Orion V2 roll call

[muddstar]

Now that's nice, will be giving that a roll this afternoon.

Here to confirm that the brass nuts from the DID do in fact fit the post on the orion v2.1. They're a huge improvement over the spring/washer setup.

 

[Greenbox619]

I don't know what he sent 'brian', but in his picture a couple pages back he mentioned 2mm hex screws (6mm long) and he used two nuts by the looks of it.

Correct me if I'm wrong 'jslick'.

All you need is 2 m2 nuts .you can get them on eBay for $ 3 for 20 of them

That's correct! I didn't have the "spacer" that The_Great used so I had to improvise. And I got them from RTLfasteners.com. Also, I found a local RC car shop that also stocks those parts so you can try your local hobby store.

Thanks for the info guys!!! I appreciate the help!

 

[rwechsler]

Didn't Imeo say something about not using brass for things that go in contact with juice? Also why Jim switched to SS with the latest batch of DIDs?

Jim switched to SS because a lot of people were complaining about the brass. For what reason, I have no idea.

Imeo won't because there is some lead in brass and that could potentially leach out. I don't know if having nuts on the positive post would be enough for concern, but it's something to consider. The nuts on the post are not inside a tank where they would have lots of liquid on them for extended periods of time so maybe it's not a problem.

No, it's not a matter of lead in the brass, it's because the two base metals that compose brass, copper and zinc, can output potentially dangerous byproducts when exposed to too much heat, and those chemicals can also leech into juice if the liqiuid is in direct contact with the brass for extended amounts of time. Considering how little brass is actually at play here, the fact that the + post is exposed to so little heat (unless you have a short or your wick is touching your post, neither of which should ever happen, brass or no brass), and how most of us were inhaling 20+ cigarettes laden with 400 different toxins and carcinogens a day, I don't think the brass nuts are anything to be worried about.

 

[the ob]

Can someone clarify the exact pieces needed to modify both the positive and negative connections?

 

[rober36]

Jim switched to SS because a lot of people were complaining about the brass. For what reason, I have no idea.

No, it's not a matter of lead in the brass, it's because the two base metals that compose brass, copper and zinc, can output potentially dangerous byproducts when exposed to too much heat, and those chemicals can also leech into juice if the liqiuid is in direct contact with the brass for extended amounts of time. Considering how little brass is actually at play here, the fact that the + post is exposed to so little heat (unless you have a short or your wick is touching your post, neither of which should ever happen, brass or no brass), and how most of us were inhaling 20+ cigarettes laden with 400 different toxins and carcinogens a day, I don't think the brass nuts are anything to be worried about.

I certainly don't want to worry anyone if my information is wrong, I am no metal expert, however I am still concerned about using brass.

Imeo flat out refusing to use brass on anything touching liquid (even the collection tank which is exposed to very little heat) and the fact that there is lead in brass no matter how small the amount, the brass nuts are very close to the wick which gets fairly hot (I'm no metallurgist so I have no idea how much heat it would actually take) and they are in contact with liquid by being so close to the wick, are good enough reasons to cause me some concern. Imeo says bad, I listen. I have never met the man, but through a forum he seems rather intelligent, and I trust what he says.

Btw, I do have a DID coming and have not yet ordered the ss parts, so I will be using it with brass for a while, as I doubt I have enough self control to wait for the stainless steel. So I hope you are correct.

 

[JollyRogers]

one word. Verdigris. If it is brass, it must be at least plated brass to prevent that before I will use it in a tank or in my atomizer. I spent over 20 years dealing with it as a sailor I am not vaping it. Regardless, if you clean your stuff regular, then it won't be an issue.

 

[jslick_007]

Can someone clarify the exact pieces needed to modify both the positive and negative connections?

I think it depends on whether or not you're doing "The_Great" (Negative) or Rick's (Positive) mod. Rick uses the brass nuts straight off a DID, on my take on "The_Great", I used a M2x6mm screw and (2) 2mm nuts.

 

[rwechsler]

I think it depends on whether or not you're doing "The_Great" (Negative) or Rick's (Positive) mod. Rick uses the brass nuts straight off a DID, on my take on "The_Great", I used a M2x6mm screw and (2) 2mm nuts.

To clarify, you're using the 2mm M2 nuts to heighten the ground screw? I guess I need to try that next! I'll play around with anything that'll help to improve the flow dynamics and decrease the internal volume of the vapor chamber!

 

[the ob]

I think it depends on whether or not you're doing "The_Great" (Negative) or Rick's (Positive) mod. Rick uses the brass nuts straight off a DID, on my take on "The_Great", I used a M2x6mm screw and (2) 2mm nuts.

I think I'm wanting to modify both.

 

[rwechsler]

I feel you on that one. At this point, I've screwed around and tinkered so much with my Orion v2.1 that adding a few little nuts to heighten the ground screw feels like the natural next right step. Next up, design a mechanical switch for the v2.1! Which, in theory, shouldn't be very difficult at all! The most obvious way that I can conceiving doing it would be something akin to how Imeo insulates the ground post on the GGTS. I have a 13 hour flight ahead of me, so maybe I'll get busy on some CAD mockups and see what I can figure out.

I think I'm wanting to modify both.

 

[tierrataz]

Have you tried fitting any other mod bottom buttons to the tubes. The threading might be the same? Random forum reading makes me think it's a possibility.

 

[JollyRogers]

Have you tried fitting any other mod bottom buttons to the tubes. The threading might be the same? Random forum reading makes me think it's a possibility.

LOL. Like a GGTS or a ...

 

[aznfknpride]

GGTS bottom tube threads on to the Orion V2.1. Put the battery in positive side up.

 

[the ob]

GGTS bottom tube threads on to the Orion V2.1. Put the battery in positive side up.

So you are saying that potentially you could use it as a mechanical with the ggts bottom?

 

[JollyRogers]

So you are saying that potentially you could use it as a mechanical with the ggts bottom?

Yes. you could if there was a dire need.

 

[Currynoah]

Yes. you could if there was a dire need.

Dire is the key word.

 

[rober36]

View attachment 129307

Fairly cool, it would look alot better with the polished v2... But good to know in case the switch fails, although I do have a back up on the way. But one thing I am wondering is would this damage the switch?

 

[brian272465]

View attachment 129307

Fairly cool, it would look alot better with the polished v2... But good to know in case the switch fails, although I do have a back up on the way. But one thing I am wondering is would this damage the switch?

What size battery fits like this ?

Sent from my HTCEVODesign4G using Tapatalk 2

 

[rober36]

An 18500 works set up like that.

 

[JollyRogers]

View attachment 129307

Fairly cool, it would look alot better with the polished v2... But good to know in case the switch fails, although I do have a back up on the way. But one thing I am wondering is would this damage the switch?

I would take the switch out and use an M2 post, isolate it, & adjust as needed for the battery.... only in the case of a dire need. I have a backup Orion also