Official DNA 40 introduction

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gray

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I use that link above to figure out how many wraps of kanthal...then use a reader for ohms...sorry edited while you were responding.....you can drop down to select the type of wire....is the type of wire we need expressed in the coil toy tool?

Not knowing the physics behind this it helps me understand if I plug in the numbers.

(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)

Try steam engine for the coil. The coil toy doesn't have NI 200.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

The max resistance is 2Ω for standard wire which is not temp. regulated and basically works like a dna30 when attached.
The max resistance for Ni 200 is 1Ω. This is listed in the Evolv data sheet as "Atomizer Resistance, temperature sensing wire, cold".
 

Bassnorma

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Try steam engine for the coil. The coil toy doesn't have NI 200.

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

The max resistance is 2Ω for standard wire which is not temp. regulated and basically works like a dna30 when attached.
The max resistance for Ni 200 is 1Ω. This is listed in the Evolv data sheet as "Atomizer Resistance, temperature sensing wire, cold".

Thanks Gray!!! :D
 

Bassnorma

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But now I need to figure out which Nichrome...60, 70 or 80 and I do think those are in the other link too...they are the NI-Cr entries? LOL, I feel like this right now....
slinky.jpgcubewtf.jpg

I see...Nickel 200 is what we want! derp..too sleepy thanks again!
 
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gray

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Quick question: given that we will be running such low resistance with nickel wire..... Wouldn't battery life be god awful at a specific wattage? Just the amount of current need to drive 30 watts to a 0.1 ohm build.

No, not at all. The device is regulating what it pulls from the battery. The old rules do not apply to temp. regulation. Evolv changed the rules here.
 

TheKiwi

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No, not at all. The device is regulating what it pulls from the battery. The old rules do not apply to temp. regulation. Evolv changed the rules here.

I'm not sure I understand your response.

You still control the wattage output, with temperature as a limit that you can set. That I understand perfectly.

But regardless, to output 30 watts on a 0.1 ohm build must necessarily draw more current than 30 watts on a 1 ohm build.

A little more clarity is appreciated.

ETA: I guess it'll be different in the sense that with the dna40 we won't be dumping 30 watts throughout the firing time once the temperature limit kicks in.
 

HgA1C

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I'm not sure I understand your response.

You still control the wattage output, with temperature as a limit that you can set. That I understand perfectly.

But regardless, to output 30 watts on a 0.1 ohm build must necessarily draw more current than 30 watts on a 1 ohm build.

A little more clarity is appreciated.

ETA: I guess it'll be different in the sense that with the dna40 we won't be dumping 30 watts throughout the firing time once the temperature limit kicks in.

With nickel, resistance increases with temperature fairly quickly. So you set peak wattage, and it will only dump for a brief moment, and then down regulate to not overshoot. At least that is what has been said in previous posts.
 

Jerms

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I'm not sure I understand your response.

You still control the wattage output, with temperature as a limit that you can set. That I understand perfectly.

But regardless, to output 30 watts on a 0.1 ohm build must necessarily draw more current than 30 watts on a 1 ohm build.

A little more clarity is appreciated.

ETA: I guess it'll be different in the sense that with the dna40 we won't be dumping 30 watts throughout the firing time once the temperature limit kicks in.
Doesn't 30 watts draw the same amps no matter what the resistance is on a regulated device?
 

Bassnorma

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With nickel, resistance increases with temperature fairly quickly. So you set peak wattage, and it will only dump for a brief moment, and then down regulate to not overshoot. At least that is what has been said in previous posts.

Ahh so it's that what Rossum meant when he said the resistance raises when the coil is hot? Must just apply to nickel...Thanks for explaining that btw....

(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)
 

TheKiwi

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Doesn't 30 watts draw the same amps no matter what the resistance is on a regulated device?

Frowns. With each passing day, I find my knowledge of vape stuff becoming less and less.

I'm gonna wait for the experts to educate me on a thing or two.
 

HgA1C

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Ahh so it's that what Rossum meant when he said the resistance raises when the coil is hot? Must just apply to nickel...Thanks for explaining that btw....

(sent from Mars, it's not as red as I imagined.)

With pretty much all materials resistance raises with temperature.That is why superconductors and other high tech equipment use liquid nitrogen cooling. It permits electricity to flow easier, materials vary in their rate of resistance increase.

Nickel is cheap and extremely predictable with a marked response. Not to mention it should be safe at the temperatures we are utilizing.
 

Ian444

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Quick question: given that we will be running such low resistance with nickel wire..... Wouldn't battery life be god awful at a specific wattage? Just the amount of current need to drive 30 watts to a 0.1 ohm build.

At the battery, say it is at 4V, then 30W will require (watts = volts x current) 30/4 = 7.5A. There are small converter inefficiences so it will probably draw around 8A.

On the coil side, the 0.1 ohm coil will get 30W of power. Power = volts squared/R or Power = current squared x R, that gives us 1.73V and 17.3A to the 0.1 ohm coil. But as the coil heats up its resistance will approximately double, so the volts and amps will change in unison.

That is what a DC-DC converter can do, that is, to take voltage and current from a battery and convert it to a different voltage and current to power the coil. Voltage x current = Watts. Here we have 30 watts taken from the battery and 30 watts delivered to the coil, but in different numbers of volts and amps. The battery life is unaffected, the battery is simply driving a 30 watt load, it doesn't know there's a 0.1 ohm coil or whatever on the other side of the DC-DC converter.
 

Jerms

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No.Here are the formulas [ Amps=Voltage/Resistance] does not equal [Wattage=(volts^2)/Resistance].
That equation will figure out the current draw from the converter, but not the current draw from the battery. Ohm's law works great for mechs, but with regulated devices the converter complicates things.
 

HgA1C

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That equation will figure out the current draw from the converter, but not the current draw from the battery. Ohm's law works great for mechs, but with regulated devices the converter complicates things.

Not my specialty. I was just trying to give a basic explanation. Thanks for pointing that out, I had not thought about the effects of converting DC to DC. Anyway the board would still pull different amps based off the conversion needs.
 

Jerms

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Not my specialty. I was just trying to give a basic explanation. Thanks for pointing that out, I had not thought about the effects of converting DC to DC. Anyway the board would still pull different amps based off the conversion needs.
Not my specialty either. Almost everything I know about electronics is from how it applies to vaping, and even that limited knowledge is fuzzy. I more accept how this works than actually understand any of it lol.
 
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