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I was also thinking if doing petarks method for the coil not all coiled together but I have some 3mm tubing at work that slips into the wick hole on these agas. I can do my wrap around that attach coil remove tha and prepare my fat wick an roll solid until it slips into the coil. Thinking that would give me a nice result. I did do petarks method before bit both how the wicks are being made now. Anyone try this?
I haven't intentionally, not to the letter. But I have done some rather loose coils that seem pretty close to his method, but not without oxidizing. It seemed to work fine if the surface tension kept the coil wet.
I use the miniDID with fill hole plugged and lay it on its side repeatedly with no leaks. When I used the cheaper atty's I had to leave the fill hole unplugged for some reason or else it dried up and I would get leaks on its side. I honestly dont know what the dif may be. I used a small center tube in each wick and coils were the same pitch, gauge, and metal. I used the drill bit tech on both. I left a small amount of space between wick and hole to release vaccume. The only difference I can see is that the wick hole on the DUD was 2mm and the hole on DID was slightly larger. I think it was BJ who mentioned that wick was optimal at 2mm and anything smaller wicked less.(anything larger wicked at same pace). So on my DID the wick is 2mm while its smaller on the DUD to allow space for vaccume release. Not certain thats gonna help anyone but I wanted to mention it in case.
I also dont wrap wire all the way aroud the posts and i wrap opposite way the nut tightens so it backs the coil off the wick slightly to avoid tightening the coil wrap and creating dead(cold) spots
I also dont wrap wire all the way aroud the posts and i wrap opposite way the nut tightens so it backs the coil off the wick slightly to avoid tightening the coil wrap and creating dead(cold) spots
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so did some reading, and found my answer
studiovap i thank you for posting this
"85mm by 37.5mm for a wick with a center hole (this does not require a tank breather fill screw is in place) and has a small gap around the wickhole to reduce adhesive forces in the juice between wick and hole. Wick diameter 3.0-3.2mm, wick internal hole 18g fill needle size."
coiled a 3mm ss tube, monted it. prepared my wick to studiovaps suggestions, getting a clean 1 ohm.
filled with juice. nom nom nom lol pure bliss (most used word for a good vaping device i notice so i follow suit) here are pics of the coil all glowing evenly lookin tidy too
28g kanthal was used with 500 mesh
thanks rick , emonty, and studiovap for the help
studiovap i thank you for posting this
"85mm by 37.5mm for a wick with a center hole (this does not require a tank breather fill screw is in place) and has a small gap around the wickhole to reduce adhesive forces in the juice between wick and hole. Wick diameter 3.0-3.2mm, wick internal hole 18g fill needle size."
coiled a 3mm ss tube, monted it. prepared my wick to studiovaps suggestions, getting a clean 1 ohm.
filled with juice. nom nom nom lol pure bliss (most used word for a good vaping device i notice so i follow suit) here are pics of the coil all glowing evenly lookin tidy too
28g kanthal was used with 500 mesh
thanks rick , emonty, and studiovap for the help
He'll yeah asdaq it's been a while since I've genied it up. Sturm gtank was the last one i had and I sold that in April. I been out and about pocketed and no problems at all with ill hole covered with screw. Freakin awesome. I remember being at a bar vaping on the line and my ss don got pretty trashed next day k notice my jeans all stained with juice, my shirt, my jaket, hadn't taken a geni out since then lol
3mm thick 500SS wick is awsome. I now use 28g kanthal, which also holds up better than thinner coils to cleaning/dry burns. I used to use tightly twisted 32g, nice but the surface got gunked up faster and was harder to clean. Used 30g but only had a couple feet and found it ok. But 28g is where it's at. It does take a sec to heat up fully but I get a warmer deeper vape because it keeps the wick at temp longer.
As far as the plug hole thing, I go unplugged... when not transporting. It's a bit inconvenient pulling the red silicon plug that came with my AC9, but I'm used to it now as habit. I have started drilling out the the threads of my CHobra, Dud, Mini Dud, and AGT fill hole and putting in a plug. Sure the difference is more like a cork than a screw top on a bottle, but it's just easier to pop in a plug than try to twist in a tiny screw with my fingers.
