Official DNA 40 introduction

[DejayRezme]

I produce enough vapor with a single coil and dual coil is just excessive my friend. Lol, just kidding I base my amazing comments on a few and simple experiments with my reo and a lil cyclone in dual coil set up meaning I am not experienced enough to even make any statements in regards to dual coils.

Your comment however has me interested to at least give it a go. Did you see Werder today? I am so upset I could punch a wall.

Sorry the only way I relate to soccer and punching is the e-liquid from suicide bunny

About your veritas problem, maybe a coil jig like this one could help. I don't own a veritas but what's practical about this jig is that you can simply release the mandril and hold it a bit easier inside the atty. Probably won't solve all of your problems but might help a bit. These type of coil jigs are also sold cheap at other vape shops.

PS: I'd love to try the veritas but I haven't found a good clone yet. I've ordered the cigreen Holmes rda today. It looks like an upgrade to the excellent but leaky Magma RDA.

 

[HolmanGT]

No, you have me at a disadvantage. I don't have a DNA40 device yet, and don't expect to have one for a couple of months at least. I plan to build my own mod, and I think I'll need to do some tests runs with cheap DNA clones or a DNA30 board first

What I know is only what I've read here and elsewhere, and this thread has been very interesting and informative. I'm looking forward to hearing about your experiences when you get your Vaporflask.

Ken,

If you going to build your own (I think it is pretty straight forward and the pin out is in the PDF file from Evolv) the DNA 40 is twenty dollars US more than the DNA 30. I think Evolv want $69 dollars for the board with display and a couple of dollars for the USB port.

There are also a couple of outfits selling boxes already punch and read to have the DNA 40 installed. I don't remember the price but I do remember thinking it was pretty darn reasonable especially considering you don't have to worry about exact measurements and oopses.

Anyway when I get mine Monday I'll show you mine if you'll show me yours so to speak.

 

[DejayRezme]

I think the price is actually $60, $10 more than the DNA30. I got a $20 hana clone case from fasttech, a varitube connector and a M10x0.5 tap, the DNA40 for 60€ from bargainvapour.com in ireland. It worked out pretty smoothly even though you really should get a really thin soldering pen. Here is a thread about the FT case.

 

[Pete54]

I'm curious. What mod are those of you who are experiencing performance issues with the DNA40 using? I ask because I had a Hana whose 510 connector wouldn't work with any atty I used. Since it's not adjustable or spring loaded it makes poor contact with the atty at best. With repeated use it gets pushed down and the connection gets worse. I've sent mine back for a refund! Just wondering because this system needs a good solid connection.

 

[want to quit]

I think for all of us it's just user error and experimenting rather than fault of the chip.

I use the flask and it makes connection with everything.

 

[want to quit]

Thanks buddy got one of those but that didn't help either. It's alright though. I am a Zombie world vapor. What that means is I always like to have a mech for the "end of world" scenario. Mech with kanthal veritas is fantastic I just hate if I work for 3hrs and end up with the same results as before lool.

Sorry the only way I relate to soccer and punching is the e-liquid from suicide bunny

About your veritas problem, maybe a coil jig like this one could help. I don't own a veritas but what's practical about this jig is that you can simply release the mandril and hold it a bit easier inside the atty. Probably won't solve all of your problems but might help a bit. These type of coil jigs are also sold cheap at other vape shops.

PS: I'd love to try the veritas but I haven't found a good clone yet. I've ordered the cigreen Holmes RDA today. It looks like an upgrade to the excellent but leaky Magma RDA.

 

[HolmanGT]

Thanks buddy got one of those but that didn't help either. It's alright though. I am a Zombie world vapor. What that means is I always like to have a mech for the "end of world" scenario. Mech with kanthal veritas is fantastic I just hate if I work for 3hrs and end up with the same results as before lool.

WTQ,

I am a Zombie expert via TV sooo if you are planning for the Zombie apocalypse you going to need a Mech that uses a charcoal heater - no electricity in Zombie land even if Germany has more Wind Turbines than we do.

 

[Heespharm]

WTQ,

I am a Zombie expert via TV sooo if you are planning for the Zombie apocalypse you going to need a Mech that uses a charcoal heater - no electricity in Zombie land even if Germany has more Wind Turbines than we do.

Sure there are I have a foldable solar array that'll charge a bunch of 18650s


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[want to quit]

haha! I am a pretty common sense kinda guy (yah right). If I have 50 fully charged bats the chances are I die from a zombie bite before my batteries die.

Could we not come up with something to charge our batteries by hand? If charcoal heater is the only way to go I would kindly like to ask for your blue print so I can build one!

WTQ,

I am a Zombie expert via TV sooo if you are planning for the Zombie apocalypse you going to need a Mech that uses a charcoal heater - no electricity in Zombie land even if Germany has more Wind Turbines than we do.

 

[HolmanGT]

Sure there are I have a foldable solar array that'll charge a bunch of 18650s


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Boy do I feel stupid. I never even gave solar a thought. OK tomorrow I will add a couple of solar panels to my Zombie survival kit.

