Official DNA 40 introduction

[Phone Guy]

I love my dna devices, I have several. I think the dna board is king of the hill, even though other chinese made boards have blown passed evolv in the watts race (if there is a watts race?) more watts doesnt make it "better" IMO. (ie: god 180w, sx350, etc..)

I rarely go above 20w on my Wizard dna30.... so with that being said, I will admit I want a dna40 because like many of you, I suffer from shiny-itis, its new, and I must own one.... we all understand that concept.

The temp part I dont get is this.... if I vape at 20w (lets say), ok its a hot vape, flavorful vape, ok...whatever it is at 20w I like it...ok got it.

now, if I have a dna40 and use 20w but use temp limit of 450f, wouldnt that kind of be the same as vaping at 9w vape (or lower than 20w is my main point here - I'm just throwing out random numbers as an example) it just kind of sounds like lowering your wattage would "basically" accomplish the same result? Realize I am asking a question, not being a smart .... I am really just trying to figure out why I want a dna40 and when I do get one, will I even use the temp control feature? The other additions to the dna40 are enough to make me want it, I am just stuck on the temp thing (probably because I dont feel its beneficial to me? I dunno yet)..... I know I cant use nichrome wire, it irritates my throat something horrible...so I'm not sure what nickel 200 would do...? I'm guessing similar, and even Pbusardo mentions in a recent video he can taste the "metally" taste of the nickel wire using the dna40....

Again, not knocking the feature or evolv... I love my dna's plain and simple... and for cloud blowing I use my drippers and mechs, so my vw devices are just for my tanks....

 

[Heespharm]

Yes it'll be lower wattage but if you like hot vaped raise the temp regulation and it won't ever get hotter than that to the point of burning bad stuff


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[KenD]

I love my DNA devices, I have several. I think the DNA board is king of the hill, even though other chinese made boards have blown passed evolv in the watts race (if there is a watts race?) more watts doesnt make it "better" IMO. (ie: god 180w, sx350, etc..)

I rarely go above 20w on my Wizard dna30.... so with that being said, I will admit I want a dna40 because like many of you, I suffer from shiny-itis, its new, and I must own one.... we all understand that concept.

The temp part I dont get is this.... if I vape at 20w (lets say), ok its a hot vape, flavorful vape, ok...whatever it is at 20w I like it...ok got it.

now, if I have a dna40 and use 20w but use temp limit of 450f, wouldnt that kind of be the same as vaping at 9w vape (or lower than 20w is my main point here - I'm just throwing out random numbers as an example) it just kind of sounds like lowering your wattage would "basically" accomplish the same result? Realize I am asking a question, not being a smart .... I am really just trying to figure out why I want a dna40 and when I do get one, will I even use the temp control feature? The other additions to the dna40 are enough to make me want it, I am just stuck on the temp thing (probably because I dont feel its beneficial to me? I dunno yet)..... I know I cant use nichrome wire, it irritates my throat something horrible...so I'm not sure what nickel 200 would do...? I'm guessing similar, and even Pbusardo mentions in a recent video he can taste the "metally" taste of the nickel wire using the dna40....

Again, not knocking the feature or evolv... I love my dna's plain and simple... and for cloud blowing I use my drippers and mechs, so my vw devices are just for my tanks....

Others have explained it better, but I'll make an attempt. As long as the coil gets enough liquid its temperature won't climb much over what is required to vaporize the liquid. Thus, if you have good wicking and air flow you should have no problems reaching 40w with the temperature set to 410 or so. What the temperature control does is to protect you from burnt taste and nasties produced when the liquid overheats. For example, let's say that cotton chars at 430 degrees and you've set the temperature control to 410. You use a dripper and you're running dry. The coil isn't cooled by the liquid anymore and it's temperature rises, at which point the DNA 40 will reduce the watts in order to stay under the 410 degree limit you've set (meaning that your cotton won't burn).

 

[Jerms]

What video does Busardo talk about getting a bad taste from ni200 wire? I've used nichrome and didn't like the flavor it offered compared to Kanthal, so I hope it's not the same with ni200.

 

[dr g]

now, if I have a dna40 and use 20w but use temp limit of 450f, wouldnt that kind of be the same as vaping at 9w vape (or lower than 20w is my main point here - I'm just throwing out random numbers as an example) it just kind of sounds like lowering your wattage would "basically" accomplish the same result? Realize I am asking a question, not being a smart .... I am really just trying to figure out why I want a dna40 and when I do get one, will I even use the temp control feature? The other additions to the dna40 are enough to make me want it, I am just stuck on the temp thing (probably because I dont feel its beneficial to me? I dunno yet)..... I know I cant use nichrome wire, it irritates my throat something horrible...so I'm not sure what nickel 200 would do...? I'm guessing similar, and even Pbusardo mentions in a recent video he can taste the "metally" taste of the nickel wire using the dna40....

