Official DNA 40 introduction

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350ZMO

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That's great DR. Two questions, one for you, and one for anyone reading this that might have any thoughts/insights/knowledge etc. on the matter..

DR: what atty are you using?

And for anyone that cares to chime in: can anyone think of any reason why a nickel build would be preferable to Ti, other than having to get to know a new tamperature scale. (Which I might not even have to bother with since I'm thinking of starting with Ti and skipping Ni altogether.)

As I've said before I would not use Ti until I heard from Evolv. It's probably ok but I would want to hear from them. Given the much lower temperature coefficient of resistance, I expect the temperature limit to have far less "accuracy". I also expect heat calculations and probably ramp functions to be off. Remember the SW was designed with the TCR of nickel, it has no idea you are using anything else. If it had no effect then nichrome would work as it has even lower TCR at .0004.

Here are some quick google finds on titanium:

Laboratory animals (rats) exposed to titanium dioxide via inhalation have developed small-localized areas of dark-colored dust deposits in the lungs. Excessive exposure in humans may result in slight changes in the lungs. Dust inhalation may cause tightness and pain in chest, coughing, and difficulty in breathing. Contact with skin or eyes may cause irritation. Routes of entry: Inhalation, skin contact, eye contact. When in a metallic powdered form, titanium metal poses a significant fire hazard and, when heated in air, an explosion hazard.

Recently, titanium, used in orthopedic devices and oral implants, considered as an inert material, can induce toxicity or allergic type I or IV reactions. These reactions to titanium could be responsible for unexplained successive failure cases of dental implants in some patients (named "cluster patients"). The risk of an allergy to titanium is increased in patients who are allergic to other metals.

Titanium dioxide is an excellent UV-blocker, but there has been some concern about its safety because in dry powder form, titanium dioxide is highly toxic when inhaled. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies the dry powder form of titanium dioxide as possibly carcinogenic to humans.


Read more: Titanium (Ti) - Chemical properties, Health and Environmental effects

P.S. Because titanium metal is highly reactive and has an extremely high affinity for oxygen, these beneficial surface oxide films form spontaneously and instantly when fresh metal surfaces are exposed to air and/or moisture. In fact, a damaged oxide film can generally reheal itself instantaneously if at least traces of oxygen or water are present in the environment.
 
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DejayRezme

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    The only possible reason is accuracy... The temperature coefficient of resistivity of titanium has a lower alpha than nickel. This is why the temperature scale is thrown off. It changes the scale, but if the accuracy of the nickel is +/- 10 degrees (I think that's the value I heard quoted) then if the alpha is half for titanium then it's going to be +/- 20 degrees. So you're going from a 20 degree deviation to 40 degrees.

    Actually the reduced accuracy should be directly proportional to the difference in temperature setting. So I run at 330°F instead of 440°F(?) so it's about 75%. Additionally the type of titanium / grade / purity might affect the actual scale you have to use. But in the end I would think that the accuracy is not an issue at all if you just tune the temperature for a specific coil to what you like.

    So I'd expect that titanium is about 75% as accurate as nickel. Not 50%.

    Something I posted earlier maybe some of you knowledgable in electronics can chime it: I wonder if it's also possible that the higher total resistance of the titanium coils is actually increasing the accuracy of the temperature measuring. An analog digital converter might be more precise at higher values if they use a linear scale instead of a logarithmic scale.

    PS: I doubt that titanium dioxide will be created at the temperatures we use.
    PPS: Actually it does! "This metal forms a passive but protective oxide coating (leading to corrosion-resistance) when exposed to elevated temperatures in air but at room temperatures it resists tarnishing."

    This might be a good or a bad thing. Good because it might create an insulating layer making contact coils work the same as kanthal. Bad if the titanium oxide can actually flake off.
     
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    Heespharm

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    I just sent in my vapor flask in for rma and my diy box chip for rma now

    Rdna:

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415914612.289409.jpg

    And my brand new out of box xpv

    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415914631.574126.jpg

    I WAS patient... Now I'm angry!

    I mean that certain "percentage" of bad boards must be over 50%... I've got 4 devices from four sources... All are bad


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    TheKiwi

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    I just sent in my vapor flask in for rma and my diy box chip for rma now

    Rdna:

    View attachment 389336

    And my brand new out of box xpv

    View attachment 389337

    I WAS patient... Now I'm angry!

    I mean that certain "percentage" of bad boards must be over 50%... I've got 4 devices from four sources... All are bad


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Wowee dude. I'll never complain about mine ever again.


    Burping out loud using Tapatalk
     

    Heespharm

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    Pretty scary stuff Heespharm - how long from unboxing to failure for these devices? (besides the freshly unboxed XPV - how did that get past QC??)

    It was the third drag... And what a drag it was ;-) but for real they don't have a high failure rate and have switched out all the potentially faulty boards with the new boards from evolv today actually... So I'm getting a new board shipped out tomorrow


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     

    BlueFlyingV

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    I just sent in my vapor flask in for rma and my diy box chip for rma now

    Rdna:

    View attachment 389336

    And my brand new out of box xpv

    View attachment 389337

    I WAS patient... Now I'm angry!

    I mean that certain "percentage" of bad boards must be over 50%... I've got 4 devices from four sources... All are bad


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Yup, my DIY board made it about 6 hours before the screen started glitching. Sent the board back to Evolv and they received it yesterday.

