Please allow me to introduce myself

[Skwij]

You will also need one for squonking, one for building, one for leaving the house, one for high wattage, one for high resistance endurance, one for the car, one for the patio, one for dripping flavours, one for friends, and a back up for each.

Hey waitaminnit......you been spying on me?

LOL just kidding, but that's my philosophy to a T.

You forgot the testing tootlepuffer atties, tootlepuffer drippers, and the fact that one needs to carry TWO so that you've got different flavours to puff through the day, so that the taste buds don't get tired and bored.
Oh, and the car kit comprised of 3 drippers for testing flavours at the local vape shop.

 

[Zazie]

It would appear I have already burnt out my first coil (1.6 ohm). Maybe the faulty o ring was the culprit. Maybe it was because I flooded the coil when I primed it. I know I started off slowly and raised the wattage gradually, so I don't think that was the problem, and I never went higher than the maximum wattage for which the coil is rated and indeed stuck to the minimum once I'd done fooling around with it when I was getting started. In any case, for whatever reason, yesterday I started getting an unpleasant taste of burnt chemicals and after suffering through that through today, I bit the bullet and decided to replace the coi. I'm trying the .8 ohm coil this time around. I primed it very carefully, putting drops only in the side holes. I've filled the tank and I'm letting it sit overnight before I take my first puff. Maybe tomorrow I'll be rewarded with less disgusting flavor. I sure hope so. It's been a rough day, especially for my poor throat.

 

[Zazie]

That would be correct. You dont need a 25 or 30 amp battery if you only vape under 75 watts, as my chart above shows.

I vape under 30 watts on a 75 watt mod. A Samsung 30Q 3000mah 15A battery (good for up to 45 watts) works great and allows me nearly a full days use with one battery. A 30 amp battery with only 1500 mah would last about half that time.

Since you've already given me battery advice, may I ask you for a bit more? I'm finally charging my batteries (Samsung 30Q 3000mah 15A), but I'm not sure which voltage is best to use. Is it all right to charge at the lowest voltage (.5 on the charger I bought)? I've read here and there that charging at a lower voltage is better for the batteries, but the instructions that came with the charger (an XTAR VP2) recommend 1A for batteries over 2000 mah. Which is true?

 

[Baditude]

1A is fine, but don't take my word on it.

• Battery Charge Current Ratings Table

 

[Zazie]

Thanks for answering so quickly. So, it's probably okay to charge at 1A, but would it be better to go lower? I misspoke before--the XTAR can actually charge at .25A. Would it be easier on my batteries if I charged them that slowly?

 

[Zazie]

Well, I just realized that was a video for me to watch, which I've now done and dropped the charge rate accordingly (to .5A). Now I just have to get in a supply of wraps and caps. More research. For tomorrow.

 

[Baditude]

Theoretically, slower is "probably" better for the battery's overall life expectancy. But realistically and practically, I'm not convinced it is worth it. It's only when you charge over 1 amp that starts to really influence the "health" of the batteries in a negative way. If it were me, I'd charge at 1A.

Vaping for seven years now and I have never had to re-wrap a battery yet. I take great care of my batteries. If not in a mod or charger, they are stored in a small plastic battery case. I take care when removing them from the mod or charger so that the wraps are not damaged.

 

[Zazie]

My Pico 25 arrived has finally arrived! (It took fifteen days to make the trip from Singapore.) I was very frustrated at first when I thought I'd have to wait to try it till I'd carefully primed a new coil, but then I remembered I could use the tank that was on the Kroma-A and was thwarted no more. (For reference, the Zenith tank fits on the Pico 25 just fine.)

It's interesting being able to compare the two devices. So far, I like the Pico 25's screen better--it's brighter and doesn't turn off as quickly--but don't love the up and down buttons on the base. At first, I thought I preferred the feel of the Kroma-A (its curved shape and the textured plastic make it nice to grip), but then I realized the Pico is slightly lighter, which my arthritic thumb appreciates, and its slightly shorter height lets me hold it more comfortably than the Kroma-A. I also like that you can adjust the wattage in .1 increments.

