Optimal mesh dimensions, wire size and wraps for specific devices

Status
Not open for further replies.

jun0felix

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 24, 2012
448
563
63
Switzerland
so far i made out my maximum mesh size by 80mm (this is for the Orion2.1). i do have an atty that takes a 100mm mesh rolled, but for me it does not bring more pleasure then e.g. 70mm mesh ...

not so much depending from the size, it's really worthy to take your time to roll the mesh. i am not familiar with the "rolling between two wood panels" method, but instead take a small piece of aluminium paper (from the kitchen) to roll the mesh with - just like tobacco in a cigarette paper ...
 

JPoodles

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 27, 2012
231
126
54
West Boylston, MA
so far i made out my maximum mesh size by 80mm (this is for the Orion2.1). i do have an atty that takes a 100mm mesh rolled, but for me it does not bring more pleasure then e.g. 70mm mesh ...

not so much depending from the size, it's really worthy to take your time to roll the mesh. i am not familiar with the "rolling between two wood panels" method, but instead take a small piece of aluminium paper (from the kitchen) to roll the mesh with - just like tobacco in a cigarette paper ...

yeah like a sushi roller, aluminum foil...huh...good one. I use cork (earlier thread) cuz it grips well but gives a little so your fingers dont chew up. The board trick works well but I'm a little tactile oriented.




studiovap said:
Just as a contrast to the involved oxidization process, I will mention that:
1.I do a quick Jack frost,roll and torch to dark orange 3-4 times, but I no longer quench my wicks after torching, I now believe the oxidization process needs the O2 in the air as it cools, (thanks emonty), and I find the "springy wick wicks better and is more forgiving.
2. I no longer do juice burns, one day I kinda forgot to do it and since then haven't needed to
3. My coil oxidizes/heals my dry wick as I nudge it for the final stage and remains stable thereafter.

IMHO covering your wick with burnt juice or carbon is only good for getting your coils firing at the start & can in many cases disguise poor oxidization that will bite us in the ... further down the line. I heard of others skipping the "Holy Grail Of Oxidization Steps" in my earlier experimentation and shuddered , just grateful that I had a semi stable setup If I did every one, after a while I found I just needed some Bl**dy consistency, and through learning from many old hands here on ECF I finally have it.
Big thanks to all of you, you know who you are LOL.

Thanx for letting me know what a Jack Frost was! Tried to reference it earlier but couldn't find it. I personally still do 1 in case it helps the capillary leg. Not sure if it does though. Thanx again
 

studiovap

Unresolved Status
ECF Veteran
Aug 12, 2012
752
1,829
Queensland Australia
yeah like a sushi roller, aluminum foil...huh...good one. I use cork (earlier thread) cuz it grips well but gives a little so your fingers dont chew up. The board trick works well but I'm a little tactile oriented.






Thanx for letting me know what a Jack Frost was! Tried to reference it earlier but couldn't find it. I personally still do 1 in case it helps the capillary leg. Not sure if it does though. Thanx again
Jack frost is oxidizing the piece of mesh before you roll it.
Sarcasm much? LOL
 

ormandj

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 27, 2012
117
50
TX
What devices do you all use for these incredibly low ohms like .05 - 1.0 ohms? I hope not egos?

I'm using a 1.1 ohm coil only because I am limited to an ego-t upgrade mod (uses 18650 batteries, I have some Panasonic CGR18650CH that are good for 10A). I think studiovap is running a mechanical mod. I'm probably going to head that direction, because I'd like to get to not worry about the control unit on this thing frying. If I go that route, though, I definitely want to add a voltage meter to the setup, because I don't like the idea of accidentally discharging your cells to the point of damaging them.

Honestly, I'd love to see a VV (I could care less about VW, you still have to tweak it for each fluid, so what do you really gain) setup that could handle 30watts. I'm at around 16-17 watts now, and I'd like to do a coil more like studiovap's that is spread out over a larger area but with more power so it would atomize immediately. He's using a mechanical mod from what I've read, so he can dump some serious power into his coils with the right batteries. If I find some free time (busy dealing with new-home-stuff) I may build one myself, because most of the people putting out VV/VW mods are aiming for normal atomizers that don't require such high wattages to perform really well. I built some higher resistance heads to toy around with, but your coil counts start getting really high and you start dealing with really thin wire, and neither works well this style atomizer from what I've been experiencing while experimenting.

VV would be nice for tweaking for individual fluids, instead of making new coils - also would be nice in regards to not worrying about battery drain impacting the temperature at the coil. I can discern a significant difference between a fresh battery and a battery down to 3.8v with my 1.1ohm coil. Both work, but a fresh battery is much better. I'd rather set a voltage of 3.7 and make a lower ohm coil to get the temperature where I needed it, and be able to rely on it being consistent until the day was over (and be able to adjust voltage up/down based on liquid).
 
Last edited:

JPoodles

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 27, 2012
231
126
54
West Boylston, MA
Jack frost is oxidizing the piece of mesh before you roll it.
Sarcasm much? LOL

I do sarcasm much...but none was intended this time...I somehow thought you actually had explained it in the post I quoted. Looks like I lost a bit in translation- Oops Oh well, now I DO know what a Jack Frost is...:oops: I really play nice - really
 

ormandj

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 27, 2012
117
50
TX
Wouldn't a Zmax do that?

