Official Fogger V6.0 thread!

[suprtrkr]

My Yi-Loong branded V6 dropped out of the sky by vape mail today. I'm not going to have time to build it until tomorrow at the earliest, but it is higher quality than the clone I ordered first. I will still want to do something to fill the overdrill in the negative posts to make cutting wires less likely, and I may decide to bore out the air holes a bit as well, but I'll want to vape a tank or two to see if I really want to.

 

[suprtrkr]

Finally got around to building my building my Yi Loong today. I wanted to make Clapton wire to coil it and the small diameter stuff didn't get here until yesterday. I build it with dual 28/32 Claptons, totaling .5 Ohm exactly, and wicked it with organic cotton, my cellulose wick not having gotten here yet. I don't think I got enough wick in the juice channels. When I filled the tank, the vape chamber and chimney filled right up too, all the say to the top of the tank. If this had been a submarine movie, we'd have worn out the klaxon from all the flooding. Nice thing about top fill, though: I just stuck a needle down the hole and sucked most of the juice out of it again. I normally wick a Fogger but cutting the cotton tail lengthwise, leaving enough volume to fill the juice channel, but not stuff it, and then tuck as much of the rest back up on the deck as will fit without closing off the air hole. So, I had plenty of tail left, I just pulled it back down and packed it in the channel. It does not now appear to be leaking I filled it half way with the air holes open to see if it was gonna flood again, and left it for 5 minutes. Seems to be fairly tight, so I filled it the rest of the way, put the top on and stood it upside down on a paper towel to drain. No leaking so far. As soon as I clean up the mess from the leak-- my mod is soaked-- I will try to vape it and see if I get any dry hits, meaning I wicked too heavily this time. Back with more details soon.

 

[awsum140]

I never build or fill on my mod, top fill or not. I'm a slob so it makes it easier to keep things clean.

I've never used cotton but use rayon on everything. Rayon is different than cotton and the tails need to be thin. I usually do an initial trim of 50% of the tails with it dry, then wet the wicks, shape and place the, gently, into the channels trimming as necessary. Every time I do it I think I've over trimmed them but usually end up trimming a little more after the first tank. The only time I've ever had a leak is on my ErlK clone and that thing is a PITA in that department.

 

[suprtrkr]

I never build or fill on my mod, top fill or not. I'm a slob so it makes it easier to keep things clean.

I've never used cotton but use rayon on everything. Rayon is different than cotton and the tails need to be thin. I usually do an initial trim of 50% of the tails with it dry, then wet the wicks, shape and place the, gently, into the channels trimming as necessary. Every time I do it I think I've over trimmed them but usually end up trimming a little more after the first tank. The only time I've ever had a leak is on my ErlK clone and that thing is a PITA in that department.

Ok, 20 minutes later. I have the mess cleaned up. The tank does not appear to be leaking, and blowing in the drip tip doesn't bring any juice drops out of the air holes. I must've done it close to right this time. I have been vaping it for 15 minutes now, hard enough my head is spinning from the extra nic and no dry hits yet. I'm getting air bubbles up the side of the tank, so it has to be wicking some anyway. Odd-- my V4s like to burp out one big bubble, but this one likes a chain of 4 or 5 small ones.Vapor production and flavor are excellent, and I like the top fill system, albeit the O-ring can be hard to remove without a tool of some kind. No problem, really, I have tools at my vape station, and I use the U-Can to fill on the road so the needle applicator would work for that. I'm a bit concerned: I am also vaping a new Lemo2 today and it hits about as hard as this Fogger; also has a sweet top-fill system; a manly, blocky look; costs no more; comes out of the box with a PEEK insulator; and is the only tank I have ever had I had to close down the air supply a bit to get the right vapor/air mix (I'm usually boring things out). This is causing my dual-coil faith to waver a bit I remain a skosh unsure about the glass drip tip. I'm not used to being able to see the condensation on the inside of the tube, and I wonder if it's going to chip when I (inevitably) knock it over. This won't be a problem, of course. I can take a V4-style stainless drip tip and put on it.

Awsum: You talked up the rayon wick so much I ordered some immediately after our last conversation. Vape mail has not yet brought it to me, but I am eagerly anticipating having it to give it a whirl. I wonder, however,if you have seen this thread; it's about a composite style wick system. The guy is using Vaper's Choice long-staple cotton as the outer layer, and the Egyptian short-staple cotton as the inner core. The long-staple cotton wicks better, and the short-staple cotton holds more juice. He tried it and says he loves it. I liked that idea so much I ordered some Egyptian short-staple today as well. I am looking forward to giving that a try, and trying a different composite using the rayon as the outer.