I guess at this point the Pico is winning.

On a completely different note, yesterday I read that it's a good idea to take batteries out of the charger just before they're fully charged, because the last 10 percent puts the most stress on the battery. Thoughts?

 

[Baditude]

On a completely different note, yesterday I read that it's a good idea to take batteries out of the charger just before they're fully charged, because the last 10 percent puts the most stress on the battery. Thoughts?

If you have the patience and time to hover over your charger to do that, more power to you.

Practically speaking, most of use don't have the time or patience to do that. What you read is true technically speaking. The problem is some of the cheaper unsophisticated chargers on the market provide a "trickle charge" to the batteries once they are fully charged, to keep them fully topped off at 4.2 volts.

My Xtar VP4 charger stops charging once they are fully charged, and if left undisturbed in the charger the batteries naturally fall in voltage to around 4.0 volts.

@rolygate was considered the battery expert on this forum long before there was @Mooch. He said the following:

"Rest batteries after charging.
One commonly-reported factor in almost all the incidents we hear of where batteries failed violently while in use is that they were taken directly off the charger and then used immediately, at which point they failed.

Because of this, we think it may be a good idea to rest batteries after charging them. This advice will not be found in the usual 'reference bibles' on batteries, but we see more and different reports than others. Therefore we now advise:

Do not use batteries directly after charging them. Use a battery or batteries you previously charged, and that have rested for several hours. This is especially important if using a stacked pair for higher voltage, as statistically the risk is far higher." -- Rechargeable Batteries
​

The above suggestion was controversial and was based on anectdotal observation only and not on any scientific principles.

This is what Battery University has to say:

"Li-ion cannot absorb overcharge. When fully charged, the charge current must be cut off. A continuous trickle charge would cause plating of metallic lithium and compromise safety. To minimize stress, keep the lithium-ion battery at the peak cut-off as short as possible.

Once the charge is terminated, the battery voltage begins to drop. This eases the voltage stress. Over time, the open circuit voltage will settle to between 3.70V and 3.90V/cell. Note that a Li-ion battery that has received a fully saturated charge will keep the voltage elevated for a longer than one that has not received a saturation charge.

When lithium-ion batteries must be left in the charger for operational readiness, some chargers apply a brief topping charge to compensate for the small self-discharge the battery and its protective circuit consume. The charger may kick in when the open circuit voltage drops to 4.05V/cell and turn off again at 4.20V/cell. Chargers made for operational readiness, or standby mode, often let the battery voltage drop to 4.00V/cell and recharge to only 4.05V/cell instead of the full 4.20V/cell. This reduces voltage-related stress and prolongs battery life.

Some portable devices sit in a charge cradle in the ON position. The current drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and can distort the charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loads while charging because they induce mini-cycles. This cannot always be avoided and a laptop connected to the AC main is such a case. The battery might be charged to 4.20V/cell and then discharged by the device. The stress level on the battery is high because the cycles occur at the high-voltage threshold, often also at elevated temperature.

A portable device should be turned off during charge. This allows the battery to reach the set voltage threshold and current saturation point unhindered. A parasitic load confuses the charger by depressing the battery voltage and preventing the current in the saturation stage to drop low enough by drawing a leakage current. A battery may be fully charged, but the prevailing conditions will prompt a continued charge, causing stress.

Simple Guidelines for Charging Lithium-based Batteries

• Turn off the device or disconnect the load on charge to allow the current to drop unhindered during saturation. A parasitic load confuses the charger.
• Charge at a moderate temperature. Do not charge at freezing temperature. (See BU-410: Charging at High and Low Temperatures)
• Lithium-ion does not need to be fully charged; a partial charge is better.
• Not all chargers apply a full topping charge and the battery may not be fully charged when the “ready” signal appears; a 100 percent charge on a fuel gauge may be a lie.
• Discontinue using charger and/or battery if the battery gets excessively warm.
• Apply some charge to an empty battery before storing (40–50 percent SoC is ideal). (See BU-702: How to Store Batteries.)"

