Just ordered my Provari. Should be here tomorrow. Just getting prepared!! Not sure how I'm going to like the draw without air control from my TS.
Penelope official and tips and tricks
- Thread starter imeothanasis
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Just ordered my Provari. Should be here tomorrow. Just getting prepared!! Not sure how I'm going to like the draw without air control from my TS.
You just screw the ceramic housing enough into the base so the bottom of the positive pin sticks out just a little past the 510 threading. It leaves just the perfect amount of gap between the base and the top of the Provari. I think it is the perfect draw.
Hahaha. Until proteus comes out I need something bigger for the lady.
I cant seem to get the positive pin stick out since it feels like i cant screw the top part anymore. the only way to control or loosen the drag is to not titghen the penelope on my provari
put a 1,78x1,78 oring under the locking nut of penelope's center pin and you will be able to stick penelope's center post out enough for provari chuck
provari is a fixed unit and you cant do anything on it black. Maybe you are used to GG series xaxaxaxa
Yes! I am used to my GG's. The only reason I ordered Provari is I'm waiting for your amazing Proteus my friend. As soon as Proteus arrives. Provari hits the classifieds.
LOL!!
Chris
Question about the NR and R wires.
When I wrap I either have to stop wrapping early so that R wire ends up not fully wrapped or I have to wrap it so that a little NR wire ends up touching the wick.
My wraps never seems to end perfectly so that they start and stop in just the right place.
What is the correct thing to do? Should I wrap so that maybe the NR wire touches, or stop it earlier?
When I wrap I either have to stop wrapping early so that R wire ends up not fully wrapped or I have to wrap it so that a little NR wire ends up touching the wick.
My wraps never seems to end perfectly so that they start and stop in just the right place.
What is the correct thing to do? Should I wrap so that maybe the NR wire touches, or stop it earlier?
I know what you mean. I've found its no big deal. However, I try every time anyway. On a 3mm double wick, I start with the point where the R and NR connect between the two wicks. 4 wraps, not too loose and not too tight, and the other end usually lands at the same point on the other side. But again, it really doesn't matter. It's just an OCD thing.
Now that I'm playing with 3.5mm, the game has changed. LOL
On my Ody I sometimes wrap the nr wire around the wick a bit so I don't think it matters if the nr wire touches the wick
I don't think having the Nr wire touching/wrapping the wick is an issue either.
My question is, can the "knot" where the nr wire and r wire twist lie on one of the channels (metal or ceramic) or should only the nr wire be going down the channels with the knot inside the ceramic cup at all times?
My question is, can the "knot" where the nr wire and r wire twist lie on one of the channels (metal or ceramic) or should only the nr wire be going down the channels with the knot inside the ceramic cup at all times?
I have wondered this and other things as well.
When I pull the wires aside to put down the channels, they will often pull over and then not fire correctly or get pulled to one of the slots in the channel.
how does one deal with these things?
thanks!
The beginning of the knot should always be touching your wick within the ceramic cup. Thats where your coil begins and should be used. If your knot is long enough, some of it may end up in the channels and that's okay but sometimes it interferes with fitting your wick in the channels. Get good at making strong but small knots, they're easier to deal with.
Excellent advice and very helpful- will practice my technique with this in mind. Thanks.
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