Official DNA 40 introduction

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TheKiwi

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There are truly few things in life harder than wicking spaced Ni200 coils with rayon.

Took me forever

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13 or 12 wraps, 30 ga around a 7/64 drill bit, 0.11 ohm

For some reason, my dual coils hit 450F super quickly. Not sure why. Hmm


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Heespharm

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It's a fogger v4... Kiwi, have u tried the double insertion method... Take the amount of wicking material you would normally put through the coils and split in half length wise... Roll up one end of each to a point and insert simultaneously from each end of the coil and pull through... This give equal pressure to both sides so your coils don't move... They will just scrunch up a little but then adjusting back and forth a little and it goes back into shape
 

HolmanGT

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It's a fogger v4... Kiwi, have u tried the double insertion method... Take the amount of wicking material you would normally put through the coils and split in half length wise... Roll up one end of each to a point and insert simultaneously from each end of the coil and pull through... This give equal pressure to both sides so your coils don't move... They will just scrunch up a little but then adjusting back and forth a little and it goes back into shape

Thanks Heespharm,

I was just looking at "Orchids" and they didn't look like the. The reason I asked is it looks like it has more coil space then my Fogger V4.4 or V5.
 

Woofer

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I would guess that with TP off, the coil may easily hit 600° F plus when pulsed to glowing. Personally I'd almost bet on it, but I'll wait until Phil gets his $4k FLIR camera aimed at it before I put any money on it. ;)

I'm sure you are correct about the temp > 600, my point/question is does it matter at all if we heat the Ni200 to well beyond 600F.
I expect most will be using Temco Ni 200, is it a Ni200/Ni201 blended specification that is then good for service up to 1230F in pressure vessels.
Even if it dry burning embrittles the Ni200 does that matter at all, there is very little stress on the coil.
 

TheKiwi

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It's a fogger v4... Kiwi, have u tried the double insertion method... Take the amount of wicking material you would normally put through the coils and split in half length wise... Roll up one end of each to a point and insert simultaneously from each end of the coil and pull through... This give equal pressure to both sides so your coils don't move... They will just scrunch up a little but then adjusting back and forth a little and it goes back into shape

Yup. JeremyR recommended that so I'll do that in my next rebuild. I've personally never done it before so it'll be interesting. But yeah. 30ga Ni is no joke to wick with using rayon.

Thanks Heespharm,

I was just looking at "Orchids" and they didn't look like the. The reason I asked is it looks like it has more coil space then my Fogger V4.4 or V5.

AH yes. This is the v4.3 which was the only version with the wider deck. I seriously doubt it'll be possible to use any other version if you wanna have temp protection. There just isn't enough space to accommodate the coil, esp if you are gonna use spaced coil like I do. And that was with a 7/64 drill bit too and came out to only 0.11 ohm.

I'm just never gonna use contact coil with Ni. I've spent hours building approx 14 contact builds and tested them. Got all of them wicked and juiced up. Fired them with top caps off, and I noticed in more than 70% of the builds, there was the brightest and most intense hot legs I've EVER seen. And guess what? The resistance and temperature reading seems to indicate nothing is wrong. The fact that the chip takes an average temperature + the sheer mass of wire needed probably explains why. I'm certain there's smth waaaaaay difference in terms of how the resistance of a contar Ni coil works compared to a contact kanthal, and it doesn't work so well. A few other members have also observed the same; some folks using 32ga even reported that the legs straight up just broke/burst from the hot legs

That's also assuming I don't pulse fire and compress the coils


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Heespharm

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Yup. JeremyR recommended that so I'll do that in my next rebuild. I've personally never done it before so it'll be interesting. But yeah. 30ga Ni is no joke to wick with using rayon.



AH yes. This is the v4.3 which was the only version with the wider deck. I seriously doubt it'll be possible to use any other version if you wanna have temp protection. There just isn't enough space to accommodate the coil, esp if you are gonna use spaced coil like I do. And that was with a 7/64 drill bit too and came out to only 0.11 ohm.

I'm just never gonna use contact coil with Ni. I've spent hours building approx 14 contact builds and tested them. Got all of them wicked and juiced up. Fired them with top caps off, and I noticed in more than 70% of the builds, there was the brightest and most intense hot legs I've EVER seen. And guess what? The resistance and temperature reading seems to indicate nothing is wrong. The fact that the chip takes an average temperature + the sheer mass of wire needed probably explains why. I'm certain there's smth waaaaaay difference in terms of how the resistance of a contar Ni coil works compared to a contact kanthal, and it doesn't work so well.

That's also assuming I don't pulse fire and compress the coils


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I do dual 12 wraps around a 2.4mm with 30 ga spaced coils... Plenty of room on the orchids, forgers, and Aqua I've built on...
 

TheKiwi

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I do dual 12 wraps around a 2.4mm with 30 ga spaced coils... Plenty of room on the orchids, forgers, and Aqua I've built on...

What resistance did it come up to?

I'm puzzled. I'm using lightning vape's Ni200. Did 13 wraps around 7/64 which is around 2.78mm. My net resistance was only 0.11 ohms, both on my flask and on my ohmeter.

I guess I'm also not so good at building tight consistent spaced coils. I def needa work on that. I just wish we used smth with higher resistance like titanium or amth


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Heespharm

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What resistance did it come up to?

I'm puzzled. I'm using lightning vape's Ni200. Did 13 wraps around 6/64 which is around 2.78mm. My net resistance was only 0.11 ohms, both on my flask and on my ohmeter.

I guess I'm also not so good at building tight consistent spaced coils. I def needa work on that. I just wish we used smth with higher resistance like titanium or amth


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0.11 ohm... You can wrap a parallel coil with two 30 ga wires then unscrew them from each other .... I've just gotten used to leaning the wire away from the coil when wrapping instead of toward the coil like when making contact coils then twisting the leads of the coil toward each other... It has enough springiness that it will touch when compressing the coil, but upon release it'll be well spaced
 

TheKiwi

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0.11 ohm... You can wrap a parallel coil with two 30 ga wires then unscrew them from each other .... I've just gotten used to leaning the wire away from the coil when wrapping instead of toward the coil like when making contact coils

......... That is absolutely bloody genius.....................

Side note: where DIDCHA get your Ni from? I'm starting to wonder if there are inconsistencies in resistance per length from diff sources.

Given that my coils are poorly built (wider spaced) and I have a significantly larger bit, my resistance should be considerably higher than yours.


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Heespharm

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......... That is absolutely bloody genius.....................

Side note: where DIDCHA get your Ni from? I'm starting to wonder if there are inconsistencies in resistance per length from diff sources.

Given that my coils are poorly built (wider spaced) and I have a significantly larger bit, my resistance should be considerably higher than yours.


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Temco wire from ebay
 

HolmanGT

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Haha to be honest after 2 days with the flask, it's been way more frustration than love for the new technology. So I'm not that excited anymore :p


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Boy can I identify with that. I am very close to just loading my flask with Kanthal and call it a day. :(
 
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