Ohms meter question

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gpjoe

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So the you get no connection on your mod either?...with the 510 tight? That is odd, but it sounds like your 510 on the tank is too short. Personally I wouldn't use it if I had to loosen the pin to make a connection. Still it's odd because all of mine look like this when fully tight:

201605030938136072.jpg
 

Michael woodward

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So the you get no connection on your mod either?...with the 510 tight? That is odd, but it sounds like your 510 on the tank is too short. Personally I wouldn't use it if I had to loosen the pin to make a connection. Still it's odd because all of mine look like this when fully tight:

View attachment 647487

This is mine.
 

gpjoe

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Looks like a clone. The pin should be gold-plated, and stick out much further. Still, it looks like the pin protrudes enough to work on your regulated mod though.

Sorry, I couldn't be more help, but as I said, I wouldn't use it with the pin loosened. Others might - but not me.

Here's a pic from My Vapor Store of an authentic version:

Screenshot 2017-04-08 at 1.21.30 PM.png
 

Michael woodward

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Looks like a clone. The pin should be gold-plated, and stick out much further. Still, it looks like the pin protrudes enough to work on your regulated mod though.

Sorry, I couldn't be more help, but as I said, I wouldn't use it with the pin loosened. Others might - but not me.

Here's a pic from My Vapor Store of an authentic version:

View attachment 647493

Oh I checked the code and it said it was legit... or do they fake those too?
 

Smoke_too_much

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Hello, I recently bought an ohms meter and as the coil heats up the resistance gets higher...
Is this normal? never used one before so never noticed it.

Thank you.

Hi Michael
Just to respond to your original question, yes completely normal. In fact temperature control mode makes use of the changing resistance to calculate the temperature which is why the mod needs to know the type of wire in your coil to properly calculate it. Some wire like kanthal has little change and therefore can't be used for TC.
 
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David Wolf

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I also left out that one shouldn't use dental floss and human hairs because I never made any assertions about what would make a good/bad material for making coils. No one ever asked that question.
You left out dental floss? I always recommend new vapers not coil with that! Lmao
 

beckdg

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Well, I'll "waste" my time to ensure clarity and safety for newbies, while I guess that you'll waste everyone's time with bad post, trying to be "witty" and making worthless posts.

And yes, you would be somewhat responsible if you provide bad/misleading information and someone that wouldn't know any better misread it.

Nice to see that you don't regard other's safety as important.
This isn't even facepalm worthy.

It's glaringly obvious this guy understands electronics light years beyond every thing else posted up to the point of this quoted post including Baditudes entire complete work.

And someone is going to be ignorant enough to belittle that publicly?

Wow...

Just wow.

Compound that by the fact one someone prides themself on the imaginary knowledge of the same field... of which they're actually not educated.

Baditude once attempted to assert to me that electronics engineering education isn't necessary for one to be a "battery expert".

This is a perfect example of why that formal education is VERY necessary for not only a "battery expert" but for simple understanding of much more mundane concepts than the entirety of understanding of a single chemistry classification of batteries.

@lil_buddy

Please stick around and post often on the subject of our electronics.

Tapatyped
 
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Eskie

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Looks like a clone. The pin should be gold-plated, and stick out much further. Still, it looks like the pin protrudes enough to work on your regulated mod though.

Sorry, I couldn't be more help, but as I said, I wouldn't use it with the pin loosened. Others might - but not me.

Here's a pic from My Vapor Store of an authentic version:

View attachment 647493

Only issue is Michael has a photo of an RDA, not the Limitless RDTA. I know they've offered several RDAs over time, and without knowing which model to go back and refer to it's tough to say the color difference is indicative of authenticity. I saw several different models posted that did have a copper/gold pin, but I can't say I've seen his exact model.

Besides, authentic or knockoff, it's still not making proper contact. An adjustable 510 pin might need to be adjusted in order to work with a wide variety of 510 connectors (yay standardization in the marketplace). @Michael woodward , if you let that 510 out a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, is the positive post on the deck getting loose?
 

Michael woodward

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Only issue is Michael has a photo of an RDA, not the Limitless RDTA. I know they've offered several RDAs over time, and without knowing which model to go back and refer to it's tough to say the color difference is indicative of authenticity. I saw several different models posted that did have a copper/gold pin, but I can't say I've seen his exact model.

Besides, authentic or knockoff, it's still not making proper contact. An adjustable 510 pin might need to be adjusted in order to work with a wide variety of 510 connectors (yay standardization in the marketplace). @Michael woodward , if you let that 510 out a 1/4 or 1/2 turn, is the positive post on the deck getting loose?

all the pins come out the same amount, I used that one because it was closer but that was from the rdta pack :)
It depends... the short pin for the RDA i can turn it about twice fully before its too loose.
The long pin for the RDTA I can turn a little more than half way before its too loose.
I'm pretty sure i'm having problems with my ohms meter now too...
 
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beckdg

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If a coil doesn't read at all, there's a broken contact somewhere.

Too high is you may have a hot spot, something stuck in the coil itself (possibly a clipping when you trimmed the legs) or the wraps are touching in a bad way, as a short would cause your tester and mod to give you the message of "short", which means the coil is touching something that it shouldn't.
This!

:facepalm:.

Is worthy.

Tapatyped
 
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Eskie

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all the pins come out the same amount, I used that one because it was closer but that was from the rdta pack :)
It depends... the short pin for the RDA i can turn it about twice fully before its too loose.
The long pin for the RDTA I can turn a little more than half way before its too loose.
I'm pretty sure i'm having problems with my ohms meter now too...

Oh, that's the mutlipurpose version. My bad. So that pin probably should be gold. OTOH, I saw a photo of a green color changing RDA of theirs that had a silver pin, so I'm at a loss on that particular finding.
 

Michael woodward

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Eskie

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Oh, yeah, the pics I found all show a gold pin. Is the build deck gold, as it should be in the Classic? The other question I would have is do you have any additional decks? There are different interchangeable decks, and I'm wondering if one deck would be OK while this one isn't. That could help nail down where the fault is.

If this was already discussed like 3 pages back, my apologies, I'm still on my first cup of coffee here.
 
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Michael woodward

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Oh, yeah, the pics I found all show a gold pin. Is the build deck gold, as it should be in the Classic? The other question I would have is do you have any additional decks? There are different interchangeable decks, and I'm wondering if one deck would be OK while this one isn't. That could help nail down where the fault is.

If this was already discussed like 3 pages back, my apologies, I'm still on my first cup of coffee here.
Every deck is the same in both of them...
Well I tried it on my mod and it works so... :)
It's just a case of if its safe since it's supposed to be adjustable...
Even if it was discussed, every little helps as I want to move on to mechs soon.. :)
 
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