Official DNA 40 introduction

[350ZMO]

OK...that is sensible but with a pre-fire are we in the same boat? I am referring to the point at which we are working the coil, pulse firing. If we turn TC off and watts down, can the temp be controlled enough to get a good pre-fire?

And I am not sure I ever caught why getting the wire too hot is an issue. What is the problem with over heating the wire?

Like sedge I too get a metallic taste on new builds, wire from lightning vapes that is not tempo, I asked them if they knew if their wire was at least annealed and the response was "almost 100% certain" it was. I am going to try leaving the 40 in TP mode at 410 no wick no juice and dry fire it while blowing on it a few times on the next build.

 

[DejayRezme]

And I am not sure I ever caught why getting the wire too hot is an issue. What is the problem with over heating the wire?

I think more experimentation is needed. Does the wire stay reflective or does it get "pitted"? Does it get softer or more brittle?

My personal experience was that the wire seemed to get even softer and a bit "dull". But we'd need macro photos.

I suspect from a safety perspective it's mostly that any stuff that is on the wire already (lubricant from manufacturing, dust, oil from your hands or gunk from juice) can react with the wire much better with higher temperatures. So you are creating new compounds, either with the nickel or with the impurities. Nickel is corrosion resistant so probably this is probably rather overcautious and nothing bad will happen.

Dry burn helps in nothing but accelerating the thermal breakdown of the metal. Use acetone and water or ethanol to clean the wires before making the coils. It is really useless and probably harmful to dry-burn the coils.

 

[HolmanGT]

Why are you trying to get the resistance above 0.18Ω? The specs say 0.10Ω is fine and I have heard of many people having no issues as low as 0.65Ω.

Actually the specs say 0.1 is the minimum 0.4 is typical and 1.0 is the maximum.

Did you mean 0.065 for you very low measurement?

 

[Bassnorma]

The thing is that even if your coil reads at .065 you are still only vaping at 0.1 ohms due to soft limiting.

 

[want to quit]

I build a bigger id coul yesterday at 0.30 and I feel like it's working a lot better than my earlier coils at 0.15


edit: could be due to the actually id rather than the ohm but it works way better

 

[HolmanGT]

The thing is that even if your coil reads at .065 you are still only vaping at 0.1 ohms due to soft limiting.

Because the Soft Limits hold the current to the point that would be drawn if you had a 0.1 ohm coil doesn't make a 0.065 ohm coil behave the same as a 0.1 ohm coil. I am not trying to start a bickering debate here but even at 0.1 ohms you are at the limits of the suggested low end. Why would you ever want to run right up against the lower limit of any device.

As I have said before I have a conventional Mod that has a lower limit of 1.6 ohms and when I run at the lower limit sometime the unit fires and sometime it doesn't. Why push the lower limit unless you just want to see how unpredictable the device can be. I personally don't like taking aspirin just to cope with my rather expensive mod acting erratic or not performing up to it's claims.

 

[Bassnorma]

Because the Soft Limits hold the current to the point that would be drawn if you had a 0.1 ohm coil doesn't make a 0.065 ohm coil behave the same as a 0.1 ohm coil. I am not trying to start a bickering debate here but even at 0.1 ohms you are at the limits of the suggested low end. Why would you ever want to run right up against the lower limit of any device.

As I have said before I have a conventional Mod that has a lower limit of 1.6 ohms and when I run at the lower limit sometime the unit fires and sometime it doesn't. Why push the lower limit unless you just want to see how unpredictable the device can be. I personally don't like taking aspirin just to cope with my rather expensive mod acting erratic or not performing up to it's claims.

I agree Holman, I wasn't trying to say that anyone should push the limit....Just tossed it out there in case the earlier poster was assuming they were actually vaping at .065

 

[HolmanGT]

I build a bigger id coul yesterday at 0.30 and I feel like it's working a lot better than my earlier coils at 0.15


edit: could be due to the actually id rather than the ohm but it works way better

Well I don't know what ID you used but the two Ni200 build videos posted earlier had IDs around 2.5 - 3.0 mm so that probably helps. I would venture to guess that using a coil resistance that is close to the Evolv "Typical" value and the larger coil ID working together may account for your Eureka moment. If it works for you once chances are pretty good that it will continue perform well if you keep the coil parameters the same.

