Official DNA 40 introduction

[maleasdf]

Been following the thread closely as I had similar freezing issues with Ni200 builds on rDNA40. I am on my second unit from VS that has faulted within hours, a replacement is on the way and hopefully no more issues. A lot of users like me are there who had these problems, but were unable to voice their frustration . I am unsure what causes the issue yet but hope EVOLV fixes this going forward and also for future new releases. Please don't get feel you were unlucky, its just that not many could post here to tell you they were in the same situation.

Apart from all, I would really thank you guys for posting all your experiments. The knowledge gave most of us a really good understanding of new concepts of building and perfecting Ni200 builds. Keep up the good work and know that there is a lot more reading and appreciation of what you guys are doing, other than just the comments here. Thank you one and all.

 

[rusirius]

Is there a way to recognize which version the boards are?

I have no way to know for sure but my ribbon cable connection was different. On my first bad board the entire connection on top was coated with just a few small vias. On my second board the entire top of the ribbon where it connected is flowed.

 

[Frocket]

Dammit kiwi....now you have teased me into twisting wire....I was hoping to avoid that but....newp.

(sent from an alien device which translates English into Klingon without my approval)

I threw a twisted build in my Magma this morning, 30 gauge kanthal/30 gauge nickel. Twisted it up pretty tight and threw 8 wraps around a 2mm screwdriver, came out to 0.13 ohms (dual coil). Mounting the coils and wicking was no problem.

Temp control on this build worked with no problems - settled in around 400°, which is a little less than I'd normally use, but I expected that. I actually expected that I'd need to set it lower, since the kanthal's very minimal change in resistance would significantly alter the temp coefficient of the coils as a whole.

Anyway, no problems with temp control, vapor production and flavor were just what I'd expect from a build like this. The only problem is this build sucks wattage like a black hole. With wet wicks, and coils relatively cool, it was taking all 40 watts and not coming close to burning; it could easily have handled more power. It takes a while for these coils to heat up, and quite a while to cool down. Of course, all that power = faster battery drain.

I've ran the same build with twisted kanthal, instead of hybrid, and it wasn't sucking power quite like this. With straight kanthal twisted, I'd set the wattage around 30-32 watts. Even so, twisted kanthal alone didn't hold the heat as long or heat up the atomizer itself like twisted kanthal/nickel does. My guess is the electricity is following the path of least resistance (nickel), meaning the kanthal isn't doing much electrically. However, I believe the kanthal is acting like a heat sink - a lot of the heat being generated by the nickel is being absorbed by the kanthal, not directly into the wick and juice. IMO, it's not a very efficient coil, too much wasted heat. After firing, the coils continue to steam off vapor for quite a while, and the atty itself was also absorbing a lot of the residual heat.

In my mind, it's not suited for dual coil builds; single coils would probably work better, but would most likely not be as efficient as other builds. As a way to use temp control, though, it works about as well as straight nickel, with the exception of being less efficient.

BOOM!

 

[chebird]

Just wondering what build has worked best for any of you in a Russian 91? My first try resulted in a ni200 coil at .30 ohms and It seems to heat up too fast it always firing down at 6 watts and them temp protect kicks in, I need to try re-wicking as well, as Im not sure if that may be my main problem. Thanks

 

[JamieZ4M]

Just wondering what build has worked best for any of you in a Russian 91? My first try resulted in a ni200 coil at .30 ohms and It seems to heat up too fast it always firing down at 6 watts and them temp protect kicks in, I need to try re-wicking as well, as Im not sure if that may be my main problem. Thanks

Thats one of the main things the dna40 is opening my eyes too. It really instantly tells you how good your wicking is. It's shown me how much potential my orchid has and that I actually needed to use much more cotton which was counter intuitive to me. I use rayon and really pack it tight in the coil and have plenty poking out each side, with just a tiny sliver entering the juice channels, it may work for your build, but on the orchid, I can run 30 watts and get plenty of heat without going near 400 degrees, I had no idea it had that potential until the dna40 showed me lol.

 

[jazzvaper]

Just wondering what build has worked best for any of you in a Russian 91? My first try resulted in a ni200 coil at .30 ohms and It seems to heat up too fast it always firing down at 6 watts and them temp protect kicks in, I need to try re-wicking as well, as Im not sure if that may be my main problem. Thanks

I have been happy with 11 wraps on a 3mm screwdriver, getting 0.16 ohms...450 TP...15-18 watts, Koh Gen Doh.

Expect to build my other (slightly older) R91 with what I do with Kanthal: 3/32 drill bit, 11/12 wraps.

Snazzy!! Black Russian 91 and Vaporshark.

 

[jazzvaper]

//Snipped//
It really instantly tells you how good your wicking is. It's shown me how much potential my orchid has and that I actually needed to use much more cotton which was counter intuitive to me. I use rayon and really pack it tight in the coil and have plenty poking out each side, with just a tiny sliver entering the juice channels, it may work for your build, but on the orchid //snipped//lol.

Tried to build the Orchid last night. A dual 12 wrap on 3/32 bit produced an "ohms too low" error, at 0.09. That became truly dangerous when I moved the Orchid to a mech. Trred that a couple of times...realized the danger, and removed the Orchid from the mech.

I need more practice building Nickel on the Orchid. Single coil not a problem, duallies need a better plan.

 

[WeirdWillie]

Okay first time this happened I thought my dyslexia kicked in so this time I took a picture.

One hit of the fire button it's back to normal.

Another time the display colors inverted blue background with white numbers it was weird.
No complaints on operation though.

 

[dougward1960]

Tried to build the Orchid last night. A dual 12 wrap on 3/32 bit produced an "ohms too low" error, at 0.09. That became truly dangerous when I moved the Orchid to a mech. Trred that a couple of times...realized the danger, and removed the Orchid from the mech.