    Should I expect to hear anything from them? shipping notice maybe?
     

    rusirius

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    Yup, my DIY board made it about 6 hours before the screen started glitching. Sent the board back to Evolv and they received it yesterday.

    Should I expect to hear anything from them? shipping notice maybe?
    I think the general consensus is you won't hear anything from them. Just the returned board.
     

    JamieZ4M

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    My chip is pi55ing me off a bit. It's occasionally resetting the Base resistance of my build roughly 0.05ohms higher causing it to run at full 40 watts. It burnt my juice yesterday and has happened a few times today. Resistance seems very consistent then all of a sudden I take a pull and it's HOT! I look down and the Base resistance has changed. Off goes the atty and back on and reset then it's fine.
    At the moment it's more hassle and more frequent than getting dry hits. I'll try another build in my other orchid tomorrow and make sure the 510 and post screws are all tight, but it seems like the resistance pretty much goes from 0.22 to 0.27 every time I get this little quirk.
    Anyone else had this? The chip is not switching in and out of TC mode, it always knows when it's kanthal or nickel.
    Help would be appreciated :)
     

    DejayRezme

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    My chip is pi55ing me off a bit. It's occasionally resetting the Base resistance of my build roughly 0.05ohms higher causing it to run at full 40 watts.

    Sorry, you'll have to hunt down what is causing the shifting base resistance. Either 510 connection, internal atty resistance, post connection to coils or internal wiring. Maybe try a different atty?
     

    dougward1960

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    My chip is pi55ing me off a bit. It's occasionally resetting the Base resistance of my build roughly 0.05ohms higher causing it to run at full 40 watts. It burnt my juice yesterday and has happened a few times today. Resistance seems very consistent then all of a sudden I take a pull and it's HOT! I look down and the Base resistance has changed. Off goes the atty and back on and reset then it's fine.
    At the moment it's more hassle and more frequent than getting dry hits. I'll try another build in my other orchid tomorrow and make sure the 510 and post screws are all tight, but it seems like the resistance pretty much goes from 0.22 to 0.27 every time I get this little quirk.
    Anyone else had this? The chip is not switching in and out of TC mode, it always knows when it's kanthal or nickel.
    Help would be appreciated :)

    my orchid does the same thing not sure what i can do different but i now hit the fire button and if it goes to 38-40 watts i let off and unscrew atty and tell it its new i let it cool down but its a pain to have to keep doing it
     

    JamieZ4M

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    Sorry, you'll have to hunt down what is causing the shifting base resistance. Either 510 connection, internal atty resistance, post connection to coils or internal wiring. Maybe try a different atty?


    my orchid does the same thing not sure what i can do different but i now hit the fire button and if it goes to 38-40 watts i let off and unscrew atty and tell it its new i let it cool down but its a pain to have to keep doing it

    It's just done it again this time reading 0.29 instead of its actual 0.22
    I'm going to try my other orchid tomorrow and a kayfun as well to rule out the orchid design.
    I'm only using 32 gauge ni200 at so was careful tightening the post screw as not to break the coils, that may be an issue.
    If it still does it with the 2 new atties tomorrow, I'll check the ground lead inside the mod, the posi connection should be solid as the fat daddy's spring is quite strong, anyways I'll experiment tomorrow and post the results.
    I did experience an accidental empty tank earlier which was surreal. Vape was getting weak just as though I'd turned the wattage down, not a hint of burning, I thought the chip was playing up in a different way due to the Base resistance issues I had, but then I realised that the temp control was working flawlessly and I'd dried out the tank!
    This has the potential to be and excellent piece of technology for me if I can sort out this bug :s
     

    JamieZ4M

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    Maybe the orchid has internal resistance issues?
    What does that actually mean? I've seen it come up a few times but don't really understand. If there was some resistance in the attie, surely it would be evident all of the time and temp control simply wouldn't work as the resistance wouldn't be following the curve of the ni200 it's calibrated for? But mine works flawlessly for a while, then decides to reset the Base resistance a few hundredths of an ohm higher :'(
    Not criticising you by the way just thinking out loud so to speak :)
     

    peraspera

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    ...I'm only using 32 gauge ni200 at so was careful tightening the post screw as not to break the coils, that may be an issue.
    ...

    I've got some 32 gauge working using the post holes on a Magma but it was tricky as the dickens to get a solid connection without breaking the wire. Try some heavier wire.
     

    dougward1960

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    It's just done it again this time reading 0.29 instead of its actual 0.22
    I'm going to try my other orchid tomorrow and a kayfun as well to rule out the orchid design.
    I'm only using 32 gauge ni200 at so was careful tightening the post screw as not to break the coils, that may be an issue.
    If it still does it with the 2 new atties tomorrow, I'll check the ground lead inside the mod, the posi connection should be solid as the fat daddy's spring is quite strong, anyways I'll experiment tomorrow and post the results.
    I did experience an accidental empty tank earlier which was surreal. Vape was getting weak just as though I'd turned the wattage down, not a hint of burning, I thought the chip was playing up in a different way due to the Base resistance issues I had, but then I realised that the temp control was working flawlessly and I'd dried out the tank!
    This has the potential to be and excellent piece of technology for me if I can sort out this bug :s

    ive been wrapping my coils on the orchid a bit different i put the leads through the holes and then up and around the post screws to help not cutting the ni200 wire. feels tight but obviosly there is a problem and i dont have any other tank attys here atm or id put my kf on it loaned it out to a perspective new vaper maybe two his gf is trying it also good thing i had my flu shot
     
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