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Heespharm,
I am sure you already know but I will mention it anyway 0.1 ohms is the low end limit for Ni200.
Heespharm,
It just dawned on me... 20 wraps for 30 ga dual coils should give you a total resistance more along the lines of 0.2 to 0.3 ohms. Are you winding "touching" coils. I have found that doesn't work with Ni200 the coils short to one another. Kanthal touching works and doesn't short and I think that is because the Kanthal oxidizes and insulates one turn from the next.
But what do I know this Ni200 it driving me nuts. I was perfectly happy with my "Seven 30" MODs with Kanthal no aspirin, headaches and frustration.
Heespharm,
It just dawned on me... 20 wraps for 30 ga dual coils should give you a total resistance more along the lines of 0.2 to 0.3 ohms. Are you winding "touching" coils. I have found that doesn't work with Ni200 the coils short to one another. Kanthal touching works and doesn't short and I think that is because the Kanthal oxidizes and insulates one turn from the next.
But what do I know this Ni200 it driving me nuts. I was perfectly happy with my "Seven 30" MODs with Kanthal no aspirin, headaches and frustration.
Yes I wrap touching... Works just fine but will lower your resistance
"Ya-But" remember that Evolv says you can build touching but all the wraps must touch. Just saying - not to mention how does one verify that they are all touching.
I know that the DNA-40 fires with coils below 0.1 ohms but when I did it my unit would occasionally switch to "Voltage" mode when I took it up above 0.1 that problem went away.
I am running dual coils in my fogger right now and I think some of the coils are touching (some not) and I am getting that voltage mode switching again.
This Ni200 is going to be the death of me. I am so frustrated just ignore my comments. I am just venting my anger toward an inanimate piece of wire than being of any real help to anyone.
Single coil on a 2mm with 30awg NI200 would be about 6 wraps for .1 ohm... Dual coil only 12 wraps would give you .1 ohm... Right now in my orchid I have duals with a 2.5mm ID with 12 wraps each coming in at .11 ohm... Somethings not right....
And for the record, I only do micro-coils... (i.e. contact coils with all the wraps touching...)
Heespharm,
It just dawned on me... 20 wraps for 30 ga dual coils should give you a total resistance more along the lines of 0.2 to 0.3 ohms. Are you winding "touching" coils. I have found that doesn't work with Ni200 the coils short to one another. Kanthal touching works and doesn't short and I think that is because the Kanthal oxidizes and insulates one turn from the next.
But what do I know this Ni200 it driving me nuts. I was perfectly happy with my "Seven 30" MODs with Kanthal no aspirin, headaches and frustration.
I do contact coils exclusively. I don't have any problems with it. And resistance always comes out almost dead on to what I calculate it out to be. I think the important step here is "slightly glowing" the coil and nudging/compressing it until it's firing evenly. Many don't do this... To me I've found that it's absolutely a must to get the best vape. I say "slightly glowing" because I turn off TP, and turn the wattage down really low... Then just pulse it... You don't want them to glow bright because it'll leach carbon deposits out of the NI200... You have to just get it lighting enough that you can see where it's firing... Then compress/nudge and keep going (ceramic tweezers work fantastic for this) until it's firing perfectly even...
I'm sorry you're still struggling with the nickel... I feel your pain... I was there too... I was really growing to hate the stuff... But once I started work hardening it first it became pretty much the same as kanthal to work with... Don't give up... You'll get it!
My next coil build I will use your method to "Work Harden" the Ni200.
"Don't give up" - I keep telling my self that. I know it is a matter of learning a new skill but sometimes I find myself running out of motivation to keep going until I finally master it.
Quick question, what batteries do you guys recommend for the DNA40? I'm getting a VaporShark rDNA40, eventually [emoji27] , and it comes with the LG 2500mAh. They're rated at 30a pulse but only 20a continuous and per VaporShark's website:
"Disclaimer:.The LG 2500mah 35A 18650 Battery is an excellent option for the majority of users, however; for builds below 1.0 ohm we recommend the use of a battery with a higher amp limit, such as the.Sony US18650VTC4"
This is only on the rDNA 30's page so I'm confused as to if the same applies with the new board. Tyabksvv
"Disclaimer:.The LG 2500mah 35A 18650 Battery is an excellent option for the majority of users, however; for builds below 1.0 ohm we recommend the use of a battery with a higher amp limit, such as the.Sony US18650VTC4"
This is only on the rDNA 30's page so I'm confused as to if the same applies with the new board. Tyabksvv
Or someone pops in and gives you some zero nic ejuice?
Great tip KGie,
I am embarrassed to admit that I never even gave that a thought. But that's what ECF comrades are for right - "Thank God".
Actually I will order some for the future. I have had the OD problem before. When I am doing a couple of normal tank rebuilds at the same time I have experienced the woozy feel testing everything - you'd think I would learn...
The included LG should be fine for the rDNA40. From the Evolv DNA 40 datasheet:
Battery:
A single cell rechargeable lithium chemistry battery is recommended. Either a lithium ion or a lithium polymer type can be used. Any battery used should be rated for a MINIMUM of 16 amps continuous discharge current. High C rated lithium polymer or IMR cylindrical cells are strongly preferred. Make sure that all contacts and connections are capable of handling at least 16 amps.
I use these from 101vape.com, Efest 35AMP IMR18650- 2500mah- Flat Top $9.99 each.
Efest 35AMP IMR18650- 2500mah- Flat Top
Great tip KGie,
I am embarrassed to admit that I never even gave that a thought. But that's what ECF comrades are for right - "Thank God".
Actually I will order some for the future. I have had the OD problem before. When I am doing a couple of normal tank rebuilds at the same time I have experienced the woozy feel testing everything - you'd think I would learn...
I've considered making a little pump that would puff my atty's till they're dry when I want to change flavors. Quick, painless, and I wouldn't have to be concerned with the situation where I was trying to flavor change from a juice that was at my regular nic level.
Oh Lord, is there no end to the projects we can think of? lol
I don't think so... projects seem to come with vaping. I wouldn't even admit how much time I spend dinking with this stuff. You ever notice how most vapor are cursed with OCD.
Actually I personally don't have OCD I just like burning all my free time rebuild attys and trying ways to make it better.
My dad always said sometimes if you just simplify you can come up with the greatest ideas. When I want to change flavor on the dna40 and I want to do it quickly without actually vaping it, I just... Well... blow.. Lol... fire it and blow.. till she's dry.
My dad always said sometimes if you just simplify you can come up with the greatest ideas. When I want to change flavor on the dna40 and I want to do it quickly without actually vaping it, I just... Well... blow.. Lol... fire it and blow.. till she's dry.
I like it, but -- won't that blow the remaining juice all over the place on some attys? What atty are you using?
Just as an FYI I am done with the dna40 for now. I enjoy my mechs and my dna30 with a kayfun and my cotton never gets even slightly burned so I keep following you folks and your experiments until I am certain to try it again.
Just too much headaches and hustle for me but I did truly enjoy the vape just too much work for me.
carry on lol
Just too much headaches and hustle for me but I did truly enjoy the vape just too much work for me.
carry on lol
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