Official ProVari 3 Thread - P3

[AstroTurf]

Changelog says that V36 is just a cosmetic change, I believe.

It will work out. The P3 works fine.

About the update - send the device to ProVape, I assume?
Is there a changelog? Will google, but maybe you already know.

R

 

[raitizz]

Changelog says that V36 is just a cosmetic change, I believe.

Cosmetic?? Already? it just came out..

R

 

[Regzzz]

to IQ or not to IQ, a story by Reg...

Here is my take on the 99% IQ reading...

Ok, if you take a P3, remove atty, remove battery. insert battery, (no atty yet) you will get a 99 % IQ automatically because the P3 does not know it's IQ yet... even better then that, loosen the end cap now, just hanging by a tread, and you'll still see 99% IQ... the software can not get a proper IQ reading until it successfully sends a small pulse of electricity that includes a resistance at the end of the P3 (atty) (Now please understand that all that is measured is still only internal to the P3 (IQ does NOT include the status of the atty itself, or the quality of the connection of the atty to the P3))

Now to do some tests to prove? hehehe lets have fun...

Take your now fully assembled P3 with atty of your choice, check IQ (mine 91%)
Take atty off, check IQ (should be same... mine 91%)
lossen the end cap by 2 truns... (since now no atty, the software can not update the IQ... should be same as last reading... hehehe)

for fun... don't re-tighten the end cap yet... put on atty, check IQ (it should be now lower... because the software can now use the resistance of the atty to check it's IQ)

even more fun.... remove atty, remove battery, install battery, install end cap only a little... just enough to get power up.... check IQ... wow 99%

don't touch end cap yet... put on atty... check IQ oooopps went down to .... accurate reading.

was that fun or what?

all that to say that, yes the IQ is the quality of the conductivity internal to the P3 including the battery. but it needs an atty to actually do the test...

And that is the world as I see it... I may be totally wrong today... I have this medication that makes me hallucinate... hehehe

cheers all

 

[Netsyphen]

to IQ or not to IQ, a story by Reg... aka .........e

Here is my take on the 99% IQ reading...

Ok, if you take a P3, remove atty, remove battery. insert battery, (no atty yet) you will get a 99 % IQ automatically because the P3 does not know it's IQ yet... even better then that, lossen the end cap now, just hanging by a tread, and you'll still see 99% IQ... the software can not get a proper IQ reading until it successfully sends a small pulse of electricity that includes a resistance at the end of the P3 (atty) (Now please understand that all that is measured it still only internal to the P3 (IQ does NOT include the status of the atty itself, or the quality of the connection of the atty to the P3))

Now to do some tests to prove? hehehe lets have fun...

Take your now fully assembled P3 with atty of your choice, check IQ (mine 91%)
Take atty off, check IQ (should be same... mine 91%)
lossen the end cap by 2 truns... (since now no atty, the software can not update the IQ... should be same as last reading... hehehe)

for fun... don't re-tighten the end cap yet... put on atty, check IQ (it should be now lower... because the software can now ues the resistance of the atty to check it's IQ)

even more fun.... remove atty, remove battery, install battery, install end cap only a little... just enough to get power up.... check IQ... wow 99%

don't touch end cap yet... put on atty... check IQ oooopps went down to .... accurate reading.

was that fun or what?

all that to say that, yes the IQ is the quality of the conductivity internal to the P3 including the battery. but it needs an atty to actually do the test...

And that is the world as I see it... I may be totally wrong today... I have this medication that makes me hallucinate... hehehe

cheers all

Logic, makes sense to me. Atty has to be there to test, does not effect the result however.

 

[raitizz]

@Regzzz - yep. Makes sense.

R

 

[rbrylawski]

And yet again Crapatalk is all new. Aaaaassggggghhhhhh. Just as I finally get used to one version on my iPhone, they replace it with a new (not necessarily better) version. Where's participated in this app now?


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[rbrylawski]

Never mind . Found it. It's a dumb @ symbol.


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[Jake67]

Never mind . Found it. It's a dumb @ symbol.


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Lol.