It's only good to 15 Watts. My friend can't even fire my coils on his Zmax, the resistance is too low and it won't even attempt to push current through it. I may have another go at making higher resistance coils with some kanthal, with nichrome, once you get to 34 awg or higher, shorts become a problem and the wire is so thin it tends to burn through.
 

ormandj

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 27, 2012
117
50
TX
I was reading through this forum and followed the suggestion studiovap had in his post #41 in this thread.

I re-rolled my SS mesh to be slightly spongy (rolled solid, then rolled the opposite direction using my fingers a bit to loosen it up). I've got it setup with a 4/5 wrap of 32 awg 80/20 nichrome (about 1.3ohms), with the wraps coming off the positive and negative posts being allowed to be a bit loser until it contacts the wick, to avoid hotspots. Same relatively tight coil, right where the airhole is in my DUD. I'm able to vape at 3.3v and get decent vapor and flavor production. That's 8 1/3 watts and just a bit over 2.5 amps. I'm fairly happy with this, as in a pinch I can run off a regulated ego non-vv. Cranking the voltage up to 4.2v and it'll start to taste burned after a few back-to-back vapes.

At this point, I feel like I'll need to find someone nearby with a setup they consider awesome to a/b compare, as I'm not really sure if I'm near 'as good as it gets' or just don't have an idea of how good it can get. Any suggestions are welcomed.
 

Cyrus Vap

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 8, 2011
4,325
3,507
Bay Area, California
Swear I had come across a post(s) about increased wick density improving wicking too a point, and then giving way to diminished returns/decreased returns

Anyway, has anyone drawn conclusions on the DID and ZAP (no insulator) ? How much have you found is too much? Not considering time to temperature, heat sink etc, just wicking

I've been too far away from the gennies as I'm Reo and bottom feeding obsessed right now, so i have little to contribute here. But they're starting to call me again...
 

tmcase

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 20, 2011
20,862
54,652
Swear I had come across a post(s) about increased wick density improving wicking too a point, and then giving way to diminished returns/decreased returns

Anyway, has anyone drawn conclusions on the DID and ZAP (no insulator) ? How much have you found is too much? Not considering time to temperature, heat sink etc, just wicking

I've been too far away from the gennies as I'm Reo and bottom feeding obsessed right now, so i have little to contribute here. But they're starting to call me again...

I can see too much wick could lead to flooding if there is no juice flow control. Other than that...I got nothing. :)

Edit: Nevermind. I though you were talking about non-mesh wicking. :facepalm:
 
Last edited:

LucidAce

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 9, 2012
587
393
right about here, USA
Swear I had come across a post(s) about increased wick density improving wicking too a point, and then giving way to diminished returns/decreased returns

Anyway, has anyone drawn conclusions on the DID and ZAP (no insulator) ? How much have you found is too much? Not considering time to temperature, heat sink etc, just wicking

I've been too far away from the gennies as I'm Reo and bottom feeding obsessed right now, so i have little to contribute here. But they're starting to call me again...

Yeah, I think some combination (or maybe all) of BJ43, studiovap, gdeal, Jimi D, emonty were talking about that. Maybe in the 500 SS Mesh thread?
 

MikeE3

Vaping Master
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 23, 2011
8,631
114,426
Downingtown, PA
Swear I had come across a post(s) about increased wick density improving wicking too a point, and then giving way to diminished returns/decreased returns

Anyway, has anyone drawn conclusions on the DID and ZAP (no insulator) ? How much have you found is too much? Not considering time to temperature, heat sink etc, just wicking

I've been too far away from the gennies as I'm Reo and bottom feeding obsessed right now, so i have little to contribute here. But they're starting to call me again...

I easily rolled and fit a 100mm piece of 500 mesh into a ZAP no problem. I probably could have done another 20mm and it would still have fit without being tight. The thermal mass was way more than I anticipated. The coil was done with Kanthal A1 30 awg and came out to ~2.1Ω. Wicking was fine, I could chain vape that setup without a dry hit. But - I really had to heat that puppy up. With a 'normal' size wick and coil I was fine vaping at 4.0-4.2V at ~2.0Ω. With the solid/fat 500 mesh I wasn't getting good vapor production 'till about 5.2V and juice was still tasting Ok up to 5.8V. Never have I vaped beyond 5V 'till this fat/solid 500 wick.

I could be totally wrong - but I thought I remembered it said that beyond 80mm you start to get dimensioning returns.

I tried an 80mm 500 mesh in the zap with the insulator. The wick slipped in/out OK, again not tight. But either the mesh heated up too much, or I got an undetected short and the wick fused/melted to the insulator. oops! not good.
 

urquidezj

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 18, 2010
1,523
1,130
Tucson AZ
i am getting into this, so how can i acheve a no tip vape with the fill hole plugged. read that its happening its just not happening with my aga t and aga. aga-t has 400 mesh rolled to minimal center hole like less than 1mm, cut it to 75mm. get a couple of good hits with the fill hole screw on then it dries up. doesnt dy when fill hole is off.
aga has 500 mesh 100mm cut, rolled tight minimal hole and same thing. any suggestions?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread