Ok, that coil is pretty high. I would bring it down for one.
Also, did you check vacuum?
Also, did you check vacuum?
Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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Okeeeey well I've dismantled everything so i can make sure everything is super clean. So let's see.
Will recoil with coil lower down. But i get zero throat hit when it's down.
Well yesterday i went to watch the hobbit.
Set my squape on the side.
After the film, picked up my device and it was ALL wet! It leaked from the air hole everywhere! Full tank of drakes blood lost
Why did this happen?
Before i put it to the side i was vaping it next to the smallest air hole setting. But i always do this.
Any ideas?
The first small handful of builds I made on mine I encountered this issue. What I believe, for me, is that if I don't cut the cotton flush at the top of the channels where they meet the sides, too much wicking material ends up down the sides which wicks it too much and thus causes flooding.
The other time I get flooding is if I either suck too much and get the gurgling or if I, like I was used to with my Kayfun, plug the air hole and suck lightly to increase juice to the chamber (I don't do this anymore with the Squape R but it was a force of habit coming from a Kayfun initially).
In either case, to rectify this I try 1 or 2 things. 1) Open up the air to the largest hole (3mm) and vape lightly, so as to avoid continuing to increase juice flow via suction and vape out the juice thats already in there. 2) The other thing is to again, open up the air to 3mm, screw off the device, hold perfectly up-side-down with paper towel pressed to the mouthpiece and blow through the air intake to dump the excess juice. Once thats done its back to normal without further leaking.
I think what happens is that because its designed to pump juice into the chamber with suction as you vape and juice flow is caused by suction which is increased by sucking harder & or using a smaller air hole, once theres a bit more juice in the chamber than needed, it will continue to add juice to the chamber with each vape/suction so it never vapes off the excess juice and instead, continues to add more juice to the chamber with each vape.
I also believe that the inner physics of the device & its juice flow is based on a gap of air between the reservoir and the chamber/wick. Suction causes juice to be forced onto the wick and it works beautifully. However, if there's too much juice in the chamber/wick, the gap is filled with juice which acts like a juice ladder to continually push juice from the reservoir to the chamber and leak out the air hole.
Its sort of hard to explain, but its like if you put a drop of juice on the tip of a tooth-pick and touch it to a drop of juice on a table, once the 2 drops touch, they are connected and flow together into one bigger drop. I believe that this is why, if a freshly filled tank is flooded and gurgling when I put it down before falling asleep, I wake up to a mess from the entire 5ml reservoir leaking out overnight and the tank is completely dried out in the morning. Because the gap between the reservoir and the chamber/wick is crucial and if it's flooded with juice it causes a constant flow until the gap can be restored using the methods I described above.
Sorry for the overly lengthy post, but it is how I see the inner working of the Squape R to function and ever since I've come to understand this, I have not had any more leaking issues.
On a side note, I contacted StattQualm about designing a wide deck made for DNA40/Ni200 because there's not much room for all the coils needed for this type of build. Not sure he got what I was saying but he did share that he is planning on releasing a couple new decks sometime soon so hopefully one will be what I'm hoping for.
I want a wide deck with room for more coils than it currently has. Its a pain with the small space considering you need each coil to be as spaced out as possible while cramming it down between the two wick channels. Lets hope my wish is granted.
I want a wide deck with room for more coils than it currently has. Its a pain with the small space considering you need each coil to be as spaced out as possible while cramming it down between the two wick channels. Lets hope my wish is granted.
Thought I'd share my current DNA40 build even though it's not pretty right now- been vaping it hard for a couple days and a bunch of tanks through it so it's probably due for a new wick & getting gunked up.
28 gauge Ni200, 9-10 spaced out wraps around about a 3mm bit to come in around 0.12-0.13ohm, vapes real nice & hard without hitting max temp shutoff set to 410°F.
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Thanks! However i have tried these solutions and yes they do work for a short period of time.
It just leaks again soon after.
Squape was one of the easiest decks to coil. When i first got it i had zero issue with leaking etc.
It's only after the provari issue, i just can't get it to how it used to be.
I even used to drape the cotton all along the sides too! That didn't even create any issues even though i recently found out it was wrong lol
I will try the solutions again.
Oh the cotton is cut flush to the edge. Just raised slightly for throat hit.
Any issues though? With the kayfun4 there's so many complaints as it doesn't read the atomizer some times.
Thought I'd share my current DNA40 build even though it's not pretty right now- been vaping it hard for a couple days and a bunch of tanks through it so it's probably due for a new wick & getting gunked up.
28 gauge Ni200, 9-10 spaced out wraps around about a 3mm bit to come in around 0.12-0.13ohm, vapes real nice & hard without hitting max temp shutoff set to 410°F.
