Official DNA 40 introduction

[HolmanGT]

Awwww shucks...

A little trick I learned when dealing with large surface area coils in air flow setups that have small air holes compared to coil size like the fogger, orchid, etc. Spacing the coil further away can help, but for the best results I've found making a V in the coil helps tremendously. Make the long coil, bend it in half into a V and then wick it, our depending on setup, wick it first then bend it. Keeps the coils more verticle over the air holes and really smoothes things out.

Thanks, I will give that a try. One of my biggest problems with the Fogger is I can usually get the coil in but then the wick protrudes so far that it gets mangled when I screw on the chimney. The "V" scheme sounds like it may solve a lot of my problems.

I'll throw out one tip, (I know you guys already now about it) last night I used some jewelry crimps (sterling silver) so I could tighten down the wire screws to hold the Ni200 without cutting it off. I actually worked, I am so proud of myself (pat on the back). I used 3mm (L) x 1.5mm (OD) with 1.1mm (ID) and you can purchase them on-line from almost any jewelry hobby supply shop/house.

 

[rusirius]

Thanks, I will give that a try. One of my biggest problems with the Fogger is I can usually get the coil in but then the wick protrudes so far that it gets mangled when I screw on the chimney. The "V" scheme sounds like it may solve a lot of my problems.

I'll throw out one tip, (I know you guys already now about it) last night I used some jewelry crimps (sterling silver) so I could tighten down the wire screws to hold the Ni200 without cutting it off. I actually worked, I am so proud of myself (pat on the back). I used 3mm (L) x 1.5mm (OD) with 1.1mm (ID) and you can purchase them on-line from almost any jewelry hobby supply shop/house.

It's a bit different with rayon, but when I wick my fogger I stuff the coil, but then cut almost all of it off just past the coil. I leave only a very very small wisp of it to extend down into the channel. Very very thin and small. By all rights it looks like it should leak like a sieve, but it doesn't and it wicks like a mad man. 35+ watts with no problem at all.

 

[HolmanGT]

It's a bit different with rayon, but when I wick my fogger I stuff the coil, but then cut almost all of it off just past the coil. I leave only a very very small wisp of it to extend down into the channel. Very very thin and small. By all rights it looks like it should leak like a sieve, but it doesn't and it wicks like a mad man. 35+ watts with no problem at all.

rusirius,

I'll will also give that a try. I know that the wicking ability of Rayon is almost magical. I had heard the thinning the tails out thing and had a real hard time buying into to it. But once you see it works and actually even seems to wick better... well ya just take a deep breath and go with it.

 

[KTMRider]

Hahaha yeah. For many of us, transitioning to Ni200 builds have been a journey of trial and (waaaay more) errors to figure out what works. I've ripped apart God knows how many builds as it is haha. But I'm glad we are slowly figuring everything out!


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I've only built one coil with Ni200 so far because I'm learning from your mistakes

 

[MidwestGuy]

Boy can I identify with the re-re-builds. Before I got my V.F. I ordered 32, 30 and 28 Ga Ni200 100' foot spools and I am about ready to order some to replenish my stock. My Kanthal after a year and a half is still in ample supply from my original puchase. I don't think with Kanthal I had to just rip it out and start over actually just standard re-builds when they got gunky. Actually the Kanthal was good for my ego, wish I could say that for Ni200.

This Ni200 gives a whole new meaning to "Old Dogs and New Tricks".

Just think how good we (should) be now with kanthal builds! I'll bet all of us who have been experimenting with Ni200 over the last month have built enough experience with these Ni200 builds that we could build a perfect kanthal coil for any device in any configuration blindfolded using nothing but our toes!

 

[dr g]

Just think how good we (should) be now with kanthal builds! I'll bet all of us who have been experimenting with Ni200 over the last month have built enough experience with these Ni200 builds that we could build a perfect kanthal coil for any device in any configuration blindfolded using nothing but our toes!

but why would you want to use kanthal ever again?

 

[KTMRider]

but why would you want to use kanthal ever again?

Some of us still have non-DNA 40 mods.

 

[TheKiwi]

I actually really enjoy using kanthal builds on my dna40 devices tbh


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[dr g]

Some of us still have non-DNA 40 mods.

So does just about everyone, but why would you want to use them?
I don't even use my other DNAs anymore lol

 

[KTMRider]

So does just about everyone, but why would you want to use them?
I don't even use my other DNAs anymore lol

Hopefully I'll have a few more DNA 40 mods soon. I bought a bunch of Hana clones to upgrade. 5 ordered and only 1 has been delivered. I just checked and Elev8Vape sent out my 3 enclosures by 1-day priority mail. I should have them Friday.

 

[DejayRezme]

About the even heat: I actually dry burn my titanium dual coils on my magma by keeping one of the coils in a stream of water while firing. The other one will get about twice as hot and start to glow. Rinse repeat (Haha literal pun!).