 

[awsum140]

I haven't looked at that thread at all. To be honest, I'm very happy with rayon and have enough, in stock (500' box of Graham), for the next century. I did try cotton, once, and didn't like the flavor of the cotton. I know it "breaks in" and goes away, but with rayon I've only ever tasted my liquids from the first hit. It rinses clean, pure white, even if the coil is an unrecognizable lump of gunk. It does shrink when it gets wet so you need more than would be appropriate for cotton.

I ordered a Flash E-Vapor to give that a try. Single coil but highly recommended over in the rayon thread and it can be used as a tank or a dripper. I hesitated before ordering and hit the holidays over in China, so I haven't even gotten shipping notification on it. I have another guy, in Australia, who's sending me some rayon made from bamboo fibers that's supposed to be better than Graham. That will be interesting to fool with as well.

 

[suprtrkr]

Fogger V6 mod today complete. I started on my clone in case I screwed it up, but I'll do the YiLoong next.
1) removed the base screw/center post assembly.
2) disassembled upper and lower base
3) bored air holes in deck 3mm on upper base; deburred
4) bored all 6 air holes in lower base 2mm, deburred
5) reassembled upper and lower base
6) put piece of 1/16" stainless model shafting in each of the neg posts till it bottomed, marked with a sharpie at bottom of wire hole, removed and cut off with Dremel wheel, ground ends smooth. This fills the base of the posts below the wire holes to stop breaking wires when tightening the screw.
7) reinstalled center post/base screw
8) repeated 6 with the two holes in the center post
9) reassembled tank, leaving the rinky-dink air flow adjustment ring off completely.

She breathes about as well as my Lemo 2s now

 

[suprtrkr]

Ok, And I did the YiLoong too. It's about the same. I like it. Won't have time to coil them up today, but I am looking forward to a side by side test with the Lemos.

 

[addicted behavior]

Probably on old thread hear, But I to have had the unfortunate problem with the crappy negative posts on the V-6. having snapped both of during the same build. After reading through this thread, i found the fix to be amazingly simple..What i did to firmly attach my negative posts is to drill out the little divot on the deck where to post was. I used a 1/16 drill bit as it fit exactly snug in the bottom of the post. If you drill it down far enough you will find there is a hollow space further down, so drill it down as far as you can. Next i found two screws that were medium coarse threaded, and were just a smidgen bigger than will fit inside of the post. Screw the screws tightly into the hole that was drilled. Measure where the bottom of the post hole will be and cut the screw off there with a Dremel tool. Then take the broken post and screw it on the screw on the deck. be careful not to over screw it. I did that to both negative post that have broken off, and they seem to be holding up well. An idea to try for a truly permanent fix would be to insert small amounts of silver solder into the hole of the deck before putting in the screw, and also adding some silver solder through the top of the post after it has been screwed on to the deck. Take a torch and heat up the post to melt the silver solder. If my post fail on me that is what i will do... Simple fix to get back up and vaping quickly on these rather cheaply made Foggers, that i do love greatly....I hope this helps others that will be here looking for a good way to fix the inevitable broken negative post ....Latters.......

 

[awsum140]

addicted, the bottom deck is actually a two piece assembly and can be unscrewed into the two separate pieces.

 

[addicted behavior]

awsum, I am aware of that..lol... my plan was originally to drill threw to the bottom an inert a screw threw the bottom into the posts. As i was drilling with the base in two halves, i hit the hollow space i was referring to in original post and hard a hard time going past as the metal was much harder. i suspect that is because the factory drilled the holes and inserted a softer metal post that the negative post was fit upon. Maybe that metal post did not go all the way down. I have built on my fixed posts a few times and they are holding up well so far. it would be better i i would replace the neg posts with some 1/16 aluminum hollow tube, so the inserted screw would cut better threads and silver solder would stick better.

 

[awsum140]

In that case, I think what you found is yet another over drill by YiLoong. They do like to over drill the depth of any hole they can find it seems. How thick would you estimate the top half of the deck is? Also, being able to easily drill into the post then hitting harder metal seems to say the posts are not actually stainless steel but, yet another, Chinese mystery metal.

 

[addicted behavior]

awsum, there is a divot under the neg posts when they break off. when i drilled both sides out, it was a metal that i could drill, although with some effort...once i hit the void, the metal would not drill at all. This suggest a hardened stainless steel. it was the same on both sides so i know it was not me work hardening it..The posts are stainless steel, the post i was referring to were the ones it appears have been inserted into the holes on the deck used t attach the neg posts to or on..I could only guess at the depth of the two holes i drilled as i don't wish to take it apart to measure. if i ever have to, i will measure for you...

 

[awsum140]

Not necessary to measure, I was just looking for a guestimate as general information.