Is the squape ok with the dna40?
Asking because I'm about the mod my VS dna30 and put the new dna40 board in. So would be interesting to see what you think of it with the squape.
How's it performing? Also i will be buying bigger decks if they make them!
When i last spoke to statQualm they did say 2015 has some cool new products coming! So can't wait!
WOW! Where the hell have you been
/jokeGreat explanation and tips which I just tried. I switched from the second smallest air hole to the monster and my draw is slow. So far so good. NICE! This is not my first rodeo and I almost sold the authentic! Your thoughts also make it easy to understand why this RTA consumes HUGE amounts of juice. Roughly, at least 40% more than my gaggle of KF's. They should also sell KGD /joke since that's the only wicking material I have found which can keep up with the juice delivery of this device.
Yeah, I only use the sheets of Japanese organic cotton because it works so well. I was heavily considering rayon, but I'm on the fence and doubt I ever will.
Okay, @ Junny89, If I ever experience a heavy gurgle/leaking, 1st I'll open up the air, draw light & vape to burn off excess juice. Once the gurgling is done, so is the leaking and I put it back to whatever hole I want and vape as normal. As soon as I hear gugrling, I know its going to leak and gotta burn of more. Sometimes this works but can take some time. If its heavily flooded, definitely gotta go for the all out paper towel route. I don't know anything about the raising it for throat hit because I've always made my coils flush with the wick channel but I imagine just like with a KF, coils positioned higher off the air intake hole = greater TH. Sometimes I pack cotton into the channels, but more often, I might very lightly give it a little nudge in there is at all. I haven't found much difference between cramming it in the channels or not but I feel like the more compacted it is will only hinder wicking, but given leaking issues, wicking well isn't the issue.
Another factor, I suppose, could be how thick or packed the cotton is. I personally cut a strip, remove the outer layers, give it a minimal quick roll & tightly twist an end to get it through the coil. I ultimately shoot for as minimal compacting/twisting as possible because I feel like it will wick better than when overly compacted.
Again though, once it starts flooding, the whole tank of juice is pretty much doomed until you rectify it & the most sure-fire way to is to remove it from the device, paper towel the mouth and blow it clear.
As for DNA40, I got the Squape R month or so ago and have been using it exclusively since and I vape just about every second I'm able to while awake (maybe I have a problem
). Got the flask a few weeks/month ago and have haven't vaped anything but it with the squape since, 100% using Ni200/temp control. I have not had any problems with the Squape on the flask other than struggling for room on the W deck because there's not much space for many coils, especially spaced ones and using 28 gauge. I really love the deck's non-conductive material. Sometimes the ohms can jump a bit on me but after letting it rest awhile it often fixes itself without doing anything (not even a up down new coil message). If the ohms appear to vary heavily and consistently, of course, its probably a loose connection and tightening the screws should fix that.
I haven't really thought about how much juice it uses compared to a KF. Prior to this I used a russian91 for over a year and would fill it up several times a day. With the squape, a 5ml tank lasts me most of the day but I definitely have to refill before the day's through. If its leaky, however, I'm just pouring juice down the drain - or more accurately, all over my pocket, table or wherever I have it sitting. In my experience so far, if it starts to leak, you have to fix it asap or it'll drain the entire tank.
Personally, for me, the middle two holes on the squape are where I keep it most of the time but everybody's different. But if using a smaller hole and having consistent leaking issues, it could be a matter of drawing too hard on it.
Okay, @ Junny89, If I ever experience a heavy gurgle/leaking, 1st I'll open up the air, draw light & vape to burn off excess juice. Once the gurgling is done, so is the leaking and I put it back to whatever hole I want and vape as normal. As soon as I hear gugrling, I know its going to leak and gotta burn of more. Sometimes this works but can take some time. If its heavily flooded, definitely gotta go for the all out paper towel route. I don't know anything about the raising it for throat hit because I've always made my coils flush with the wick channel but I imagine just like with a KF, coils positioned higher off the air intake hole = greater TH. Sometimes I pack cotton into the channels, but more often, I might very lightly give it a little nudge in there is at all. I haven't found much difference between cramming it in the channels or not but I feel like the more compacted it is will only hinder wicking, but given leaking issues, wicking well isn't the issue.
Another factor, I suppose, could be how thick or packed the cotton is. I personally cut a strip, remove the outer layers, give it a minimal quick roll & tightly twist an end to get it through the coil. I ultimately shoot for as minimal compacting/twisting as possible because I feel like it will wick better than when overly compacted.
Again though, once it starts flooding, the whole tank of juice is pretty much doomed until you rectify it & the most sure-fire way to is to remove it from the device, paper towel the mouth and blow it clear.