I need more practice building Nickel on the Orchid. Single coil not a problem, duallies need a better plan.

thats weird yours is saying ohms to low both of my last 2 builds were .09 on an orchid and no otl flashing first was a single coil and now im running a dual coil wrapped with 30g kanthal and 2 strands of 30g ni200 twisted and wick tight but no rayon in juice channels leaked a bit for a second but vaping great as long as i stay inside where its warm

 

[jazzvaper]

//snipped//
but vaping great as long as i stay inside where its warm

According to the site, careorchidshome.com: "They need a minimum temperatures no less than a 9 or 10ºC. The daily temperaturas (sic) should not exceed 30ºC." (86 degrees in Fahrenheit Counties.)

 

[SeniorBoy]

Here is a new one. A screen freeze after an auto-reboot. So apparently you don't even have to fire it to get a frozen screen.

View attachment 390920

Sorry to see that. Assuming you don't have juice/liquid inside your mod what you have described and shown via your pic is a defective board. Evolv can handle the "make good" /RMA for all the vendors and IMHO that would be my own choice to get a rev 3 board (the latest). They have dedicated tecks who handle this issue.

See: Evolv LLC - Contact

And the pdf: http://evolvapor.com/RMA/DNA 40 RMA form.pdf

HTH

 

[dougward1960]

According to the site, careorchidshome.com: "They need a minimum temperatures no less than a 9 or 10ºC. The daily temperaturas (sic) should not exceed 30ºC." (86 degrees in Fahrenheit Counties.)

i think i'll keep my orchid:

 

[Heespharm]

Sorry to see that. Assuming you don't have juice/liquid inside your mod what you have described and shown via your pic is a defective board. Evolv can handle the "make good" /RMA for all the vendors and IMHO that would be my own choice to get a rev 3 board (the latest). They have dedicated tecks who handle this issue.

See: Evolv LLC - Contact

And the pdf: http://evolvapor.com/RMA/DNA 40 RMA form.pdf

HTH

Call vaporshark... Turn around time is very fast... Evolv will take a while


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[DejayRezme]

Okay first time this happened I thought my dyslexia kicked in so this time I took a picture.

One hit of the fire button it's back to normal.

Another time the display colors inverted blue background with white numbers it was weird.
No complaints on operation though.

Weird. Either you have a glitched board or your switches are malfiring maybe? The DNA can switch to left handed mode, inverting the display and I also think black on white mode? Does it have that even? Not sure lol. If there is nothing wrong with your buttons and if there is no juice in your mod / on your chip you should RMA the mod / board since the glitch can become annoying and also lead to different issues. Is it a DIY mod?

 

[JamieZ4M]

Tried to build the Orchid last night. A dual 12 wrap on 3/32 bit produced an "ohms too low" error, at 0.09. That became truly dangerous when I moved the Orchid to a mech. Trred that a couple of times...realized the danger, and removed the Orchid from the mech.

I need more practice building Nickel on the Orchid. Single coil not a problem, duallies need a better plan.

Dual 29 gauge 10 wraps on the little blue screwdriver came out at 0.11.

 

[JohnDoses]

I have a quick and simple question, but first I will admit that I did not ready every post from this forum and my answer may already have been answered. sorry.

Should I buy a DNA40 device right now?

I want to, really bad, if not for the temp control, for the newest chip from Evolv and 10 extra watts. But i have heard mixed reviews, a bunch of bad chips, glitches, etc etc. I have heard everything ranging from this is the best thing ever, to Robert Ellis' latest video completely bashing the DNA 40 and Evolv.

 

[jaxgator]

Okay first time this happened I thought my dyslexia kicked in so this time I took a picture.
View attachment 390984
One hit of the fire button it's back to normal.
View attachment 390985
Another time the display colors inverted blue background with white numbers it was weird.
No complaints on operation though.

Your user name sure fits in this case because well, that's weird Wille.

 

[jaxgator]

I have heard everything ranging from this is the best thing ever, to Robert Ellis' latest video completely bashing the DNA 40 and Evolv.

I just watched Robert's video. That has to be the most uninformative video bashing TP. He goes on and on about how the chip was rushed to market, the beta testers suck, the TP sucks. Really? How so? He never says how so. Hogwash! Apparently, Robert has a hard time grasping new technology. I claim user error.

The 2 working Flasks that I have perform as intended and I enjoy the TP vape very much.

 

[jazzvaper]

Dual 29 gauge 10 wraps on the little blue screwdriver came out at 0.11.

Thanks!!
Went to back to Kanthal. With three tanks and two drippers on Ni200 and only one DNA 40 one more tank doesn't presently make sense. Especially since I will momentarily order the Russian 2.0.

(The tiny build area of the Orchid doesn't help.)

 

[rusirius]

I have a quick and simple question, but first I will admit that I did not ready every post from this forum and my answer may already have been answered. sorry.

Should I buy a DNA40 device right now?

I want to, really bad, if not for the temp control, for the newest chip from Evolv and 10 extra watts. But i have heard mixed reviews, a bunch of bad chips, glitches, etc etc. I have heard everything ranging from this is the best thing ever, to Robert Ellis' latest video completely bashing the DNA 40 and Evolv.

If you can get a working board then it's a no brainer. The DNA40 is one of the best purchases for vaping I've ever made. It truly is a wonderful thing. If you're buying new stock of a pre-made device I'd think they would all be on the latest chip now. If you plan on buying a board by itself and making the mod, then I'd verify that whomever you're purchasing from has the latest v3 board in stock and not old stock to eliminate any chance of you getting a bad one. I'd think that by now most of everything being shipped is v3.