It's really completely different. You can't put any particular wattage number out as equivalent because of the variables at any given time; 9w means something different depending on build, usage, etc. and there is no feedback as to what is happening with that 9w. It could make only mild heat on a big coil dripper, while on a carto it could burn the diaper quickly. The DNA40 doesn't just use a specific wattage, it uses *exactly the wattage needed at all times* to keep the temperature from going above your setting, no matter what you are doing and what the atty is like.

 

[350ZMO]

It's really completely different. You can't put any particular wattage number out as equivalent because of the variables at any given time; 9w means something different depending on build, usage, etc. and there is no feedback as to what is happening with that 9w. It could make only mild heat on a big coil dripper, while on a carto it could burn the diaper quickly. The DNA40 doesn't just use a specific wattage, it uses *exactly the wattage needed at all times* to keep the temperature from going above your setting, no matter what you are doing and what the atty is like.

And if that isn't cool enough, what I think is really cool is the preheat function where it actually hits at greater than the target wattage at first to ramp to temp quicker.

pun intended

 

[350ZMO]

That's a pretty good answer.

People may miss the fact dna40 can step down to 1v output.

Very much so, it is very important which is precisely why previous to the 40, I built mods on the SX350 because the 30 didn't down convert.

 

[SheerLuckHolmes]

Brandon explained it with temperature controlling taste. And with wattage controlling vapor production.

 

[want to quit]

ok guys I have a few questions if you don't mind. I accidently picked up a dna40 today and have no idea about a few things.

A. will I build my nickel coils exactly like kanthal in regards to glowing them up and crunching them together so they glow from the inside out or am I not "allowed" to do that with nickel wire?

B. since I use mostly kayfuns how does temp work in this regard? Can I still set up my 1.2ohm coil (kayfun) at 14 watts and lets say 420 degrees? Or can I cranck it up to 40watts and 420 degrees and it will be the same vape since it will probably cap off at the 420 degrees?

So many questions still lol. Any help would be appreciated guys.

 

[New2vaps]

What video does Busardo talk about getting a bad taste from ni200 wire? I've used nichrome and didn't like the flavor it offered compared to Kanthal, so I hope it's not the same with ni200.

He is referring to this video below. Start watching at 21:30. He then increases the temperature and finds his sweet spot. The temperature control, the safety of not blowing up your battery, and not burning your cotton is all nice and good. However, how safe is it inhaling ejuice heated on the NI200?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7i_6vSEMpcI&list=UUc345z36sFqyC1BheWmW_Iw

 

[Jerms]

He is referring to this video below. Start watching at 21:30. He then increases the temperature and finds his sweet spot. The temperature control, the safety of not blowing up your battery, and not burning your cotton is all nice and good. However, how safe is it inhaling ejuice heated on the NI200?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7i_6vSEMpcI&list=UUc345z36sFqyC1BheWmW_Iw

Thanks, I appreciate that!

 

[KenD]

ok guys I have a few questions if you don't mind. I accidently picked up a dna40 today and have no idea about a few things.

A. will I build my nickel coils exactly like kanthal in regards to glowing them up and crunching them together so they glow from the inside out or am I not "allowed" to do that with nickel wire?

B. since I use mostly kayfuns how does temp work in this regard? Can I still set up my 1.2ohm coil (kayfun) at 14 watts and lets say 420 degrees? Or can I cranck it up to 40watts and 420 degrees and it will be the same vape since it will probably cap off at the 420 degrees?

So many questions still lol. Any help would be appreciated guys.

From what I've understood, nickel wire won't heat up to glow. Also, you're apparently not supposed to torch it. Not sure how to crunch the coils.

You won't get temperature control with kanthal, only with nickel wire.

Disclaimer: I don't own a DNA40 device (yet), I'm only repeating what I've read in this thread.

 

[Silver5656]

Does anybody know if the DNA40 balance charges?

 

[ukeman]

ok guys I have a few questions if you don't mind. I accidently picked up a dna40 today and have no idea about a few things.

A. will I build my nickel coils exactly like kanthal in regards to glowing them up and crunching them together so they glow from the inside out or am I not "allowed" to do that with nickel wire?

B. since I use mostly kayfuns how does temp work in this regard? Can I still set up my 1.2ohm coil (kayfun) at 14 watts and lets say 420 degrees? Or can I cranck it up to 40watts and 420 degrees and it will be the same vape since it will probably cap off at the 420 degrees?

So many questions still lol. Any help would be appreciated guys.

@watntoquit check this out... its very helpful although its a smaller RDA, it might answer a lot of your ? buddy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_pIe3m5K3FA

 

[DejayRezme]

Been vaping with a nickel coil now for a couple of weeks and no reaction at all to nickel.

Thanks that is some solid info. I'm sure if someone is sensitive to nickel you would notice it. Nothing better than a human test bunny!


