Official DNA 40 introduction

[want to quit]

Ed green facebook. Your welcome kiwi finally I could give back haha

Edit; he's he one that put a fat daddy 510 and new button on dimi's hana mods. Contacted him and his pricing is fantastic.

 

[SeniorBoy]

So where do we stand on "torching" or "glowing" nickel wire? I am torn and conflicted. Please somebody nudge me in one direction or the other because this fence riding is killing me.

Yea I get it /lol

My next Ni build will be what I affectionately wish to call "The Phil + Build" with a wave to @P

Wrap and install the Ni coil. Leave TC ON BUT and I due mean ON BUT ramp the temp to the max of 600F (you welcome Phil) hahahah and then while blowing across the coil fire and squeeze. I might even remember to clean the coil in something and then wash but I'm not making any guarantees since I never taste Nickel unlike Phil who taste it and never cleans before a Ni wrap.

HTH

 

[KGie]

BTW, I cleaned the Lightning Vapes Ni200 with vodka then dry fired while blowing on it 5 times with TP at normal for me 410F. Wicked it, wetted it and filled it and no nasty taste.

Many thanks for that info, 350 - since I just placed an order with Lightning Vapes yesterday for Ni200, that is exactly what I intend to do when I get my nickel wire. Can I ask how long each of the 5 dry firings were? Although I guess firing any coil while dry is indeed technically dry-firing, with TP engaged the coil shouldn't get any hotter than if it weren't dry, so it would appear you've figured out how to get the best of both worlds - clean the coil, without causing any damage to the metal or the off-gassing of undesirable compounds that might happen at higher temps.

Since you have now calibrated your taste buds to the flavor of Lightning Vapes Ni200 when both dirty and cleaned, I am hereby designating you the ECF official Ni200 taster. And you'll be pleased to know you've been tasting Chinese Ni200. (Or maybe not so much :-(. ) I recently placed an order for a couple spools of 28 and 30 gauge Ni200 direct from Temco; if you wanted, I'd be happy to send you some lengths and you could compare them as received, and after cleaning using your method above, to the wire from LIghtning Vapes. (And keep the extra wire.

Long as I'm offering to pay tomorrow for a hamburger I want now (some of us are old enuf to get that reference, right?), anyone have any genuine Temco wire they'd be willing to trade a length of now for some of my Temco wire when it arrives? (I'll make it worth your while. ) When I ordered it Temco gave a shipping time of 13 weeks, but since the shipping time doesn't seem to change I've got the sneaking suspicion it'll arrive earlier. (But that's just a guess.)

Now all I need is my Vapor Shark to arrive so I can actually use all these goodies. lol

 

[HolmanGT]

Footnote:

A good reason for cleaning any wire Ni or Kanthal is according to one article I read they use soap as a lubricant during the extrusion process.


PS - That is industrial soap not your wife's beauty bar.

 

[DejayRezme]

That's some good info. I was suspecting that the wire could have some kind of coating. The wire I got from ziviph is fine but it's possible some initial taste got masked by the initial taste of the KGD cotton. But after 2-3 draws it tastes clean.

 

[350ZMO]

Many thanks for that info, 350 - since I just placed an order with Lightning Vapes yesterday for Ni200, that is exactly what I intend to do when I get my nickel wire. Can I ask how long each of the 5 dry firings were? Although I guess firing any coil while dry is indeed technically dry-firing, with TP engaged the coil shouldn't get any hotter than if it weren't dry, so it would appear you've figured out how to get the best of both worlds - clean the coil, without causing any damage to the metal or the off-gassing of undesirable compounds that might happen at higher temps.

Since you have now calibrated your taste buds to the flavor of Lightning Vapes Ni200 when both dirty and cleaned, I am hereby designating you the ECF official Ni200 taster. And you'll be pleased to know you've been tasting Chinese Ni200. (Or maybe not so much :-(. ) I recently placed an order for a couple spools of 28 and 30 gauge Ni200 direct from Temco; if you wanted, I'd be happy to send you some lengths and you could compare them as received, and after cleaning using your method above, to the wire from LIghtning Vapes. (And keep the extra wire.

Long as I'm offering to pay tomorrow for a hamburger I want now (some of us are old enuf to get that reference, right?), anyone have any genuine Temco wire they'd be willing to trade a length of now for some of my Temco wire when it arrives? (I'll make it worth your while. ) When I ordered it Temco gave a shipping time of 13 weeks, but since the shipping time doesn't seem to change I've got the sneaking suspicion it'll arrive earlier. (But that's just a guess.)

