Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

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jimho

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Busardo scoped it in his review. Power and voltage spike I believe he said 'round 20% if I recall while in boost mode. Though the higher your power/voltage is set the less the boost impacts it (makes sense)

we covered that here too at length about a week before Thanksgiving..... and I think Provape chimed in at one point.... I also recall somewhere someone put together a table showing the boost vs power/voltage settings and the coil resistance.

I'm referring to how the power regulation works on the P3 in general (not just boost). I suspect there's more to what the P3 is doing when power is set than just flipping ohms law on its side to display power while keeping voltage constant ... I didn't see that really discussed in PB's review (maybe I missed it) . I definitely didn't see a trace and it certainly hasn't been talked about much here,

For a long time (actually since the first VW devices started showing up) I held to the argument that the difference between VV and VW was mostly just semantics. On paper and at steady state sure it's the same and with 32-36 ga wire I'd say it's negligible....but in practice, with heavier gauge wire, as a coil is heating up, now I'm not so sure.....

Unfortunately, my P3 is out of commission and at Provape right now (along with my tugboat and batteries)- I'm sure they'll figure out what caused my problems and address it (or me) appropriately, but I can't test anything right now.

Are you setting voltage or power? Do you find the behavior different setting VW vs an equivalent setting on VV... particularly on lower gauge builds?

One thing I did test is setting the voltage on my mini to 4.8V vs setting the P3 to 14.4W (with 1.6 ohm 26ga build... that's 3 amps for the mathematically lazy)- I could sit on the mini;s button for 10 seconds before it came up to temp but the P3 took only a couple of seconds to get up to temp with boost off and was almost right away with boost on. Point being IMHO, there's more going on with the algorithm managing the output than we've discussed here and whatever it is, it's good. The only way we'll know for sure is either from Provape or by looking at oscilloscope traces of the P3 vs 2.5 with different builds.
 

jimho

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Hey everyone. P3's been out a while now, and surely you must have a feature wishlist. Let's give ProVape some ideas!

My P3 WISHLIST for 2015:

• Display duration option of 0 to 1 second added. This is different from the "off" selection in that when you push the button, the display lights up, but only while you're pushing the button. This is good for quick checks, which can't be done if the display is "off". Better yet would be to change the behavior of the display and not have it on at all while firing, only during a single button press for the set duration. I find myself turning the display off at night, and on during the day a lot.

• Red LED blinking when battery low, exactly like the v2.5 - enough said?

• Battery voltage/percentage display toggle on main screen. Since we get boost/ohms and watts/volts toggles, why not add one more for the battery? Not everyone likes the percentage meter. A battery voltage display toggle would please everyone (and that's usually so hard to do).

• 35W/5.6A/6.3V limit increase (still well within 18350 safety limits). There are the low-wattage folks who are perfectly happy with 10W. I use a lot of tanks, from the Nautilus to the Kayfun and less than 20W. However, drippers, genesis, etc. often demand more than 20W to operate properly. For those who don't understand, basically 15W on a 6-second draw is the same as 30W on a 3-second draw. The difference is ease of the draw. Everyone has their own preference/style. With the numbers I've worked out above, it should be well within ProVape's safety concerns.

Let's get a bit more crazy now...

• Internal (menu only) date/clock/location, which auto dims the display in evening (using pre-programmed sunset curves, like home weather stations, for best accuracy). Who wouldn't want a bright display during the day, and a dimmer one at night? With the user setting the meaning of both "bright" and "dim" with the current 1-5 scale, should please everyone once again.

• With date/clock option above, novelty button LED color combinations (for example, red/green for Christmas, red/white/blue for 4th of July, etc.). Why not have some fun? I equate this idea to other novel tricks, such as VLC player adding a santa hat on the orange cone around Christmas time.

• Temperature control (w/nickle wire, ala DNA40). I'm sure this will come to all VV/VW mods someday. Wouldn't be difficult to add to the P3 and charge for the update. Far less R&D, manufacturing overhead, etc. for ProVape, far greater profit margin for ProVape, and much better on our wallets. Win/win/win.

Anyone else have any ideas to add?

I like your wish list ... keeping in mind, none of these are really show stoppers for most of us, but I do like your suggestions. I'd add, give me the IQ on the third press- I like checking the IQ every time I change batteries and going through the menu is a PITA.

Also I like the idea of a box mod- an 18490 and 18650 version with USB charge and replaceable battery would be sweet. I've been saying that since 2010 :) ...

I loved bottom feeders till the Provari came out and I miss using one - there is something to be said about dripping a fresh drop on a hot coil in the middle of a draw... kind of like a shotgut ...but I think the complications of isolating the board from juice (they all leak eventually) make that a long shot at best.
 

Bronze

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we covered that here too at length about a week before Thanksgiving..... and I think Provape chimed in at one point.... I also recall somewhere someone put together a table showing the boost vs power/voltage settings and the coil resistance.

I'm referring to how the power regulation works on the P3 in general (not just boost). I suspect there's more to what the P3 is doing when power is set than just flipping ohms law on its side to display power while keeping voltage constant ... I didn't see that really discussed in PB's review (maybe I missed it) . I definitely didn't see a trace and it certainly hasn't been talked about much here,

For a long time (actually since the first VW devices started showing up) I held to the argument that the difference between VV and VW was mostly just semantics. On paper and at steady state sure it's the same and with 32-36 ga wire I'd say it's negligible....but in practice, with heavier gauge wire, as a coil is heating up, now I'm not so sure.....

