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WTQ,
What wasn't working for you on the Veritas?
I still think you can dry burn Nickel, rinse it and go IMHO. Or use the Rip Tripper method of heating the coil until it glows and put it under running cold tap water. After all doesn't Kanthal have nickel as one of the components?
I'd like to know everyone's thought on that as well. Is it ok to dry burn the nickel to clean it? If I've got to build a new coil every time it gets gunky I may just forget about nickel.
My thoughts on NOT dry burning Ni200 coils...
Yes, thick wire K lasts a hell of a long time and of course can be dry burned over and over and easily rewicked.
(thin K wire too but not as long lasting as thicker).
Is it worth rebuilding every couple days or even every day if you are using one DNA 40 device all day and gunky juice?
I'd say yes...
The benefits of the 40 are pretty great imo... the flavor of Temp protection is slightly superior to a not TP device not to mention it might be saving you from toxins of burning juice which invariably happens with non TP.
I don't find it difficult at all to build new Ni200 coils.
At this point I have a couple of DNA40's and a bunch of high watt mods so I'm going to be (like most imo) using both types.
Yes, thick wire K lasts a hell of a long time and of course can be dry burned over and over and easily rewicked.
(thin K wire too but not as long lasting as thicker).
Is it worth rebuilding every couple days or even every day if you are using one DNA 40 device all day and gunky juice?
I'd say yes...
The benefits of the 40 are pretty great imo... the flavor of Temp protection is slightly superior to a not TP device not to mention it might be saving you from toxins of burning juice which invariably happens with non TP.
I don't find it difficult at all to build new Ni200 coils.
At this point I have a couple of DNA40's and a bunch of high watt mods so I'm going to be (like most imo) using both types.
I've had issues getting a build done on the veritas also. It's not so much building the coil as it is getting it set on it. Each time I've tried I've completely mis-shaped the coil trying to get it set. Veritas is just a pain and having to move around/manipulate the coil or coils with nickel is way more ponderous than with kanthal....thing is hard enough to build on with kanthal IMO.
I'm sure this has probably been asked before but where are you guys getting your Ni200 at? And what gauge would give the most flexability in builds? I'm thinking 30g.
I found some Ni200 at Lightening Vapes but they state that it is only to be used as legs for Kanthal Coils and not as the actual coil itself. I presume that statement was before the DNA40 TC boards came out but just wanted to make sure.
I found some Ni200 at Lightening Vapes but they state that it is only to be used as legs for Kanthal Coils and not as the actual coil itself. I presume that statement was before the DNA40 TC boards came out but just wanted to make sure.
So....I have an observation. I built my R91 yesterday with Bio wick (Organic cotton) and 28 gauge Ni200. Vaping AHL Lemon Vanilla Cake which is yummy. Everything is dialed in and it's a great vape. Just like Kanthal. Filled the R91 from the bottom with about 4 + ML with my trusty sarenge thing yesterday. I've spent plenty of time looking at the screen to fine tune. Set to 430F and 13.7 watts.
Today I was down to only about 2 ML so all I did was refill from the bottom all the way up to about 4 ML. Didn't change any of the setting or remove the top. Then new or old topper and I said old. What is new is that the Temperature takes significantly longer to reach my limit of 430F. Way longer than any draw I could ever take. It was fine before and never hit the Temp Limit reached screen.
Why? Anyone else observed this? Did my Ni200 morph? Did my coil turn into a monster all buy itself? /lol I'm not complaining but am curious.
Today I was down to only about 2 ML so all I did was refill from the bottom all the way up to about 4 ML. Didn't change any of the setting or remove the top. Then new or old topper and I said old. What is new is that the Temperature takes significantly longer to reach my limit of 430F. Way longer than any draw I could ever take. It was fine before and never hit the Temp Limit reached screen.
Why? Anyone else observed this? Did my Ni200 morph? Did my coil turn into a monster all buy itself? /lol I'm not complaining but am curious.
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Your fine. The owner actually forwarded me the same question from another customer. Like I'm the GOD of Ni200. /lol
I think the owner was being proactive to make sure I understood the conflicting words on the site. So I answered and then he fired back to confirm his product was in fact Ni200. Good guy and my goto source.
