Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

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Rikk

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B deck showed up from Vaperev this morning. Used my 30ga tempered Ni200 for the first time. 2.5mm, 10 wraps, wicked with rayon - my ohm meter reads it as .156, my Hana .17. Have the Hana set to 18W, 450deg. I'm not totally sure I'm getting the flavor I was getting from the W deck but that may be in my head. I'll have to play with some more builds and wicking. This is only second nickel build ever so I'm sure I can refine my technique.

The B deck is ridiculously easy to build... but, it's not like the W deck was a tough build, lol. The B deck seems made for nickel builds.

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Nice coil! Man there's a ton of room in there. Can't wait to get home from work today. Um, wonder if I'm feeling a sickness coming on and should go home early ;) I wish I could do that.
 

inswva

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Nice coil! Man there's a ton of room in there. Can't wait to get home from work today. Um, wonder if I'm feeling a sickness coming on and should go home early ;) I wish I could do that.

Yes, there is a huge amount of room in this thing. I'm going to need some 26ga Ni200 now.
 

Rikk

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Yes, there is a huge amount of room in this thing. I'm going to need some 26ga Ni200 now.
Same here as all I have is 28, 29 and 30ga. I might revisit twisting some up and see how that goes again. A lot of people seem to have good success twisting nickel, where I sort of sucked at it. But will definitely try again with the new mega deck.
 

SeniorBoy

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Ok, why is everyone so worried about hitting TP? I thought if you set a temp, it doesn't go above that temp, so even if you get temp protection your still vaping at 420f or 500f or whatever....?

A short answer for you: When you hit TP the DNA40 REDUCES the power aka Watts. That's the way it's supposed to work :) For many, myself included, this produces a less flavorful vape and less vapor production. You need to tweak your settings as already posted so you NEVER hit TP for the duration of your draw. Also, the duration of your draw may change throughout the day.

In a dripper, which is the game changer for me, a fully saturated wick should be used to tweak your settings. Then in the same dripper, as your wick begins to dry out, TP will kick in sooner. That's the way it's supposed to work :) Pretty soon you will notice a loss of flavor and vapor, and TP in a dripper will kick in sooner and so much so, you are sure to notice this. That's a good thing, and your cue to drip drip drip to properly saturate the wick.

EDIT: If you are new to NI200, then I suggest you spend the time to watch the screen on your device and see how the numbers change during a draw or even a fire and hold. This will help you understand how the DNA40 works with a given topper and your latest build.

HTH

:)
 
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Rikk

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A short answer for you: When you hit TP the DNA40 REDUCES the power aka Watts. That's the way it's supposed to work :) For many, myself included, this produces a less flavorful vape and less vapor production. You need to tweak your settings as already posted so you NEVER hit TP for the duration of your draw. Also, the duration of your draw may change throughout the day.

In a dripper, which is the game changer for me, a fully saturated wick should be used to tweak your settings. Then in the same dripper, as your wick begins to dry out, TP will kick in sooner. That's the way it's supposed to work :) Pretty soon you will notice a loss of flavor and vapor, and TP in a dripper will kick in sooner and so much so, you are sure to notice this. That's a good thing, and your cue to drip drip drip to properly saturate the wick.

EDIT: If you are new to NI200, then I suggest you spend the time to watch the screen on your device and see how the numbers change during a draw or even a fire and hold. This will help you understand how the DNA40 works with a given topper and your latest build.

HTH

:)
Well said [emoji4].

Vape mail today and I think I know what I got.....B deck here I come. [emoji12]
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Rikk

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I love vapemail
Me too, and maybe too much.

You sort of forget how small this stuff is to work on until you have the build deck in your hands. And I need to get a magnifying glass or just stronger reading glasses because these small coils are getting impossible to see any more. You otta see my trying to count my damn wraps.

But this thing is going to hold a much larger coil and the well is quite deep. I'm going to try and get this thing built after dinner and I'll post some photos.
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Phone Guy

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You sort of forget how small this stuff is to work on until you have the build deck in your hands. And I need to get a magnifying glass or just stronger reading glasses because these small coils are getting impossible to see any more. You otta see my trying to count my damn wraps.

LOL!!! ME TOO!!!!! HAHAHAHA!! Here's my secret... the official old guy pair of reading glasses, or my lighted magnifying desk lamp I bought who-knows-where-or-when... then I get one of the smallest flat head precision screwdrivers I have and gently run it across the coil and count the bumps as I go. I can usually NEVER actually "see" coil wraps anymore......

OMG, I nearly spit soda all over my keyboard when I read that part of your post.....LOL!!!! :toast:
 

Rikk

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LOL!!! ME TOO!!!!! HAHAHAHA!! Here's my secret... the official old guy pair of reading glasses, or my lighted magnifying desk lamp I bought who-knows-where-or-when... then I get one of the smallest flat head precision screwdrivers I have and gently run it across the coil and count the bumps as I go. I can usually NEVER actually "see" coil wraps anymore......

OMG, I nearly spit soda all over my keyboard when I read that part of your post.....LOL!!!! :toast:

I know right. How hard can it be to count 8 damn wraps. I'm certainly going to try your touchy feely way next time. Maybe then I won't need to hold it right up to my nose and use a flashlight. LOL!
 

nj1001

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Anyone with a B-deck have any comment on leaking issues? How about with it laying down?

Looks like you just need to make sure you don't fill it above that air intake channel. Tipping it in any direction shouldn't allow juice to escape down that center hole (& thus leaking out the air intake). The same suction activated juice feeding should apply... but there's those lower juice feed holes. Hmmm... wonder how it prevents from flooding the deck?