So to answer your question, I think it boils down to what type of charger are you using and how does it handle a fully charged battery? Does it truly cut off charging and allow the battery to fall in voltage naturally (good), or does it continue to "top off" the battery as trickle chargers do? (not as good)

 

[Zazie]

I'm happy to say I took that resting suggestion to heart as soon as I read it a few days ago, Baditude. In fact, I charged my batteries yesterday because I expected the Pico to arrive soon and I wanted to be sure I had a well-rested battery to pop into it when it arrived.

It's good to know I can rely on the Xtar VP2 to shut off once the charge is complete, but I probably will remove the batteries a hair before the end of the charging cycle whenever I'm on the ball enough to do so. Last night, I noticed that the batteries charged for quite a number of minutes when they were supposedly at 4.2. Research told me this was normal, and I left them in the charger to the bitter end just to be sure the light turned green, but henceforward I'll remove them earlier if I happen to notice.

Thank you yet again for your incredible patience.

 

[Opinionated]

Welcome to ECF!

 

[Zazie]

It would appear I need something to test flavors. Research seems to be telling me that a nonrebuildable 510 drip (dripping?) atomizer would suit my purpose (I can't build my own because my hands are wonky). Unsurprisingly, I'd prefer something that is not madly expensive. And I guess I'd want a higher-ohm coil because I'm an MTL vaper? Am I even making sense?

 

[Opinionated]

It would appear I need something to test flavors. Research seems to be telling me that a nonrebuildable 510 drip (dripping?) atomizer would suit my purpose (I can't build my own because my hands are wonky). Unsurprisingly, I'd prefer something that is not madly expensive. And I guess I'd want a higher-ohm coil because I'm an MTL vaper? Am I even making sense?

You make perfect sense. However, I'm not sure people who dont build actually test flavors..

What your talking about, likely from something you've read, is an RDA.. however, those ARE rebuildable.

The reason people use an RDA for trying out or testing out new flavors is that you can easily change out the cotton and change to a whole different flavor in seconds flat - something you can't do with any non-rebuildable or tank style atomizer.

Your best bet, and about all you can do when you dont build is just add the new juice to your tank and decide whether or not your like it, the normal way.

Others may have suggestions for you, but I always just did a tank tryout.. I've always stuck with flavor profiles I know I liked, and it worked for me.

 

[Zazie]

You make perfect sense. However, I'm not sure people who dont build actually test flavors..

What your talking about, likely from something you've read, is an RDA.. however, those ARE rebuildable.

The reason people use an RDA for trying out or testing out new flavors is that you can easily change out the cotton and change to a whole different flavor in seconds flat - something you can't do with any non-rebuildable or tank style atomizer.

Your best bet, and about all you can do when you dont build is just add the new juice to your tank and decide whether or not your like it, the normal way.

Others may have suggestions for you, but I always just did a tank tryout.. I've always stuck with flavor profiles I know I liked, and it worked for me.

Rats. I suppose I could get a small tank for the purpose. I'm okay for now, at least, since I still have some G6 batteries and minitanks kicking around. They'll serve.

So do people who drip only use RDAs? I guess that would make sense, since the cotton must need to be changed regularly.

I will never be a builder, sadly. My fingers are too clumsy, and my eyes rebel at close work.

 

[Opinionated]

Rats. I suppose I could get a small tank for the purpose. I'm okay for now, at least, since I still have some G6 batteries and minitanks kicking around. They'll serve.

So do people who drip only use RDAs? I guess that would make sense, since the cotton must need to be changed regularly.

I will never be a builder, sadly. My fingers are too clumsy, and my eyes rebel at close work.

You are replacing your "replacement atomizer heads" or "coils" periodically in whatever your now vaping correct?

