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Topwater Elvis

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Temperature Control, also known as temp limiting, temp sensing, temp guessing.
Perfect temperature vape every time, huge flavor & cloudz, never a burnt hit...

Your dna power device is considered one of the best TC capabilities, you should take the time to learn how to use it to its full potential.
Use a TC compatible wire type ( Ni, Ti, SS ) and see what you've been missing.
 

Baditude

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Temperature Control, also known as temp limiting, temp sensing, temp guessing.
Perfect temperature vape every time, huge flavor & cloudz, never a burnt hit...

Your DNA power device is considered one of the best TC capabilities, you should take the time to learn how to use it to its full potential.
Use a TC compatible wire type ( Ni, Ti, SS ) and see what you've been missing.
You really had to go there, didn't you? :rolleyes:

miscellaneous-worms-can-tin-opening_a_can_of_worms-opening-jfa2492_low.jpg


@Ephraim Cooper, excuse my comic sarcism. Topwater gave you great information.
 

aldenf

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I'm not sure I understand this conversation. Coil/build resistance is of much less importance than it ever has been. A FAR majority of vapers are using regulated devices and replaceable coil heads/pods. Many former mech users have evolved into the "sub-ohm clearomizer" or skuonking, regulated realm. Remember, it wasn't so long ago that a 30W regulated device was HIGH output. During this time (only four years ago, prehistoric in vape years), if you wanted more than 30W for your dual-coil (or quad-coil) RDA, your only choice was to go the mechanical route. People dripped on mechs because they wanted "more" than a typical (of the day) ProTank could deliver. Today's regulated devices provide far more options than ever to the vaping community.

Except for mechanical users, resistance is of little importance anymore. The exceptions are: 1) keeping your atty above/below your mod's low/high resistance cutoff (generally pretty easy to accomplish today) and 2) trying to hit a specific resistance range for TC play. For instance, my typical single-coil RTA builds in kanthal (KA1) are 26g, 3mm, 8-wrap at approximately 1.2Ω. Change nothing but the type of wire, SS316l in my case, and the resistance drops to approximately 0.65Ω (HALF the resistance!). The KA1 and SS316 both vape the same at the same wattage. Does simply changing the alloy content of my wire make me a "sub-ohm" vaper now? Four years ago, the far majority of people vaping sub-ohm were mech users, and predominantly drippers. Today, generally only MTL/low wattage vapers, using KA1 (and maybe Nichrome) are >1.0Ω.

Coil/build resistance has little to no effect on battery life with regulated vaping. By definition VW chipsets are watts in/watts out (minus chipset efficiency). Meaning that vaping both 1.5Ω and 0.3Ω at 10W (or 50W) will drain the batt(s) at the same rate. What is generally true, however, is that a 0.3Ω coil will probably require more power for a satisfactory vape. Why? Because we vape them very differently. A 1.5Ω coil is most likely used by a low-wattage/MTL vaper. While a 0.3Ω coil is probably being used by an open-draw/high-power/DL vaper. Are their exceptions? There are always exceptions. That same 26g, 3mm, 8-wrap build in nickel (Ni200) will ohm out at approximately 0.08. But it vapes the same, at the same wattage, as the KA1 & SS316l builds.

The takeaway? If you're vaping on regulated devices and not playing with TC, don't concern yourself much with the resistance of your atty. It matters very little. The STYLE of your vaping has far more impact on battery life than the resistance of your atty. The mod's chipset should keep you safe. Vape how YOU like and live with all the details.

Good luck!
 

stols001

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let's talk DIY........:eek:

Extra ideas NOT NEEDED @Asbestos4004 !! Okay we're all in the soup now. :lol::lol:

TC came about (I THIINK?) with concerns with overheating elquids, I THINK, or someone wanted to torture our vaping more by introducing a way to allow mods to "limit" the maximum temperature in a liquid, which is about, per MOST vapers in the neighborhood of 420is F with 450 being considered the "max safe" temperature.

The way that happens is by measuring how a wire changes as it is heated, for example Kanthal can't be used (except with one or two VERY specific mods) you have to use SS, nickel or titanium wire because Kanthal either fluctuates too much or not enough, I can never remember. Titanium and Nickel and ceramic in some instances are all TC materials. A lot of folks prefer SS because you can vape it in wattage mode, too. Also Titanium and Nickel you kinda have to exercise extra care with them or they MAY produce nastiness, like when dry burnt or whatever.

So basically once you have decided on your coil material, well, what I do anyway is like, go ahead and vape it in wattage mode for a bit then see what temperature I sort of like, and then I switch over to TC (should I be so inclined) and I use my "liked" wattage and usually you need a ramp up wattage to get going, you can't start at 0 watts, because like, the coil wouldn't fire and read as heating UP, so you do that, and then you figure out what you want your "terminal" temperature to be, and then set THAT and the mod will basically vape away happily until the coil change measures correctly to your terminal wattage, and after that the mod starts throttling back the wattage so your coil will stay at safe "temp."" Some mods want you to tell it your room temp resistance and lock it so it knows it is the same coil, some even more complicated and awesome (I believe yours is one of them) mods don't even make you lock in the resistance it just sort of keeps track of it, somehow.

DO NOT be deceived and THINK that like, MORE TEMP is better than YOUR TEMP. Believe you me, I wanted to see what 420F "terminal wattage" was like with my MTL vape, and I almost DIED, because my poor little MTL coil just said, "Merde to YOU," and offered me whatever the temperature version of a dry hit, and I was like OMG never doing THAT again, I like to set my ceiling around 320F and I rarely if ever even MEET that, unless I'm absently chain vaping it or driving or something, but it's useful, to a point the POINT though is to tailor your settings to how you like your vape and once you do that, TC starts to get fun.

I know. You're welcome. You do have the PREMIRE chip in your mod for TC vaping so it might be fun to play with it, it is well loved by many a vaper these days. :)

Anna
 

Baditude

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Letitia

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I'm not sure I understand this conversation. Coil/build resistance is of much less importance than it ever has been. A FAR majority of vapers are using regulated devices and replaceable coil heads/pods. Many former mech users have evolved into the "sub-ohm clearomizer" or skuonking, regulated realm. Remember, it wasn't so long ago that a 30W regulated device was HIGH output. During this time (only four years ago, prehistoric in vape years), if you wanted more than 30W for your dual-coil (or quad-coil) RDA, your only choice was to go the mechanical route. People dripped on mechs because they wanted "more" than a typical (of the day) ProTank could deliver. Today's regulated devices provide far more options than ever to the vaping community.

Except for mechanical users, resistance is of little importance anymore. The exceptions are: 1) keeping your atty above/below your mod's low/high resistance cutoff (generally pretty easy to accomplish today) and 2) trying to hit a specific resistance range for TC play. For instance, my typical single-coil RTA builds in kanthal (KA1) are 26g, 3mm, 8-wrap at approximately 1.2Ω. Change nothing but the type of wire, SS316l in my case, and the resistance drops to approximately 0.65Ω (HALF the resistance!). The KA1 and SS316 both vape the same at the same wattage. Does simply changing the alloy content of my wire make me a "sub-ohm" vaper now? Four years ago, the far majority of people vaping sub-ohm were mech users, and predominantly drippers. Today, generally only MTL/low wattage vapers, using KA1 (and maybe Nichrome) are >1.0Ω.

Coil/build resistance has little to no effect on battery life with regulated vaping. By definition VW chipsets are watts in/watts out (minus chipset efficiency). Meaning that vaping both 1.5Ω and 0.3Ω at 10W (or 50W) will drain the batt(s) at the same rate. What is generally true, however, is that a 0.3Ω coil will probably require more power for a satisfactory vape. Why? Because we vape them very differently. A 1.5Ω coil is most likely used by a low-wattage/MTL vaper. While a 0.3Ω coil is probably being used by an open-draw/high-power/DL vaper. Are their exceptions? There are always exceptions. That same 26g, 3mm, 8-wrap build in nickel (Ni200) will ohm out at approximately 0.08. But it vapes the same, at the same wattage, as the KA1 & SS316l builds.

The takeaway? If you're vaping on regulated devices and not playing with TC, don't concern yourself much with the resistance of your atty. It matters very little. The STYLE of your vaping has far more impact on battery life than the resistance of your atty. The mod's chipset should keep you safe. Vape how YOU like and live with all the details.

Good luck!
How is resistance not important? I use regulated devices but still have definite resistance preferences. Resistance still matters you just don't have to do the math, mod does that for you.
 

aldenf

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How is resistance not important? I use regulated devices but still have definite resistance preferences. Resistance still matters you just don't have to do the math, mod does that for you.

Understood. What you're describing is your preference for a specific coil geometry or build. It has little to nothing to do with the actual resistance of the coil(s). As in my previous post, I prefer 26g, 3mm, 8 wrap single coils on most of my RTAs. With the wire I have on hand my coil would ohm out at 1.2Ω, 0.9Ω, 0.65Ω, 0.4Ω or 0.08Ω. If I put the same power (wattage) through all of the different wire types, I get the same vape, regardless of their individual resistances. What we prefer is the coil geometry not the resistance. :)
 

aldenf

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In my experience this is simply not true. To me the same wattage on different resistance coils is a fail. One will hit my sweet spot but the others will be too warm or cool unless I am misunderstanding your point.