As far as the plug hole thing, I go unplugged... when not transporting. It's a bit inconvenient pulling the red silicon plug that came with my AC9, but I'm used to it now as habit. I have started drilling out the the threads of my CHobra, Dud, Mini Dud, and AGT fill hole and putting in a plug. Sure the difference is more like a cork than a screw top on a bottle, but it's just easier to pop in a plug than try to twist in a tiny screw with my fingers.
What I used for a filler plug in my chdid was one of those loose .... plugs that come in condom cups. I cut the tip to fit and then cut off 2 sides on the top so it was flush with the mesh and top cap. It kind of looked like a "T" when I was done. It fit nicely and didn't leak when laying down and is a whole lot easier to take out than a screw.
Happy for you Urqu! ...nom nom
Is the 28 available anywhere other than E-bay at a good price for 100ft spool?
Is the 28 available anywhere other than E-bay at a good price for 100ft spool?
I would like to add a couple hints:
First of all I got a good stainless steel screw in the size that just fit the wick hole. Cleaned the threads with a brush.
I heated my Kanthal a bit with a cigarette lighter, then I got my AWG 29 Kanthal A and wrapped the coil around that screw - my target was 1.5 Ohm with the pictured setup (used on a Provari at 4 Volts).
You can make very tidy and dense coils that way.
Then, I screw the coil with the screw still in it to the atomizer. I adjusted the nuts on the positive post to match the height of my coil.
Then I fixed the coil to the posts - the screw is still in there. I tried to not get a slant in the setup, the screw and coil are straight up from the wick hole. In the picture below you can see that the mesh is now slanted against the center pole, but that was because I had to fix it in a hurry when the positive coil connection came lose after a while.
Then I removed the screw by just screwing it out, leaving the coil in place.
Heated the coil a couple of times without a wick. Measured the ohms - 1.5
Then I made my wick - sorry, forgot to note the dimensions of this one, but it's an almost solid wick. I measured the wick against the coil, of course, not against the wick hole.
The last step is to insert the wick into the premade coil. There will be (or at least, should be) a tiny gap between the wick and the wick hole wall. It should be a tight fit, you will have a bit of a struggle to get it in. Don't use force, just patience.
Fire and adjust.
Enjoy =)
First of all I got a good stainless steel screw in the size that just fit the wick hole. Cleaned the threads with a brush.
I heated my Kanthal a bit with a cigarette lighter, then I got my AWG 29 Kanthal A and wrapped the coil around that screw - my target was 1.5 Ohm with the pictured setup (used on a Provari at 4 Volts).
You can make very tidy and dense coils that way.
Then, I screw the coil with the screw still in it to the atomizer. I adjusted the nuts on the positive post to match the height of my coil.
Then I fixed the coil to the posts - the screw is still in there. I tried to not get a slant in the setup, the screw and coil are straight up from the wick hole. In the picture below you can see that the mesh is now slanted against the center pole, but that was because I had to fix it in a hurry when the positive coil connection came lose after a while.
Then I removed the screw by just screwing it out, leaving the coil in place.
Heated the coil a couple of times without a wick. Measured the ohms - 1.5
Then I made my wick - sorry, forgot to note the dimensions of this one, but it's an almost solid wick. I measured the wick against the coil, of course, not against the wick hole.
The last step is to insert the wick into the premade coil. There will be (or at least, should be) a tiny gap between the wick and the wick hole wall. It should be a tight fit, you will have a bit of a struggle to get it in. Don't use force, just patience.
Fire and adjust.
