why upping the TP level changed anything but it sure did. :thumbs:
 

SeniorBoy

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So, people with the new vaporshark dna 40s are going to have to look at their temperature fluctuate in the mirror? :laugh:

Actually the placement of the screen which you mention IMHO is important. My xpv 40 screen is located on the side of the square tube about half way down. I likie and easy to view. Of course, once you are dialed in then your less inclines to obsess over the display. :)

Actually, even if the board temporarily displays V when it should display F, I ignore it because the draw (air across the coil) always produces a temperature controlled vape which produces a tasty vape from the first or second draw when Boost kicks in to the last draw. The first draw might be a little weak in the flavor and vapor department but you still get a vape.


HTH

EDITED for clarity
 
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HolmanGT

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Actually the placement of the screen which you mention IMHO is important. My xpv 40 screen is located on the side of the square tube about half way down. I likie and easy to view. Of course, once you are dialed in then your less inclines to obsess over the display. :)

Actually, even if the board temporarily displays V when it should display T, I ignore it because the draw (air across the coil) always produces a temperature controlled vape which produces a tasty vape from the first draw to the last draw.

HTH

My Vapor Flask does that occasionally especially when it has been sitting and is cold. It will erratically display V when it should be F but after it gets warmed up it doesn't seem to do it. :confused:
 

want to quit

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the RDNA folks can just get out their Iphone, put the front camera into action and check their temp that way lol.


Actually the placement of the screen which you mention IMHO is important. My xpv 40 screen is located on the side of the square tube about half way down. I likie and easy to view. Of course, once you are dialed in then your less inclines to obsess over the display. :)

Actually, even if the board temporarily displays V when it should display F, I ignore it because the draw (air across the coil) always produces a temperature controlled vape which produces a tasty vape from the first draw to the last draw.

HTH
 

want to quit

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haha apple is behind compared to the galaxy phones but LG doesn't even have a front camera? ouch. Old school I like it buddy. At the end of the day its a "phone" to make calls. Miss the times when people actually had conversations rather than looking at their stupid phones all day long.

Either that or a webcam if you're in front of your computer.

(No fruit phone for me, LG G2)
 

ukeman

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On an aside.... I've been taken with the Achilles meself since I first saw the thing. Will acquire one no doubt!

ukeman, have you tried ReadyXWick / Nextel in the Achilles?

I love the stuff meself for wick, flat out hoovers juice down to the last drop. Tends to be a bit on the stiff side but the configuration of the Achilles looks as if it would work well.
(-:
I have tried every wick under the sun... and couldn't get RxW to work to my satisfaction but could keep trying.
I studied up on the RxW thread (and the Rayon which was another story) and found that Japanese cotton imo is easy, good wicking, and best flavor.
 

ukeman

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The coil temp increases if the wick does not supply enough juice, could it be that?

Even topping off and wetting wick in the process, temp hits 450 almost right away...
and finding watts stay low too, around 5w while holding around 450 (20w and still a good vape).

oh: the coil is reading .16 this morning after being at .21 last night (?)
 

TheKiwi

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Seems like a lot of issues with fluctuation resistance is either due to connections between mod and atty, or just the soft wires collapsing a little and making unintended contact with the atty.

I know that there's disagreement over torching it or pulse firing it red hot, but doing so and immediately dunking it in cold water (quenching) can help stiffen it up a little. I've tried it and it does make a difference. Only thing is the wire does become slightly more brittle.


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