top caps will be ready after Greek Easter, that is in about 2 weeks aal.
You cant modify Ithaka's mouthpiece, sorry buddy
You cant modify Ithaka's mouthpiece, sorry buddy
Penelope official and tips and tricks
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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Has anyone tried the nextel ceramic wick in a penny or oddy yet? Friend gave me a sample may try.
Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
Many people have try it DH. The first guy that mention it and used it was Rick that is a GG user. The results that gives are very good
I broke the cardinal rule of over tightening the connections and now the base plate can't be taken out from the the topcap of the Poldiac. Tried removing it with pliers and still it won't budge. In the end I've decided to get replacements for the top cap and base plate cos there are dents from trying to remove it with pliers even though I've put a towel on the jaws of the pliers. I've already ordered a top cap but I can't find the base plate for the Penelope as its out of stock. Anyone out there has a spare that they want to sell?
Surprisingly the freezer method works very good.
Once I had a problem with my UFS, I could not take apart the top part from the base, I tried with everything (even my magic gardener rubber gloves), I was desperate but I didn't want to try with pliers, 3 am and was still trying with all my force and...
...nothing
I was sweating in bed (and it wasn't due I was having precisely the kind of fun that makes you sweat in bed
)10 minutes on the freezer did it, I did not think it would work but it did:
one more try and "click", unscrewed the two pieces
Next couple of days my arms were hurting me.
I finally managed to remove the base plate by using a vice. Unfortunately the threads are busted. Thanks for the tips guys, will keep that in mind the next time. I still need a base plate though.
I already pm to 88 fright, yesterday
And that is why you're the best!!
I'm playing catch up here guyz lol so please forgive if I post in the wrong threads lol 
Will there be any Penny tanks any time soon or do I need to start searching for one? have a deep scratch rite through the engraving on mine thanks to me wheeling my bike over it!!
Will there be any Penny tanks any time soon or do I need to start searching for one? have a deep scratch rite through the engraving on mine thanks to me wheeling my bike over it!!
Was hoping for some suggestions. I have been using wires that I fuse with a wire weilder and it only seems to happen on the penelope right now. I use about 2 inches of 30 gauge kanthal usually comes out to 1.5 to 1.8, but my readings having been jumping around sometimes a full ohm higher, and not really sure how this can happen since i have NR wire for both legs. Any thoughts?
I noticed this on my ithaka and realized that sometimes when screwing on to my provari it was pushing the adjustable pin up to much, but don't think this can happen with penelope. Also, I cleaned the provari contact yesterday.
EDIT: Actually still happening on my ithaka, sometimes reads really high or says open, but will still fire or sometimes not.
I noticed this on my ithaka and realized that sometimes when screwing on to my provari it was pushing the adjustable pin up to much, but don't think this can happen with penelope. Also, I cleaned the provari contact yesterday.
EDIT: Actually still happening on my ithaka, sometimes reads really high or says open, but will still fire or sometimes not.
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The only time mine jump around is when the positive nut has backed off a little on my Penelope and Ody Dunno on the Ithaka
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Long, if it happens on Ithaca too then you have a problem with multimeter or you dont screw well the plastic nut against ceramic housing
Thanks guys.
For what ever reason with the ithaka it seems like i have to gently lift while putting on the provari otherwise the adjustable pin goes to far up and doesn't make solid contact.
For the penelope I am not sure how the positive nut would have loosened, something was going on I just did a quick rebuild and all is good again in penelope land.
I was wondering to. There for awhile I would clean the contacts on the provari and all 510 threads of the atomizers on a weekly basis. I got lazy and had only cleaned the contact points on the provari. I did clean the threading on all devices yesterday, and there was buildup on the threading of the atomizers. Could that lead to issues?
For what ever reason with the ithaka it seems like i have to gently lift while putting on the provari otherwise the adjustable pin goes to far up and doesn't make solid contact.
For the penelope I am not sure how the positive nut would have loosened, something was going on I just did a quick rebuild and all is good again in penelope land.
I was wondering to. There for awhile I would clean the contacts on the provari and all 510 threads of the atomizers on a weekly basis. I got lazy and had only cleaned the contact points on the provari. I did clean the threading on all devices yesterday, and there was buildup on the threading of the atomizers. Could that lead to issues?
of course you have to lift a little Ithaka's adjustable pin Long. Then it will go down while you screw it on your mod. Thats how it works
Sorry, don't think I worded that very well. I have the pin stick out, but when I screw the ithaka on my pv I lift up on the ithaka some to take weight off, otherwise I've had an issue at times with pin screwing in to much.
of course you have to lift a little Ithaka's adjustable pin Long. Then it will go down while you screw it on your mod. Thats how it works
if you screw Ithaca on your mod once then its ok. If you screw it and then unscrew it a little for some reason, you need to readjust the pin Long
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