Official DNA 40 introduction

[suspectK]

Thanks, g... yeah..I didn't watch that video..3.5 hours long..lol. I asked for the cliff notes.

Now, I know I always talked .... about evolv before..I know efficiency and all, but yada-yada-my counter point to that(sucks)-yada-yada

But I absolutely agree.. I'm so glad I haven't jumped into modding yet. I almost bought several sx chips before news of this chip came about, but I just had a "meh"outlook towards going ahead with that order.

40 Watts is perfect for me...just can't use my >1/8" airholes on one of my origens...oh, the humanity.lol..edit-= I can't use that origen..hack job on drilling afc and cap at same time.

I can't wait for the bs from the past two months to clear out.. I will be getting several of these boards.. I've been telling family members and friends that don't vape..very excite.

 

[350ZMO]

I think it's gonna be interesting to see a whole generation of dna40 builds: massive coils with a ton of wrap.

Imagine a parallel build or a dual coil with 28ga nickel. Grin.


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

Did that today, horizontal build on BIG Fogger dual 8 turn 28 gauge 3x.5mm coils at .07ohm takes 26W constant at 410F no sag. Tried a vertical on my other big but there is a problem in the post or center screw somewhere.

 

[SeniorBoy]

LOL....Dr. G and our Suspect ditto, on the video from the dark side. I remember your post Suspect. HA! Then they send in the "spin meister" to quiet me down. HA! Not gonna happen unless you have facts! Look boys and girls, WE all make mistakes and I might be at the top of the list but acknowledge and move on. Period!

 

[350ZMO]

Found the problem. Loose center post screw. So vertical build big fogger dual 8 turns 28 gauge ,08ohms (legs are a tad longer on a vertical build) at 410F sustains about 30W. I can probably get more if I drill out the air holes a tad.

Interesting note when I first built it, it read .17ohms. I knew that couldn't be right but what was interesting is it flipped out of TC. Instead of showing temperature it was showing volts and the base got warm. Tightened the center post and voila all is well. I find that interesting because the wire is nickel and .17 is a valid value for a nickel build. Probably because of the loose center post screw the resistance was changing widely and it bumped out of TC.

Oh and I forgot to mention, the amount of vapor at a consistent 30W is way too much for me and my liquid. Two puffs and I'm railed. But hey less health risk than the skoal, redman and boros I was doin.

 

[Silver5656]

So I finally got my ni200 wire in today so I could finally put my flask 40 through the ringer. And I am struggling. I set the temp to 400. And it seems that no matter what wattage I choose, the flavor seems so muted. And it doesnt seem like a big difference between 10w-->40w. Time to read all 79 pages, but any advice?

 

[drmarble]

So I finally got my ni200 wire in today so I could finally put my flask 40 through the ringer. And I am struggling. I set the temp to 400. And it seems that no matter what wattage I choose, the flavor seems so muted. And it doesnt seem like a big difference between 10w-->40w. Time to read all 79 pages, but any advice?

Set the temperature higher. The wattage has no effect because you are being temperature limited. Also, you might not have good wicking. If the coil is dryish it will get hot without any vapor. You could also try all the usual raise/lower the coil things that folks have been doing with kanthal for ages.
Enjoy your flask 40. I'm jealous.

 

[sedge]

Silver...what attie? Pics would help.

 

[ukeman]

So I finally got my ni200 wire in today so I could finally put my flask 40 through the ringer. And I am struggling. I set the temp to 400. And it seems that no matter what wattage I choose, the flavor seems so muted. And it doesnt seem like a big difference between 10w-->40w. Time to read all 79 pages, but any advice?

If the temp is not high enough it doesn't much matter what wattage you set.... temp is the thing.
I have my single coil 13 wrap 2mm ID micro coil 30g wire, = .15 ohms set at 510 and 30w for a full yet safe vape on Japanese cotton.
The vape will become weak when there's no juice in wick. (it feels like the batt is weak but it is reducing power to the atty somehow)
I have had this setup for 3rd day now and never a burnt vape or coil.

it s awesome; auto safety for the coil/wick

 

[Silver5656]

Dont have any pics yet, been one of those busy days/nights. It's on a kfl+v2 clone. My erlp's are ordered though! I used Ni200 30g, i think9 wraps? it came out to .20 on my ohm reader, and .18 on the flask. I tend to use less cotton. And there doesn't seem to be any problems with the juice wicking, it just seems much more muted flavor wise (and slightly less cloud production). I also filled a naut mini with the same juice and I get more flavor from the mini than the kfl (which never happens to me, I usually only use the naut mini as it's more convenient to swap and go). Using KGD. I would up the temps, but doesnt that defeat the point?