Enjoy =)
Just somthing I've used on the AGAs to eradicate to long open air wire run from the positive nut to the coilso did some reading, and found my answer
studiovap i thank you for posting this
"85mm by 37.5mm for a wick with a center hole (this does not require a tank breather fill screw is in place) and has a small gap around the wickhole to reduce adhesive forces in the juice between wick and hole. Wick diameter 3.0-3.2mm, wick internal hole 18g fill needle size."
coiled a 3mm ss tube, monted it. prepared my wick to studiovaps suggestions, getting a clean 1 ohm.
filled with juice. nom nom nom lol pure bliss (most used word for a good vaping device i notice so i follow suit) here are pics of the coil all glowing evenly lookin tidy too
thanks rick , emonty, and studiovap for the help
6mm M3 stainless steel washers, 2.2mm #500 mesh 55mm wick 30g 3/4 wrap 1.1Ohms, no hotspots no setup issues 33cents spent
Sweet on the Paps in 18500 mode.
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thanks for the replies buddies
so emonty 80 mm max on the Mini DiD, that's a 2.5 mm wick hole
80/2.5 = 32/1
that translates into 112 mm on the standard 3.5 mm hole did ( 32/1 wick mm/hole mm ratio)
seems to more or less fit with what studio vap has found?
since i'm pressed for time these days I'll probably just stick to 32/1 across the board
would most agree ~100 mm is the max for the ZAP minus insulator? (100/3.2)
so emonty 80 mm max on the Mini DiD, that's a 2.5 mm wick hole
80/2.5 = 32/1
that translates into 112 mm on the standard 3.5 mm hole did ( 32/1 wick mm/hole mm ratio)
seems to more or less fit with what studio vap has found?
since i'm pressed for time these days I'll probably just stick to 32/1 across the board
would most agree ~100 mm is the max for the ZAP minus insulator? (100/3.2)
I believe the mini DID is 2.8mm, at least mine is LOL.
Also I have tried upto 160mm #500 in the DID standard, and there are so many factors affecting wicking I'm not sure I'm going to settle on any optimal size quite yet. These are some but there are many more.
The gap around the wick does make significant difference to the wicking, so 3.3mm is a maximum for me at present, a realy solid wick has great capillary action, but doesn't hold as much of a reservoir of juice as a semi solid wick.
A semi solid wick also makes use of volcanic rise to a much greater extent thanks a hollow or a solid wick.
The temperature of your juice massively affects wicking especially with high VG content.
This is why after much testing of a seeming great setup while warmed up can then lead to dry hits and burnt taste the next morning (if you don't damage the setup while it's parched and cold it can come good as it warms the juice.
What I'm saying is its all a compromise, all variables in organized chaos.
I live in Australia on the sunshine coast and it's pretty warm at the moment so this affects how I setup my gennies, If I was back in old England I'm sure the setup would be different.
At present the semi solid wick is king for me in the DID standard and I'm using #500 around 80-90mm on a 3.2-3.3mm wick.
Clear as mud? LOL
I don't own a mini so I was mis remembering
I hear you man, the variables are endless, but as I have a whole other world of variables that's bringing me to near insanity right now (errr, where would I like to move/work for the next 4-6 years) I'm trying to target my OCD a bit
you find that semi sold = with a center hole = no center hole but more loosely wrapped, controlling for material?
I did manage to get ungodly amounts of mesh into the ZAP and DID but had shorts galore, which I attribute to the abuse I gave the wicks while rolling. Seems for me I tend to over tighten/stuff as rule, even the 110 mm wick I end up having to unroll and loosen up. So I just want to set a working upper limit for myself because left to my own devices I'll cram 200 mm in there without breaking a sweat lol
so to unmuddy that nonsense and my ghetto hypothesis:
80/2.8= 28.6
100/3.5= 28.6
man emonty, you love those skinny chicks don't you
I hear you man, the variables are endless, but as I have a whole other world of variables that's bringing me to near insanity right now (errr, where would I like to move/work for the next 4-6 years) I'm trying to target my OCD a bit
you find that semi sold = with a center hole = no center hole but more loosely wrapped, controlling for material?