Now all I need is my Vapor Shark to arrive so I can actually use all these goodies. lol

No problem, seemed obvious to me. They were about 3s each.

LOL! yeah...Wimpy! Thanks KGie, but nah, the only official thing I want to be anymore is retired. Keep yer temco you can taste it when yer temco comes in and let us know, I bet it'll taste the same. The Lightning Vapes wire works just fine. I had the same exact thing happen with Kanthal, no clean no burn = nasty taste. Clean and burn all goes away. The only difference is now it is burned at the same temp it will be used at. Once you do this process or gag through the first several puffs when you don't so this, there is truly nothing to taste. Yeah I knew it was Chinese. So was the Kanthal I'd been using...But so is the glass and SS in the attys which I always wash with ethyl regardless of RoHS claims.

BTW, I expect the Chinese Ni200 isn't as pure, close in tolerance, accurate or consistent and expect it has more actual impurities of some sort it in than made is USA temco, I would bet on it, just based on..."tradition". However, I cant taste it, and really don't care as I expect any ol drive down the interstate exposes me to a lot worse. Also the wire is probably annealed which lightning says they are "almost 100% certain" it is. When you get your temco you might want to compare it's ductility and flexibility - gauge for gauge - to the Chinese. Annealing makes it softer and more ductile. If there is a large difference between USA and Chinese Ni200, I would expect it in quality control or lack thereof. Not that I think it matters much.

Hope you get your Vapor Shark soon.

 

[KGie]

According to Temco's website, it's annealed, so I wouldn't expect much difference there.

Sorry, can't help with the retirement. :-(

 

[idioso]

I'm about to read through all 107 pages of this thread (seriously) and catch up but I have a quick question.

My Hana is asking me to verify new coil/same coil pretty regularly. Why would it do this? Only thing I can think of is that my build seems jumpy by a few 0.01. Kind of annoying. Anyway to correct this?

 

[want to quit]

It's actually good that it does that. I'm not a pro so always when I post something wait for someone else to address the same question lol.

A warm coil will work different than a new coil in regards to the temp.

So if you just used a coil and screw it off and back on you want to say old coil but if you unscrew your (let's say) kayfun to replace it with your nickel rda that's been sitting around for 30mins or longer you want to select new voil as that coil on your rda is cold or at room temp.

The dna40 is also monitoring your coil so if you don't select new coil on your rda that you just attached it will assume it's still firing that kayfun which has been on your mod for the whole time.

Hope that makes sense and I hope my reasoning isn't too far off

 

[k5blazer]

Just picked up a Hana Modz Dna 40 this weekend at Vapercon. The vendor had the Lightening Vapes nickel wire in 28g he threw in along with a 30ml of juice. I just read a few pages of this thread, watched the Basil Ray youtube vid and went for a build. I used a 3.3mm mandrel, did a 11/10 wrap for my russian 91 which came in at .17 build and holding steady. Initial setup was at 430 temp and 15w. It hit the temp limit with that setting, but not without a good pull. Then I just bumped the temp to 450, watts to 16. Could not be happier. It doesn't hit the temp limit and gives a nice vape for me. I did rub down the wire with some 151 and a water rinse, no bad taste that I can detect. I did a dry fire to get the coil correct. I dry fired at 7w, compressed just once, and the next fire was at 10w and looked just right. Pretty happy with this setup so far, so I guess I'll experiment later when the mood strikes.

 

[want to quit]

Awesome K5. I as well start to get a hold of this thing after a week now. I'll still not dry burn my coil as Brandon clearly said to not do it but everyone their own.

My latest celebration coil was today with a nice 30g 3mm ID on my kayfun at 450F (too much??) and 16W. Loving it and it still gives me the nice warm TH I like so much.

 

[k5blazer]

Awesome K5. I as well start to get a hold of this thing after a week now. I'll still not dry burn my coil as Brandon clearly said to not do it but everyone their own.

My latest celebration coil was today with a nice 30g 3mm ID on my kayfun at 450F (too much??) and 16W. Loving it and it still gives me the nice warm TH I like so much.

wtq, since this was my first build I figured I'd just do what br did in the utube vid. I didn't want to start out getting frustrated. My ohms did settle to .21 and I bumped the watts to 18 for a warmer vape, still not hitting the temp limit of 450. My next build I'll use a 10/9 wrap and try to get around .15-18ohm, and NOT dry fire it to see if I can do it with no issues. I have a magma rda I'd like to do a dual build for, but right now I'm really enjoying what I have now.

