Boy can I identify with that. I am very close to just loading my flask with Kanthal and call it a day.
If only it was that easy.... good luck getting it to work with Kanthal too
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If only it was that easy.... good luck getting it to work with Kanthal too
Boy can I identify with that. I am very close to just loading my flask with Kanthal and call it a day.
HAHAAH see that was my thought: Welp. Spent way more than I wanted. But I have a fancy mod, plus it's dual 18650 (I have a weakness for that). I'll just give up and enjoy my good old kanthal.
But nope. ....... flask keeps telling me my 1+ ohm kanthal atties are 0.x ohms nickel builds. Refuses to let me tell it that its a new atty no matter how I try. I actually have to turn off TP to get it to work. It's been a nightmare so far.
"No matter how I try" was a little strong. It lets me do that once in maybe 20 tries
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I am about one more day away from retiring my Ni200s also. I just want a good vape with a modestly easy build.
I got my no-issue Flask40 from Hyperion the first day.... did you get it same place?
I am about one more day away from retiring my Ni200s also. I just want a good vape with a modestly easy build.
I'm gonna try a tad more. I'm a fairly patient fella, and I expected this to some extent when dropping the dough and being an early adopter. I'm just surprised at how poor the user experience has been. IMHO, the chip wasn't ready for prime time.
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Well Kiwi, I am not so patient but my OCD drives me to make the darn thing work. - Ugh!
And I have noticed different people post with essentially the same build but end up with significantly different resistance values and I have noticed it on my own builds with the same DNA40 - "Go Figure"
Reading all these horror stories have me less than excited to receive my rDNA now. They said it was a small number of boards that have the issue but itseems much more widespread than first thought. :-(
I'm kind glad Protovapor has added an additional 1-2 days to their lead time for quality control. While they didn't mention specifically the issues I've been reading here, I think that's what they're after.
It means it'll be a day or two longer before I get my XPV in my greedy little hands, but if it means less chance of these issues, I'm down.
Nickel 200 will give me something different to play with, but I think I'll still be going for the Kanthal most of the time. Running my Magma with kanthal and rayon, I don't remember the last time I got a dry hit. When vapor production drops of a little, I shoot some more juice into it, and all is well. When it starts getting a hint of a dry hit, the wick's looking bone dry.
BOOM!
It means it'll be a day or two longer before I get my XPV in my greedy little hands, but if it means less chance of these issues, I'm down.
Nickel 200 will give me something different to play with, but I think I'll still be going for the Kanthal most of the time. Running my Magma with kanthal and rayon, I don't remember the last time I got a dry hit. When vapor production drops of a little, I shoot some more juice into it, and all is well. When it starts getting a hint of a dry hit, the wick's looking bone dry.
BOOM!
You'll only have the screen issue with a DIY DNA mods. And I've heard from maybe 5 to 10 people with the screen issue in the forums / reddit / other forums, so it's not really that widespread. Not that I'm happy to have to RMA my chip and to the work again but it shouldn't deter you from buying a DNA40 mod.
The other problems are connectivity problems with the 510 / posts and problems with making a contact / spaced coil, not with the chip itself.
^I agree ^^
It seems its a minority of the total amount, and I have confidence that these will be worked out and everything will be up to snuff soon enough.
From what little I know about Evolv, they're a good company thats been solidly established, and will be around for a long time.
Really, imo, not experiencing any glitches, I wouldn't want to not have this chip. Its that good.
Call me a fanboy if thats what its called to appreciate a good product.
It seems its a minority of the total amount, and I have confidence that these will be worked out and everything will be up to snuff soon enough.
From what little I know about Evolv, they're a good company thats been solidly established, and will be around for a long time.
Really, imo, not experiencing any glitches, I wouldn't want to not have this chip. Its that good.
Call me a fanboy if thats what its called to appreciate a good product.
I may not be an expert, but I've done a lot of experimentation with the dna40 and nickel to find the things that work best. This is easy to see for yourself. Turn tp off and blast it with enough wattage to glow the coils brightly. You'll see what looks to be something boiling on the surface (despite the coil being dry in the beginning), and then the formation of small black beads the adhere to the surface, no doubt carbon deposits. If you just slightly glow then this isn't a problem.I wonder if this is really an issue in our application? I've tried to research it but found little comprehensible information. It seems that high temperature will cause embrittlement (loss of ductility). It appears to be used in many mission critical high temp industrial applications like nuclear reactors but our little coils are not stressed.
