I read the whole thing I don't get what u mean is wrong... The coil part or setting watts to max part
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I read the whole thing I don't get what u mean is wrong... The coil part or setting watts to max part
Thank you "Cult Leader" aka Smokey aka Oliver
/ kinda joking with you
An outstanding read and I strongly and respectfully suggest everyone on planet earth read and absorb.
BTW, here is the direct link to the Goniewicz research paper which Brandon referred to in one of his Beta team posts:
http://www.weprovideit.com/vaping/Goniewicz-tobaccocontrol-2013.pdf
And here is Dr. Michael Siegel's article on this study at: http://tobaccoanalysis.blogspot.com/2013/03/new-study-of-electronic-cigarette-vapor.html
HTH
/ kinda joking with youAn outstanding read and I strongly and respectfully suggest everyone on planet earth read and absorb.
BTW, here is the direct link to the Goniewicz research paper which Brandon referred to in one of his Beta team posts:
http://www.weprovideit.com/vaping/Goniewicz-tobaccocontrol-2013.pdf
And here is Dr. Michael Siegel's article on this study at: http://tobaccoanalysis.blogspot.com/2013/03/new-study-of-electronic-cigarette-vapor.html
HTH
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Thank you "Cult Leader" aka Smokey aka Oliver
An outstanding read and I strongly and respectfully suggest everyone on planet earth read and absorb.
I'd bet there will be as many interpretations of what was said as there are people on earth
.Thanks for the research paper and article, good reads too.
Too bad they didn't test my e-cigarette and juice LOL.
Finally got 30 and 32 gauge. Put a dual coil build in PV. 30 gauge, 11 wraps each, 3mm ID, right at 0.11ohms. Wonked coils a bit getting KGD through but was able to get them back to pretty close with some patience. Set to 440, 40 watts. Only hit temp when going dry, otherwise stays 35-40 through entire draw. Nice, dense vape and amazing flavor at this temp compared to same juice on a dual 24 gauge 0.2ohm Kanthal build on mech. Amazing battery life too, been basically chain vaping for 2+ hours and indicator has only moved down one small click.
If not already obvious, I'm sold on this technology and love it. Now to wait for study and what temps are safest.......
If not already obvious, I'm sold on this technology and love it. Now to wait for study and what temps are safest.......
Just pulled the trigger on a VaporShark rDNA 40. They expect to get an order of devices October 28 and then they ship in the order received, but since I have no idea how many orders are in front of me relative to the size of their shipment, not sure what that means. But I'm hopeful.
I've seen a lot of comments about XPV's that people have already received, but I'm not sure I've seen any about VaporSharks (maybe I just missed them, however). Anybody have a VaporShark yet they'd like to say a little about?
Now the fun begins. (Well actually now the wait begins. Then the fun.)
They expect to get an order of devices October 28 and then they ship in the order received, but since I have no idea how many orders are in front of me relative to the size of their shipment, not sure what that means. But I'm hopeful.I've seen a lot of comments about XPV's that people have already received, but I'm not sure I've seen any about VaporSharks (maybe I just missed them, however). Anybody have a VaporShark yet they'd like to say a little about?
Now the fun begins.
(Well actually now the wait begins. Then the fun.)
MordorMongo,
Couple of questions:
What type of atty?
Did you build spaced or touching coil and about what was the length of the coil?
You came up with 0.11 ohms when I get my vape mail (Ugh - I hate waiting) I would like to shoot for 0.4 ohms which according to Evolv is the middle resistance range of the temperature sensing wire.
Thanks for this interview, very interesting read! I noticed two small error, one paragraph starting with "No - that's not it" is missing Johns name at the start I think. And there is a "there there" there in the text somewhere. The mysterious Daniel has already been fixed it seems.
I thought this quote was especially priceless: "So, I guess I dont see mechs as being a thing ten years from now, even if all the regulators just caught Ebola and went away!"
Making two enemies with one sentence, I doff my hat to you John!
Just pulled the trigger on a VaporShark rDNA 40.
I've seen a lot of comments about XPV's that people have already received, but I'm not sure I've seen any about VaporSharks (maybe I just missed them, however). Anybody have a VaporShark yet they'd like to say a little about?
Now the fun begins.
I have one reserved at a local VS shop. They haven't shipped yet.