I ordered Ni200 30g from Lightning Vapes on eBay. $5.80 shipped for 100' and got it in a few days. The label on the spool says "Pure Nickel"
Interesting timing -- this post popped up immediately after placing my order with Lightning Vapes. As an aside, I asked this:
Kevin said:
And got back this answer:
Lightning Vapes said:
Jax? Couldn't turn up a link on Google -- got a link? Thx.
I've also had weird results when I select the "new coil" option as well. My kayfun right now is set to 420 and hits 420@ 14 watts in a matter of seconds. However, if I take off and put it right back on, selecting "new coil" the ohms raise slightly and my temp will hover around the 300 range for about the first 10 minute of use. I'm confused !
Oopps...Yep! I actually DID select NEW coil as in up aka + Tried same coil aka down aka - and it went back to behaving the way it did yesterday. Just tested this twice. Must be resetting the board. That's all my limited electronic knowledge can come up with. Also, it's not the temperature of the juice refill because my Mod had been sitting with no use for at least 5 hours and the new juice refill came from the same batch stored at room temp in my stash drawer.
I observed something similar. Since you selected "old coil" it should have been fine, but I suspect the temperature protection isn't working correctly anymore and that is why your power wasn't reduced.
When at room temperature my build is actually 0.10 ohm, but over time somehow "creeps up" to 0.11 ohm during use. I don't know how or why or when this happens exactly. In that state the temperature protection will NOT kick in when I fire it with 35 watts and the vape will get way too hot for my taste. I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Maybe changing batteries is a problem even though it shouldn't? Maybe it has something to do with the screen garble problem and the chip "crashes" or something? But it seems the chip assumes the incorrect base resistance for the build and the thus the resistance curve is too shallow.
What sometimes works screwing off the and pressing fire so "check atty" comes up, letting the atty cool off for quite some time then reconnecting it and selecting "new coil". The chip detects 0.10 ohm correctly and temp protection works again. You can suck air through the atty to let it off cool more quickly.
My "hotfix" is to simply set the watts low enough so that I can vape fine without temp protection.
EDIT: Well I just tightened the post screws some more and now I did get 0.10 ohm base resistance again, but temp protection still didn't kick in. But this issue might be just related to unreliable post connection. I'm still curious on why the shown base / reference resistance "creeps upward".
EDIT2: Ok to make things more confusing:
1. Changed the temp to 400°F. Ohms are still at 0.10 ohm
2. I took the cap off and fired at 35W / 400°F while blowing over the coils. As soon as the temperature control kicked in the watts and vapor dropped to almost 0 even while blowing over the coils. It appears the temp protection either overcompensates or has a lag and that would explain why vaping at the temperature protection limit produces weak vapor like 350ZMO said it does.
3. I then set the temp back to 420°F and now the power DOES get limited during a draw to about 30 watts. Maybe my juice or wicking is better now so I can vape safely at higher power?
4. Now I'm dizzy from too much nicotine lol! I'll just set it back to 20 watts and vape happy.
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Something just doesn't seem right. I hate having to unscrew my atty every 10 minutes for it to work properly. I'm far from an expert on this stuff but showing almost 400 degrees dang near instantly on a saturated coil doesn't seem accurate.
Oops, my bad -- in re-reading the thread, I just realized Sedge was referring to you as Jax -- I thought he was saying he got his Ni200 at a company named Jax. What he actually said is "Jax. That's where I got mine," referring to Lightning Vapes, not a place called Jax. I think the period after your nick threw me off. (Gotta find some reason, right? lol)
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DejayRezme,
You do realize the 0.1 ohms is the absolute bottom end of the range for Ni200 coils on the DNA-40.
You might want to try a coil that is more toward the middle of the allowable resistance range which would be 0.4 ohms. But in any case I'll bet a lot of your problems disappear if you at least increase the coil resistance to 0.2 ohms. Sitting on the very bottom edge of the systems tolerance seem like a good way to have all kinds of strange problems.
Like when I try to use a 1.6 ohm Kanthal coil on a mod that has a lower limit of 1.6 ohms sometimes it fires sometimes it doesn't.
PS - this is the range from the Evolv manual:
Atomizer Resistance, temperature sensing wire, cold
min: .10 Ohm
middle .4 Ohm
max: 1.0 Ohm
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