I found this Nickel 200/201, Nickel 200, Nickel 201, UNS N02200, UNS N02201 - MEGA MEX
A couple of highlights
" Typically, the elemental restrictions of both, nickel 200 and nickel 201, are combined into one, dual-certified chemistry resulting in a single alloy with the desired characteristics of both alloys, Nickel 200/201"
"Nickel 200 & 201 are approved for construction of pressure vessels and components under ASME Boiler and Pressure Vessel Code Section VIII, Division 1. Nickel 200 is approved for service up to 600° F while Nickel 201 is approved for service up to 1230° F. Melting point is 2615-2635° F."
I think I will assume glowing these coils is not a problem in our application. I have no qualifications to support my assumptions, I will hope an expert will offer an opinion.
Oh when it's glowing brightly it's hitting way above 600. With a balanced coil set for 600 it doesn't glow. When glowing brightly it is probably hitting way above 1000 to 1200I would guess that with TP off, the coil may easily hit 600° F plus when pulsed to glowing. Personally I'd almost bet on it, but I'll wait until Phil gets his $4k FLIR camera aimed at it before I put any money on it.
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Just received my DNA40 Vaporshark! Yea, baby!!!! Coiling with Ni200 tonight!
Good luck with it!!! I'm hoping mine works better than my flask hahah
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Not quite sure if we had this discussion here or in the other thread, but I got my Aris RDA today and it actually has small pins / tubes inside the posts that create a "platform" for the through post holes. So the screw doesn't easily cut the wire but clamps down on it. At first I was "... is in there?" and then I was "Oh look what is in there!". For my first build this worked fine, I could tighten the screws without anything snapping. So the idea of simply using stainless steel pins / nails and cut them to size to drop them in should work fine.
The Aris RDA itself is a beauty with gold plated posts and a pyrex glass top cap and internal airflow - no leaking. The airflow itself is rather tight but luckily enough for me (about the same as second airhole on Magma half closed). The airflow comes out of a center post to the left and right so I'll have to fiddle with builds.
I've made AWG30 dual contact coils with 11 wraps ID 3mm, they come out first at 0.09 ohm then 0.08 ohm and now at 0.07 ohm which makes them highly suspicious. It should be something like 0.12 ohm so probably the contacts do reduce the resistance. Upon initial dry fire the leg started to glow even with TP on and subsequent firing didn't produce any glow.
The Aris RDA itself is a beauty with gold plated posts and a pyrex glass top cap and internal airflow - no leaking. The airflow itself is rather tight but luckily enough for me (about the same as second airhole on Magma half closed). The airflow comes out of a center post to the left and right so I'll have to fiddle with builds.
I've made AWG30 dual contact coils with 11 wraps ID 3mm, they come out first at 0.09 ohm then 0.08 ohm and now at 0.07 ohm which makes them highly suspicious. It should be something like 0.12 ohm so probably the contacts do reduce the resistance. Upon initial dry fire the leg started to glow even with TP on and subsequent firing didn't produce any glow.
350,
If that is the BIG fogger it sure doesn't look as big as I was hoping it would be. The build deck look like my normal size Fogger.
By the way what resistance did you come up with total? My calculations say you should have a total of 0.05 ohms on a 3mm mandrel, 28 Ga.
nice... i love internal air flow too... i have gotten initial firing leg glow that went away too at times. and the single coil ones i have don't all have as much air flow as I would like at times; not adjustable.
350,
If that is the BIG fogger it sure doesn't look as big as I was hoping it would be. The build deck look like my normal size Fogger.
By the way what resistance did you come up with total? My calculations say you should have a total of 0.05 ohms on a 3mm mandrel, 28 Ga.
.07ohms. I rebuilt after the 3mm using a screwdriver shaft, not sure the size, but I think they are closer to 4 or 5. Here are some comparison pics:
View attachment 387824
View attachment 387825
View attachment 387826
V5 on the left, its diameter is like the original and last V4, then a V4.bigdeck which was in the middle of the V4s, like kiwi its my favorite of the V4s and then the BIG Fogger. Significantly larger deck and juice channels and post screws. I've taken the neg post out for a vertical coil build.
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