Petar K Method with a hybrid Wick

[sachavaca]

Hi all, I have been wrapping my coiles around a bit for almost a year now, started when i got a zenesis and the stability of the wicks was horrible. Now with my sdog I wrap a coil, spin up a un-oxidized wick, slide it in and vape with no interuptions. I agree about solid 500 wicks (solid is not the best). although I do like 500 mesh. Will keep an eye on this thread, nice job bye the way.

 

[48lowes]

if you are making an almost a 2.5 mm wick and trying to fit it in the 2.5mm wick hole....this is choking the wick basically

Funny you should ask. I did make my last one to fit perfectly in the wick hole, not enough that I have to force it. I'll get some more measurements and get back. I'm certainly not afraid to drill that wick hole out now that I have a idea of what I want. I do believe that my wicks have been wrapped to tightly. In regards to what flavors of tobacco you vape, it sounds a lot like myself, I just now have been looking around trying other stuff out.

sachavaca It's great to have you aboard. I'm kinda at a loss maybe you could give us a link or two on the silver dog, also tell us how the wick goes through the coil without oxidation.

 

[EDO]

48Lowes you forgot to answer the question...what is diameter of the air hole on the DUD you have? Usually they come at 1mm which IMHO is way too small for the DUDs...you might have to bore that out as well. You might not be having wicking issues you might actually having an issue with the size of the air hole.

Anyway I strongly suggest to bore out your wick hole to 7/64 inch. Make sure your next wick is smaller than the wick hole. Don't roll it too tight. see what happens. IF you still have problems after all this and if you air hole is 1mm bore it out to 1.5mm or 1/16 inch and see if it makes a difference.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

wrong thread, sorry guys lol

 

[petar k]

I am not sure what you mean...do you mean you make strum wick....like this:

Wick (STURM G-Tank) | G-Tank-US

I actually use this type of a wick in my GTUS atty...it is a top fed Genesis atomizer.

Or do you mean that you use a needle or pin and roll it while holding the outer edge of the wick....so to make the center of wick tighter? Petar a detailed explanation would be much appreciated.

no, i mean like this:


in this case, let's say that the black part is wick, and the white color is empty space. that empty space makes wick not to overlap its pores and wires/fibers, so e liquid can circulate "freely". and it makes wick more flexible to squeeze in coil.

I'm back today with some pics. PeterK The last thing I tried was 400-35mm tall X 30mm wide I used 4 wraps 32g kanthal @ 1.5 ohm. The o.d. of my wick was pretty tight to the 2.5mm hole
EDO I've been filling it up to the top, it still doesn't really explain it, as I've drawn it down to over half way. Even with the 400 I'm still not getting it to wick

View attachment 175859 View attachment 175860
1st pic is little blurry but I've got washers on the positive post
2nd pic hole for wick is 2.5mm

although i can't see clearly your coil/wick on those pics, but as you said - "30mm wide" - i guess that doesn't make enough space for e liquid to wick properly. you need to "lose" it a little bit

 

[Hello World]

Now I want every ones feed back on this ...so Let me share a secret.... if your juice can handle it.... slimmer is better. Next time you make a new set up use a 5/64 drill bit and make your wick very slim. I been doing this lately...wow what a difference in taste and warmth of vapor. I use about 20-25mm mesh and make a semi solid wick. The coil is 6 wraps of 32 awg kanthal. I vape it at only 6-7 watts. However all my juice are at least 80%pg and they are all tobacco flavors....so not everyone might get the same results. Now if you decide to try this ...please don't hesitate to share your opinion here.

Edo ... thanks for putting this thread up. The education has been wonderful. What does it not cover about the rudimentary get-goings in respect to gennys?

Anyone just putting his feet into genny RBAs should consider reading this thread thoroughly from beginning to end.