As for DNA40, I got the Squape R month or so ago and have been using it exclusively since and I vape just about every second I'm able to while awake (maybe I have a problem
). Got the flask a few weeks/month ago and have haven't vaped anything but it with the squape since, 100% using Ni200/temp control. I have not had any problems with the Squape on the flask other than struggling for room on the W deck because there's not much space for many coils, especially spaced ones and using 28 gauge. I really love the deck's non-conductive material. Sometimes the ohms can jump a bit on me but after letting it rest awhile it often fixes itself without doing anything (not even a up down new coil message). If the ohms appear to vary heavily and consistently, of course, its probably a loose connection and tightening the screws should fix that. I haven't really thought about how much juice it uses compared to a KF. Prior to this I used a russian91 for over a year and would fill it up several times a day. With the squape, a 5ml tank lasts me most of the day but I definitely have to refill before the day's through. If its leaky, however, I'm just pouring juice down the drain - or more accurately, all over my pocket, table or wherever I have it sitting. In my experience so far, if it starts to leak, you have to fix it asap or it'll drain the entire tank.
Personally, for me, the middle two holes on the squape are where I keep it most of the time but everybody's different. But if using a smaller hole and having consistent leaking issues, it could be a matter of drawing too hard on it.
I'm getting quite a bit of TH with a lower coil. More than my other tanks.
Put your finger over the airhole and suck hard. You should not be able to suck up anything. If you are able to pull any air or, ha ha, juice shoots up, you have an air leak. Its either an o ring or its where the chimney screws in. Now unlike my friend who had an o ring go bad on her kayfun lat week, you need to use the right sized o rings when you replace them
She just grabbed whatever she saw that were "close enough". She lost all her juice again, called me again to say it was still leaking. I asked if she was sure she used the right sizes, and she told me yes. Later I found out no, she used some from some other atty 
Once she used the right ones, it was magically fixed 
@Junny89: When looking at your second build pic, it looks like the wick on the right side of the coil, isn't flush with the edge of the deck, it looks just a bit too short. If I'm right, and it isn't just the picture, that could surely cause some flooding.
Also, make sure that the horizontal channels are filled completely - not compressed or anything, but just so that there aren't any visible "channels" for the juice to run through.
Coil position looks a bit high, but don't know if it has anything to do with your issues. You could try lowering it a bit, so that the bottom of the coil just dips into the well. I've built both high and low, with no issues.
Also, make sure that the horizontal channels are filled completely - not compressed or anything, but just so that there aren't any visible "channels" for the juice to run through.
Coil position looks a bit high, but don't know if it has anything to do with your issues. You could try lowering it a bit, so that the bottom of the coil just dips into the well. I've built both high and low, with no issues.
Not the prettiest build but I'm tired ...
3 strands of 30ga twisted to breaking. 7/64''ID 8wraps @ 1.13ohms
Coil placed high with the last wrap or two in the well.
Strip of organic Japanese cotton pad wide enough to cover the entire coil,
Trapped under the top lead.
Wrapped the strip of cotton tightly around the coil.
Trimmed and poked into the well between the deck and the coil to hold it tightly in place.
Added small pieces of cotton to fill the channel to the edge of the inside lip.
This wicking allows the juice to flow freely across the top of the deck. If you can see from this test fire in the lower left there is a gap from which vapor is escaping. I had to stuff a bit of extra cotton in this gap to seal it up and it stopped gurgling.
Just make sure the well is completely sealed and there shouldn't be any problems. Flavor is outstanding, Vape is dense and warm on the SVD (Still able to chain vape at 6.0v with no problem), On a mech flavor is still outstanding but vapor is lacking; next time I'll try an 8 wrap contact coil with 24ga.
EDIT: Gah! Twice now I tried to write this post and I don't know what I'm doing differently that's preventing the pics from posting properly. But they are in order and it's way past my bedftime
3 strands of 30ga twisted to breaking. 7/64''ID 8wraps @ 1.13ohms
Coil placed high with the last wrap or two in the well.
Strip of organic Japanese cotton pad wide enough to cover the entire coil,
Trapped under the top lead.
Wrapped the strip of cotton tightly around the coil.
Trimmed and poked into the well between the deck and the coil to hold it tightly in place.
Added small pieces of cotton to fill the channel to the edge of the inside lip.
This wicking allows the juice to flow freely across the top of the deck. If you can see from this test fire in the lower left there is a gap from which vapor is escaping. I had to stuff a bit of extra cotton in this gap to seal it up and it stopped gurgling.
