How did you wick that thing? Do you use KGD? Did you wick the coil and then use a separate piece for the cup? Damn.....so many questions
I used one piece of kdg 2" long and stuffed the ends in the cup.
Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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I used one piece of kdg 2" long and stuffed the ends in the cup.
How did you wick that thing? Do you use KGD? Did you wick the coil and then use a separate piece for the cup? Damn.....so many questions
Here's a picture. I don't think I can put much more cotton in there.
Looks like it will produce tons of vapor and be easy to keep under temp. Have you been reaching temp or hitting TP with that much cotton? Damn, I can't wait to test it out?
Yeah I don't hit the TP and get all the vapor I can handle, my sweet spot with my current juice its 400deg 22.5w
Makes me wonder how efficient having a coil that size since only the center is over the air hole. I realize for those of you with TP chips (dna40 etc) need to make larger coils, but on a standard kanthal build, just seems like a coil that size wouldn't perform as well as a coil that is all over the air hole?
Again, I'm not sure still... The B deck has me intrigued.
I'm usually an early adopter of stuff, but I think I'm going to let temp control mature a little before I jump on board. Too many variables right now, wire (nickel/titanium), issues with the chip it self, refinement (whatever that is exactly), I've even read people saying the Chinese clone dna40s perform better than evolves chips. That can't be right.
Is this the build that leaked on you? I'm just guessing, but I would say the cotton in the cup is going too high and close to the air hole. Maybe try stuffing it just not as high at the same level as the air hole. If that makes any sense. Lol
Looks awesome though, I can't wait to test it out
Thanks, that exactly what I figured, I could see some cotton creeping in the air hole. So this time I made sure the air hole was clear and the cotton was not to high, the cotton did seem to bloom with the juice flow. So far it's good!
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The biggest issue for me in the beginning with temperature protection and nickel was having misconceptions, treating nickel like Kanthal and not having the proper wire.
I absolutely think tempered nickel should be a prerequisite, period. When I started out with annealed nickel I hated it and almost gave up on it. Some said to work harden the nickel and it becomes a lot more like tempered nickel. I tried that and it helped some, but just some. The stuff I work harden wasn't near as easy or as nice to work with as the tempered nickel I have.
Another issue I had was not using spaced coils. I went right to compressed coils and tried everything to make them work, and maybe they did for a few hours or a night, but they always failed and it was frustrating . When you dry fire nickel it changes. It get squishy and even more soft.
Size is another issue. Most, if not all our tanks were designed for small(er) coils. You really need to keep your resistance above .10 with TP, and ideally at .14 or more. My sweet spot is .15. With 28ga nickel it was hard if not impossible to make a spaced coil small enough to fit in most my tanks and still have room to wick.
Our atties need to catch up with temperature protection. They need to be designed with nickel in mind. Little bigger build decks would solve a lot of problems too. And I think this new B deck is one of those design changes. Was the B deck made specifically for nickel? It would be nice to know , but I think is going to handle nickel beautifully.
Refinement allows the coil and mod to normalize once it sets for awhile. Anymore my refinements are only .1 either direction. If your resistance or refinement changes drastically it's a sign that something's wrong. And it's usually with the coil - because annealed is so soft it's probably shifted or compressed when trying to wick it or when attaching it to an atty, and that will mess everything up.
I would say don't wait, jump on. I personally think the Squape is the perfect atty to learn on, and I think this new B deck is going to make it even a little easier. I'm confident enough with it now that I don't have any hesitation recommending it to a seasoned vapor like you
A total newbie, probably not. And I apologize for the long-winded comment. I'm just that passionate about it. Can you tell
And with 30ga tempered nickel you can make your coils quite small, and it's super easy to work with. Mine are only 6 wraps and they vape beautifully and fit perfectly over the air hole. So see, no more excuses. [emoji14] [emoji23] [emoji23]
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@Rikk, what are you doing to me man... My wife wants to shoot me already! I have this disease... Shinyitis... Must have anything new and shiny.
Calling me a seasoned vaper, giving the excuse to buy the B deck, and a temp control chip.... I'm going to end up sleeping on the couch for a week.
