This may be a good addition if you use a Protank on a Poldiac clone:
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Protank II, Protank 3, Aerotank
Kanger Airflow Control Valve - Protank II, Protank 3, Aerotank
Poldiac Clone
- Thread starter the4thpower3
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Well folks I have received mine today from FT so I'm subscribing, so far I've added a small o-ring under the head of the atomizer adjustment screw so it doesn't get screwed in when screwing on the atty. Seems to do the trick, we'll see.
8 hours later, I have taken it to work with me, only complaint is having to apply more pressure to the button to get it to fire than what I fell should be required.
When I get home I guess I"ll take the switch section apart and see if something can be done with it.
It's not that hard of a press to get it to fire but like I said a little harder than expected.
Other than that I really like it.
4 more hours later and at home, disassembled switch, the only thing seen that I didn't like was the plastic switch body wasn't centered in the metal housing, not left to right but top to bottom. I added a thin paper like gasket to space down a fuzz.
Now the button is "normal" as far as how hard it needs pressed, seems to hit a lot harder now to.
I had to re-glue the one magnet to the switch also.
Now to see if it passes the beer test.....................I work nights,,it's my night time now
8 hours later, I have taken it to work with me, only complaint is having to apply more pressure to the button to get it to fire than what I fell should be required.
When I get home I guess I"ll take the switch section apart and see if something can be done with it.
It's not that hard of a press to get it to fire but like I said a little harder than expected.
Other than that I really like it.
4 more hours later and at home, disassembled switch, the only thing seen that I didn't like was the plastic switch body wasn't centered in the metal housing, not left to right but top to bottom. I added a thin paper like gasket to space down a fuzz.
Now the button is "normal" as far as how hard it needs pressed, seems to hit a lot harder now to.
I had to re-glue the one magnet to the switch also.
Now to see if it passes the beer test.....................I work nights,,it's my night time now
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I have measured the resistance on the battery spring of the DaVape clone and it is good, almost nothing.
Measured voltage on the posts of my 0.55 Ω Taifun dripper and it matched my brass CYc using the same battery.
Measured voltage on the posts of my 0.55 Ω Taifun dripper and it matched my brass CYc using the same battery.
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I came to the conclusion that the button was bottoming out before the contact was made well on the pins so I very carefully sanded down the end of the button where the one magnet is glued, I took off very little 'cause I can always take more off later, care must be taken to keep it square and flat. I believe I have it licked this time around though.
I figure they copied the plastic switch housing correctly but I'm thinking perhaps the magnets might be a little thicker, just thinking out load.
So far I'm very satisfied with my results on the switch. (that changed)
I figure they copied the plastic switch housing correctly but I'm thinking perhaps the magnets might be a little thicker, just thinking out load.
So far I'm very satisfied with my results on the switch. (that changed)
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Thanks for the update on the switch.
I have one of the DaVapes clones I got from VR. It works good, but I do have to press the switch down fully and quite firmly to get it to make contact. Mine probably has the same issue as yours did. I will take the switch apart and check it out.
I liked this clone so much that it is the mod I use about 90% of the time since I got it. I like it so much that I have ordered a real Poldiac Aname V2 from MMV.
I've been spending a considerable amount of time looking at getting a real one... for the same reasons
Until I got this clone I had been using only regulated mods. But after using it I now know I only want to use mechanicals in the future. I really like the side fire button on the clone, but I know it will not last forever and there are no spare parts to be had for it.
The spare parts availability from MMV is great, in fact you can order every piece and build a Poldiac for about the same cost as a complete mod from them. This just shows they do not inflate the cost of parts if you need them in the future.
Switch Alert - DaVape clone
Well I'm still messing with my switch, I'm sure this will be of great interest to some folks.
That short metal contact that sits in the middle of the button is STAINLESS STEEL, I just got done replacing it with a piece of solid electrical wire (12 AWG), now I 'm getting somewhere.
It takes no effort on the button now, I'll post about it later as all the other times that I was into it it would work good but soon fizzle out.
Well I'm still messing with my switch, I'm sure this will be of great interest to some folks.
That short metal contact that sits in the middle of the button is STAINLESS STEEL, I just got done replacing it with a piece of solid electrical wire (12 AWG), now I 'm getting somewhere.
It takes no effort on the button now, I'll post about it later as all the other times that I was into it it would work good but soon fizzle out.
