One more Sub-Ohm question

[LycanFury]

Hi Guys,

I know you all must be really bugged with people asking so much about sub-ohm vaping, i justify it as it same as a pissing contest, all men would love to take part in it at least once.

bought a
> mech mod sigelei 19,
> Panasonic 18650 PD battery with 10 AMP limit.
> Trident clone.

I know they are all clones... can we skip that part of advice, please.

Anyway, as far as the setup is concerned. I made a dual micro coil with 28 awg kanthal coming up to 0.5 ohms. I calculated the Amps to come up to 8.4 amps, so i have take care of the safety part. My concern is the button gets too hot. Is that supposed to be expected? and Is there a way to avoid this?,

Please, Don't tell me "reg-ohms".

Thanks
LF

 

[t8kiteasy]

You should take shorter draws on it,for instance,if you were taking say,a 5 second draw,make it a 3 second draw instead.The shorter the hit you take will cut down on how warm/hot the batt. gets.With the Trident,yes and it's clone,you can adjust the airholes to the larger so taking a shorter draw,and still getting a ton of vapor,is no problem.Don't chain vape it either this is another way to stress the batt. and get it hot.Let the battery rest in between a few draws.

 

[LycanFury]

Thanks t8kiteasy. As soon as I saw your user name, I was like " this person does not need to say anything, the user name says it all" lol

 

[t8kiteasy]

lol,

 

[ClippinWings]

Hi Guys,

I know you all must be really bugged with people asking so much about sub-ohm vaping, i justify it as it same as a pissing contest, all men would love to take part in it at least once.

bought a
> mech mod Sigelei 19,
> Panasonic 18650 PD battery with 10 AMP limit.
> Trident clone.

I know they are all clones... can we skip that part of advice, please.

Anyway, as far as the setup is concerned. I made a dual micro coil with 28 awg kanthal coming up to 0.5 ohms. I calculated the Amps to come up to 8.4 amps, so i have take care of the safety part. My concern is the button gets too hot. Is that supposed to be expected? and Is there a way to avoid this?,

Please, Don't tell me "reg-ohms".

Thanks
LF

If it's the button only, getting hot...
Clean your contacts. Heat is generated by resistance... this can happen sometimes with bad conductivity in a switch due to tarnish, corrosion, poor mechanical design or just plain gunk... clean it up good with alcohol and maybe give it a bit of Noalax.

If the battery is getting hot...
That's a serious issue and I would suggest NOT vaping using the setup you have until you resolve where the short is (torn battery casing?)

 

[Papadragon]

Have you put the washer in the switch yet ! If not you have bad conductivity and posable arcing can happen the switch is junk and needs modded sorry ! Put the washer in mine a smaller spring o ring to shorten throw and all is good

 

[LycanFury]

No torn battery casing, just checked. i shall look at the button too.

 

[LycanFury]

can you please put some photos to show the placement of o-ring. thanks.

 

[LycanFury]

Just cleaned the contacts with alcohol and a cleaning cloth. it worked even at a 7 sec draw button does not get that hot, it gets a bit warm, but its better. Thanks a ton to all.

Cheers!

 

[vapdivrr]

personally with builds that low I would use a battery with safe chemistry. the aw/imr 18650's 1600mah. they also are rated better for high drain applications.

 

[ClippinWings]

personally with builds that low I would use a battery with safe chemistry. the aw/imr 18650's 1600mah. they also are rated better for high drain applications.

The PDs are fine at 8amps... actually they are fine for continuous discharge up to 10amps... and can be used for 5-6 second bursts up to 18 amps(not that I'd suggest that)

 

[niczgreat]

personally with builds that low I would use a battery with safe chemistry. the aw/imr 18650's 1600mah. they also are rated better for high drain applications.

The battery she's using is a 10amp continuous with a 16 amp burst. She is well within tolerance, I've gone down to .27 Ohm on that battery with no issues.

The only reason for her to use the AW1600 or the MNKE 1600 or the Sony 30 amp is that these are lower resistance batteries that for a shorter time will generate higher voltage under load.

Safety wise she's fine.

If she wants to totally avoid heat, my Wooden Bogger Box Standard Bottom Feeder went down to .27 Ohm and nothing got hot whatsover.

By the way that battery is giving me tremendous vape life. After around 5-6 hours it's only down to 3.75V and that's heavy vaping on a .51 Ohm Atomizer.

I have two more on order from FastTech

 

[st0nedpenguin]

They'll put out a higher voltage under load throughout a full charge, not just initially.

 

[vapdivrr]

The PDs are fine at 8amps... actually they are fine for continuous discharge up to 10amps... and can be used for 5-6 second bursts up to 18 amps(not that I'd suggest that)

im sure that battery is fine and isn't the problem, I just think its better to have a little more safety margin added, and the aw/imr 1600 gives you that. imo you can never over kill when it comes to battery safety. ultimately the issue is not her battery but maybe airflow or a contact problem

 

[vapdivrr]

The battery she's using is a 10amp continuous with a 16 amp burst. She is well within tolerance, I've gone down to .27 Ohm on that battery with no issues.

The only reason for her to use the AW1600 or the MNKE 1600 or the Sony 30 amp is that these are lower resistance batteries that for a shorter time will generate higher voltage under load.

Safety wise she's fine.

If she wants to totally avoid heat, my Wooden Bogger Box Standard Bottom Feeder went down to .27 Ohm and nothing got hot whatsover.

By the way that battery is giving me tremendous vape life. After around 5-6 hours it's only down to 3.75V and that's heavy vaping on a .51 Ohm Atomizer.

sounds like a promotion?

 

[ClippinWings]

im sure that battery is fine and isn't the problem, I just think its better to have a little more safety margin added, and the aw/imr 1600 gives you that. imo you can never over kill when it comes to battery safety. ultimately the issue is not her battery but maybe airflow or a contact problem

Absolutely a conductivity issue...

I used to be an AW fan... But the lower mah killed me... Plus the discharge curve on the PDs is better IMO

Sent from my mobile, using Tapatalk... so ignore the typos.

 

[Jazzi Mike]

Subohm is wack!

 

[niczgreat]

sounds like a promotion?

I should clarify.

I specify my wood APV because on a metal k100 I've had the heat from the RBA absorb through the unit and heat it all up including the battery.

In my opinion Wood is superior to metal in high wattage vaping because it doesn't conduct heat. It is more fragile and bulkier which is a drawback. On the other hand shorts from exposed batteries [wrapping Wearing Off] don't happen on a Wood Box. I have batteries that I'd be scared to use on a metal tube rocket.

One of the problems with the forums is that individuals are not specific enough about hardware and configurations. I don't like to make a blanket statement.

 

[gammaxgoblin]

I should clarify.

I specify my wood APV because on a metal k100 I've had the heat from the RBA absorb through the unit and heat it all up including the battery.

In my opinion Wood is superior to metal in high wattage vaping because it doesn't conduct heat. It is more fragile and bulkier which is a drawback. On the other hand shorts from exposed batteries [wrapping Wearing Off] don't happen on a Wood Box. I have batteries that I'd be scared to use on a metal tube rocket.

One of the problems with the forums is that individuals are not specific enough about hardware and configurations. I don't like to make a blanket statement.

Does anyone make a ceramic insulating ring/510 extension to squash the heat transfer from the atty to a metal mech mod? If not it would be nice!

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 4

 

[sawlight]

Also put some Nolax on the threads, this will help with conductivity through out the entire mod and might help with some of the hot spots.