Origen Genesis v2 Clone

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roxynoodle

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Well i have to say it looks like a good clean build Roxy, and having never had an atty fire I'm puzzled. All I can guess is that somehow the wick got starved of juice and ignited. What were the ohms on that build? Looks like they might have been low with a 4/3 wrap, and is that 26 kanthal?

28g, 0.8 ohm.

For more wraps with heavier wire I'm going to need a bit taller mesh wick. I wrote down the measurements that were in that video,but I understand the concept so could easily alter it. I probably could've gotten one more wrap on that one though.

Apparently it had to do with firing it upright and starving it of juice. I guess I'm not going into Victor's hall of fame after all.
 
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Vaslovik

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28g, 0.8 ohm.

For more wraps with heavier wire I'm going to need a bit taller mesh wick. I wrote down the measurements that were in that video,but I understand the concept so could easily alter it. I probably could've gotten one more wrap on that one though.

Apparently it had to do with firing it upright and starving it of juice. I guess I'm not going into Victor's hall of fame after all.

Well you should be able to fire it upright without it being juice starved, that old saw about tilting gennies is bogus and amounted to little more than a cultural affectation. I use 26 kanthal in a 6/5 wrap on my Tobeco clone at .8 ohm, so it fits in there you just have to space the loops closer. It might have more to do with your wick than your coil. Just a theory.

Keep in mind that genny builds are something of an art and even experienced builders can run into a real head-scratcher from time to time.
 
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roxynoodle

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Well you should be able to fire it upright without it being juice starved, that old saw about tilting gennies is bogus and amounted to little more than a cultural affectation. I use 26 kanthal in a 6/5 wrap on my Tobeco clone at .8 ohm, so it fits in there you just have to space the loops closer. It might have more to do with your wick than your coil. Just a theory.

Keep in mind that genny builds are something of an art and even experienced builders can run into a real head-scratcher from time to time.

Well, my wick must not be very good. I had to tilt this morning or I got a dry hit. Not only that but it had to be tilted for about 20seconds after being upright for a bit. I don't remember my Sat being so particular and I built that with no clue of what I was doing.

Gennys are going to be a challenge for me I see. I have a strong affinity for RTAs. I'm not giving up on it. Its here so I'm going to continue working with it, but I'm definitely not ready to buy an authentic.
 

TrollDragon

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Well, my wick must not be very good. I had to tilt this morning or I got a dry hit. Not only that but it had to be tilted for about 20seconds after being upright for a bit. I don't remember my Sat being so particular and I built that with no clue of what I was doing.

Gennys are going to be a challenge for me I see. I have a strong affinity for RTAs. I'm not giving up on it. Its here so I'm going to continue working with it, but I'm definitely not ready to buy an authentic.
You are using the smaller holes with the support in them for your mesh? Did you build the L shaped one or the Straw in Straw? How about the bottom, do you have a 45 cut into the bottom or does it go right down flush with the deck? Fill screw in or out?

I am far from an experienced genny builder by any means, I fought with the Nextgen for days and finally ended up with a little Eko over the Mesh so I could use it. The Sat22 I am still working on getting a really good build in and the Origenny is working top notch with the Eko & Mesh straw.

I have also gotten dry hits from my gennies without tilting, so my wicking probably has a problem too.

How are you building your wicks @Vaslovik ?
 
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roxynoodle

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You are using the smaller holes with the support in them for your mesh? Did you build the L shaped one or the Straw in Straw? How about the bottom, do you have a 45 cut into the bottom or does it go right down flush with the deck? Fill screw in or out?

I am far from an experienced genny builder by any means, I fought with the Nextgen for days and finally ended up with a little Eko over the Mesh so I could use it. The Sat22 I am still working on getting a really good build in and the Origenny is working top notch with the Eko & Mesh straw.

I have also gotten dry hits from my gennies without tilting, so my wicking probably has a problem too.

How are you building your wicks @Vaslovik ?

Let's see:

L shaped like in the video you posted for me. I used his measurements.

No cut on the bottom. Its not set totally on the bottom, but close.

Yes, in the smaller deck hole for mesh.

Fill screw in, but maybe I should remove it. Last night it was vaping great so I figured I did ok with it in. I'll take it out and see if that improves things.
 
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Vaslovik

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How are you building your wicks @Vaslovik ?

I've been starting with a strip of 400 mesh as wide as I'd like the wick to be tall, and as long as will fit into a coil I wind on my drill bit, which turns out to be about 2.5 inches, and I oxidize both sides of that mesh well, then do a thin fold-over on the end I'll be rolling towards, start it curling with a straightened out heavy paper clip pulling my mesh between that and my thumb, then just slowly roll, taking my time with it until it's good and solid. I then oxidize that again, let it cool a bit, soak it with juice, burn that off, and do it again. When it cools I roll some more, trying to get the outside end of the mesh straight along the wick, which I'm not always able to pull off completely, but it works still.