:danger:This topic is pushing into the hobbyist level of vaping. Most vapers don't need to know this stuff. For most peoples' purposes, all we need know is what we like and what we don't like. If we use stated coil head resistances to differentiate between all the options, that's fine. ;)

That being said...

Physics tells us that coil resistance, in and of itself, does not cause what you are describing. If you're referring to different resistance coil heads for your clearomizer, then you are almost certainly experiencing different coil geometry and wicking between the different heads. If the same metal alloy is used between the heads, then, by definition, the coil geometry must change in order to change the resistance. What about the coil geometry changes? Wire thickness (gauge), inside diameter of the coil, length of the wire (number of wraps), etc. The mass of the coil changes, along with the specific heat properties and surface area. These differences usually accompany a change in wicking too. You may identify the different coil heads by their stated resistances. What you're experiencing in vape quality, however, is a result of the different coil geometries.

Imagine a 1.8Ω Nautilus BVC coil head. These utilize kanthal wire for the coils. If we leave the coil head exactly as is but change the metal alloy used to SS316l, we would have an approximately 0.9Ω coil head that vapes exactly the same at equivalent power levels.
 
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Don29palms

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Imagine a 1.8Ω Nautilus BVC coil head. These utilize kanthal wire for the coils. If we leave the coil head exactly as is but change the metal alloy used to SS316l, we would have an approximately 0.9Ω coil head that vapes exactly the same at equivalent power levels.
Ummmmmm............no. A .9 ohm ss coil is not going to vape the same at 10 watts as a 1.8 ohm kanthal coil at 10 watts.
 

aldenf

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Ummmmmm............no. A .9 ohm ss coil is not going to vape the same at 10 watts as a 1.8 ohm kanthal coil at 10 watts.

So you're suggesting that my RTAs w/ single-coil 26g, 3mm, 8-wrap builds don't vape the same with both SS316l and KA1 @ 13W? If this is what you're suggesting, my experience says otherwise. They vape almost identically. (As does T1, Ni200 & N80.) Physics also suggests they would vape the same. Even steam-engine suggests they would vape the same. All other variables being the same, all the metal alloys we commonly use should vape the same, watt-for-watt. We use other properties to choose our favorite alloy.
 

untar

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To clear up some of this confusion about TC (and scrape the bottom of that can of worms :lol:)
What TC is not:
-
a mode to prevent dry hits (though it can be used like that. I can also use a hammer to open a can of worms but that doesn't make it a can opener)
-a mode to not overheat the liquid (see above)
Those are just side effects of what TC can do as well, not how or why most people are using it. There will be some that do but that doesn't mean TC can be reduced to just that, ignoring the whole enjoyment part.

What TC is:
an additional vape mode that let's you set a maximum temperature for certain coil materials, it let's you hunt for your flavor sweet spot in a different way.

Diverse tastes means different modes will all have their fanbase, let's not forget that for most vapers that is their primary focus (though the FDA seems to have a different opinion
FailFish.png
), be it mechs, regulated/unregulated or TC.

Now go on, I can see a cross with my name on it over there
4Head.png
 

Letitia

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:danger:This topic is pushing into the hobbyist level of vaping. Most vapers don't need to know this stuff. For most peoples' purposes, all we need know is what we like and what we don't like. If we use stated coil head resistances to differentiate between all the options, that's fine. ;)

That being said...

Physics tells us that coil resistance, in and of itself, does not cause what you are describing. If you're referring to different resistance coil heads for your clearomizer, then you are almost certainly experiencing different coil geometry and wicking between the different heads. If the same metal alloy is used between the heads, then, by definition, the coil geometry must change in order to change the resistance. What about the coil geometry changes? Wire thickness (gauge), inside diameter of the coil, length of the wire (number of wraps), etc. The mass of the coil changes, along with the specific heat properties and surface area. These differences usually accompany a change in wicking too. You may identify the different coil heads by their stated resistances. What you're experiencing in vape quality, however, is a result of the different coil geometries.

Imagine a 1.8Ω Nautilus BVC coil head. These utilize kanthal wire for the coils. If we leave the coil head exactly as is but change the metal alloy used to SS316l, we would have an approximately 0.9Ω coil head that vapes exactly the same at equivalent power levels.
We shall simply have to agree our perceptions are vastly different on this point.
 

Don29palms

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So you're suggesting that my RTAs w/ single-coil 26g, 3mm, 8-wrap builds don't vape the same with both SS316l and KA1 @ 13W? If this is what you're suggesting, my experience says otherwise. They vape almost identically. (As does T1, Ni200 & N80.) Physics also suggests they would vape the same. Even steam-engine suggests they would vape the same. All other variables being the same, all the metal alloys we commonly use should vape the same, watt-for-watt. We use other properties to choose our favorite alloy.
I'm not suggesting anything. I flat out called BS on you.
 
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