Official DNA 40 introduction

[KGie]

it doesn't spin in the pliers so again it must be twisting, but not noticeably.

Agreed: "...If it is single strand but twisted, then the resistance per length must go up compared to untwisted wire, albeit I would think not very much."

How do you decide when to stop twisting? Is it sort of like adding "a dash" of salt? (Which "dash," come to think of it, maybe actually have a definition somewhere or other.)

 

[rusirius]

Agreed: "...If it is single strand but twisted, then the resistance per length must go up compared to untwisted wire, albeit I would think not very much."

How do you decide when to stop twisting? Is it sort of like adding "a dash" of salt? (Which "dash," come to think of it, maybe actually have a definition somewhere or other.)

I've just been doing it the way I do twisted stands, and that is do it until it breaks off on one end or the other. The more it twists the harder it gets so you can stop earlier and have it slightly softer

 

[TheKiwi]

Welp. Decided to go against what I was saying and did contact coils again. 28ga, 14 wraps, 0.23 ohms.

Performing shockingly well. Getting HUGE vapor and no hot legs for one.

I did mount it on a sigelei 100w, set it to 10W and slowly pulse fire it slightly and just pinching it

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[TheKiwi]

Decided to go ahead with contact coil for my fogger too. Same thing: light pulse fires at 10W. 14wraps of 30ga around 3/32 mandrel. 0.15 ohm

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[rusirius]

Decided to go ahead with contact coil for my fogger too. Same thing: light pulse fires at 10W. 14wraps of 30ga around 3/32 mandrel. 0.15 ohm

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It's lovely isn't it? [emoji16] there have been a few times I've seen posts especially early on saying you can't do them with nickel and it just blows me away because for me personally they perform outstandingly!

Anyway, those are some nice looking builds. Congrats!

 

[TheKiwi]

I was one of those. I did build approx 15 contacts and found that I would almost always get hot legs which are not registered by the chip, but would cause a burnt taste

Today I decided to just f it, and went ahead to pulse fire the coils at low wattages and get everything compressed. It works great now. Hmm


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[KTMRider]

I was one of those. I did build approx 15 contacts and found that I would almost always get hot legs which are not registered by the chip, but would cause a burnt taste

Today I decided to just f it, and went ahead to pulse fire the coils at low wattages and get everything compressed. It works great now. Hmm


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Brandon from Evolv said it was ok to heat the coils. Where is everyone getting the idea that it's dangerous?

 

[peraspera]

If you heat the Ni200 as much as most people heat Kanthal it can leach stuff (carbon?) and will reduce the ductility of the wire.

 

[KTMRider]

If you heat the Ni200 as much as most people heat Kanthal it can leach stuff (carbon?) and will reduce the ductility of the wire.

Only if it's over a certain temp which would melt the Ni200.

 

[TheKiwi]

Brandon from Evolv said it was ok to heat the coils. Where is everyone getting the idea that it's dangerous?

Haha I have no idea! Paranoia over a new thing I guess? Trying to err on the side of caution.

That said, now that I have done it with success, I'm likely to stick to contact coils, and pulse firing at low wattages to get it nice and compact. So far my builds have had no fluctuating temperature or resistance readings, and none of that random burnt taste.


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[KTMRider]

When I get my rDNA 40, I'll heat the coils and see how it goes. If you guys don't hear from me after that, don't heat the coils.

 

[JamieZ4M]

Just finished installing my dna40 chip to a fasttech hana clone. First time I've ever done anything like this and I'm extremely happy and pleased with myself lol.

The picture of the display was with the kanthal coil. Pics of the orchid Base was after building a 14 wrap 32guage ni200 coil. Has been working excellently all evening until I got a hot vape and charred the rayon, now it needs rewicking :/ not sure what happened as the resistance readings have been extremely consistent although I have had problems with the orchid centre pin before so that was probably the cause. 510 connector is a fat daddy's spring loaded so that's working well

 

[JamieZ4M]

Regarding the ni200 build, I switched off the temp control and pulsed it. I manipulated the coil essentially the same as with kanthal. Wasn't going for an as tight as possible coil, just even heating which I achieved pretty easily. Just used a slightly more delicate touch than with kanthal. Can't say how much more difficult the ni200 was to work with as I haven't actually built a coil like this with 32 gauge kanthal before.