I did manage to get ungodly amounts of mesh into the ZAP and DID but had shorts galore, which I attribute to the abuse I gave the wicks while rolling. Seems for me I tend to over tighten/stuff as rule, even the 110 mm wick I end up having to unroll and loosen up. So I just want to set a working upper limit for myself because left to my own devices I'll cram 200 mm in there without breaking a sweat lol
so to unmuddy that nonsense and my ghetto hypothesis:
80/2.8= 28.6
100/3.5= 28.6
man emonty, you love those skinny chicks don't you
@Cyrus "you find that semi sold = with a center hole = no center hole but more loosely wrapped, controlling for material? "
Semi solid to me is tiny to no center hole more loosely wrapped, kinda spongy
The hole in the center is either going to flow juice or vent the tank, probably not both at the same time, fill screw in with a center hole is not possibly for me with my high watts vaping style, so I let the wick take care of wicking and use my adjustable tank breather screw to adjust for optimum ( if that exists ) tank venting verses controlled leaking when left on its side for a few mins.
I feel you on the work/place to live/challenging young'uns bit, I'm right there myself.
What a healthy escape a bit of OCD genesis tinkering can be LOL
Semi solid to me is tiny to no center hole more loosely wrapped, kinda spongy
The hole in the center is either going to flow juice or vent the tank, probably not both at the same time, fill screw in with a center hole is not possibly for me with my high watts vaping style, so I let the wick take care of wicking and use my adjustable tank breather screw to adjust for optimum ( if that exists ) tank venting verses controlled leaking when left on its side for a few mins.
I feel you on the work/place to live/challenging young'uns bit, I'm right there myself.
What a healthy escape a bit of OCD genesis tinkering can be LOL
My latest experiment was 30 awg 80/20 nichrome, 5 wraps (viewed from any angle, except where the post is, which would be 6). I'm using 635 SS rolled tightly. It has a bit of clearance in the 2mm-ish hole in my DUDs. I haven't measured resistance after I used/seasoned it, probably in the 1.3ohm range. I can not make it short, even with loose/frayed ends (those who have used 635 will realize there's no getting around these).
I'm running 3.4v right now, which is 8.9 watts. I'm loving this setup, as even my Rawr antidote (blueberry/lemonade) is strong in flavor, and you can chain vape all day without a dry hit. Some of my other coils would lack flavor or taste burned. I'm happy with the coil count since I have been unable to even intentionally induce a short by pulling the wick in and out of the coil, and even scoring it with a knife. I also don't get a lackluster first pull, as I've got enough wattage to start atomizing quickly.
One thing I learned - when coiling your wire, pull the wick in to almost touching at the positive/center post. Wrap the wire opposite the direction the screw/bolt tightens on the center post. When you tighten it, it will very slightly push out, but you'll have a very short wire path before it coils around the wick. You'll avoid a major hot-spot problem many have with the wire being too long before hitting the wick. Also, with lower gauge wire, you can wrap a bit tighter around the wick (not pinching it, but resting against it all the way around) which avoids the pitfall of a lack of flavor and/or burned fluid. studiovap's wonderful pictures illustrate what 'just right' means when it comes to coil tightness against the wick. Touching, but not deforming the wick.
I've also started spreading my coil out a bit more across the wick, but still nearer to the air hole in the side of the top casing. I would get dry hits or weakly flavored hits when I spread the coil across the whole range of the wick. Having a coil wrap over more area of the wick, but concentrated where the air would be drawing made that problem go away.
I'm now at 100mm of 635 in a 2mm wick hole, with room to spare around it. The only gotcha is you need to (before it's broken in) put a few drops of liquid on the top of the wick and burn a bit to get the wicking started. Once it's going, you can empty out the tank and fill another fluid without dripping on the top of the wick, and it'll wick like nobody's business. I'm hand rolling the wick until tight, then putting it between two solid but textured surfaces, and rolling it in the same (tightening) direction 5-10 times to get these solid core wicks. You can run it a few times in the opposite direction after to loosen it up just slightly, and get that solid yet springy wick studiovap has mentioned. I've had great success with this when dealing with 100% VG liquid that I used to get no flavor from/dry pulls.
