HEEHEEHEE both my rDNA have been flawless so there's that. And 2 of my flasks [emoji51][emoji51][emoji51]
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Why, 0.68 ohms is 0.68 ohms that alone tells nothing about the coil material.
You can always turn off temp limiting if you wish.
My main issue is the battery level. Not too concerned that it keeps going to temp limiting initially with a kanthal build I just figured the chip would be able to tell. I had it thinking it was a kanthal build when it was nickel and it fried the coil/wick but that was only one time
I hear complaints about the bat meter but it is not something I have seen on my units.
Evolv states the meter shows the amount of battery left while firing at the wattage used when you release the button.
I expect if the watts are all over the map the bat meter will be too.
The board can tell but it needs to fire and see what the resistance is doing to know.
The dna checks coil resistance 100 times a sec.
Unstable connections can mess with it and us.
I'm not sure how "it thinking it was a kanthal build when it was nickel" would fry the coil/wick.
In fact if anything, the opposite should be true.
It will only fire the watts you have it set for.*
[*] pre heat in temp mode does fire over set wattage for 1 second or until 100 degrees under the temp limit, whichever comes first.
Good luck.
I've also never had a problem with the battery meter on any of my devices. They initially read low when "waking up" ... but after the first fire, seem to adjust to a more realistic level.
That's interesting, I actually tried varying the wattage on one of my units from 10W to 40W (and fired it) to see if the battery indication would change at all, and it didn't. If other people try this and it does change, then my unit is faulty.
I think PBusardo said in one of his 2-part DNA 40 reviews that Evolv admits the battery indicator needs fixing.
That's interesting too, the only time I ever got a number of battery bars proportional to battery voltage was upon wake-up when the Evolv DNA 40 message is displayed. Sounds like the exact opposite of yours.
Sounds like bad battery contact if anything.
What the other two report is the proper behavior and what I get on all my mods as well.
In the 10 to 40 watt test, you have to be "on the scale" for it to register a difference as it is reading loaded voltage under 3.8.
If the battery contact is good enough to fire 40W without a "weak battery" message, then I would think it good enough to power the board to only display the battery voltage without firing.
Both my units behaved the same. What is "on the scale"?
Both my units behaved the same. What is "on the scale"?
on the part of the charge that reflects on the battery meter. about 3.8v loaded and under
this board behaves similar to previous dna boards, if you lower the wattage when it's metering, the meter rises. so with a dna30 if you ran out of battery at 30w you could turn it down to say 15w and vape some more.
Just chiming in to say that my VS rDNA 40 works absolutely perfectly.
Mine was from the pre-order and shipped in the second shipping wave.
Just say'n to help dispel the fact that that they were all crappy.
RC
Mine was from the pre-order and shipped in the second shipping wave.
Just say'n to help dispel the fact that that they were all crappy.
RC
I got 6 in the first round co-op, installed 3 in Tibs boxes. Two have glitched of those 3, and one of the glitches was with a dual coil, 0.8 ohm Kanthal build, locked in at a much higher wattage than I set. I decided then I'd wait for the 2nd round chips, replace all 3, then send all of them back for replacement. I don't have the time to deal with finding the glitches days or weeks after building the mods.
I feel like you are trying to tell me what I saw didn't really happen...I saw glowing nickel coil while this device was showing volts on the screen not temperature.
I'm over this thread. Too much b.s.
Don't let someone hurt your feelings. I believe you. That problem exists with poor connection to the atty either through the positive or ground. I've been there and done that. Very nasty taste. When it gets out of temp mode the ni200 coil with still fluctuate in resistance. All dna boards will constantly adjust the voltage to match the resistance for the wattage setting that you set it at, even while firing. The problem is that the ni200 will fluctuate in resistance so much more than kanthal and the voltage will skyrocket when in voltage mode. Your best bet is to figure out how to get back in temp mode. You might need to get a different atty.
I was going to ignore this, having installed a Kuro Coil, 8 wraps, 28g, 0.14, coil on the Lemo Drop (love it!) last night, holding firm throughout today, 8 hours.
But, I just took delivery of another Kayfun 4. Noticing a coil I also wrapped last night: 0.17. Slapped on to the K4 deck, measured on the him reader (0.18), filled, and vaped. Whether this last will hold up as its younger brother is yet to be seen.
What is remarkable is that I can get a lower temperature and higher wattage before hitting TP. 18 watts, (hits) 270F, 7 second pull...no TP. 26 watts, (hits) 280F, 8 second pull...no TP. 30watts, (hits) 277, 8 second pull...no TP. 35 watts, (hits) 390, 7 second pull...no TP. 40 watts, (hits) 390, very, very long pull...no TP. K4 did get pretty hot.
In all cases VF temperature setting was at 390F.
ETA: The VS doesn't do as well. Requires higher temperature setting (F),but can handle higher wattage.
I may return to this post a time or two more:
1. This second coil, on day two, used on either the VF or VS, is amazing. It has "refined" to 0.16 ohms, and remains consistent.
2. It will handle temperatures down to 300F on the VF (up to 20 watts, good flavor, plenty of vapor), or, 330 on the VS (16 watts, good flavor, decent vapor). I had never gone below 380/390F.
HYPOTHESIS: Such coiling can make vaping safer still. Or, stated slightly differently, the DNA 40 default of 450 may be substantially higher than required.
Jazz,
I haven't been following this Kuro Coil thread but by Kuro Coil do you just me a contact coil built on a Kuro coiler?
I don't doubt what your are saying at all. I am just curious because what you are saying makes me want to give it a try.
Anything that produces lower temperatures and the same volume of vapor has to be a GOOD thing.
Yes, I mean a "contact coil" made with Kuro.
When I went to rewick one wrap, on the end, was very slightly spaced, so I gently compressed it with a tweezer (not a needle node plier). As mentioned, I intend to follow up. Another brave "experimenter" couldn't hurt.
When I went to rewick one wrap, on the end, was very slightly spaced, so I gently compressed it with a tweezer (not a needle node plier). As mentioned, I intend to follow up. Another brave "experimenter" couldn't hurt.
I suspect the temperature is off because of the contact coil. The resistance isn't changing at the rate it's supposed to, so the board THINKS it's 300 degrees when it's actually a lot higher than that.
There is no miracle coil that's going to make juice vaporize at a lower temperature...but then again, see sig
There is no miracle coil that's going to make juice vaporize at a lower temperature...but then again, see sig
Oh well....
In the beginning I attempted to make the distinction between spaced, compressed, and, contact coils. No one acknowledged.
Recently, Woofer criticized a coil made by Qorax as not]/b] contact. It did appeared, to me, to be "compressed". My sense is that the Kuro makes compressed coils.
The point stands: if Evolv based its default by excluding one type of coil then the default is [fill in the blank].
Arguing the contrary, without data, is [fill in the blank].
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