KTM,
OK - Who do you know inside Evolv? You always seem to know the current version of their boards. Heck I don't even know the version of the board I own. Is there any way to determine the Version number without destroying the VaporFlask?
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KTM,
OK - Who do you know inside Evolv? You always seem to know the current version of their boards. Heck I don't even know the version of the board I own. Is there any way to determine the Version number without destroying the VaporFlask?
That's usually a bad connection somewhere... 510 positive pin, post screws not being tight... Atty not screwed down all the way
That's a little unsettling. So the ver3 boards are now going to be put in. What about those,(mine) that were shipped with ver2? Wait and hope nothing goes wrong before the warranty expires?
I've had the flipping in and out of TP-watts, I think I've traced it back to an atty connection issue. But if its a connection issue, why don't I get a "check atomizer"?
Thank you waterdog, I'm wondering if its because I'm going from a nickel build to a kanthal build when I change attys!!
Just got the prompt after I refilled the erlk!! Thanks for the help fellas!!
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On the topic of chip versions, has there been any info about a Celsius version? Not that I want one now since it's an arbitrary temperature scale anyway.
It can take a second or two to drop out of temp mode or go back in depending on your build. The board issues were for nickel builds so you might want to just use those builds for a day or so to make sure you sre not seeing anything strange going on. Best of luck
Also nickel builds are far harder then kanthal builds to get perfect. It sure will be nice when people can buy pre made heads with temp sensing nickel in them. Sounds like aspire and kanger should have them out soon. That way you can see if it is your build or your device that is acting up.
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What I don't understand is why they didn't have both options right away. Wouldn't it be much easier for them and us?
Even a cheap caliper can change from inches to cm so why not this high end device?
Guess I'll have to go with a conversion table in my pocket to figure out if 330F is hot or cold
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
Even a cheap caliper can change from inches to cm so why not this high end device?
Guess I'll have to go with a conversion table in my pocket to figure out if 330F is hot or cold
Regards
Tony
Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk
They've been out of stock forever and they had an estimated 13 week ship time. Good to see they're back in stock.
Heh. I don't know anyone there. Just stuff I've read online from various sources. I don't even have one yet so I can't tell you how to check for the version.
That's a little unsettling. So the ver3 boards are now going to be put in. What about those,(mine) that were shipped with ver2? Wait and hope nothing goes wrong before the warranty expires?
I've had the flipping in and out of TP-watts, I think I've traced it back to an atty connection issue. But if its a connection issue, why don't I get a "check atomizer"?
I should get my rDNA 40 tomorrow so most likely it'll be a v1 or v2 board. I'm not too worried because Evolv has been really good about replacements on any mod with their boards. I'm sure they'll take care of you if the manufacturer doesn't.
Sorry, haven't seen anything about the Celsius verison yet.
Not to sidetrack, but how are you liking the performance with the vertical coil?
i see your coil wires appear to go through 2 holes how are they attached
I saw this today, and Im sure there is discussion about it further back, but I couldn't find it. Can anyone point me to that? Is Titanium wire working with TP? if so where do we get it?
You are mistaken. The RP on a one-battery mod is different from what the issue is on a 1S2P mod like the Flask. The Flask does protect against RP similar to those mods.
I'm not sure I understand your question.
How are the wires attached to their terminals? -- By the Grub Screws as they meant to be attached by the manufacturer.
How are the Flat Ribbon wires attached to Round Pure Nickel wire leads? -- They are spark welded NR-R-NR
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Quick update. Used my 30ga kanthal and 30ga ni200.
Here's the build. 9 wraps around 3/32. Deliberately done to copy my previous build with 28ga NI instead
Came up to 0.51 ohm
After juicing and wicking it dropped to 0.34 on ohm meter, 0.33 on my rdna40
First round of vaping settings are at: 17 watts, 450F. Horrendous vape. Wattage surged to 39.9 W for 2 secs, super loud crackling, but poor vapor production.
Observed that temperature hovers and stops at around 290F. This is compared to the 28ga Ni + 30ga kanthal build which hovered around 390F. Overall it was just a very bad vape.
Second round: tuned TP down to 330F, still at 17W. Wattage spikes up to 22W for 1 sec and throttles down to 17 W. Temperature still hovers around 290F.
Here's the kicker: super good vapor production, flavor and everything is awesome.
Currently vaping at 22W, temp peaks at 310 and holds stable.
Conclusion: no bloody idea hahahahahahahaha
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
Here's the build. 9 wraps around 3/32. Deliberately done to copy my previous build with 28ga NI instead
Came up to 0.51 ohm
After juicing and wicking it dropped to 0.34 on ohm meter, 0.33 on my rdna40
First round of vaping settings are at: 17 watts, 450F. Horrendous vape. Wattage surged to 39.9 W for 2 secs, super loud crackling, but poor vapor production.
Observed that temperature hovers and stops at around 290F. This is compared to the 28ga Ni + 30ga kanthal build which hovered around 390F. Overall it was just a very bad vape.
Second round: tuned TP down to 330F, still at 17W. Wattage spikes up to 22W for 1 sec and throttles down to 17 W. Temperature still hovers around 290F.
Here's the kicker: super good vapor production, flavor and everything is awesome.
Currently vaping at 22W, temp peaks at 310 and holds stable.
Conclusion: no bloody idea hahahahahahahaha
Burping out loud using Tapatalk
I saw this today, and Im sure there is discussion about it further back, but I couldn't find it. Can anyone point me to that? Is Titanium wire working with TP? if so where do we get it?
Yes it works great for TP. You have to set the temp to about 75% of what you would set for nickel.
Can't tell you where you can get titanium wire in the US. I got it from zivipf.com (europe). Grade 1-4 should be pure and suitable. If you find a source link it here to let others know.
I'm not sure I understand your question.
How are the wires attached to their terminals? -- By the Grub Screws as they meant to be attached by the manufacturer.
How are the Flat Ribbon wires attached to Round Pure Nickel wire leads? -- They are spark welded NR-R-NR
i guess you answered my question as i said i see your coil wires go into holes but you didnt show the other side but i think i get it now. a picture of the bottom side where the grub screws are was what might have helped but i got it now thanks
24 gauge Ti on Amazon.com
30 gauge Ti from Rio Grande
That's all I've found in the US. If I was only going to get one, I'd get the 30 gauge; you can do more with it, like twisting together 2-3 strands if you like. It's the anti-nickel. I think it's a bit more springy than Kanthal, but not awful. Don't torch it and don't dry-burn it except in temp-controlled mode or at really low wattage.
FWIW, I've also tried stainless steel and ESG's titanium alloy. My DNA won't consistently stay in temp mode with either of them and when it does, 200F is hotter than I'd really like.
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