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A Facebook friend also says:
"poke the pin out and get a piece of 110v solid copper wire, measure it and cut it, polish it and slap it in here. works great"
and
"what i did though is i cut the wire about an inch long and chucked it up in a dremel and polished it with mothers mag polish, then measured and cut it and smoothed the edges...looks like a factory pin..LOL...hits much better also."
So far so good, I haven't had not one "mystery fire" so far, had I forked out $200 or so for the real one I would be happy with it's switch if it worked as good as mine does now.
Received mine from Fasttech today. Happy with it.
No complaints. Screws and spring are silver plated. I configured mine with a 18650 and kick. Wife will probably take it, as she likes a simple device and it's like a fancy 18650 Ego with VW. I did change my Protank2 to a aero base from My Vapor Store for air flow and installed a #60 o-ring under the top contact screw as others have. It is necessary.
Other than the o-ring, I only had to adjust the larger bottom screw under the switch to align the button, which was hanging up a little. It worked ok, but wasn't flush on the bottom before adjustment.
I've only used it a couple hours, but really like the thing. The button on mine is very smooth and requires very light pressure. Absolutely no rattles and the sleeves fit perfectly. Overall, it performs as well as my Nemesis clone with a Protank.
Used the O-rings from Lowes in the plumbing department. They are size #60 made by Danco. The size is 1/4 OD x 1/8 ID x 1/16 thickness.
I'll post again after I use it a bit.
No complaints. Screws and spring are silver plated. I configured mine with a 18650 and kick. Wife will probably take it, as she likes a simple device and it's like a fancy 18650 Ego with VW. I did change my Protank2 to a aero base from My Vapor Store for air flow and installed a #60 o-ring under the top contact screw as others have. It is necessary.
Other than the o-ring, I only had to adjust the larger bottom screw under the switch to align the button, which was hanging up a little. It worked ok, but wasn't flush on the bottom before adjustment.
I've only used it a couple hours, but really like the thing. The button on mine is very smooth and requires very light pressure. Absolutely no rattles and the sleeves fit perfectly. Overall, it performs as well as my Nemesis clone with a Protank.
Used the O-rings from Lowes in the plumbing department. They are size #60 made by Danco. The size is 1/4 OD x 1/8 ID x 1/16 thickness.
I'll post again after I use it a bit.
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The only thing I don't like about this mod is that it seems you have to push the battery harder and harder at times. Even when I have to change batteries, I can take the old battery and use it a bit more in my Magneto. I like it for around the house but I think I would be a little nervous taking it out with me if I was going to be gone for very long.
I like mine so well since I got the switch working properly that I'm working on getting another one, but not the DaVape brand, looking to get the Asmart but it seems to be branded "Infinite" or something close to it.
I would buy another from FT but they are "sold out", what a buy for $33
I would buy another from FT but they are "sold out", what a buy for $33
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I may get another from FT, as I really like the one I have. I expect they'll be back in stock after Chinese New Year and the price is great.
Ya maybe I should just wait, I like it real good also but if I'm going to pay the higher price I want the other brand. (at least I think I do)
I bought my Asmart from Bucky. He said he has some for the store but i don't see them on his website. I'm still waiting on my DaVape from Fasttech so i can't compare yet but i know one of the main differences is that the Asmart battery and 510 pin are reverse threaded.
Like posts above, go ahead and get an o-ring for the DaVape top 510 pin. It is the only "flaw" I've found and simple to correct. The screw is ridiculously loose without it.
I have an Oring in mine and the voltage drop is so high that it will barely fire any atty I put on it, that's after I fiddle with it for 5 minutes and it decides to fire at all. Pos...
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Make sure the top adjustable positive screw is making good contact with the positive post on the 510 connector of your atty. Back the positive screw out until when you try to screw your atty on it will not sit flush with the top cap of the mod. Do not force screw the atty down, stop when you feel contact. Then screw the positive screw down a little at a time until your atty makes contact with it just before it contacts the top cap of the mod. I have used one of these for a month now and all I have done is the oring trick to keep this positive screw from moving after I get it adjusted correctly and replaced the bottom steel spring with a Rhodium over silver coated brass spring..
I am going to replace the stainless steel connector pin in the switch with a copper one. You do have to fully press the button down for it to fire.
With just the oring and spring I am only getting a .4 voltage drop when I test it.
Very good find using the 12AWG wire as pin. That's the only real complaint I've had (partial connection) and even that's not bad as I'm accustomed to Chinese quality control lol.
Very pleased with my $33 clone!
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Very pleased with my $33 clone!
Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk 2
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