Official DNA 40 introduction

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Pete54

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Yes, push down, spring back. Never had a FDV 510 connector in my possession, but from web pics I've seen, it looks to me to be the same, or at least similar style. Maybe lol...

That looks exactly like the new V4 Fat Daddy Vapes 510 connector except for the white insulator instead of black. I'm amazed! No other Hana I've seen (and I've seen quite a few) has that connector. Why on earth, if they made that standard on new Hanas, are they not telling people! I'm guessing they're trying to get through the non-adustable inventory they have. In fact, I'd bet on it!
 

k5blazer

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That looks exactly like the new V4 Fat Daddy Vapes 510 connector except for the white insulator instead of black. I'm amazed! No other Hana I've seen (and I've seen quite a few) has that connector. Why on earth, if they made that standard on new Hanas, are they not telling people! I'm guessing they're trying to get through the non-adustable inventory they have. In fact, I'd bet on it!

Hana and Hotvapes are both located in ILL. Maybe the owner of Hotvapes is golf buddies with someone at Hana and has a foot in the door. He had no less than 30 different ones at the VaporCon with more on the way. The graphite ones look killer, but copper was my favorite.
Also, I have had zero issues with this devise as stated by other early board production users have experienced. Maybe I'm just lucky, or they have later run boards in them. Not sure how Hana numbers them, such as, color 1-through whatever, or if they do a sequence 1- through whatever on all combined colors. Mine is copper #1129 if that makes sense.
 

gray

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Yes, push down, spring back. Never had a FDV 510 connector in my possession, but from web pics I've seen, it looks to me to be the same, or at least similar style. Maybe lol...


This is good progress for them. I've seen this somewhere else. I didn't recall any mention of the connector at that time. I just assumed that it was modified right after purchase.
 

Ratpackid

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Mine looks just like that except there is no spring to it at all. It must be stuck all the way down and the threads are terrible. The 510 is not threaded all the way to the top and it looks like some are a little stripped. Some attys just drop in and will not thread at all. It is going back tomorrow for a new 510 and my 3rd chip because of screen glitches.
 

k5blazer

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Mine looks just like that except there is no spring to it at all. It must be stuck all the way down and the threads are terrible. The 510 is not threaded all the way to the top and it looks like some are a little stripped. Some attys just drop in and will not thread at all. It is going back tomorrow for a new 510 and my 3rd chip because of screen glitches.

Sorry to here you have these issues Rat. As with anything mass produced and machined, problems will occur on occasion. I feel sure Hana will sort your issues out. My threads are silky and the only issue I have had is using my russian. I feel this is an issue with the russian as my magmas have no issues.
 

DavidOH

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Mine looks just like that except there is no spring to it at all. It must be stuck all the way down and the threads are terrible. The 510 is not threaded all the way to the top and it looks like some are a little stripped. Some attys just drop in and will not thread at all. It is going back tomorrow for a new 510 and my 3rd chip because of screen glitches.

Your 3rd board? That sounds like a build problem. They should just give you a whole new one.
 

jazzvaper

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Hopefully someone can help me. I have a Vaporshark rDNA 40 and no matter what Ni200 build I do on my authentic Russian 91, I can't get it to regulate temperature right and it always comes out to 0.15ohm no matter how many wraps I do. I have temperature mode working flawlessly on my Quasar and my Patriot. I've tried using 28g and 30g Ni200 from Temco. Any help would be appreciated.

Don't know that you've sloved the R91 problem xlcel101x...

i experience something similar tonight. The R91 showed resistances far out of line with my intended build(s). :DThis on the DNA (VS) and Ohm Reader.

Rebuilt several times to no avail. Finally, adjusted the 510 pin, getting a resistance close to my goal. (Curiously that was "0.15", as I wanted to get close to another tank built to 0.17.)

Once I was setup and back in business I realized something else was likely going on: the R91 base was not screwed down/in completely.

Worth a try?
 
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xIce101x

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Don't know that you've sloved the R91 problem xlcel101x...

i experience something similar tonight. The R91 showed resistances far out of line with my intended build(s). :DThis on the DNA (VS) and Ohm Reader.

Rebuilt several times to no avail. Finally, adjusted the 510 pin, getting a resistance close to my goal. (Curiously that was "0.15", as I wanted to get close to another tank built to 0.17.)

Once I was setup and back in business I realized something else was likely going on: the R91 base was not screwed down/in completely.

Worth a try?

Mines still messing up. I've isolated the problem down to my center post. If I put my post in my friends Russian it does the same thing. I have a new pin on order so hopefully that fixes it.
 

KGie

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Just for fun, here's s couple pics I shot this morning when rebuilding my atomic rda.
Instead of the way I had been hardening the wire, I instead used a drill the way rip tripper showed to straighten kanthal. It worked beautiful and was much faster than the old method.

As I understood his video when I watched it, what you end up with is something akin to single strand (slightly) twisted wire; do I have that right, or did I miss something there? If it is single strand but twisted, then the resistance per length must go up compared to untwisted wire, albeit I would think not very much.
 

KGie

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I don't think it is a blind alley at all. There are always going to be one offs and there may be more to it, eg forums usually draw more people that have problems than those with none, but baring that stuff, I doubt seriously only one or two companies got bad chips. Both my XPV and DIY Hammond box mod work flawlessly and have worked so well they have proven useful tools in sorting out atty problems like loose center pins. And you are spot on wrt ground and not only measuring down to two decimal places but making calculations and decisions on those measurements. It could also be the gauge and length of wire used for the battery and 510, atty internals, battery contacts and even the batteries themselves. Accuracy is one thing, consistency is quite another. KGie are you a EE?

Years ago -- around the time the 4004, 8008 8080 and 8086 et al were coming out (just to give you an idea of how long ago we're talking about), I worked in digital design and for electronics journals and computer mags, and I've kept my interest more or less up-to-date through the years. (Although right now my poor o'scope is crying from neglect. I'm thinking the DIY 40 box I'm waiting on some parts for might cure its feelings of abandon.)
 

KGie

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Temco has a 13 wk back order on Ni200.

I got some from:
lightningvapes | eBay

Now I just need a rDNA.

They seem to have that delivery time permanently posted. It said that when I placed my order, which much to my surprised I received about a week later. I think they're just doing a CYA. Doesn't mean it might not be that delayed now, but I'd bet against.
 

rusirius

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As I understood his video when I watched it, what you end up with is something akin to single strand (slightly) twisted wire; do I have that right, or did I miss something there? If it is single strand but twisted, then the resistance per length must go up compared to untwisted wire, albeit I would think not very much.

Logic dictates that it must be twisted, but it's not noticeable. Maybe under a magnifier you could see some striations on something. I dunno. Resistance doesn't seem to change. I've always had my builds come out to where I estimate them to with steam engine. When you're talking about such a low resistance per foot anyway, I guess if you think about it, even if this adds an extra few mm to a 6 inch piece of wire it's really not going to effect the resistance enough to be noticeable.
 
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