I would still love some actual testing of the vapor out of a DNA40 with a nickel coil build at different temperatures and different juices. The only concern would be that some "stronger" substances in eliquid (an there are lots of them in the flavors) could "corrode" the nickel wire.

Coil mass (weight) will be what determines battery life, and not ohms anymore.

Great explanation. Of course the airflow and the surface area will play a role too. The more vapor you produce the more heat you loose. I'm really looking forward to using the full 40Watts to start up quickly and then limit the temperature.

The plan started as a wooden squonker, but it mutated into a 3D printing project, crossbred with this pipe tobacco can semi-mech mod project, and then I realized there was plenty space left in the box for a DNA chip. I'm honestly not sure where it will end up. My 3D printer will be shipped in two days from now.

I'll probably know more after I've spent 20 hours assembling the machine, another 20 hours calibrating it, and likely yet another 50 hours cursing the hundred different ways that prints can fail.

It is a project lol getting it to work finally. Can't wait to finish my 3D printer.

Better yet, does anyone have any resistance per inch type things so someone could put together some form of chart?

The best thing to use is the great steam-engine.org made by the user damfmaskin. I'll plan to use rather thin AWG32 NI200 wire (0.2mm) for a dual micro coil build. You can even link to builds

You will find that NI200 is easier to work with as it is softer and less springy.

Oh many thanks for that info! That is what I was wondering. Hope 32AWG / 0.2mm wire will be usable for dual coil.


EDIT:

.35Ω and .18Ω. Yes, single coil. This is just a starting point.

This just gave me an off topic idea... damfmaskin should add a "share" button to steam-engine.org that gives you a link to a specific build INCLUDING the [.../ link] tags AND a condensed description of the coil in clear text ("X wraps Y AWG on ID micro(?) (dual?) coil with Z ohm"). So you can copy and paste it

The temp part I dont get is this.... if I vape at 20w (lets say), ok its a hot vape, flavorful vape, ok...whatever it is at 20w I like it...ok got it.

The (theoretical) advantages I see so far are:

-More control over temperature and vaporization
-Temperature controls taste
-Never dry hit / never burn wick / coil you long time
-Just set max wattage to get real quick vapor production and only change temp
-Do longer hits without danger of overheating
-Second / third hit will taste the same as the first because of temp control
-More reproducible results between different coils and vapers

I accidently picked up a dna40 today and have no idea about a few things.

Grrrr lol!


PS: Sorry for the wall of text, just got excited about the new chip and had to reply to anything interesting in this already way too long thread lol.

 

[brickfollett]

Since we can't fire coils orange to help shape them, we could set it to 600 and see how malleable nickel is once heated to that range. If it's still a no go to get an ugly coil reshaped, we may want to invest in wire jigs. I use one called a qvapes coiler and have never built cleaner coils. Fully intend on using it with all my future builds. Has a 2.5mm bit being the largest (and my favorite) and gets smaller from there. I may try a dual in series coil with 28 gauge on my kayfun. That should keep the ohms above 0.1 wrapped around a 2mm bit

 

[dr g]

Does anybody know if the DNA40 balance charges?

no, it uses a 1s battery configuration

 

[SeniorBoy]

Doesn't negate it, it limits it. You'll get whatever wattage you've set, as long as the temperature is under the limit you've set. Once the temp hits the limit, the wattage will be dialed down to keep the temp at the set limit.

YES!

For others which is the conversation you and moi recently had. It's a given that we are all concerned about the appearance of any "taste" when we use Nickel 200 (Ni200). Next we desperately need an unbiased scientific study which tells us what (if any) nasty chemicals are emitted and the levels of same into the juice/vapor when we vape using Nickel 200 (Ni200) and Kanthal.

The crowd funding has already started for this study conducted by Dr. Farsalinos (see my sig) /lol and IMHO it's critical that we encourage VENDORS to contribute since they are the target funding source. Nudge, push, convince, etc. Whatever it takes. Of course, this doesn't prohibit any of us "consumers" from contributing.



/end commercial

Thank you

 

[EuroChris]

Since we can't fire coils orange to help shape them, we could set it to 600 and see how malleable nickel is once heated to that range. If it's still a no go to get an ugly coil reshaped, we may want to invest in wire jigs. I use one called a qvapes coiler and have never built cleaner coils. Fully intend on using it with all my future builds. Has a 2.5mm bit being the largest (and my favorite) and gets smaller from there. I may try a dual in series coil with 28 gauge on my kayfun. That should keep the ohms above 0.1 wrapped around a 2mm bit

You can still use wattage mode if the resistance is above 0.16Ohms, I believe.

 

[brickfollett]

You can still use wattage mode if the resistance is above 1.6Ohms, I believe.

With a nickel coil? Good luck getting to 1.6 with nickel!