Penelope V3
- Thread starter imeothanasis
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Nice work JMBH.. I thought of doing exactly the same thing but like so many other things I havn't gotten round to it yet..
Check the inside and make sure there is no melted plastic. If you're doing sub-ohm it could be possible to where the whole atomizer is getting hot enough to a point of melting plastic.
IDK...I have the Penelope V1 and V2. The V2 has a plastic ring on the bottom that holds one of the NR wires (I know the V3 doesn't have NR wires). I am using nickel wire as the NR wire ends. It works good, but I'm sure silver NR wire would work better.
So I tried sub-ohm on my V2, and to my surprise the nickel wire was glowing when I press the button on my ecig. So I stopped that real fast....and it wasn't a short.
Sorry, I don't have an answer for you, but it did baffle me as to why the nickel wire was glowing. I guess I should get silver wire if I want to do sub-ohm on my V1 or V2. IDK how low ohms the nickel wire can go without it glowing hot, but now I keep my builds around 1.3-2.0
Maybe its the taste of your ejuice...did you check the plastic inside?
How much sub-ohm are you getting to? if it is glowing without a short try twisting 2 nickel wires together, that should take care of it.
I like .05-.07 but some guy at the bar...or should I say the pub, had a set up of .02 ohms. He didn't know his ohms and I measured it for him. I wanted to try ohms that low and that's when I saw the NR wires glowing.
Thanks aal, I will try twisting on my next sub build.
nickel usually adds 0.05 to 0.1 ohms (I am assuming worst case scenario, it should be less). if your whole coil is 0.2 ohms then 1/4 to 1/2 of the current is passing through nickel. It will glow No doubt!
At 3.7 volts (if you have good conductivity although at total of 0.2 ohms I say it would be less), assuming 0.05 ohms for nickel and 0.15 ohms for resistance wire, let's make some calculations. total amps drawn for the coil is 3.7/0.2 = 18.5A. in series as you know amp is the same so Power at resistance wire = I*I*R = 51 watts and power at the non resistance wire = 17 watts. A nickel wire although not resistive will definitely glow if it is producing 17 watts AND is not thick enough. What you want is to take down the resistance of the NR more and increase its mass. So I advise first using thicker NR (what is the gauge of your nickel by the way), this will decrease its resistance PLUS twist it to reduce more the resistance to half.
if you reach 0.01 on the NR, same calculations will give you 85 watts at the resistance but only 5 watts at the NR wire. Now you have a 0.16 ohms coil but with a very wide gap between R and NR. Bringing it back to 0.2 ohms by adding wraps at the resistance will give you 65 watts at the resistance and 3.4 watts at the non resistance.
With R, NR you always lose wattage at the NR, the question is how much.
Too much info, back to work
then twist away. I've made some 32g nickel glow like a christams tree
. You can also use Silver 30g but it has the potential of melting at these high currents and at the connection points. Now My wire of choice is 30g nickel twisted, but it is a pain to connect to terminals.
Hello Sad and Aal, had the same problem with my V2. I even didn`t go that low.(0.9 Ohm) I didn`t think to much of it, thought the wick and juice in the channel would take care of it and it works. There seems to be no problem, but when I think of it , there`s still a plastic nut on the bottom to make the connection so that`s definately a hazard. I don`t know what gauge the Ni-wire is but not very thick. Does anyone know if it`s more difficult to zap the wires together when I would use twisted NR-wires? I did find that the better the gauges of R-NR match, the easier to join them (this all with Joyner, TSAF, Zapper,...)Any thoughts?
In my case it was hard to zap any wire that's why i sold my zapper! I would say it is harder to zap twisted wires if even possible. I suggest you get a higher gauge NR. Not sure how would that affect zapping though.
Thanks aal. I still had my 28g wire from earlier with the 32g nickel nr attached to both ends. I twisted extra nickel on both ends and came to a .05 ohm build. I DIY my juice and my last batch was 60/40, with 60 being PG. Then I made another batch and this time it was a 50/50 mix...but the TH just isn't there. Even with a 1.3 build on the V2 at 11 Watts. I needed more TH. This .05 build is working with no more glowing nr wires. Next time I'll mix with more PG in my juice for more TH.
Sad, keep in mind that the fatter the wire, the less the throat hit. So, fatter wires need to be made in lower ohms.
Of course there is a balance between width of wire and ohms, because a very fat wire cant get fired at all even if ohms are the lowest
Of course there is a balance between width of wire and ohms, because a very fat wire cant get fired at all even if ohms are the lowest
Very true Imeo. I usually use 32g without a problem. I rarely do sub-ohm. But tonight with this juice I needed that extra kick.
I don't like wrapping fat wires like 28g if its more than 1 ohm because the wire takes too long to heat up. I like 32g for fast vaping.
I don't like wrapping fat wires like 28g if its more than 1 ohm because the wire takes too long to heat up. I like 32g for fast vaping.
- Status
