P Plus questions.

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tnt56

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Not for me. I like the P+ just like it is. I broke one of the ground pins on a kick 2 yesterday when I tried to take if out of my ELA. Almost cried. Oh well I got 3 more kick 2's and I think 5 kick 1's. I still like the first version better.
7-8 watts makes me happy. I've done some sub ohm (as low as 0.3) on my Reo's. It was just to much for this old man. Now even the Reo's are set up between 1.3 and 1.5 ohms.


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pAth77

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I agree. I heard from a friend the other day that Satburn is making a flat button for the P+, and that's part of the reason why so many people are looking for P+s here and on other forums and FB groups. Even if David made a flat button for it, I don't think that I would buy one. For me personally, I wouldn't change a thing on the P+.
 

snork

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Sorry to disagree. You'd have to be a mighty wizard just to input the correct information into that monster.
I used to work in robotic's in a previous job. It still amazed me when I see all the different heads and tools being used on that CNC.
And I think the folding pen knife comes into play when he magically performs the finishing touches.

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You're right.
 

forcedfuel50

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What if David made a flat bottom button for the P+ line...............Would that spark some interest?

Yes, we plan to do one for it too like the ELA one. It'll will look a bit better then the ELA one since the diameter is smaller, the button won't look so small in there.
 

lctrc

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What if David made a flat bottom button for the P+ line...............Would that spark some interest?

I can't quite picture it. But regardless, no interest from me. I'm one of those who thinks the P+ button and lock is absolutely perfect the way it it. It doesn't leave my hand unless its locked, and I can lock it without looking or even thinking about it (which seems to be the bit that most people have trouble with).
 

tnt56

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I can't quite picture it. But regardless, no interest from me. I'm one of those who thinks the P+ button and lock is absolutely perfect the way it it. It doesn't leave my hand unless its locked, and I can lock it without looking or even thinking about it (which seems to be the bit that most people have trouble with).

I wish I was like you when I lock my P+ or the ELA. I ordered a flat bottom for the ELA (cause it looks awesome), but have concerns about being able to lock it with my messed up hands. I have to look and think about what I'm doing before I can get it to lock.
I did work over the locking button as shown by David in a video. (sorry I can't find it. It was posted in the ELA thread). Smooth as silk, but the alignment still gives this old man fits. Even when I look and try.. Will this prevent me from buying my long sought after P+ 18350? No way no how. I like this style mod. Slim and trim, just like my sweetie.
Of all the Mechs I own,( over 16) My Super T products are tied with my Reo's. My antique Legacy's are #3. No other mech can compare. The Reo for bottom feeders and the Super T for top mounts. Guess I'm spoiled. But then I like my kicks also. Not the second version but the first one.
 

MikeE3

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Yes, we plan to do one for it too like the ELA one. It'll will look a bit better then the ELA one since the diameter is smaller, the button won't look so small in there.

If I buy a flat button, when available, will I be able to add a P+ to the order as an accessory? :)


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Riverboat

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p+ is my favorite just like it is. You would have to do a video on this flat button. Would I have to sneak my pinky or finger in? Could I just lay may finger in the groove and give a light squeeze?

Has anyone received their flat button for their ELA? Sorry I haven't been keeping up with that thread.

The flat bottom ELA button is just as easy to fire as the original button..........though original button has great lines the flat bottom button has its advantages..... For one it stands upright Rock Solid....The second thing is when I carry my mod in the car I have it in a SuperT felt bag and I place it in a cup holder....every once in awhile with original button it would fire itself when standing up in the cup holder unless it was locked...With the new flat button I don't believe this will ever happen due to the fully shrouded firing button...Now that's a real plus in my book:2c:
 

Riverboat

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The flat bottom ELA button is just as easy to fire as the original button..........

Some people have told me that the flat bottom button is harder for them to fire......might be if you have problems with your hands?
Otherwise I don't see much difference between the two designs when firing....lay the pinky against the bottom and press......
 

pAth77

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Some people have told me that the flat bottom button is harder for them to fire......might be if you have problems with your hands?
Otherwise I don't see much difference between the two designs when firing....lay the pinky against the bottom and press......

Using the included washer shortens the throw pretty significantly. That might help those that are having a harder time firing with the flat bottom. I personal prefer the longer throw so I don't use the washer.
 

tnt56

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Maybe I'll try a bit if touch up on my buttons today. If I don't have any one interested in learning how to build RBA's. I think it might be tinker/piddle time.
I remember David saying something about dry graphite for a lube. May just try it.

I do have a lot if hand problems. Comes from over 27 yrs as an industrial tech and mechanic. Hands are shot now.


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eternalsurf

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I have a P+ 350 with original flat cap, 500 with original slant cap, and a kiklet cap. My spheroid will not make a connection with any of them. The kicklet is probably the only one that would provide the necessary air flow. Except for a few with adjustable contacts, I've only found one or two attys that do make contact. I'd really like to use the spheroid, are there any tricks to fixing this?

There is obviously one solution to this, the Strata!! :)
 

tnt56

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I've got the 18500 P+ and 18650 P+. Also got a kicklet to go with each. Each one has the kicklet style top cap.. Only thing I can't get to work are my Kanger Pro tank 3's. So I only use the kicklet with the 18490. (I don't use the 18500's with my Super T products. Only AW IMR series.). But I keep looking and hoping and searching for the elusive P+ 18350. :)
But then I check the site everyday looking for something?????????????
 

tnt56

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I think David needs about 10 more of those magical CNC machines he uses. And about 25 more David clones. But they all have to met his standard of excellence. I'm sure those CNC can't cost more than???????????????????? I don't know how many zeros to put in there. I don't got that many toes and fingers. :facepalm:
 
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