I'll throw out one tip, (I know you guys already now about it) last night I used some jewelry crimps (sterling silver) so I could tighten down the wire screws to hold the Ni200 without cutting it off. I actually worked, I am so proud of myself (pat on the back). I used 3mm (L) x 1.5mm (OD) with 1.1mm (ID) and you can purchase them on-line from almost any jewelry hobby supply shop/house.

Please post some pictures, I have a hard time picturing how you actually use them? Do you just stuff them into the post hole and the coil legs though the crimp?

 

[dwcraig1]

I just ventured into dripperland with Ni200, Magma, dual twisted 32 NR @ .1Ω, 450f/30 watts, the mildest big cloud ever. Not the biggest but the mildest (it was big too)

 

[JohnDoses]

...Don't mind me, just living vicariously through all the DNA 40 owners and lurking this thread on a daily basis, learning, judging, dreaming, because I know with my luck and my impatience, if I buy a DNA 40 device it will be a bad one, and it will be sent back, and it will get lost in the mail or something crazy because that type of stuff always happens to me and it will be about a month before I can actually use my device, so I have decided to wait it out, lurk on this thread and drown in my tears of jealousy...Don't mind me, carry on.

 

[tchavei]

Oh I'm going to do something similar... Watching three stores here that have the chip in Stock and actually hoping they become unavailable and then available again just to be 100% sure, they are the latest version... Lol.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

 

[JohnDoses]

Oh I'm going to do something similar... Watching three stores here that have the chip in Stock and actually hoping they become unavailable and then available again just to be 100% sure, they are the latest version... Lol.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

I talked with VaporShark yesterday and one of their support guys said that they do not have any of the V3 chips yet and do not know when they will start using in their devices...bummer.

 

[KTMRider]

Oh I'm going to do something similar... Watching three stores here that have the chip in Stock and actually hoping they become unavailable and then available again just to be 100% sure, they are the latest version... Lol.

Regards
Tony

Sent from my GT-I9195 through Tapatalk

At this point, I'm sure Evolv has recalled/replaced all the DNA 40D boards for sale with the latest updated boards. My rDNA 40 is working great. Wireless charging is awesome. When I take a break from vaping, I throw it down on my Tylt Vu and it's charging. I should sell off all my other mods and buy another rDNA 40

 

[KTMRider]

I talked with VaporShark yesterday and one of their support guys said that they do not have any of the V3 chips yet and do not know when they will start using in their devices...bummer.

That's a different response from these two...

Extract of my conversation with VaporShark:

Qorax, Wed, Nov 26, few hrs ago: Hi F, will the rDNA40s go out this Monday, Dec-1st, with the DNA40 “v3" board? ...didn't want to get into the horror of RMA scenario! Tnx.

F, VaporShark, Wed, Nov 26, few hrs ago: Hello Q, the term "version 3" really means nothing in the grand scheme of things... Yes, there have been some firmware upgrades which could be confused with "version 3"... But the fact is 5-10% of these boards were faulty. Evolv is now severely checking the chips before they ship and we are rechecking ourselves too before assembling them. If a few slip through the crack, we will get it swapped out for any customer as fast as possible. Btw, yes our current assembly line is loading the updated DNA40 chips. TC.

my reply from VaporShark 11/26: "We have received several faulty boards but we are testing every unit prior to shipping them out. Some can slip through the cracks as they done show the defect after hours of use but In the case that you receive a faulty board we will pay for the shipping back to us and send a new device out as soon as we receive the faulty one."

p.s. I'm ordering on Monday...

 

[jaxgator]

Lol, I keep 0mg around for build testing, etc.

If you're like me you'll find that the vape is 100 percent consistent from start to finish. You'll also find that changing the tp by 10 or 20 degrees can make a big difference in the flavor and vapor produced.

After you settle in a temp if the tp keeps kicking in then you can start bumping the wattage down till it doesn't. The way the dna40 is designed it doesn't show the message just because it hits your temp, it only shows it when it has to drop the wattage way below the set wattage for a longer period of time. So if I build something that I find runs at my tp by kicking out say 30w when my power is set to 40, then I set the wattage to say 35w or maybe a little less depending on build, airflow, etc. That keeps the tp message from becoming annoying, yet it'll start to show up if my wicks are getting dry, etc. Because then it has to regulate the wattage down much lower than the normal 30w.

Right there with you bud. Exactly what I've been doing. It's actually a delicate balance. We're all new to it and it's a learning curve. Slowly but surely, I am getting it. And it is definitely an awesome vape when you dial it in.

 

[zinc]

ni200 + kfl + dna40 just wasnt meant to be

nickel and the squape r seem to work much better, must be the extra airflow

 

[KTMRider]

ni200 + kfl + dna40 just wasnt meant to be

nickel and the squape r seem to work much better, must be the extra airflow

I've been vaping all day on a KFL+ with Ni200 just fine. Pretty awesome, actually.