When I have my coil mounted on the genny I pull out the drill bit, slip in the wick, spinning it in the direction it's rolled in as it goes in, not too tight, and not too loose either. Then I fire it, find the hot spots and loops that aren't glowing if any, and very gently nudge them up and down with a dental pick until the coil glows evenly from top to bottom. This method has worked well for me for the last couple years. Note: it's best to do this on a partly discharged battery so as not to pop the coil. The thinner your kanthal the easier it will pop, but I find 26 kanthal pretty durable that way.
 
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Vaslovik

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Well, my wick must not be very good. I had to tilt this morning or I got a dry hit. Not only that but it had to be tilted for about 20seconds after being upright for a bit. I don't remember my Sat being so particular and I built that with no clue of what I was doing.

Well don't let that discourage you, everyone who learns to build gennies goes through that stuff, and you can have a hot leg on a build that looks perfect that you don't know about until you fill the tank and take a vape on it. Then you know pretty quick, from a harsh vape. It takes time, practice, and patience to learn to build gennies right, but it's worth it.

Also, some gennies are easier to build on than others, and they are all different. I found the easiest to build was the RSST. It was a snap, and I could throw a build on that thing in five minutes with a coil wound on a Q Tip stick that worked every time. Other gennies are not so forgiving and some can be a real challenge.
 
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Vaslovik

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Watch the video TrollDragon posted above. The Asian gentleman is Victor. Its a rather amusing video.

Good Lord!!! 260 watts? Why not just vape off a cell tower battery? I really don't get the whole pushing the envelope thing, or the cloud chasing thing, or even the box mod thing. Maybe I'm just old and set in my ways, but 84 watts on my mechs is all I need. I have no idea what I'd want 260 watts for.
 
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roxynoodle

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Good Lord!!! 260 watts? Why not just vape off a cell tower battery? I really don't get the whole pushing the envelope thing, or the cloud chasing thing, or even the box mod thing. Maybe I'm just old and set in my ways, but 84 watts on my mechs is all I need. I have no idea what I'd want 260 watts for.

Did you notice the wick catching fire?
 
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TrollDragon

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I've been starting with a strip of 400 mesh as wide as I'd like the wick to be tall, and as long as will fit into a coil I wind on my drill bit, which turns out to be about 2.5 inches, and I oxidize both sides of that mesh well, then do a thin fold-over on the end I'll be rolling towards, start it curling with a straightened out heavy paper clip pulling my mesh between that and my thumb, then just slowly roll, taking my time with it until it's good and solid. I then oxidize that again, let it cool a bit, soak it with juice, burn that off, and do it again. When it cools I roll some more, trying to get the outside end of the mesh straight along the wick, which I'm not always able to pull off completely, but it works still.

When I have my coil mounted on the genny I pull out the drill bit, slip in the wick, spinning it in the direction it's rolled in as it goes in, not too tight, and not too loose either. Then I fire it, find the hot spots and loops that aren't glowing if any, and very gently nudge them up and down with a dental pick until the coil glows evenly from top to bottom. This method has worked well for me for the last couple years. Note: it's best to do this on a partly discharged battery so as not to pop the coil. The thinner your kanthal the easier it will pop, but I find 26 kanthal pretty durable that way.
Thanks for the excellent info.
I have been trying to build that way but sometimes I just have too little patience. I am definitely going to take greater care in getting a mesh only build working without the Ekowool shortcut. The 26g build I did on the Origenny worked quite well, but I need to perfect smaller gauge builds for the Nextgen and Sat22.

The Kraken needs a build and I will be using the SS cable topped with 400g mesh for the wick. I'd like to get it built as a dual 28g and chasing the hot spots out of the mesh is the hardest part for me.
:toast:
 

EddieAdams

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You really must roll a tight "solid"wick with almost no visible hole down the center. Really concentrate on getting the inner 1/4 as tight as possible.

I can't explain why but, I know anytime I've had wicking issues it's been because of a poor roll.

Also did anyone ask what PG/VG the liquid you're using is?
 

roxynoodle

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You really must roll a tight "solid"wick with almost no visible hole down the center. Really concentrate on getting the inner 1/4 as tight as possible.

I can't explain why but, I know anytime I've had wicking issues it's been because of a poor roll.

Also did anyone ask what PG/VG the liquid you're using is?

Was this post for me? That's the kind of wick I had in the Sat, and I never had any dry hits.

Liquid is 30pg/70vg.
 
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