Unfortunately, my P3 is out of commission and at Provape right now (along with my tugboat and batteries)- I'm sure they'll figure out what caused my problems and address it (or me) appropriately, but I can't test anything right now.

Are you setting voltage or power? Do you find the behavior different setting VW vs an equivalent setting on VV... particularly on lower gauge builds?

One thing I did test is setting the voltage on my mini to 4.8V vs setting the P3 to 14.4W (with 1.6 ohm 26ga build... that's 3 amps for the mathematically lazy)- I could sit on the mini;s button for 10 seconds before it came up to temp but the P3 took only a couple of seconds to get up to temp with boost off and was almost right away with boost on. Point being IMHO, there's more going on with the algorithm managing the output than we've discussed here and whatever it is, it's good. The only way we'll know for sure is either from Provape or by looking at oscilloscope traces of the P3 vs 2.5 with different builds.

Honestly, I have stayed in VW mode since the day I received my P3. I'm not sure I understand what you're wondering about how "power regulation works". It sounds as if you're suggesting the power is delivered in a much accelerated fashion than versus the P2/2.5. That would come as a surprise to me.
 

rondasherrill

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Without adding a GPS, texting, and date and time I feel Provape hit a homerun by adding the boost. All I know is the flavor shines when the boost is on.

I was actually thinking... Along with the idea to adjust brightness and stuff according to time of day, a lot of people vape lighter in the mornings or evenings than during the day, so that would be a nice little perk of something like that.

However, something like that would require at the absolute minimum some form of real time clock, and what are the chances that they put an RTC in a PV?
 

Moonbogg

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Any cyborgs in here using a scroll speed faster than 3?

I was like, "Wait, hold...what was tha...OFF"

Also, how did I become such a Provari fanboy? I bought the P3 over a DNA40 when I already had a 2.5. I told myself I didn't need more than my 2.5 for an RBA. I told myself that high power would open more doors. I told myself that temp control was the fanciest new thing to hit the scene. And then I bought a P3, lol.
 
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SoftSell

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Any cyborgs in here using a scroll speed faster than 3?

I was like, "Wait, hold...what was tha...OFF"

Also, how did I become such a Provari fanboy? I bought the P3 over a DNA40 when I already had a 2.5. I told myself I didn't need more than my 2.5 for an RBA. I told myself that high power would open more doors. I told myself that temp control was the fanciest new thing to hit the scene. And then I bought a P3, lol.

I hear ya; been running mech mods and subohm rdas for the past 8 months, and never owned a provari, why would I want a 20W device? Because I like it. I like the way it looks and feels, the reliability, and the quality. I see no reason for a box mod that doesn't squonk. I feel clearos are making leaps and bounds and the P3 is a perfect device to utilize these. I'll leave my Reos to do the rdas.
 

JohnD0406

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I can't believe this tank hasn't made even a tiny splash in this P3 community! Will post pics and thoughts.

The SubTank is 25mm - doesn't fit on anything but a box mod. Even with the "beauty ring", it doesn't look right on the P3 due to the P3 being about 23mm, then there's a shelf to 22mm at the start of the beauty ring. What were they thinking? Most mods are 22-23mm, but someone though 25mm was a great idea?

Just speculation, but maybe because it's a Kanger product?
I've had nothing but problems with Kanger atomizers...

ProTanks were the best, until better products started coming out. Yeah, leaks, gurgles, dry burns... I upgraded mine with Aspire bases and Aspire dual coil heads and got some more life out of them.

Me too. Every Kanger system I bought was a huge let down. No offense to SoftSell, but there's not much chance a Kanger top will make it on my P3.

I like the vape from the Turbo (takes a 30mm mod though), with dual 0.8 ohm coils (for 0.4 ohms total), but filling it is a pain - have to turn a ring in the middle, since the two coils are side by side and can't twist. But yeah, seems Kanger misses the mark in at least one way with every product. With the SubTank, it's the 25mm diameter.
 

jimho

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Dec 23, 2009
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Honestly, I have stayed in VW mode since the day I received my P3. I'm not sure I understand what you're wondering about how "power regulation works". It sounds as if you're suggesting the power is delivered in a much accelerated fashion than versus the P2/2.5. That would come as a surprise to me.


VW implies the wattage is kept constant as the resistance changes, VV implies the voltage is kept constant and thus the wattage drops as the wire heats up- of course it's a bit more complicated because it's all done with RMS voltages and PWM.

What I am trying to understand how to account for the difference between what I observed on my V2.5 devices vs the VW setting on the P3 (without boost). ..

I am absolutely suggesting that the output is regulated differently between VW and VV and short of seeing it on an oscilloscope, I am hoping to get someone running 28 or even better 26Ga coils (most likely between 1.1 and 1.8 ohms) to share observations between VV & VW on a P3 (boost off) and the same build on a P2.5.

I'm simply exploring the probability that there are other improvements in the P3 related to how it manages output (beyond boost) that effect the quality of the vape, and those improvements would be most apparent in heavier gauge builds.
 
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