Did a slim semi-solid on my AGA-T2 which seems to be pretty much on par with Zen's ZAP ... somewhere's around 20 x 25. I used a wooden screw instead of drill bit to Petar K which solidly grabs into the unthreaded opening and I can spin to coil into position after wrapping it through the grooves and easily locked to the negative and the post. Then I simply back the screw out ... very consistent all around on a 4/5, 32 ga Kanthal.

I run about 8.2 - 9.3 watts on average, my juice 70PG/30VG. Yes, it's a very warm flavor also with very decent throat hit. I'm very comfortable vaping with this arrangement ... the best so far.

I got some 36 ga Kanthal coming and I'll also try that in a twisted formation and see how that goes.

Cheers.

 

[EDO]

Hello World...no problem I am glad I can help out...very glad to hear you got a good set up going. Next time you set up try out a 2mm wick with 6 wraps of 32g wire. Right now the coil I am using is....30g kanthal... 8wraps on a 2mm wick. The great things about these slimmer wicks is that you have very little heat sink effect, otherwise an 8 wrap coil would be very unresponsive on a thick solid wick.

Ok regarding twisting wires...it essentially halves the resistance of the wire. But since the resistance of the 36g wire is so high.... you will end up having the resistance that is still a little higher than 32g kanthal. Remember to do a very tight twist. I have twisted 32g wire but never 36 wire. When I twisted 32 gauge wire it was like a mini barbed wire and it kept snaging and tearing up the mesh. ...I didn't care for it. Hopefully you will have better luck. Let me know how it works out for you.

 

[Hello World]

EDO ... will give that a shot too.

A vid of interest possibly to this thread:



And again, thanks to you, Petar and others for making this thread a stellar contribution to the genny scene.

 

[sachavaca]

sachavaca It's great to have you aboard. I'm kinda at a loss maybe you could give us a link or two on the silver dog, also tell us how the wick goes through the coil without oxidation.

S-Dog - 1.6 Ohm - 0.20 Kanthal , #325 mesh - YouTube
they have a few videos about sdog

I just wash the mesh, then boil, roll it up with visable mesh grain verticle. I slide wick in coil then add juice and pulse fire. keep it wet and few pulses its ready, vape away

 

[drunkenmonk]

I've been reading this thread mainly because of my concerns regarding the oxides that may be present from torching the ss. My question is if the ss isn't oxidized, how do you keep the ss from shorting against the wick hole itself? Or am I way off in my assumptions of how this all works...

 

[EDO]

S-Dog - 1.6 Ohm - 0.20 Kanthal , #325 mesh - YouTube
they have a few videos about sdog

I just wash the mesh, then boil, roll it up with visable mesh grain verticle. I slide wick in coil then add juice and pulse fire. keep it wet and few pulses its ready, vape away

Always adjust your coils when its dry. You want to see all the coils glowing evenly before adding juice. Let me emphasize it again.... The most important thing you can do is to make sure all the wires are glowing evenly. Usually when I set up and fire up all the coils will glow evenly ....if not I pulse until they do......then I add the liquid.....and do wet burns ( 5 x 10 seconds).

 

[EDO]

I've been reading this thread mainly because of my concerns regarding the oxides that may be present from torching the ss. My question is if the ss isn't oxidized, how do you keep the ss from shorting against the wick hole itself? Or am I way off in my assumptions of how this all works...

Well you always make the wick a little smaller than the wick hole....YOu don't want to choke the wick even if the wick is oxidized. If you have been reading some of my latest posts I am making my wicks very slim. My cobra has 2.5mm wick hole....but I am making my wicks considerably smaller at 2mm. Not only do I get a much more flavor vape with slimmer wicks, but I can put the fill screw in without it effecting the wicking. The great thing about that is it makes your device leak proof (you can lay it on its side). Also when you close off the fill hole....your juices will no longer get darker when vaping....because there will be no creeping juice coming back down the wick. I had a certain Juice that would get 50 shades darker when vaping with my gennys....now it doesn't get a shade darker until I get down to the last tenth of juice that is left in the tank.

 

[sachavaca]

Always adjust your coils when its dry. .

