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OK, here you go, I think there might be old pics of it built up still on this site somewhere, maybe not.We need a photo
That's the old V2 switch parts along with 18350 and 18500 tubes. Also an adjustable (upgrade) end connector pin. The GG AFS V2 atomiser was in the same box, so I put it in the pic.
OK, here you go, I think there might be old pics of it built up still on this site somewhere, maybe not.
That's the old V2 switch parts along with 18350 and 18500 tubes. Also an adjustable (upgrade) end connector pin. The GG AFS V2 atomiser was in the same box, so I put it in the pic.
Beautiful, Im envious. I have an old GUS from around the same era. I always wanted one of these PAPs
For reg cleaning, I use soap and water (Dawn is real good) to brighten up brass when it get oxidized to the point I get low performance/ warm switch, I use a very soft and non abrasive cleaner by Weimans. Its supposed to be good for food items, so I can use it on my DT.
For stainless steel I just use soap and water and acetone on threads and high percentage alcohol where there might be contact with orings.
If my Stainless gets real dirty or I use one of those sunshine cloths but if it has engravings you have to be careful because even the sunshine cloths have micro abrasives and will eventually smooth out light engravings/logos.
For used items I get that are dull and have lots of surface scuffs, I wash in hot water, scrub threads, then I take some autosol which is lightly abrasive, rub it trying to follow the brushed finish as not to mess it up.
I know that many used autosol on mirror finished items but Ive always been a bit hesitant. I have that old GUS that is mirror finished, it has lots of surface micro scuffs, but am nervous about making swirl marks or any rub marks on it. I do use a sunshine cloth on it and figure, I can live with the "character"
Getting rid of surface scuffs on brushed devices I just finish the autosol rubbing, with a scotchbrite pad wrapping it around and turning as evenly as I can to mask the scuffs.
For stainless steel I just use soap and water and acetone on threads and high percentage alcohol where there might be contact with orings.
If my Stainless gets real dirty or I use one of those sunshine cloths but if it has engravings you have to be careful because even the sunshine cloths have micro abrasives and will eventually smooth out light engravings/logos.
For used items I get that are dull and have lots of surface scuffs, I wash in hot water, scrub threads, then I take some autosol which is lightly abrasive, rub it trying to follow the brushed finish as not to mess it up.
I know that many used autosol on mirror finished items but Ive always been a bit hesitant. I have that old GUS that is mirror finished, it has lots of surface micro scuffs, but am nervous about making swirl marks or any rub marks on it. I do use a sunshine cloth on it and figure, I can live with the "character"
Getting rid of surface scuffs on brushed devices I just finish the autosol rubbing, with a scotchbrite pad wrapping it around and turning as evenly as I can to mask the scuffs.
I use a dremel and white polishing rouge to remove deep scratches from copper or brass mods.
You can "re brush" it with a scotchbrite pad to get that factory brushed finish.
Ive always been a bit nervous about the dremel treatment, so many pads to chose from. Do you have an attachment you could show us that is good but not going to remove half the thickness of our tubes? 'Cause I can just see myself ending up with a real light tube
Ive always been a bit nervous about the dremel treatment, so many pads to chose from. Do you have an attachment you could show us that is good but not going to remove half the thickness of our tubes? 'Cause I can just see myself ending up with a real light tube
Use the felt pad and a stick of white polish (rouge).
It will remove scratches and mirror polish it. Its a polish so its abrasive but thats the only way to remove a scratch.
Found my bag of spare switches, I wonder if anyone can ID them
Hmmm.... I think the 2nd from right might be a GP PAPs, 2.5 ?
Could you flip them over and show us other side?
Got this little guy 2010-2011 (don't remember exactly when)
And yes, that's the mod that fell out of a duck blind & spent a week at the bottom of Ogden Bay.
I still have it and use it quite often.
This one isn't quite as old, but is still a great blast from the past.
And yes, that's the mod that fell out of a duck blind & spent a week at the bottom of Ogden Bay.
I still have it and use it quite often.
This one isn't quite as old, but is still a great blast from the past.
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Meh, KM3 clone came in today for my P+ and will not thread into the flat cap properly. Wouldn't be the first atty that didn't fit right into that 510.... back to the drawing board.
Hello Orphans. @kiba , did you ever figure out what those switches are? I curious.
Here are some photos of my little 16mm mechs. Was sharing info on another thread with someone looking for 20mm and 16mm mechs.
Here are some photos of my little 16mm mechs. Was sharing info on another thread with someone looking for 20mm and 16mm mechs.
Yes, I think it's oblivion, chi you, paps, caravela
Heres what Im enjoying today. I finally got the crowning touch. I got a beautiful DT from MCR MODs.
Origen RTA, JM MODS tube, GUS top cap and PAPs V4 switch.
Origen RTA, JM MODS tube, GUS top cap and PAPs V4 switch.
NexTiny topping GUS MODS "Warrior of Light"
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