Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
They started out pretty good (at least from my exp.) The WSFP I got from them was spot on back in July/Aug... after seeing some of the pics and reading the stories on here though not sure I would chance it again... My guess is that they grew too rapidly and were unable to scale their quality control as the volume increased. Happens a lot to a lot of start-ups unfortunately.
I still use SW I just ordered another Gdeal complete unit.(Orange and White) I know there a little slower and a tad bit more expensive. They have sent me good product, there shipping to me is really fast and probably the best reason for me anyway is S web site Sucks!! I can't get it to work on my Mac at al.l I tried a few times to go on there site and finally gave up.
Anyone have experience with a 306 on a GDNA? I Was thinking about building one for a friend but need to wean him into RBAs. Sorry if I missed a previous post, search failed and almost 300 pages of post hard to remember.
Well it seems fine. Air seems restricted, but I forgot how 306 atties work. So really I dunno. Not sure if the air problem us from the Peko or the atty.
I've decided to build one of these but I have a few questions before I pull the trigger on a body.
1) If I want plastic should I go with Shapeway or Sculpteo. I think I read the Sculpteo takes less prep work but the Shapeway kit says something about fatdaddy 510. So are they both the same? Both use FD 510 and 3/16 magnets? Is so, which 3d shop should I go with Shapeway or Sculpteo?
2) Since I'm late to this party and missed out on the co-op for the parts kit is there still a complete parts kit to be had? Perhaps someone has an extra they would be willing to sell? I just want to be certain I can still source all these parts and ordering them all individually will be a pain and a shipping cost hassle.
3) The 510 connector... have we arrived at a standard? Do I use a FD classic 510 connector and #6-32 vented screw with 1mm hole? Or is there something better as of this date? Is this what I need for the shapeway version that reads "fatdaddy 510"? Do the shapeway and sculpteo both use the same?
4) dna 30 or 40. Can either be used? I think most are building them with the dna40 now, correct? I remember reading the dna40 is easier since you're not required to solder 3 wires to one solder point. 30w is fine with me but easy sounds good since this will be my first diy mod. I've been vaping a reo exclusively for the past 2 years. I did pick up a yihi sx350mini recently which is very nice but I'm stuck on bottom feeding at this point so I guess I'll have to build my own.
Thanks for any input, I just wish to be certain and not screw this up before I even get started.
cheers
1) If I want plastic should I go with Shapeway or Sculpteo. I think I read the Sculpteo takes less prep work but the Shapeway kit says something about fatdaddy 510. So are they both the same? Both use FD 510 and 3/16 magnets? Is so, which 3d shop should I go with Shapeway or Sculpteo?
2) Since I'm late to this party and missed out on the co-op for the parts kit is there still a complete parts kit to be had? Perhaps someone has an extra they would be willing to sell? I just want to be certain I can still source all these parts and ordering them all individually will be a pain and a shipping cost hassle.
3) The 510 connector... have we arrived at a standard? Do I use a FD classic 510 connector and #6-32 vented screw with 1mm hole? Or is there something better as of this date? Is this what I need for the shapeway version that reads "fatdaddy 510"? Do the shapeway and sculpteo both use the same?
4) dna 30 or 40. Can either be used? I think most are building them with the dna40 now, correct? I remember reading the dna40 is easier since you're not required to solder 3 wires to one solder point. 30w is fine with me but easy sounds good since this will be my first diy mod. I've been vaping a reo exclusively for the past 2 years. I did pick up a yihi sx350mini recently which is very nice but I'm stuck on bottom feeding at this point so I guess I'll have to build my own.
Thanks for any input, I just wish to be certain and not screw this up before I even get started.
cheers
I'll second Sculpteo. Have a shop now at both, and I can with all honesty say that Sculpteo produces a far better print than Shapeways, and does so quicker. Well worth the slight increase in cost.
My sculpeto order was perfect white polished plastic. Shipping from ups I can't say the same however. . San Francisco to ten miles frome my house in so cal to Kentucky bounced around down there for a few days then back to socal and to my house 3 days later .....::end vent:: my vote is for sculpeto. ...pull the trigger!
Thank you very much mates. Every question answered (for now). Today I'll order the kit from Sculpteo and a dna40. Then to start sourcing all the other parts.
Gdeal is the man!
Cheers
Gdeal is the man!
Cheers
Different bottom shell lengths... I noticed that the copper painted gdna was considerably taller than others and that the top magnets didn't have that nice snug magnetic pull when putting the top on.
The 3 shells on the left side need trimming. So I started with the tallest one and took about 1/8" off the top end with a wobbly disk sander. Almost a disaster but a hand file rescued it... Will try another trimming method on the others.
I've not seen much reference to others dealing with this and since half of my shells are too tall it makes me think the odds of needing a top trim are pretty good. Getting the magnets so they are just at, or very near, touching makes a big difference.
The 3 shells on the left side need trimming. So I started with the tallest one and took about 1/8" off the top end with a wobbly disk sander. Almost a disaster but a hand file rescued it... Will try another trimming method on the others.
I've not seen much reference to others dealing with this and since half of my shells are too tall it makes me think the odds of needing a top trim are pretty good. Getting the magnets so they are just at, or very near, touching makes a big difference.
Different bottom shell lengths... I noticed that the copper painted gdna was considerably taller than others and that the top magnets didn't have that nice snug magnetic pull when putting the top on.
The 3 shells on the left side need trimming. So I started with the tallest one and took about 1/8" off the top end with a wobbly disk sander. Almost a disaster but a hand file rescued it... Will try another trimming method on the others.
I've not seen much reference to others dealing with this and since half of my shells are too tall it makes me think the odds of needing a top trim are pretty good. Getting the magnets so they are just at, or very near, touching makes a big difference.
For the couple I've made I took a piece of glass with wet/dry sandpaper of various grits on it and inverted the body and or cap and did it the hard way keeping the sanding flushed with water. Works good, just laborious.
Orders were for 2 each and were for the ring version. Each batch contained different lengths. Some measurements; 80.9, 80.4, 80mm, 78.8mm and that one I cut down is now 79.9mm (could have a bit more taken off).
I wonder how putting an o-ring on bottom and tapping an air hole in the side of a cannon tip would work. Any other non rebuildable atty suggestions?
But of course! I didn't really keep track so my best guess is the rear and front left are SW. Pretty sure the stained/dirty one is a Sculpteo. My source uncertainty is with the empty hammer paint and the way tall copper shell. For sure the SW internals have required way more fitting effort.
My gold shell is going to get stripped again... that 24K gold paint just isn't doing it for me. The good news is I scored a tote full of DuraCoat paints ... the bad news is I read somewhere here (thinking it was bap) said he had some issues with getting it to stick to plastic. A bottle of flex additive in the tote might help keep the paint slightly more flexible to match the plastic. Guess one of these days I'll get time to see first hand how it stacks up against the finishes I've tried so far. Oh boy... what color to choose?
- Status
Similar threads
