TC only for me so no! It is a small variation of around 0.01-0.05 in my recent experience. For kanthal vaping it makes no difference (1.0 vs 1.05...would anyone even notice?) but for TC it is a very significant difference!
Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!
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Had this with the sub ohm was taking off. Should of waited a bit more. I think companies like aspire have it right for TC. Have a solid base with no adjusting 510 pin. It's just there and fixed rock solid. For more expensive tanks they should create 2 types of pins. Standard and another one that is a bit longer and is fixed into place.
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Yup im getting this now, this is probably the whole reason its sending me grey before my time lol - Its even started happening on kanthal builds now , my 1.115 build was reading 2.6 earlier, screwed the 510 in a tiny bit and back to 1.13, something is not right with the 510 on this one - its been through the ultrasonic 7 times, cleaned the threads out and it continues to do the odd changing in resistance - so for the time being TC is well and truly out of the question.
If i understand it right, if i build a TC coil and Resistance lock the cold coil on the DNA40, even if the resistance still changes it will perform like poop, and not really stop it flucuating.
My fix is to first make sure it's cold & hasn't been fired in 10+ minutes. I compare resistance readings on at least two different devices (1 or 2 DNA40s & a SX350J). I twist the pin in or out until I get a reasonable or expected reading & lock it down. Days later, without touching the center pin, it will continue to read an accurate resistance so long as I don't touch that pin even after recoiling. I think it's a matter of getting the pin into the perfect position and a smidge in or out too far deviate from an accurate reading.
What I've found is that after a couple days without touching the pin, it seems harder to twist- almost as though it gunks itself into place.
I'm not sure to what extent funky juice building up behind the pin influences any of this, but the juice seems to lube the threads when tightened and loosened frequently.
What I've found is that after a couple days without touching the pin, it seems harder to twist- almost as though it gunks itself into place.
I'm not sure to what extent funky juice building up behind the pin influences any of this, but the juice seems to lube the threads when tightened and loosened frequently.
I don't build with nickel, so I haven't a clue. But with kanthal I have no problems.
Guys. Friends. Vapers. The 510 pin is engineered too well. I think somehow a very small amount of the pin tip is being eroded away and this stop the solid ohm reading for kanthal. For TC...we...we feel for thee[emoji29]
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Yup, this thread is for authentic Squape R/RS. I think there's another thread devoted to its clones.
I don't notice any erosion on my pins and my issue persists when swapping out with brand new pins I ordered directly from Stattqualm.
I think adjustable center pins have their advantages and disadvantages. Since my devices have spring loaded 510 inputs, adjustable center pins don't matter much to me.
TP is so sensitive & detects subtle variation down to the thousandth of an ohm which influences its performance, and I think having a fixed centerpin is the only sure fire way to eliminate variation in that respect.
TP is so sensitive & detects subtle variation down to the thousandth of an ohm which influences its performance, and I think having a fixed centerpin is the only sure fire way to eliminate variation in that respect.
Erosion can take on the base as well and not just the 510 pin. Logically thinking 2 pieces of metal come into contact. One side is replaced completely but the problem persists. Maybe it's the base. I have a spare base so could check. If u don't have spare base then logically thinking while a new base might fix the problem. The issue itself will reoccur.
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Yeah mine is from C9V/CDV, thing is mine is starting to jump around with Kanthal now, again screwing the 510 pin in and out brings it back to where it should be, emailed Stattqualm and they said cleaning both the pin and the threads it screws into should fix it, ive done that with an inter dental brush and been in the ultrasonic cleaner around 6 times and still no improvement - so at the moment, either im going mad or this thing has an issue which Stattqualm and myself cant work out.
This happens on 2 different DNA mods, one is my VT40 DNA40 with a spring loaded 510 and my other is a Hana DNA30 with a fixed standard 510. Almost ready to give up on the Squape and get something alot cheaper with a fixed 510, although i love the squape.
Had the same issue. Only way I got it fixed was a new 510 pin. Bought 2 spares. Still on the 1st replacement. So far so good.
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I bought 2 spares myself and haven't found much difference between em.
I'm sure cleaning the pin's threads is key but I haven't found much difference as far as adjusting the resistance by tightening or loosening it
I'm sure cleaning the pin's threads is key but I haven't found much difference as far as adjusting the resistance by tightening or loosening it
This thread saved me $200. Thanks all 
. I was on Vaperev ready to buy, but am now wary of using this tank on TC. Hoping the next revision of the [R] and [Rs] fix the issue with the center pin.
. I was on Vaperev ready to buy, but am now wary of using this tank on TC. Hoping the next revision of the [R] and [Rs] fix the issue with the center pin.
This thread saved me $200. Thanks all
This won't assist those without a DNA 200 and eScribe but that combo will give you the DATA to set the 510 perfectly,
Or, as I have said, the times of guessing is in the past. [emoji111]️
Anyone know of any us vedors selling the filling tool? I really want one but don't want to pay 30 for it with shipping.
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