Just make sure the well is completely sealed and there shouldn't be any problems. Flavor is outstanding, Vape is dense and warm on the SVD (Still able to chain vape at 6.0v with no problem), On a mech flavor is still outstanding but vapor is lacking; next time I'll try an 8 wrap contact coil with 24ga.
EDIT: Gah! Twice now I tried to write this post and I don't know what I'm doing differently that's preventing the pics from posting properly. But they are in order and it's way past my bedftime
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HAPPY NEW YEAR!
I got tired, came home, twisted up a coil using some new tempered Ni200 28 gauge I ordered from stealthvape and I gotta say, the "tempered" nickel is much easier to wrap coils with than annealed (ie all other nickel available that doesn't specifically note that its tempered including everything currently sold by temco).
28 gauge tempered nickel 200 wrapped around a 3mm bit on a wide deck, using KGD cotton not twisted or compressed, cut as best I could deal with to the edge of the top of the deck, right now coming in at 0.16ohm and slowly rising to the 370's F with it set to 410F. No leaking, great wicking, great vapor and my Halcyon Dragon Ch'i is tasting as great as ever.
Happy 2015!
Happy 2015
I got tired, came home, twisted up a coil using some new tempered Ni200 28 gauge I ordered from stealthvape and I gotta say, the "tempered" nickel is much easier to wrap coils with than annealed (ie all other nickel available that doesn't specifically note that its tempered including everything currently sold by temco).
28 gauge tempered nickel 200 wrapped around a 3mm bit on a wide deck, using KGD cotton not twisted or compressed, cut as best I could deal with to the edge of the top of the deck, right now coming in at 0.16ohm and slowly rising to the 370's F with it set to 410F. No leaking, great wicking, great vapor and my Halcyon Dragon Ch'i is tasting as great as ever.
Happy 2015!
Happy 2015
Oh, & in case you couldn't see in the pics, its 10 wraps.
Love to hear how the vertical coils are working on this thing. I imagine you could probably get a lot of well spaced coils with long legs to boost the resistance.
Love to hear how the vertical coils are working on this thing. I imagine you could probably get a lot of well spaced coils with long legs to boost the resistance.
Just a note about using the clone decks in the authentic, in my case the EHPro W deck.
While it does fit there is some minor difference that makes it near impossible to wick correctly. I tried everything I could, more cotton, less cotton, trimming even with the deck, leaving a tail down the juice channel, and I would consistently get dry hits. I switched to the authentic S deck and wicked it perfectly ever since. I think there is some minor difference that chokes the juice flow.
Since I can't seem to find the authentic W deck in stock anywhere in the US, I'm going to have to order it from the UK I guess...
While it does fit there is some minor difference that makes it near impossible to wick correctly. I tried everything I could, more cotton, less cotton, trimming even with the deck, leaving a tail down the juice channel, and I would consistently get dry hits. I switched to the authentic S deck and wicked it perfectly ever since. I think there is some minor difference that chokes the juice flow.
Since I can't seem to find the authentic W deck in stock anywhere in the US, I'm going to have to order it from the UK I guess...
so I just bought a squape r clone from angelcigs, my new years resolution is to rebuild & stop getting dry hits from these kanger tanks.
So where should I start,, really
Any and All advice appreciated
are my iStick & mvp 2.0 enough? planning to upgrade when funds allow,, not sure to what
what deck to start with?
coil gauge, size & material?
wick?
any other advice or things I might need
I'll be scrolling through the thread
Thanks in advance
So where should I start,, really
Any and All advice appreciated
are my iStick & mvp 2.0 enough? planning to upgrade when funds allow,, not sure to what
what deck to start with?
coil gauge, size & material?
wick?
any other advice or things I might need
I'll be scrolling through the thread
Thanks in advance
This would probably be a great place to start since DJ is running his on an iStick as well:
Cotton seems to be the wick of choice for most any build, and as for the ID it seems like the SQR likes the coil to be the same width as the channel for either the S or W decks. With those mods I think you'll do better with thinner wire (30ga is a good place to start) targeting around 1.5-2.0ohms using the S deck
Cotton seems to be the wick of choice for most any build, and as for the ID it seems like the SQR likes the coil to be the same width as the channel for either the S or W decks. With those mods I think you'll do better with thinner wire (30ga is a good place to start) targeting around 1.5-2.0ohms using the S deck
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Put it on the istick
A good start:
W deck
28g wire, 7 wraps on 7/64" (2.8mm) ID for 1.5 ohm. 3mm will work also. Smaller than 2.8mm sets you up for flooding on this deck.
Cut wick right at the deck edges or it will dry hit if wick goes down the side channels.
The istick is crazy because its so inaccurate. Start around 8.5W and adjust from there because that's about 12.5W on an accurate mod.
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