Calling me a seasoned vaper, giving the excuse to buy the B deck, and a temp control chip.... I'm going to end up sleeping on the couch for a week.
I've only ever used Temco annealed Ni200, I perfer 26ga as it's pretty stiff for nickel. I have no problem rewicking it as much as I need to, if you want to try TC at at a reasonable price I would recommend a HB40. As it comes with an authentic DNA40, just make sure you get the latest model. As for the B deck it seems like it was made for nickel builds, it's like a tank fed dripper with all the room you need for any kind of nickel build you could want to do.
What's a few nights on the couch, we're here to keep you company [emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]@Rikk, what are you doing to me man... My wife wants to shoot me already! I have this disease... Shinyitis... Must have anything new and shiny.
Calling me a seasoned vaper, giving the excuse to buy the B deck, and a temp control chip.... I'm going to end up sleeping on the couch for a week.
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Yea, 26 gauge would be nice to work with. That's what's awesome about this deck. It would be next to impossible to use 26ga in most other tanks. Man, I can't wait till Monday. @Phone Guy is going to need to wait even longer if he doesn't hurry up.
Ugh, I'm hoping the new deck isn't a leaker. With all the cash I'm blowing on juice I don't want to be paying through the nose for stains too.
I tried teflon on the center pin & I still can manually adjust the resistance by twisting it ever so slightly. Twisting the pin out (anti-clockwise) makes ohms drop & twisting in (clockwise) makes them increase. This has always been the case for me. Might try adding even more teflon to it.
I imagine the threads on the pin are responsible for making internal positive contact. I'll add more teflon to everything but the threads & see how it does.
I tried teflon on the center pin & I still can manually adjust the resistance by twisting it ever so slightly. Twisting the pin out (anti-clockwise) makes ohms drop & twisting in (clockwise) makes them increase. This has always been the case for me. Might try adding even more teflon to it.
I imagine the threads on the pin are responsible for making internal positive contact. I'll add more teflon to everything but the threads & see how it does.
The B decks are gone at vape Rev. LOL
*if* I were to get a temp control chip or device, I'm not sure if I'd want a dna40 chip only and put it in my vapor flask, which I just put in a dna20, buy something cheap like the HB40, or go with the SX mini S class... I've never owned a YiHi device...?
Has any of you with the B deck confirmed the taste is better than the W deck? Or is it just the enormous coiling area at this point...
*if* I were to get a temp control chip or device, I'm not sure if I'd want a dna40 chip only and put it in my vapor flask, which I just put in a dna20, buy something cheap like the HB40, or go with the SX mini S class... I've never owned a YiHi device...?
Has any of you with the B deck confirmed the taste is better than the W deck? Or is it just the enormous coiling area at this point...
Cheap might be a smart way to go. Pick up that DNA 40 device that's under a hundred bucks and see what you think. I think you'll love it.
Man that sucks you're having issues with your 510 screw. I'm trying to understand what's really going on with it. Is it wobbly and move around, or does it turn and screw it's self back in as you're tightening your atty? And a totally silly question but is your o-ring in place.
I know you're not the only one having issues with the screw, but I'm sort of not getting it because I have my 510 screw just protruding a bit past the base and it seems to stay were I put it. The only issues I ever have with it is if it gets dirty. But I pull it out and cleaner up real good about once a week.
It makes me wonder if they've had some quality control issues with the 510 PIN or something. It sort of sounds like it.
If you try adding additional Teflon tape to it, let us know how that goes. And I wonder if you used a little larger/thicker o-ring if that would help?
What ever you try, please keep us posted because it will probably help someone else out too. And who knows, maybe me in the future
At Vape Rev, whenever an item is out of stock on the website, call a place a phone order. I have done this several times successfully, including yesterday when I try to purchase the B deck online. it was out of stock. but my phone order was successful.
Anybody here use or have the Calix by Leo. I'm really digging it but have a hard time finding much info on it? Like, how is it to coil, especially with a single coil and does it do nickel well?
Not looking to replace my Squape, just complement it.
Not looking to replace my Squape, just complement it.
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