Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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Guys. Need advice. Clapton fused. Whenever I make a new coil it smells metal-ly. The juice does not taste right. After vaping half a tank I swap it, leave it for a few days and next time around no problems. I am dry burning in, tried pulsing to see if it made a difference. Nothing. Normal Claptons have no smell at all. Advice anyone?
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What I'm talking about is not a device (VTC, DNA40, SX350J, etc) issue. I have used nothing but a DNA40 & an SX350 device and my Squape running Ni200 for over a year now.
The issue is that the Squape's centerpin, when screwed in or out, will impact the resistance reading of the coil. I believe it is partially due to the fact that temp protection chips are so sensitive down to the hundredth if not thousandth of an ohm. So when using something so sensitive, subtle variations in resistance make a big difference. No atomizer's centerpin adjustment should make an impact like this, but it does for the Squape. I can ply with it and get it to read properly and then lock the Ω and have it work, but having to play with it for awhile to do is gets annoying.
Others in this thread have also experienced this. My question is whether buying a new base will solve this. I don't think that it will.
The issue is that the Squape's centerpin, when screwed in or out, will impact the resistance reading of the coil. I believe it is partially due to the fact that temp protection chips are so sensitive down to the hundredth if not thousandth of an ohm. So when using something so sensitive, subtle variations in resistance make a big difference. No atomizer's centerpin adjustment should make an impact like this, but it does for the Squape. I can ply with it and get it to read properly and then lock the Ω and have it work, but having to play with it for awhile to do is gets annoying.
Others in this thread have also experienced this. My question is whether buying a new base will solve this. I don't think that it will.
Cape Cod polishing pads will work. Any jewelry polish should. Hell, I'm sure you could use a fine car polish and have it work. Its just to remove the frost and have it clear. I bet you could also use a super high grit wet/dry sandpaper, used very lightly and have it work -like 2000+ grit.
They key is FINE polish. 2 types of fine polish I can think of off hand are, like mentioned, jeweler's or car polish. Both will work. The finer the better.
Toothpaste should work. How'd you apply it? Maybe if you kept trying to rub it in for a lot longer? Its probably going to be tedious work, i.e. take a good while.
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I had similar problems when I first started using temp control. I also never go above 20W. I just don't have a need to.
Ensure that your coils are wrapped tightly & that they're perfectly spaced. Any warp or imperfection in any part of the coil or it's legs, I have found, can impact quality of its performance when using temp wires. Of course, there could be a problem with a chip, but as I mentioned, varying resistance in the squape is a huge factor. A coil that's supposed to read 0.12, for example, I can adjust the center pin and have it read 0.11 or 0.18 -both while totally cold, just by screwing in or out the center pin. If the coil's resistance is read incorrectly by the chip/device, your vape will either be too harsh (chip thinks coil resistance is higher than it actually is), or it will hit temp control way to fast (if the device/chip thinks the coil's resistance is lower than it actually is).
I've ordered some metal polish, which what cape cod is. Going to give that a try. After that I'll get cape cod. Really not feeling the frost look at all. Want it clean looking.
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Still feel TC is not ready for prime time. Maybe it is for premade coils but for the self-coiler. It's available but not as good as it will be in say 7-9 months time. Using Standard wire but have gone from 32/30G to Clapton, twisted and fused. My previous go to build and it was very feint. Just so use to Claptons everywhere.
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Because I haven't really twisted kanthal since I started using Ni200, I've gotten pretty good at it & can do it quickly. I'd never use any nickel that's not tempered. I don't have that much patients, haha. Personally, my issue isn't with twisting up nickel coils as much as this damn squape pin adjustment.
Every other atty I've bought and tried is... eh, compared to the flavor and satisfaction I get from the squape so its more of a PITA I deal with but would love a more permanent solution. Didn't know if simply buying a new base would help.
Every other atty I've bought and tried is... eh, compared to the flavor and satisfaction I get from the squape so its more of a PITA I deal with but would love a more permanent solution. Didn't know if simply buying a new base would help.
Nj...not tried TC yet but want to towards end of year. Waiting to the tech to be improved. I am not sure if there is anything as good as Clapton fused coils. Hopefully stratt will do a full proper design of the Squape and sort out the pin issue. If I had the skills I would make my slightly longer pin screw or somewhere attach a very small extension to even the contact.
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I've been thinking of repairing the threads of my old Squape R base and using something like this to fix the center pin. Sometime this week I'll examine the base and pin arrangement and see if that's practical, or if I risk exposing juice to the epoxy.
http://www.amazon.com/Resist-Electr..._5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1444452723&sr=1-5
http://www.amazon.com/Resist-Electr..._5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1444452723&sr=1-5
So i got a metal polisher called PEEK. Did not clean the frost off. Ordered cape cod wipes. Will try again next weekend. Also discovered that I don't have the Rs chimney so ordered one of those. Getting a B based. Heard good things about it so hoping it's true. Anyone got any B deck advice? Will try a 3mm build Clapton fused first. Also I figured out something about fused Claptons. They don't like dry burning. Using lower watts to get the coil right and up the wattage for vaping seems to work. Drying burning at higher temps seems leave a metal like taste.
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I used Brasso, a microfibre cloth, and some good ole fashioned elbow grease to clear up my bell cap. the frosted look literally needs to be buffed/polished off.
Has anyone here seen the provari radius thread? I emailed stattqualm to see if they would be making a p3 threaded base. No plans are in the works.
I would get one ... or 2 (new P3 threaded bases) if Stattqualm made them. My wife loves the Squape R and Rs.
I have the same issue now although it has been fine previously. No idea what is going on really except that the 510 pin is probably a little loose. Taifun GT2 has the same problem...did you find a solution?? I doubt a new base would make any difference and its an expensive experiment!
I think that the pure contact between 510 pin and base is not as secure and fixed as it should be. For 0.2ohm or higher it's fine but at lower ranges this problems comes up. Do you still have the problem at higher ohm's?
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