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[raitizz]

Cosmetic?? Already? it just came out..
R

Jokes aside, read, that the V36 has a fix to the brightness settings when switching between profiles. Not relevant for me, so phew. Sending in for upgrades would mean at least 3 weeks for me, and thats if the UK vendor can do it. Got a bit upset..

R

 

[Bronze]

VW implies the wattage is kept constant as the resistance changes, VV implies the voltage is kept constant and thus the wattage drops as the wire heats up- of course it's a bit more complicated because it's all done with RMS voltages and PWM.

What I am trying to understand how to account for the difference between what I observed on my V2.5 devices vs the VW setting on the P3 (without boost). ..

I am absolutely suggesting that the output is regulated differently between VW and VV and short of seeing it on an oscilloscope, I am hoping to get someone running 28 or even better 26Ga coils (most likely between 1.1 and 1.8 ohms) to share observations between VV & VW on a P3 (boost off) and the same build on a P2.5.

I'm simply exploring the probability that there are other improvements in the P3 related to how it manages output (beyond boost) that effect the quality of the vape, and those improvements would be most apparent in heavier gauge builds.

26 gauge, 10 wrap, 2.35mm, 1.2ohms

Time to full glow (5 minute rest between tests to allow for cooling):

P2 (set at 3.2 volts) = 7 seconds
P3 (VW mode set at 9.0 watts/3.2 volt equivalent) = 7 seconds.
P3 (VV mode set at 3.2 volts) = 7 seconds
P3 (VW mode set at 9.0 watts and 3B boost level) = 7 seconds
P3 (VW mode set at 9.0 watts and 5B boost level) = 6 seconds (maybe even 5.5 seconds)

The boost clearly needs to be set high on 26 gauge to see a difference.

 

[Jake67]

26 gauge, 10 wrap, 2.35mm, 1.2ohms

Time to full glow (5 minute rest between tests to allow for cooling):

P2 (set at 3.2 volts) = 7 seconds
P3 (VW mode set at 9.0 watts/3.2 volt equivalent) = 7 seconds.
P3 (VV mode set at 3.2 volts) = 7 seconds
P3 (VW mode set at 9.0 watts and 3B boost level) = 7 seconds
P3 (VW mode set at 9.0 watts and 5B boost level) = 6 seconds (maybe even 5.5 seconds)

The boost clearly needs to be set high on 26 gauge to see a difference.

I agree. I think boost works best for people using OHMs in the 1.6 and up range. 30 gauge coils.
I'm using a 1.2 ohm coil with 28 gauge Kanthol @ 11.2 watts. Barely feel the boost. I have it set @ 3B.
Glad you confirmed what I suspected.


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[Bronze]

I agree. I think boost works best for people using OHMs in the 1.6 and up range. 30 gauge coils.
I'm using a 1.2 ohm coil with 28 gauge Kanthol @ 11.2 watts. Barely feel the boost. I have it set @ 3B.
Glad you confirmed what I suspected.


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I use a 28 gauge, 10-wrap, 2mm, 1.5 ohm coil, 8.6 watts and set boost at 2B and it makes a big difference. Currently using this 26 gauge, 10-wrap, 2.35mm, 1.2 ohm, 9.0 watts set at 5B and it most definitely makes all the difference in the world. I could cut the grass and wash the dishes in the time it would take to heat up that 26 gauge without boost. With boost it is instant vapor...even at 26 gauge. Impressive!

 

[Jake67]

I use a 28 gauge, 10-wrap, 2mm, 1.5 ohm coil, 8.6 watts and set boost at 2B and it makes a big difference. Currently using this 26 gauge, 10-wrap, 2.35mm, 1.2 ohm, 9.0 watts set at 5B and it most definitely makes all the difference in the world. I could cut the grass and wash the dishes in the time it would take to heat up that 26 gauge without boost. With boost it is instant vapor...even at 26 gauge. Impressive!

We are supplying different levels of power to the builds.
9 watts on a 1.2 build wouldn't satisfy my vaping style with 10 boost.
Am I reading your data incorrectly? I'm not seeing any decease in time to full glow between the P2 and the P3.
Glad it works for you. What atty are using 26 gauge wire on? Just curious.



