Official Squape R[eloaded] thread!

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SeniorBoy

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The way I build my SQuape and why

I use KGD with a Kanthal wrap around a 3MM screw driver. For literally months I strugled (using the B deck) with a pesky intermittent leak out of the air hole and even a little dribble on the base. I tried everything in the book for over 6 months but still could not fix the intermittent issue. Yes, I switched back to the old W deck and things were fine but I lusted for more with my B deck.

It was like THAT girl in High School. I want you so bad but you remained elusive. /lol /joke

About a month ago I said...what do I have to loose and I remembered an old vid that used the following technique. I'm happy to report that after at least 35 ML and a full month the following build works great with the B deck. No leaks! No dribbles. Great flavor! No gurgling.

I just rewicked my other SQuape in these pics. I cut 4 tiny pieces of KGD and place them in front of each of the 4 juices holes. A little dribble of juice to hold them in place and then the standard S kinda wick. Fill and vape a little. Then the final tweak is gently push the wick away from the air hole sides in the base.

composite-special-wicking-1.jpg


I hope my experiment helps someone.

:)
 
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nj1001

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Only thing missing is the extension kit and maybe
I have a Squape R clone from EHPRO and have a it setup so that it working, however I am not getting a lot of flavor. I have tried a few different juices. Anybody have any idea what could cause the lack of flavor?
I can't say for sure, but it might be related to having a slightly different sized chimney. I've never touched the clones though.
 

fargazer

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Does anyone have the threading / pitch for the Squape R center pin? I've tried the "Kanthal wire" fix for varying resistances under TC, and I messed the threads up enough for me to buy a replacement base. I think a simple tap should fix it, but I don't know what size to use - anyone know before I start experimenting?

Meanwhile I'll confirm the thread issue isn't on the screw - if it is, it's a trivial fix, but I still wouldn't mind a tap and die for that size :)
 

roxynoodle

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Hey guys, has anyone here removed a glass tank from an authentic or clone and got it out without breaking the glass? I was helping someone yesterday with her SqR, an ehpro clone, and discovered one of the o rings that hold the glass is missing or damaged. So of course it leaks from the windows. Being a clone she doesn't want to pay $20 for an authentic glass tube. Any advice would be appreciated so I can try to fix it.

I don't have my SqR anymore, but did still have my demonic Ivogo clone in case anyone ever needed parts. I was able to give her my tank, but it didn't quite screw down all the way. It works, but looks a little goofy.
 

Bhoot

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Never understand the importance of vaping gear looking right. Have a sq with 2x extensions on a istick 100w and could not care less what people think. When friends have a go they under why. I mean serious, single or dual fused Claptons is going to drain ur juice and I am sick of refilling so often. 10ml lasts me the full entire day. Also, tried vaper choice cotton or VCC after months, personally thinks it's the best wick cotton so far. Damn expensive [emoji24]


Bhoot
 

nj1001

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Ugh... new pins, cleaned pins, it doesn't matter. I continue to have variations in resistance based on whether or not I screw my centerpin in or out in 1/4-1/2 turn increments. Sucks. In some respects, having a variable Ω atty can have its advantages, however, all n all, it sucks especially since its simply not supposed to behave that way.

I also ONLY vape Ni200 so its a lot more sensitive to subtle variations in Ω.

What are your thoughts? Bite the bullet and drop for a new base?
 
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drippaboi

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I bought a few new pins direct from statqualm. I also bought an ultrasonic cleaner which with water and a couple drops of dish soap blew my mind as far as how immaculate it gets stuff. Yet despite all of that, my issue persists.

does it clean the gunk off of your ni200 coils?
 

Viluxia

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Im not sure if the Squape or my VT40 is to blame, but i cannot get the TC side of things to play ball despite spending a small fortune on wires lol

Currently have 28awg Ni200, 26awg Titanium and 28awg NiFe30 - all 3 wires do not give me a pleasent experience at all, often its way too harsh or just no vapour at all and hitting temp control in 2 secs or less, very frustrating even if the resistance stays the same.

Below is my Ti 26AWG coil, 4/5 2.5mm measures 0.20 on the VT40, right perfect...so set to 160C and 20W to start with and temp control limit straight away, leave it for a while, select new coil and 0.20 again, and its harsh as heck and hitting around 127c on the display.
Resistance doesnt seem to be the issue at this point as far as i can see. Anyone here using a Hcigar VT40 with an RS in temp mode.

IMG_20151006_230817.jpg
 
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nj1001

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I'm not used to the VTC 40, but what I've heard is with DNA40 & YiHi chips, when using Ti, you have to lower the temp big time.

Are you whacking it at a high wattage?

I have a lot of experience running Ni200 in a squape since its all I've really used over the past year. I do 8 (perfectly evenly spaced) wraps of 28 gauge around a 3mm bit in the Wide deck, set my temp to 450ºF & usually vape at 17W give or take.

Maybe folks with more Ti coil experience can chime in.
 
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Viluxia

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Im not using it at high wattage at all, 20W or below more often than not for Kanthal builds, the problem seems to be that in Temp mode its either the Squape or the VT40 thats not playing ball, i get the exact same with Ni200 and Nife30 wires too - 9 times out of 10 its either way too harsh or it hits the temp limit too quick resulting in a naff vape..its just one of those things im getting frustrated with.
 
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