I dont adjust coils, If it does not fire properly I twist wick till it does

 

[drunkenmonk]

Well you always make the wick a little smaller than the wick hole....YOu don't want to choke the wick even if the wick is oxidized. If you have been reading some of my latest posts I am making my wicks very slim. My cobra has 2.5mm wick hole....but I am making my wicks considerably smaller at 2mm. Not only do I get a much more flavor vape with slimmer wicks, but I can put the fill screw in without it effecting the wicking. The great thing about that is it makes your device leak proof (you can lay it on its side). Also when you close off the fill hole....your juices will no longer get darker when vaping....because there will be no creeping juice coming back down the wick. I had a certain Juice that would get 50 shades darker when vaping with my gennys....now it doesn't get a shade darker until I get down to the last tenth of juice that is left in the tank.

I guess the wick then floats in the center of the hole without touching the sides? This is my concern, that if it touches even a bit it will short against the atty body, but I guess if the coil is not touching the wick substantially then there can be no short? Or is it just best practice to avoid any contact?

 

[EDO]

I dont adjust coils, If it does not fire properly I twist wick till it does

As long as all the coils are glowing evenly before adding the juice... then all is good.

 

[EDO]

I guess the wick then floats in the center of the hole without touching the sides? This is my concern, that if it touches even a bit it will short against the atty body, but I guess if the coil is not touching the wick substantially then there can be no short? Or is it just best practice to avoid any contact?

I have never had that problem....my wick sometimes touch the bottom of the atty and I never had a short error message because of it. NOw of course you don't want to deliberately touch the sides or the bottom....but I don't think it is a big deal.

 

[drunkenmonk]

Ok, thanks for the info and the great post EDO

 

[Hello World]

Always adjust your coils when its dry. You want to see all the coils glowing evenly before adding juice. Let me emphasize it again.... The most important thing you can do is to make sure all the wires are glowing evenly. Usually when I set up and fire up all the coils will glow evenly ....if not I pulse until they do......then I add the liquid.....and do wet burns ( 5 x 10 seconds).

I came across a little tool at the local liquidators yesterday which does an amazing job adjusting the coils, beats a needle tip hands down: Dental Scaler

I guess the wick then floats in the center of the hole without touching the sides? This is my concern, that if it touches even a bit it will short against the atty body, but I guess if the coil is not touching the wick substantially then there can be no short? Or is it just best practice to avoid any contact?

What I did on my AGA-T2 is oxidize only the bottom tip of the wick, a drop of juice on it, burn with BIC lighter ... and repeat 3 times. I did this as a precaution as my wick is touching the bottom of my tank and it's not shorting out.

 

[48lowes]

what is diameter of the air hole on the DUD you have?
........... post 103

It's a 1.6 mm screw so IDK what the threads take up but the hole is pretty small ? 1mm ?

"30mm wide" - i guess that doesn't make enough space for e liquid to wick properly. you need to "lose" it a little bit
...........post 105

I'm going to try lesser amount of screen

S-Dog -S-Dog - 1.6 Ohm - 0.20 Kanthal , #325 mesh - YouTube
..........post 109

now that's what I'm shooting for

EDO.........post 112

before getting my drill out I'm going to shoot for this setup. I'm sure I can duplicate it dimension wise, otherwise IDK I'm still going to use #32 kanthal

Ok, thanks for the info and the great post EDO .......drunkenmonk.......post 117

ditto

 

[EDO]

48 Lowes you have to slow down a little...I am asking about your air hole not your fill hole or wick hole. The stock air hole on most of these DUDs is 1mm. If you have a 1mm air hole then this might be your problem.

Now another thing that makes a difference....specially with 500 mesh.....is the grain of the mesh. When you hold up your mesh against a light you will notice the mesh has a definitive stronger grain running through it. When the wick is rolled up.... you want that grain to be running top to bottom on the wick. It doesn't make much of difference on a 325 mesh but on 500 mesh it really makes a big difference from what I have been told.