Edit: dual 14 wrap 32 gauge ni200 wrapped on a 2.4mm (I think) bit. Came out at 0.22 ohms

 

[TheKiwi]

When I get my rDNA 40, I'll heat the coils and see how it goes. If you guys don't hear from me after that, don't heat the coils.

The thing though, even when I was pulsing my 28ga 3/32 id 14 wraps build at 7 watts (THATS a HUGE amount of mass to heat up with 7 watts) THE MOMENT the coil even starts to remotely glow, the wire changes color significantly. It turns darkish purple. So physically it does indeed undergo some kind of change.

The question really is, if that change is physiologically acceptable for our usage. I have no clue. When I pulse my kanthal, it pretty much changes color too so I guess that kinda allays some of my fear.

So. Yeah. I'm gonna keep doing it from henceforth. Just turn the TP off, go down to a really low wattage and pulse away. Nods. The vapor production off it is undeniable better at the same settings and builds (apart from the fact that it's spaced vs contact)


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[Woofer]

If you heat the Ni200 as much as most people heat Kanthal it can leach stuff (carbon?) and will reduce the ductility of the wire.

It`s not established that reducing the ductility of the wire has any negative consequence in our application. My 40 & NI200 will be here soon, it`s 200 miles away!!! YAY
My opinion for now is it doesn`t matter at all, I may be back for a helping of crow soon.

 

[KGie]

The thing though, even when I was pulsing my 28ga 3/32 id 14 wraps build at 7 watts (THATS a HUGE amount of mass to heat up with 7 watts) THE MOMENT the coil even starts to remotely glow, the wire changes color significantly. It turns darkish purple. So physically it does indeed undergo some kind of change.

The question really is, if that change is physiologically acceptable for our usage. I have no clue. When I pulse my kanthal, it pretty much changes color too so I guess that kinda allays some of my fear.

So. Yeah. I'm gonna keep doing it from henceforth. Just turn the TP off, go down to a really low wattage and pulse away. Nods. The vapor production off it is undeniable better at the same settings and builds (apart from the fact that it's spaced vs contact)


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Hmmm... weren't most people who were dry burning doing it with TP on, or am I imagining that?

 

[TheKiwi]

Hmmm... weren't most people who were dry burning doing it with TP on, or am I imagining that?

I actually did not try it at all hahah. Apparently with TP, it wouldn't even glow at all. Shrug. I might give it a try once I drain my tank but that's a challenge. Got some new BF ATTIES on my REO so I'm trying to spread out my attention hahaha


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[HolmanGT]

There is nickel in all sorts of stuff including Nichrome Wire and a whole lot of vapor use it and never give the nickel in it a second thought.

If you read the MSDS sheets on Nickel it pretty much spells out possible trouble for people working in the "Nickel Industry", plating, refining, manufacturing, whatever. Now I am not suggesting spending the next ten years working over a pot of boiling nickel but don't you think that Brandon's company and head engineer gave nickel some serious thoughts before selling the concept to the Vaping world. Plus Evolv's goal is to meat FDA specs. If nickel, hot or cold, was any significant health hazard do you really think Evolve would have gone there.

Besides if you watch the Brandon and P.B. Video they mention some potential problems with Nickel and right it off as "in this application it is not a problem and besides nickel is in all kinds of vaping metals" and then just go on like ho-hum. They may have put out some bad boards but then who doesn't i.e. Apple's new folding (bending) iPhone. Evolv may have some problems with there first batch of boards but that doesn't mean they are stupid and dong whatever they can to get nailed by the FDA.

Rant over!!!

 

[jsx821]

Update: Used 28Ga. 13wrap 3.18mm ID (1/8drillbit), resistance 0.24 with wattage set to 20W and 420temp. Made the coils contact by doing light pulse fires at 10W and lightly squeezing them together with some tweezers. And finally temp is floating around low 300F consitently. I'm getting an awesome vape now! TP is only kicking in till I need more juice. 5/64 and 3/32 with 28GA didn't seem to work for me at all. 1/8 is perfect! I kind of rushed the build. Will probably do another one tomorrow to make it look cleaner and drop the ohms to around 0.20 with maybe around 10-11 wraps. Finally got the darn thing working and now I gotta ship it off to Hana to fix the screen glitch

 

[HolmanGT]

If you heat the Ni200 as much as most people heat Kanthal it can leach stuff (carbon?) and will reduce the ductility of the wire.

I am pretty sure that heating metal and letting it cool slowly is called annealing which leaves the wire even more ductile. It is only when you heat a metal and then quench it that is becomes harder.