Regarding wick sizing, there doesn't seem to be a huge difference between the 100mm and 80mm wicks I have running into two of my DUDs. I think I've hit a point of diminishing returns and am now wasting excess wick. You'll know when you get to that point when you encounter no dry pulls. Beyond that stage, having even more fluid as a buffer is pointless. With how expensive 635 is, I'm considering stepping down.
One last note, I'm using a cheap $18 ego-t 18650 mod. I'm running regulated, which is 3.3-3.4v (with my batteries, under load, is generally 3.4v). No mechanical mod is necessary. I'm using cheap DUDs, and studiovap is using much better quality units with much larger wick holes. He can run higher wattage output with less coils and get good output. I run lower wattage with more coils (and higher ohms), but am having good luck. Without comparing A/B it's hard to know how much better his setup is, but my point is having a regulated/lower wattage output device than a mechanical mod doesn't mean you can't use this style of atomizer. I'm definitely far ahead of a Vivi Nova at this point.
I'm running 3.4v right now, which is 8.9 watts. I'm loving this setup, as even my Rawr antidote (blueberry/lemonade) is strong in flavor, and you can chain vape all day without a dry hit. Some of my other coils would lack flavor or taste burned. I'm happy with the coil count since I have been unable to even intentionally induce a short by pulling the wick in and out of the coil, and even scoring it with a knife. I also don't get a lackluster first pull, as I've got enough wattage to start atomizing quickly.
One thing I learned - when coiling your wire, pull the wick in to almost touching at the positive/center post. Wrap the wire opposite the direction the screw/bolt tightens on the center post. When you tighten it, it will very slightly push out, but you'll have a very short wire path before it coils around the wick. You'll avoid a major hot-spot problem many have with the wire being too long before hitting the wick. Also, with lower gauge wire, you can wrap a bit tighter around the wick (not pinching it, but resting against it all the way around) which avoids the pitfall of a lack of flavor and/or burned fluid. studiovap's wonderful pictures illustrate what 'just right' means when it comes to coil tightness against the wick. Touching, but not deforming the wick.
I've also started spreading my coil out a bit more across the wick, but still nearer to the air hole in the side of the top casing. I would get dry hits or weakly flavored hits when I spread the coil across the whole range of the wick. Having a coil wrap over more area of the wick, but concentrated where the air would be drawing made that problem go away.
I'm now at 100mm of 635 in a 2mm wick hole, with room to spare around it. The only gotcha is you need to (before it's broken in) put a few drops of liquid on the top of the wick and burn a bit to get the wicking started. Once it's going, you can empty out the tank and fill another fluid without dripping on the top of the wick, and it'll wick like nobody's business. I'm hand rolling the wick until tight, then putting it between two solid but textured surfaces, and rolling it in the same (tightening) direction 5-10 times to get these solid core wicks. You can run it a few times in the opposite direction after to loosen it up just slightly, and get that solid yet springy wick studiovap has mentioned. I've had great success with this when dealing with 100% VG liquid that I used to get no flavor from/dry pulls.
Regarding wick sizing, there doesn't seem to be a huge difference between the 100mm and 80mm wicks I have running into two of my DUDs. I think I've hit a point of diminishing returns and am now wasting excess wick. You'll know when you get to that point when you encounter no dry pulls. Beyond that stage, having even more fluid as a buffer is pointless. With how expensive 635 is, I'm considering stepping down.
One last note, I'm using a cheap $18 ego-t 18650 mod. I'm running regulated, which is 3.3-3.4v (with my batteries, under load, is generally 3.4v). No mechanical mod is necessary. I'm using cheap DUDs, and studiovap is using much better quality units with much larger wick holes. He can run higher wattage output with less coils and get good output. I run lower wattage with more coils (and higher ohms), but am having good luck. Without comparing A/B it's hard to know how much better his setup is, but my point is having a regulated/lower wattage output device than a mechanical mod doesn't mean you can't use this style of atomizer. I'm definitely far ahead of a Vivi Nova at this point.
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