"If it ain't brock don't (change it) fix it"

Glad you finally got a satisfactory vape from you DNA-40.

 

[SeniorBoy]

....wrap some coils around 2mm ekowool and give that a go.

Just due it PLEASE so I can take a friggin nap! /lol

Use 28 gauge Ni200 and 12 wraps to get you started. The 40 has "soft limits" all the way down to 0.06 so PLEASE don't worry about anything else besides wrapping the friggin coil, installing same. See what your meter reads. Finish and vape.

Please I need a nap so due me a flavor /lol Ignore all the other stuff you read here and see. Wraps are next to each other. No more and no less. After you are up and running and can say to yourself I did it and I'm cool, we can fine tune as their is a wealth of knowledge in this thread BUT unless you "start" you can't "finish" the journey.

OK?

 

[HolmanGT]

I agree Holman, I wasn't trying to say that anyone should push the limit....Just tossed it out there in case the earlier poster was assuming they were actually vaping at .065

Sorry Bass,

Sometime I read quick and respond with a knee-jerk response (or maybe just a jerk response )

Actually I have seen some of the post about coils at 0.065 and just decided to not say anything because most that I have seen think there unit is working just fine. Usually any debate when the other person thinks it is working great and you (me in this case) thinks maybe not usually doesn't end well.

 

[Bassnorma]

Sorry Bass,

Sometime I read quick and respond with a knee-jerk response (or maybe just a jerk response )

Actually I have seen some of the post about coils at 0.065 and just decided to not say anything because most that I have seen think there unit is working just fine. Usually any debate when the other person thinks it is working great and you (me in this case) thinks maybe not usually doesn't end well.

Again, I agree and we are perfectly fine...((((hugs))))

 

[ED-209]

Greetings fellow DNA 40 users,

I'm hoping I'm not the only one who's having this type of issue:

I'm using a Hana Modz with a DNA 40 and initially built a .19 ohm NI contact coil with 28 GA wire with about 11 wraps (there was a hot spot but fixed it with ceramic tweezers when building). Initially the TC was working perfect but after a couple of hours it reverted back to volts and mainly stays there. The ohms now shows .44 ohms and every now and then the TC will come back on and I've seen the ohms go back to .28 ohms?

I'm not really sure why this is happening. I'm using a Russian v2.0. I don't get any harsh taste and when the TC kicks in the temperature doesn't go above 250 or so. I have it set at 9.5 watts.

Thanks for any help and info as I just want to make sure I don't have a faulty chip/mod.

 

[MordorMongo]

Greetings fellow DNA 40 users,

I'm hoping I'm not the only one who's having this type of issue:

I'm using a Hana Modz with a DNA 40 and initially built a .19 ohm NI contact coil with 28 GA wire with about 11 wraps (there was a hot spot but fixed it with ceramic tweezers when building). Initially the TC was working perfect but after a couple of hours it reverted back to volts and mainly stays there. The ohms now shows .44 ohms and every now and then the TC will come back on and I've seen the ohms go back to .28 ohms?

I'm not really sure why this is happening. I'm using a Russian v2.0. I don't get any harsh taste and when the TC kicks in the temperature doesn't go above 250 or so. I have it set at 9.5 watts.

Thanks for any help and info as I just want to make sure I don't have a faulty chip/mod.

Have you checked the 510? My R91 leaks a tad sometimes and ANY moisture on the 510 will cause issues I've found.

Also, what is ID of your coil?? 0.19 seems high for 11 wraps of 28 gauge honestly...my 10 wrap, 3mm coils are right at about 0.10-0.12 with 28 gauge.

I'd check 510 and your connections....make sure center block isn't moving, etc.

Hope you get it sorted out!

