Penelope flooding even with juice control barely open

[Lex0r]

Today my Penelope was flooding pretty badly at work. I decided I would disassemble everything, inspect each piece, and reassemble when I got home. Well I did that, and unfortunately, it's still flooding. The juice control was barely open, but I'm still getting an unusual amount of leakage. I read somewhere that people sanded down the upper connection nut (the piece that threads around the ceramic housing), which I have done and made sure it was flat and smooth. Every o-ring is in good condition and properly seated. I really had Penelope mastered, so I am not sure what is going on. I am vaping from it as I write this, with the juice control all the way closed. The problem has to be the upper connection nut, right? What can I try? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Specs:

Penny with Kir Fanis V3 clear tank.
Cheesecloth wick rolled to about the size of the stock silica wick (wick is not protruding from the channels).
Using on my zmax (unfortunately I have yet to obtain a GG mod) with a 510 to 510 adapter which tightens the draw.

 

[dokebilee]

I'm not too sure if the upper connection nut is giving you problems since I've never had that sort of problem. Although, I've had numerous flooding issues when I had coils going around a single wick. The flooding problem went away when I added another wick to the single wick, creating a double wick-coil setup. Now I almost never get any flooding issues even if I open the juice control all the way, or close the top cap quickly.

I don't know if this helps but... have you tried adding another cheesecloth wick (rolled) on top of another one, and then wrapping a coil around it? Might be worth a try.

 

[Lex0r]

Thanks, I will try the double wick when I do my next setup. Is it doubled throughout, or only where the R-wire wraps around it? How tightly does it sit in the channels?

 

[dokebilee]

It should be only where the R-wire wraps around it. There should be a video somewhere made by Bishopheals, which shows you how to do it but I don't think that you will need it since it's very simple. Having a double wick setup allows for more juice at the center post, sort of like an insurance against flooding. The coil should be tight (but not too tight) around the double wick and it should be tightly in the channels.

Also, make sure that you are screwing down the top cap of the penelope very slowly when you close it. If you screw it down very fast, it will cause flooding in most cases and therefore you will get some leakage at the bottom of the penelope.

 

[dspin]

Today my Penelope was flooding pretty badly at work. I decided I would disassemble everything, inspect each piece, and reassemble when I got home. Well I did that, and unfortunately, it's still flooding. The juice control was barely open, but I'm still getting an unusual amount of leakage. I read somewhere that people sanded down the upper connection nut (the piece that threads around the ceramic housing), which I have done and made sure it was flat and smooth. Every o-ring is in good condition and properly seated. I really had Penelope mastered, so I am not sure what is going on. I am vaping from it as I write this, with the juice control all the way closed. The problem has to be the upper connection nut, right? What can I try? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Specs:

Penny with Kir Fanis V3 clear tank.
Cheesecloth wick rolled to about the size of the stock silica wick (wick is not protruding from the channels).
Using on my zmax (unfortunately I have yet to obtain a GG mod) with a 510 to 510 adapter which tightens the draw.

Make sure that upper connection nut is on totally straight. It will thread on sometimes easily and really not be on right. I know this as it happened to me once. If it is not on straight and tight you will get leakage. I looked at mine closely when it did that and it was not on the housing exactly right

 

[Scott_Simpson]

Since you say you've stripped and cleaned the Penny before installing the new coil, this probably isn't your problem, but the only time I ever got leakage with my Penelope was when the ceramic cracked (I fumblefingered the mod and it toppled over on my desktop) ... I couldn't even detect the crack at first, but I finally found it when I pulled off the old coil and the top half of the ceramic came with it! Just a thought ...

 

[Lex0r]

Thanks everyone. Seems to be ok today but i'll keep an eye on it. Juice control is barely open and working well...we'll see.

 

[RiverNut]

another possible reason is high ambient temps which can cause air pressure to build inside Penelope causing flooding... especially when she's low on eliguid.

 

[Ariel_MX]

In my own experience flooding / leaking problems mainly is due two things:

Liquid has a way to freely flow through the top of the ceramic assembly channels, then it goes to the inner part of the ceramic, leaking through the center post.

So is does not matter how much wick you put in the channels (a single 1.5mm wick, 1 x 3mm wick, etc), but it is important how many wicks are just at the top, only inside the top channels.

I always use MrKrinkle's method in my Penelopes and Odysseus (only wick at the top), I always ensure to use enough wick to tap the channels at the top of the ceramic: liquid flows freely through the channels (depending in how much I open the liquid flow control), but the wick at the top prevents it to flow inside the ceramic cup.

Wick is too long: it could prevent the correct position of the center post o-ring, or even some wick filaments could get trapped between the the o-ring and the base, so liquid will flow through the wick causing some leaking.

Leaking / flooding does not happen because the ceramic assembly secure ring: I always secure the negative NR wire with the ring, it does prevent the ring to full sit on the base (there is a small gap between the base and the ring where the negative NR is), but it does not cause any leaking / flooding.