 

[snork]

Ken,

You have me at a distinct disadvantage I will not have my Vapo Flask DNA-40 and Ni200 wire until Monday (God willing or is that the USPS...).

Yes I know what your saying but in reading the mail here in this thread I ordered 32, 30 and 28 Ga. Ni200. From what I have read so far in this thread the folks using 28 gauge wire have some resistances that are far below the lower limit for Ni200.

My thoughts on this have been continually shifting as folks start posting more hands on technical issues.

My current thoughts and I am absolutely sure you won't like it is this; build wick coil assemblies' where you take the wick you want to use and wind it with 32 (maybe 30) install them even for parallel setups (which most of mine are) and when they are really gunked up pull them pitch-em and install new.

Now I know that is going to rub a lot of folks wrong but until this smart guy "Brandon from Evolv" gets on this thread and starts making suggestions and giving pointers I am going to take the DNA-40 PDF file from Evolv as the Gospel.

I am just trying to figure reasonable solutions so please don't get mad at me (the messenger). I will also tell you that reading about some of the difficulties my build and pitch coils better work for me when I get my unit this Monday or Mr. Brandon is going to start getting some very unfriendly emails from yours truly.

Please consider that perhaps the ways on which we have personally settled may be nowhere near the best ways to use the DNA 40. I think there will even be atomizers specifically designed for it, the philosophy behind it doesn't really jive with the existing paradigm.
One thing it's taught me is how unnecessarily blisteringly hot my coils have been. That's a good thing to know for many reasons.

 

[Heespharm]

haha! I am a pretty common sense kinda guy (yah right). If I have 50 fully charged bats the chances are I die from a zombie bite before my batteries die.

Could we not come up with something to charge our batteries by hand? If charcoal heater is the only way to go I would kindly like to ask for your blue print so I can build one!

Eton power bank... I have one but it takes forever to charge it by hand!




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[HolmanGT]

Please consider that perhaps the ways on which we have personally settled may be nowhere near the best ways to use the DNA 40. I think there will even be atomizers specifically designed for it, the philosophy behind it doesn't really jive with the existing paradigm.
One thing it's taught me is how unnecessarily blisteringly hot my coils have been. That's a good thing to know for many reasons.

snork,

I am not exactly following the point you are making. However, all I was really trying to say is that Evolv has some responsibility to educate us mere mortals. Lots of vendors frequent ECF and give support and guidance for everything from juice to mods and attys.

I personally think Evolv is missing the boat by not participating in these threads under whatever guidelines ECF has mandated for vendors to adhere to.

 

[want to quit]

Man, I have to move close to you. That is amazing! Trust me, when we can't go anywhere and your battery is empty you will not care to have a beer with me and charge your batteries by hand for an hour just to vape a bit haha. Genius sir genius! You are now officially the zombie vape master. I like the solar idea too. They laugh at us now but once .... goes down we will be prepared lol

Eton power bank... I have one but it takes forever to charge it by hand!

View attachment 384063


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[Marc411]

I've had issues getting a build done on the veritas also. It's not so much building the coil as it is getting it set on it. Each time I've tried I've completely mis-shaped the coil trying to get it set. Veritas is just a pain and having to move around/manipulate the coil or coils with nickel is way more ponderous than with kanthal....thing is hard enough to build on with kanthal IMO.

Mongo, I only run a 1 ohm horizontal on a 3/32 bit in my Veritas made one of these to get it in place. It works great! I can knock out a coil in a couple minutes including placement.

 

[Heespharm]

Man, I have to move close to you. That is amazing! Trust me, when we can't go anywhere and your battery is empty you will not care to have a beer with me and charge your batteries by hand for an hour just to vape a bit haha. Genius sir genius! You are now officially the zombie vape master. I like the solar idea too. They laugh at us now but once .... goes down we will be prepared lol

Lolz ! VAPE OR DIE!


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[want to quit]

That's kanthal not nickel right? Kanthal is easy, nickel is the enemy here.

That's my fav set up for the veritas as well. Never actually build it dual coil.

Mongo, I only run a 1 ohm horizontal on a 3/32 bit in my Veritas made one of these to get it in place. It works great! I can knock out a coil in a couple minutes including placement.

 

[gray]

Mongo, I only run a 1 ohm horizontal on a 3/32 bit in my Veritas made one of these to get it in place. It works great! I can knock out a coil in a couple minutes including placement.

This is very much how I'm doing it. So simple and I think it works well enough that I could care less about a second coil.

 

[MordorMongo]

This is very much how I'm doing it. So simple and I think it works well enough that I could care less about a second coil.

Yes but with Kanthal or nickel?? I can get that with ease with Kanthal but nickel just isn't as simple.


I've tried both horizontal and vertical and I've yet to have one get set, stay set and properly fire with nickel.

 

[Marc411]

28 ga Ni200 on a Flask tonight at .15 ohms. The tool lets you move the coil without it breaking down.

That picture is an old shot of Kanthal but the NI 200 turned out exactly the same.