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[Bronze]

We are supplying different levels of power to the builds.
9 watts on a 1.2 build wouldn't satisfy my vaping style with 10 boost.
Am I reading your data incorrectly? I'm not seeing any decease in time to full glow between the P2 and the P3.
Glad it works for you. What atty are using 26 gauge wire on? Just curious.



Sent from my iPhone

I saw no difference in ramp up time on the P2 versus the P3 (without boost). Ran the same test several times to confirm.

Yes, I'm a low power vaper. 42 years of Marlboros had something to do with that.

I'm using a Kayfun Lite. Boost has less affect the more watts you use. With my 26 gauge build, it takes 5 - 6 seconds to get up to temperature. With B5 boost, it's about 1 second. Day and night difference. And I'll say it again, the best thing about boost isn't simply that it heats up quicker. It's that we can use fatter wires and not have to wait for it to ramp up. Fatter wire = More Coil Area = More Flavor.

 

[JohnD0406]

Welcome to the family! I'm sure The Ocelot will knight you, if she hasn't already. Good choice in juice btw - I love Classified juices.

Just joined the ProVape!

Exellent choice! I do like the black ProVari's... My v2.5 is black, but I got the P3 beta in satin silver. It's a close second, but black still looks nicer IMHO.

Arrived today, set my LED to green, stuck on my sub tank and off I go...

My v2.5 has a green LED, but I can't help using the random LED color on the P3. I sometimes set a color to match a colored tank - I have 5 different colored Kayfun tanks I change around from juice to juice.

I used to 134 for around a year, the e-cig that helped me quit smoking.

I have the 134 as well. Wish it had higher wattage, but 12.5 isn't bad with some of these tanks. Have you seen the Innokin mechanical (Zodiac?) that looks similar to the 134? On the list of things to buy when I have too much money

 

[The Ocelot]

Definitely,

It's a smoother, cleaner pull and that's right out of the box (upped the wattage slightly). I have been reading the little 512 USB stick with the manuals on before and checking stuff out in the menus.

Wow! I didn't know anyone actually read the USB key.

 

[JohnD0406]

Go figure.. Insert a full battery, good or crappy - IQ 99 most times. Put an atty on - IQ drops depending on the battery, even as low as 67...

I know what ProVape have stated, but from an electronics point of view, unless both negative and positive are isolated during the resistance check (what IQ does), you're adding to the circuit by attaching an atty. Of course the positive is isolated, but probably not the negative. You don't need a complete circuit to make electricity flow. If you doubt that, try sticking a paperclip in one pole of your wall outlet

Disclaimer - I don't suggest actually doing that, and if you do, it's best you were removed from the gene pool.

As to the suggestion that ProVape are subtracting the resistance of the atty in order to run the IQ test, I'm not sure that's a great idea unless they're reading atty resistance with far more decimal places than we think. Look at how your ohm meter bounces around when testing a new build, and that's only hundredths of an ohm. It'd be an interesting high-level discussion with ProVape engineers, given the opportunity and their willingness to disclose their secrets.

 

[The Ocelot]

..but to continue the boring part, just checked something.
At this moment I have the crappy Tensai 18500 battery in, at 53% - IQ68.
Unscrewed atty (Naughty Mini) - IQ68.
Removed cap, attached cap - IQ99.
Attached atty. Without firing - IQ68.
After firing - IQ68.
What did I want to prove with that.....

R

Your ability to distinguish letters from numbers?

 

[The Ocelot]

Whereas I've understood that it monitors everything available TO the atomizer...from center pin to board connection, all the way through to the spring & cap connection.

Where are our helpful little data-mining post finding bloodhounds? Because Vape360 laid it out in plain English, somewhere far back in this thread...I'm just no good at hunting stuff down like that...

Click on "Search this thread"
just below it click "Advanced search"
Goes to a new page
Enter keyword "IQ"
Enter username: "Vape360"
Click "search"

16 posts come up, but I don't know which one you are looking for.

 

[JohnD0406]

Wow! I didn't know anyone actually read the USB key.

I did Got the beta, read the manual, noted dozens of minor errors and inconsistencies. It's either the engineer in me, or my OCD!