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Oh well....
In the beginning I attempted to make the distinction between spaced, compressed, and, contact coils. No one acknowledged.
Recently, Woofer criticized a coil made by Qorax as not]/b] contact. It did appeared, to me, to be "compressed". My sense is that the Kuro makes compressed coils.
The point stands: if Evolv based its default by excluding one type of coil then the default is [fill in the blank].
Arguing the contrary, without data, is [fill in the blank].
haha, this made me chuckle!
I'm pretty sure Qorax did try a compressed nickel coil, and like you, it worked well for a day or two, then went all to hell.
edit: I think Rossum was using compressed titanium coils a while back. I wonder how that worked out?
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Not at all, just trying to get to the bottom of whatever is going on and help out.
I will refrain from further interaction with you.
And, I was the person who suggested he go to "spaced".
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Coils or jazz both are better with space.
Tell that to John Coltrane.
Okay, you can't "tell him". Pretend.
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The battery meter bar on previous DNA models was actually showing a projected battery life expectation (based on residual charge, atom resistance and wattage, IIRC), more than just an assessment of the current battery residual charge.
In this respect, the algorithm may be a bit off and needing better calibration parameters now, TC capabilities may have messed it up some..
In this respect, the algorithm may be a bit off and needing better calibration parameters now, TC capabilities may have messed it up some..
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The only time I tried compressing titanium coils was during some of my initial experiments with it last summer, well before the DNA40 was released. Based on those experiments, i concluded that pure titanium was not a good coil material for the mods available at that time. However, I did notice the temperature coefficient of titanium then, and when the DNA40 became available, I decided to try it again due to various issues with nickel. I've been using titanium coils on my 40 ever since, but those coils are not compressed. They are typically 3 strands of 30 gauge twisted together with a bit of space between the coils, like this:
When I first got my Flask, in the beginning, all I built was contact coils because that's all I ever built with Kanthal. It was really hit or miss, but mostly miss. When I started doing spaced coils, I almost gave up nickel because if I used 28ga the coils ended up being to Big to fit in any of my attis and 30ga was too flimsy. I didn't have much luck with twisted nickel either. I would always end up with hot spots or some other issues. I've said this before in other threads here, what's made nickel builds so stable and repeatable for me has been using tempered nickel. I can now keep my spaced builds small by using 30ga and not worry about destroying the build when I wick it. Using tempered over annealed is night and day for me. Building with nickel is no longer frustrating, it just works like Kanthal now.
One thing I can't do is keep my temp in the low 300s like some can. For the most part I keep my temp between 420 and 450deg at the watts I like to run, and that seems to be my sweet spot. I've noticed if I changes batteries and don't wait long enough before I put my atti back on after vaping for a while, my resistance will be a few points higher than it actually should be, and then I notice my temperature will run in the low 300s. But as soon as it refines back to the resistance it should be, it goes right back to the low 400s.
One thing I can't do is keep my temp in the low 300s like some can. For the most part I keep my temp between 420 and 450deg at the watts I like to run, and that seems to be my sweet spot. I've noticed if I changes batteries and don't wait long enough before I put my atti back on after vaping for a while, my resistance will be a few points higher than it actually should be, and then I notice my temperature will run in the low 300s. But as soon as it refines back to the resistance it should be, it goes right back to the low 400s.
Im surprised there are actually people running their builds at 300s.
If it makes you feel better, many of us here run it in the 400s
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If it makes you feel better, many of us here run it in the 400s
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That surprised me too. And yes, it does make me feel better.
I personally run mine at 430F.
In any case, there's a chance that you saw people running at 300ish because they were either using titanium wire, or Ni200/Kanthal hybrid wires, which requires some calibration to the 300 range to achieve an actual 400+ degree if that makes sense
ETA: figured I'll post here too
Using 30 Ni200 and VAPING at 30 watts, 430F
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Latest nickel build: 2 x 30awg x 3mm @ 30watts/440degrees, and of course, Rayon.
The only time I tried compressing titanium coils was during some of my initial experiments with it last summer, well before the DNA40 was released. Based on those experiments, i concluded that pure titanium was not a good coil material for the mods available at that time. However, I did notice the temperature coefficient of titanium then, and when the DNA40 became available, I decided to try it again due to various issues with nickel. I've been using titanium coils on my 40 ever since, but those coils are not compressed. They are typically 3 strands of 30 gauge twisted together with a bit of space between the coils, like this:
Quoted because prettiest coil pic recently
How does that coil perform with regards to heat-up/cool-down time? I've been trying to go with less mass to keep the gunking to a minimum, but the thinner Ni coils just don't taste so great.
note to self: buy titanium wire
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That was an early coil and had a pretty big ID. I don't remember the exact ID, sorry. I think it came out to 0.44 ohms or thereabouts, meaning there's a fair amount of metal there. For the last 3-4 months, I've been using the same 3x30 twist on 2mm ID and it comes out to around 0.25 ohms, so correspondingly less mass. I don't get much gunking, but I run a pretty clean juice in that setup.
The r91 is the one atty I could never get to work with Ni200 . I've since given up on it
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