When I was vaping all the time I was changing my factory replacement atomizer head or coil every 5-7 days.. of course, this does vary from person to person depending on how much juice you vape daily and how sweet your juices are etc.. but they all need changed from time to time..

Also, have you gone through some of the vaping terminology?

Vaping Terminology

^^^ link

 

[Baditude]

It would appear I need something to test flavors. Research seems to be telling me that a nonrebuildable 510 drip (dripping?) atomizer would suit my purpose (I can't build my own because my hands are wonky). Unsurprisingly, I'd prefer something that is not madly expensive. And I guess I'd want a higher-ohm coil because I'm an MTL vaper? Am I even making sense?

You don't need a rebuildable drip atomizer to sample flavors. What you are describing is a disposable 510 drip atomizer. We used to use them back in the day to test flavors before there were rebuildable atomizers. In fact, the 510 drip atomizer were the only juice attachment many vapors had to vape with before the cartomizer and clearomizer.

There are admittedly not as popular as they once were, so it is getting more difficult to find vendors still selling them. Luckily, those that do sell them do so relatively inexpensively, so if you find them useful it may be worth your while to stock up on them.

Joytech 510 drip atomizer

 

[Zazie]

You just made the post I was composing redundant, @Baditude. I was speculating about the existence of just such an object. And that nice Canadian fellow answered another question I was about to pose, and now I know that, yes, I can remove the filler from a cartomizer and drip onto the coil. This pleases my frugal side, since I have about a dozen of the things hanging around (I hated them almost immediately) and now I'll have a use for them.

I found a 510 bridgeless atomizer for $2.95 but the shipping, while free within Canada, is exorbitant to the US. It's too bad I've fallen out of touch with my once numerous Canadian acquaintances (I live only a few minutes from the border). I'm sure one of them would have been happy to order the things for me. Oh well.

Thanks!

 

[Opinionated]

You don't need a rebuildable drip atomizer to sample flavors. What you are describing is a disposable 510 drip atomizer. We used to use them back in the day to test flavors before there were rebuildable atomizers. In fact, the 510 drip atomizer were all many vapors had to vape with before the cartomizer and clearomizer.

There are admittedly not as popular as they once were, so it is getting more difficult to find vendors still selling them. Luckily, those that do sell them do so relatively inexpensively, so if you find them useful it may be worth your while to stock up on them.

Joytech 510 drip atomizer

Oh wow that one is new on me! Learn somethin new every day!

 

[Baditude]

You just made the post I was composing redundant, @Baditude. I was speculating about the existence of just such an object. And that nice Canadian fellow answered another question I was about to pose, and now I know that, yes, I can remove the filler from a cartomizer and drip onto the coil. This pleases my frugal side, since I have about a dozen of the things hanging around (I hated them almost immediately) and now I'll have a use for them.

I found a 510 bridgeless atomizer for $2.95 but the shipping, while free within Canada, is exorbitant to the US. It's too bad I've fallen out of touch with my once numerous Canadian acquaintances (I live only a few minutes from the border). I'm sure one of them would have been happy to order the things for me. Oh well.

Do a Google search for: 510 drip atomizer

Joytech and Avid Vapor (higher end) were the more common brands.

You'll need a 510 drip tip to be able to vape it or you'll burn your lips.

You should be able to find vendors in both countries that sell them, but as I said before they are no longer popular and many vendors have stopped carrying them.

I wouldn't recommend trying to remove the filler wick material from a cartomizer in an attempt to make a 510 drip atomizer. Its not as easy as you might think. You are likely to destroy the fragile wiring that is within the filler and cause a short.

 

[Zazie]

I removed the filler from a G6 cartomizer, put in a couple of drops of juice, and got three puffs off it with no difficulty. Now, whether it will ever work again is another question. Since otherwise it would only be languishing in a cupboard, I will not be too distressed if I ruined it.

As I said, as long as my G6 batteries hold out, I can use the many minitanks I have on hand to test flavors. I probably won't need to think about finding anything else for a year, when you come down to it.