 

[gray]

Interesting....I do same thing but it seems like the nickel stretches or something. I can get it in fine but one of two things happens : either 1. In tightening the negative screw or positive nut it pulls the legs and misshapes the coil or 2. I think it is in fine but after 30 mins or so of vaping the coil gets looser and looser causing ohms to bounce, then if I just try and tighten it again I get back to number 1 and it misshapes coil way too easily, even when wicked.

This is only atty it is happening in and I just assumed it was a product of the MUCH longer legs than anything else I have built.

I will try again tonight to figure out what is going wrong as I have built the thing dozens of times with kanthal (single and dual) and never had the issue.

Driving can't quote for some reason. I would like to know what wite you use that isn't so springy because my 30-32 is the biggest pita I have ever worked with. I use a coul machine and once the pressure is off the cool springs apart leaving huge gaps.

That is the frustrating part. The only wire that works well enough for me is the 28g but I was never able to get it above 0.18ohm

This is very odd. I just checked the wire again and it is not near as springy as what is being described. The wire I'm using is from "lightningvapes". Not sure if they have a store front on the web, but it is on the auction site. I'm not associated with them in any way. All four orders over a few months have been top notch however.

Now I'm worried about what I'm using. Maybe a few of the people here can get together and send Brandon samples with batch/date from the spool markings. They did start this entire fascinating mess after all.

 

[Bassnorma]

Did I see in this thread somewhere that someone managed to build in series duals? I have a spare Orchid that I would like to put chimney nickel coils on....am I insane?...wait....don't answer that last bit...lol

 

[TheKiwi]

Just curious.

Checked on temco, and found that the specific heat capacity of nickel wire is very close to that of kanthal.

Given that we are now building significantly bigger coils for the same gauge size, is anyone finding that they need to crank up the wattage noticeable? Still waiting for my mod to come in. But just wondering if that's smth people are experiencing. 28ga, 11 - 13 wraps around 3mm is a massive coil and a whole lot of wire mass :O


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

 

[Bassnorma]

Just curious.

Checked on temco, and found that the specific heat capacity of nickel wire is very close to that of kanthal.

Given that we are now building significantly bigger coils for the same gauge size, is anyone finding that they need to crank up the wattage noticeable? Still waiting for my mod to come in. But just wondering if that's smth people are experiencing. 28ga, 11 - 13 wraps around 3mm is a massive coil and a whole lot of wire mass :O


Burping out loud using Tapatalk

I built a .33 around 2mm and some ridiculously large number of wraps...I think like 18 (can't remember now) but it was 32 g so the coil was not overly long...I am still trying to figure out the watts thing because with TC, I never get the watts I set for a sustained time. It is only at high watts for a split second...then again I have temp set between 390 and 410 to keep from burning cotton in case it doesn't wick properly...

 

[MordorMongo]

This is very odd. I just checked the wire again and it is not near as springy as what is being described. The wire I'm using is from "lightningvapes". Not sure if they have a store front on the web, but it is on the auction site. I'm not associated with them in any way. All four orders over a few months have been top notch however.

Now I'm worried about what I'm using. Maybe a few of the people here can get together and send Brandon samples with batch/date from the spool markings. They did start this entire fascinating mess after all.

I order all my wire direct from lightning vapes site.

I just built a 28 gauge single coil build for Veritas, I turned off TP, lowered wattage and pinched it (I know verdict is still out on that) and so far it is far more stable. Will put it through the paces this evening to see if it holds up. I did notice when I pulsed it the top lead sagged just a bit (I was making sure it wouldn't short by touching that top deck so I knew it sagged a little) but not a concern yet.

 

[suspectK]

Seniorboy, I've heard from several people that lightning vapes gets their wire from China, can anyone confirm this hearsay bs?

Temco is cheaper.. I'll just buy from the people that created most new resistance wire.

 

[KTMRider]

Best prices I've found for wire has been on Amazon and eBay and sold mainly by 2 vendors, Lightning Vapes and Temco. LV is cheaper if you buy from eBay or Amazon, usually. Much more on their commercial site. I have wire from both and I haven't noticed a difference in wires. I got 100' of 30g Ni200 (Pure Nickel) from LV thru eBay for $5.80 shipped.