Well, I think mechs will still be around. For one thing, they'll always be more durable. Another thing with mechs, that you just can't get with the DNA40, is the crazy coil builds that some seem to be so enthused over. That's probably as much of a factor in the current popularity of mechs as the massive clouds thing. Not putting down regulated or mechanical mods, just saying that they in many ways satisfy different markets (though I myself love both mechs and the high Watt regulated mods- which I just got - and I don't cloud chase ).
).
Atty is PlumeVeil 1.2.
These coils are appr 6.5mm.....I basically tried my best being patient and wrapping very close and even, but not touching. Before I put second coil in it was .22 (30 gauge). If you are shooting for 0.4 I suspect you may have to go down to 32 gauge? I tried originally to do a dual with 28 gauge and was able to get a 0.1 but it was not easy to fit. Have a ton of atty's but have mainly been using PlumeVeil just because it is so easy to build on IMO. Plan to shoot for a slightly higher build when I get around to it on the Vulcan because that's probably my favorite flavor atty ATM. Have also tried to build on Veritas and haven't had success yet.....not the easiest thing to build on with Kanthal, let alone nickel wire....
Apparently contact coils are fine (even though I'm still curious why)
Yeah I saw that. I will say I used contact coils in kfl and it worked fine. Had no issues and after 3 days thing still looks almost like new. Now that Brandon has squashed that I will go back to contact coils as they are much easier for me.
Not sure it will solve my Veritas problem though, hahaha, love that atty but HATE building on it.
Thanks for the info Mordor,
I am wondering how Evolv expects a guy to build a 0.4 ohm coil that would fit a normal atty. But if I can build one like your 0.11 set in my Fogger V5 I think I could live with that.
I am trying to figure a way to put two 0.2 coils in series. I am not sure that is even doable in a normal atty. The only way I can thing of getting even close to the center of the operating resistance is to do it like the Kanger coils and that is wind 32 gauge right on the wick material. That's not too bad in itself but you end up with a coil wick assembly that has to be trashed when it gets gunked up. I have tried pulling cotton out of 32 Ga coils before and you end up with something that looks like a Brillo-Pad.
Oh-well I am getting ahead of myself my DNA-40 isn't due until Monday. God it is going to be a long weekend.
that's interesting; i have a single coil 2mm ID, 30g, .18 ohms (10 or 12 wraps) and tried your settings: 440 and 40w.
When semi cool, the coil only goes up to 33w to heat up and then when warm/hot, doesn't go more than 10w (5 to 10w fluctutions) and vapor is not dense enough...
that's why i go up to 500. the watts fluctuate between 20 and 30w and vapor is more dense. it seems I have to be careful not to outrun the wicking while vaping or it will cause some minor burning though.
Dejay,
You and me both. Just to muddy the water how do you know for sure they are all touching
With Kanthal heated and squashed I am never sure they are all touching and besides with Kanthal the oxidation keeps them from shorting one turn to the next I don't think that would be true with nickel... that stuff doesn't oxidize at least not very easily.How can I be having problems with my DNA-40 and I haven't even got in my grimy little hand yet.
It might be best to increase your wicking though.
I'm going to try a vertical coil next on my magma. Might be a far easier way to increase the thickness and length of the coil and have better wicking (at least a bigger reservoir).
It's all in your head?
What I was wondering about the contact coils is that if they do touch and make contact, you have "micro hotspots" that would go away as soon as the temperature rises. These "shorts" that initially reduce the resistance would get hot way faster than the rest of the coil, increase in resistance and then the current would flow the normal way of the coil. That would kind of lead to a "hump" in resistance. Or maybe with the thermal expansion the contacts actually become better during the heat up? But it might just be that the boffins at evolv are smart enough to just have a clever algorithm to detect this and filter it out, so that it actually doesn't affect the temp control at all.But if it works, it works
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Maybe that extra 1mm of ID wicks more liquid keeping coil "cooler"?
Made me curious so I had my wife watch screen (I can't see it real well on bap while hitting it).....throughout my draw on three straight pulls it only strayed down to 38 watts once...other two stayed at 40. She even said it was the temp fluctuating more, basically like between 433 and 440.
I also wonder how hotspots may effect it....without really KNOWING, you know?
Maybe if it is relevant I am vaping high VG (epiclouds Mom's Pineapple Cake)?
It also dawned on me that PlumeVeil has a TON of air, everything except top air holes wide open, and I also use a Ninja Mods passive air injection drip tip. Obviously that is going to have a pretty substantial effect I would think.
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