Being able to saturate a longer wick not only means a few extra vapes after the tank dries up, but having a wick that's harder to vape dry when the tank's full.

I can't wait to wrap more coils with this thing!
One I ordered is still in Cali and the other is probably in the alps.
 

Rikk

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Decided to quickly watch a build video of the new Calix before I attempted to build the new B deck and just awoke to a nice kinked neck. Why does TV do that to me any more. Oh well, tomorrow's my Saturday so I'll attempt it then when I'm totally refreshed.

Maybe then we'll find out if this thing leaks, other than I usually don't lay it down on its side. And I sure hope it doesn't in its upright position either. Nite...
 

nevillebartos

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Anyone with a B-deck have any comment on leaking issues? How about with it laying down?.

I've had none whatsoever over the past 24hours but have kept it mostly upright and a bit tilted, was rattling around in the car too a bit. might lay the atty itself on some paper towel overnight and see what happens.

back to the TP stuff, it's seeming to me as though higher VG juices are less effective at coiling the coil, maybe im just taking longer draws?
 

Riblet

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Decided to quickly watch a build video of the new Calix before I attempted to build the new B deck and just awoke to a nice kinked neck. Why does TV do that to me any more. Oh well, tomorrow's my Saturday so I'll attempt it then when I'm totally refreshed.

Maybe then we'll find out if this thing leaks, other than I usually don't lay it down on its side. And I sure hope it doesn't in its upright position either. Nite...

After two days the only leak I believe was user error, with me putting cotton too high around the air hole. Other then that she been dry.
 

LazyBulldogge

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Me too, and maybe too much.

You sort of forget how small this stuff is to work on until you have the build deck in your hands. And I need to get a magnifying glass or just stronger reading glasses because these small coils are getting impossible to see any more. You otta see my trying to count my damn wraps.

I usually take a nice, and focused, close-up pic with my cell-phone, then zoom in as much as I can - makes it really easy to count the wraps. Just a tip for you other blind poor guys out there :D
(Hit the censor block for the first time in that post, wow :p )
 

Phone Guy

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I usually take a nice, and focused, close-up pic with my cell-phone, then zoom in as much as I can - makes it really easy to count the wraps. Just a tip for you other blind poor guys out there :D
(Hit the censor block for the first time in that post, wow :p )
Oh.... I like the cellphone picture idea, easier than trying to get ANYONE in the house to come help you count the wraps... LOL

Counting the wraps are really important when doing dual Coils... Which I have been playing with lately, and using 30g wire, tiny (invisible) wire.
 

nj1001

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Ok, why is everyone so worried about hitting TP? I thought if you set a temp, it doesn't go above that temp, so even if you get temp protection your still Vaping at 420f or 500f or whatever....?

I like how others have responded to this and I will add that though ohms & temp are certainly variables which contribute to the equation, I've had 0.09 ohm coils that would hover around 300 degrees at 20+ watts. I;ve also had 0.16 ohm coils engage TC immediately. This shows that any ohm coil can either slam up the temp control or stay well beneath it. So though resistance is certainly a factor, it doesn't necessarily mean that any given resistance value will influence whether or not TC it hit or how long it might take to. Therefore, one could argue that value of resistance can be irrelevant when determining cause of exceeding desired temp. And to further complicate things, the opposite can also be true, i.e. the higher the resistance, in many cases, means that it could take longer to reach a desired temp, but as I mentioned, it isn't always true either. Of course there are other variables like wicking and having a wet wick decreases the potential of combusting let say cotton. And well spaced coils further decreases potential for overheating them. And to make things even trickier, dry burning Ni200 above 600 degrees can release funky stuff (referred to as grafitization) which, if you want to avoid, means you can't really heat the coils until they glow to detect hot spots like you could with kanthal. Considering how subtle variation down to the hundredth of an ohm can influence the quality of the vape shows just how sensitive these variables can be.

Oh its so complicated.

In my experience, as soon as temp control is activated, the vapor sucks - its significant reduced to the point of being unnoticeable, unsatisfying and worthless compared to when it is not activated.
 

Rikk

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And why can't the Coils touch again?

I saw this awesome video on how to make a Clapton coil, which seems like that would allow users to get the higher resistance levels they're looking for.
You can used compressed coils....I have. But if you're not firing the coil to work out the hot spots prior to wicking, you can end up with hot spots and a crappy coil and vape. And that always seemed to happen to me.

Some do dry fire nickel. I choose not to. And with spaced coils I never have hot spots or end up with a bad coil. They just always seem to work out. Funny I never used spaced coils with Kanthal. Always compressed.



Just ripped my Squape apart, getting ready to put the new base in and see how this goes. I think I'm going to start with 28ga nickel and see how that goes.
 

Riblet

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You can used compressed coils....I have. But if you're not firing the coil to work out the hot spots prior to wicking, you can end up with hot spots and a crappy coil and vape. And that always seemed to happen to me.

Some do dry fire nickel. I choose not to. And with spaced coils I never have hot spots or end up with a bad coil. They just always seem to work out. Funny I never used spaced coils with Kanthal. Always compressed.



Just ripped my Squape apart, getting ready to put the new base in and see how this goes. I think I'm going to start with 28ga nickel and see how that goes.

Same here nickel micro coils would give me fits, once I switch to standard coils with 26ga temco Ni200 wire. I'm not have issues with my coils, and now with the B-deck it easy as pie to build 26ga standard coils.[emoji6]
 
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