possible to add only one coil instead two to get more ohm?

Ohm does not determine heat.... the amount of metal does that.

Ohm only determines the wattage result from feeding a coil volts.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

 

1 Bag Geekvape Clapton Wire - $0.01
HURRY!!!
They are .9Ω each , ~.45Ω dual.

If you are forming your own coils, try some 26awg SS316.
Utilize the STEAMENGINE.

Cheers
I

 

Some dual coil atomizers you can build a diagonal coil across the posts or some come with an airflow reducer/block off one side of the airflow, etc. I don't have that atomizer so I couldn't say with certainty.

I will say, that may be a tough build for your first build, I'm not the hugest fan of drop in decks they tend to be smaller, fiddley, and you are correct, building two coils will halve your resistance AND you will have more mass in your build. This often requires higher wattage to get a satisfactory vape.

I'd suggest trying to find a balance between the thickness of wire, and also check steam engine to see what coils and gauges of wire will minimize the amount of wraps needed to get the most satisfactory balance between resistance and needing to build a higher ohm's coil.

My (genuine) suggestion would be to buy a single coil DL RTA or RDA and start with that, unless you are SUPER dexterous and good at building and installing. I would have walked away from rebuildables altogether without that suggestion, honestly. I have a fine motor tremor though, so I'm kind of COIL challenged. Also, your dual coils (if that is the only thing you can build) really need to be equal in terms of build and installation, and that can sometimes be a challenge early on.

I would seriously consider starting with something else (personally) but some folks start out that way, with a deck from a drop in coil and do great with it, so it's also not an IMPOSSIBLE task, it just may be... harder. Although, "hard" can also be a great way to learn.

Best of luck whatever you decide.

Amna

 

You will not be able to do that with the Baby RBA. It has Velocity style posts and there's no way to straddle the deck with a single coil. Plus, the juice ports are designed and placed to take juice up in four places and it would take an amazing feat of redneck engineering to get wick material in all four ports with the two tails from a single coil.

A solution to reduce metal mass and energy requirements would be to build two 1.0 Ohm coils from 28awg plain single wire with a 2.5mm or 3.0mm inner diameter. That would give you a total build resistance of 0.50 Ohms and enough wick mass to move a lot of juice through the coils.

 

Sure... Do you have some 30awg in the vape box?


Cheers
I

 

Yes!

As @Izan points out, you can shift to a thinner gauge wire to increase resistance. You could also add wraps to the thicker gauge. BUT...that would increase metal mass, which would in turn increase the amount of power needed to reach a suitable vaping temperature. That's counter to your goals, so it's better to drop to a thinner wire.

There is a tradeoff--the thinner the wire, the more difficult it is to work with and the less durable the coil.

The Steam Engine website is a fantastic resource that lets you play with different wire types and coil parameters and get the kind of build you want before you start cutting and wrapping.

 

If you are using a mech, yes, but if your mod is regulated no. So in other words, if you have dual coils and run them at 35 watts you should get the same heat/power as a single coil twice the size of one of the dual coils at 35 watts. Just adjust the wattage and your (regulated) mod will calculate and deliver the required amount of volts.

So bigger coils -> more wattage, smaller coils -> less wattage. Regardless of ohms and all that.

Your battery life should also be more or less the same in both cases.

 

change from two coils to one (of the same specs) and you will double your resistance (ohms)

 

As far as I know, the Smokstick x8 is a simple passthrough device, and acts just like a mech.

@hanswurst31
Building higher resistance coils on a mech/passthrough device might look like a good idea to save on batterylife at first glance.
But as the resistance of the coil rises, vapequality might decease rapidly with each puff, because when the battery is drained with each puff, the voltage drops .
That might even get you to the point where you get less effective vaping time, because the battery just doesn't deliver enough volts to heat up the coil and therefore to give you a satisfying vape, although the battery is still half charged.

Example:
Ignoring any losses due to the circuitry of the mod, at 0.25ohms and the fully charged battery at 4.2V you get a max of 70watts and at the estimated cutoff voltage of 3.2V a minimum of about 40watts.
If you double the resistance to 0.5ohms however, the max will be at 35W and the minimum at 20W. Although the 35W might suffice to give you a good vape, 20W are very weak for a DTL draw, so you'd possibly like to charge your battery much earlier, than with a 0.25ohm coil.
If you double the resistance again to 1ohm, we're at a puny max of 17.5W and a minimum of 10W. That's just not enough for a DTL vape for most of the vapers out there. It's a good range for tootle puffers however.

 

Oh.. I assumed it was regulated. My bad.