 

[idioso]

It's actually good that it does that. I'm not a pro so always when I post something wait for someone else to address the same question lol.

A warm coil will work different than a new coil in regards to the temp.

So if you just used a coil and screw it off and back on you want to say old coil but if you unscrew your (let's say) kayfun to replace it with your nickel rda that's been sitting around for 30mins or longer you want to select new voil as that coil on your rda is cold or at room temp.

The dna40 is also monitoring your coil so if you don't select new coil on your rda that you just attached it will assume it's still firing that kayfun which has been on your mod for the whole time.

Hope that makes sense and I hope my reasoning isn't too far off

I understand that when you put a new atty on that that's necessary. That part is cool. What I'm describing happens without removing my atty. I'll take a few pulls then go to take another and the "new coil/same coil" prompt is there again. This doesn't happen to anyone else?

 

[HolmanGT]

I understand that when you put a new atty on that that's necessary. That part is cool. What I'm describing happens without removing my atty. I'll take a few pulls then go to take another and the "new coil/same coil" prompt is there again. This doesn't happen to anyone else?

idioso,

I am sure you probably said in your original post but I can't find it. What type of mod are you using?

 

[idioso]

idioso,

I am sure you probably said in your original post but I can't find it. What type of mod are you using?

I'm using a Hana Modz. Not sure if this happens to everyone but my coil seems to bounce a tiny bit. My build is probably the problem. It was glowing evenly and all that but maybe I fired it too long. Still trying to dial it in with the rest of you folks.

Thanks in advance for the any advice

 

[350ZMO]

I'm using a Hana Modz. Not sure if this happens to everyone but my coil seems to bounce a tiny bit. My build is probably the problem. It was glowing evenly and all that but maybe I fired it too long. Still trying to dial it in with the rest of you folks.

Thanks in advance for the any advice

Yes loose connection, center pin, post screws, adjustable center pin, dirty 510, check them all happened to me - center pin on BIG fogger was loose. It didn't appear loose but when I took out the adjustable center pin and tightened the center post screw (which surprised me it would tighten) problem went away. Just make sure you're not putting atty on hot and selecting new as WTQ said.

Also at least one other hana owner had to send theirs back for a center pin in the 510 that was too low.

 

[want to quit]

I'm just happy you love it that's all that matters. In regards to the heating up coils I think currently it's 50-50 so who knows what is right or wrong but I am glad you do it at low temps to not exceed the heat limit of 600 for nickel (from what I read a few pages back)

wtq, since this was my first build I figured I'd just do what br did in the utube vid. I didn't want to start out getting frustrated. My ohms did settle to .21 and I bumped the watts to 18 for a warmer vape, still not hitting the temp limit of 450. My next build I'll use a 10/9 wrap and try to get around .15-18ohm, and NOT dry fire it to see if I can do it with no issues. I have a magma rda I'd like to do a dual build for, but right now I'm really enjoying what I have now.

 

[sedge]

Would a digital hot plate helps us determine the vaporizing point and the burning/charing point of ejuice?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003NV43C4?pc_redir=1414184411&robot_redir=1

 

[HolmanGT]

I'm using a Hana Modz. Not sure if this happens to everyone but my coil seems to bounce a tiny bit. My build is probably the problem. It was glowing evenly and all that but maybe I fired it too long. Still trying to dial it in with the rest of you folks.

Thanks in advance for the any advice

Yes loose connection, center pin, post screws, adjustable center pin, dirty 510, check them all happened to me - center pin on BIG fogger was loose. It didn't appear loose but when I took out the adjustable center pin and tightened the center post screw (which surprised me it would tighten) problem went away. Just make sure you're not putting atty on hot and selecting new as WTQ said.

Also at least one other hana owner had to send theirs back for a center pin in the 510 that was too low.

You beat me to it 350,

idioso,

Do you have another atty you could try or does the one you have, have an adjustable positive center pin?

There have been many reports of the Hana DNA 40 center pin beening set too low and not making contact. As far as I know the only thing that would trigger the DNA 40 to ask about a new atty is an intermittent positive connection.

Maybe you could try a 510 connection extender.... ??? see if it changes anything.

 

[Pete54]

I'm using a Hana Modz. Not sure if this happens to everyone but my coil seems to bounce a tiny bit. My build is probably the problem. It was glowing evenly and all that but maybe I fired it too long. Still trying to dial it in with the rest of you folks.

Thanks in advance for the any advice

The dreaded Hana 510 center pin, rearing it's ugly head!