 

[Silver5656]

maybe I misunderstood, but I thought the point of the temp control was safety? And that going over 400 is not safe? Sorry, still reading this thread, but working as well. And trying to juggle watching netflix and other stuff. Too many things at once lol

 

[350ZMO]

maybe I misunderstood, but I thought the point of the temp control was safety? And that going over 400 is not safe? Sorry, still reading this thread, but working as well. And trying to juggle watching netflix and other stuff. Too many things at once lol

You didn't it is. That remains to be seen, lots of folks like the taste of a higher temp vape on cotton, try up to 450 and see what happens. In my experience its lack of juice flow that gives a weak vape. Drop a couple drops down the driptip hole and see what happens.

 

[ukeman]

maybe I misunderstood, but I thought the point of the temp control was safety? And that going over 400 is not safe? Sorry, still reading this thread, but working as well. And trying to juggle watching netflix and other stuff. Too many things at once lol

i think a point made was that over 400 is not unsafe if the juice is there; it seems to me the cotton is fine after vaping at 510 now and 500 all day. No burnt taste at all.
Like I said, when it loses juice the TC lowers the power... that's how I'm sensing it anyway.
I'll ahve to take a closer look at the wick next time I get around to it, but this is the kind of performance I'm looking for.
(I also use low nic juice so I can vape more

 

[Silver5656]

Ok. The juice thing makes sense. I did bump it up to 450 and its better, but not the same. It's at about 60% flavor compared to my kfl, 80% flavor of my mini naut.

 

[Silver5656]

I get a strong crackle on the initial button push at 450, so I put it down to 430 and the flavor is the same, with no crackle. I'm amazed that such a small difference makes such a big difference. At 400, there is very little flavor. Same with 410. At 420 I get about 40% flavor. At 430 I get about 60%.

 

[ukeman]

Ok. The juice thing makes sense. I did bump it up to 450 and its better, but not the same. It's at about 60% flavor compared to my kfl, 80% flavor of my mini naut.

please describe your kanthal build on the KFL... resistance, wire gauge, coil ID, number of wraps... and the power setting (watts and volts if possible).

I'm using 2 of the same atomizers (on my dna 40 and my dna 30 and/or other box mod)

I'm getting a slightly warmer stronger vape on the non dna40 but its not as clean and to me the flavor is more prominent on the 40 because of it. (in my mind? lol) laughing at self thinking how some will say something is better to justify a purchase ... lol.

but i'm serious... i think the dna 40 produces a better flavor

 

[Silver5656]

I have currently 3 setups with the same juice. All 3 on kfl+v2. Setup A has a .9 ohm build, 4.1v, 19w, 26gK, 2.4m ID, 8 wraps on my dna30. Setup B has a .8 ohm build, 4.2v, 22w, 26gK, 2.4m ID, 8 wraps as well, on my mech although its probably closer to 4.1v/20ish w. And then the Ni200 build on my dna 40.

 

[ukeman]

I have currently 3 setups with the same juice. All 3 on kfl+v2. Setup A has a .9 ohm build, 4.1v, 19w, 26gK, 2.4m ID, 8 wraps on my dna30. Setup B has a .8 ohm build, 4.2v, 22w, 26gK, 2.4m ID, 8 wraps as well, on my mech although its probably closer to 4.1v/20ish w. And then the Ni200 build on my dna 40.

well imo you need to up the temp to get it closer to the other devices (with all that thick wire)... I get it though, imo there's distinct choices to be made between thin wire TC vaping, and thick wire, high wattage... not sure what the differences in amps is but imo the difference is in the heat generated and with thick wire the cool down period is slower, and eventually the wick gets burnt too.
The dna gets you as close as you find your sweet spot to be, but with TC and faster cool down of thin wires.

 

[Silver5656]

I dont quite understand what you are saying. I should up the temp on my kanthal builds? I thought the temp only works on ni200? Or up the temp on my ni200 builds so I get a similar vape as my kanthal builds?

 

[ukeman]

no just the opposite... imo the difference is heat... the kanthal you are using is thick wire and at sub ohms resistance, the heat is there.
Of course you are going to have a warmer vape.
But the Ni200 is thin wire which also cools down faster too. So up the temp of the dna 40.
That's what i've been saying pretty much all along; especially after learning what you are using with the kanthal setup.

I dont quite understand what you are saying. I should up the temp on my kanthal builds? I thought the temp only works on ni200? Or up the temp on my ni200 builds so I get a similar vape as my kanthal builds?

 

[suspectK]

For those of you that haven't seen this...
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/showthread.php?p=14413430