I meant that his post you quoted could have got himself banned and he wouldn't get messages through ECF anymore.
Printed DNA30 Bottom Feeder
- Thread starter gdeal
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I meant that his post you quoted could have got himself banned and he wouldn't get messages through ECF anymore.
gdeal, LOL, I was wondering if anyone was going to catch that, I've since tightened that connection up.
I'm honored that you blame me for your obsession, BTW, I blame you for me wanting to create 3D mod products! So I guess we're even!
Karma is a great thing, right?
Drunk_J, I agree, that issue also concerned me. I'll get the Dremel and grind the solder back so the nut sits nice and flush on the washer. Would the electric grease you get with automotive tail lights work too? If not, I'll go by OSH tomorrow and pick up some DeOxIt.
Thanks so much for help
Looks electrically routed ok
What gauge wire did you use for power leads?
TyCreek, Cool! I used the wire that came from the tibs gdeal BF parts co-op. I know that the wire was intended for the DNA30, but I so hope it's still acceptable for the DNA40
EDIT: Thanks for your feedback!
Thanks guys! I took out my calipers and measured the wire I used, and it measured out at about 1mm. Will that work?
Well it's officially a Small Family The Green White & Red holds a special meaning with Me
A really big Thanks to Gdeal & everyone else who contributed to this project It was a load of fun
[/URL][/IMG]
The Green White & Red holds a special meaning with Me A really big Thanks to Gdeal & everyone else who contributed to this project It was a load of fun
i might be wrong but i could have sworn bap thought that wire would be ok to use for a dna40 ................
The Co-Op wire was 20ga and not real flexible. So I'm guessing thicker stranded cores and might work ok with the DNA40. If were me I'd give it a try since it's all soldered up and ready Cutting it out and replacing wires later would of course suck but it's doable ... My guess is that it will work fine.
That said... I got extra of that 20ga wire and haven't used it for anything other than giving it away. I simply didn't like the feel of the wire and shielding, most likely because I'm so used to working with noodle soft high stranded silicone shielded type wire.
Cutting it out and replacing wires later would of course suck but it's doable ... My guess is that it will work fine. That said... I got extra of that 20ga wire and haven't used it for anything other than giving it away. I simply didn't like the feel of the wire and shielding, most likely because I'm so used to working with noodle soft high stranded silicone shielded type wire.
I don't remember the coop coming with wiresThe Co-Op wire was 20ga and not real flexible. So I'm guessing thicker stranded cores and might work ok with the DNA40. If were me I'd give it a try since it's all soldered up and ready
That said... I got extra of that 20ga wire and haven't used it for anything other than giving it away. I simply didn't like the feel of the wire and shielding, most likely because I'm so used to working with noodle soft high stranded silicone shielded type wire.
Thanks for the tip on the DeOxit!
Some questions about the 510 connection...
1) Are you supposed to glue the 510 into the top cap? Mine seems to spin in the hole when you try to take the atty back off.
2) Anyone try using an actual wire connector rather than a brass washer for the 510? Something like this perhaps...
This has probably been covered somewhere before (I have read ALL of these at one point but don't remember) Sorry ...
Some questions about the 510 connection...
1) Are you supposed to glue the 510 into the top cap? Mine seems to spin in the hole when you try to take the atty back off.
2) Anyone try using an actual wire connector rather than a brass washer for the 510? Something like this perhaps...
This has probably been covered somewhere before (I have read ALL of these at one point but don't remember) Sorry ...
I can't comment as to gluing the 510, but as far as the terminal... yes. It will work if you have one that fits. One thing I did do in addition to soldering it on was to sand the terminal down to expose the bare copper.... it helped eliminate the slight voltage drop.
I don't remember the coop coming with wires
I'm guessing it was this one: Odds n Ends II Coop CO-OP
Was cut in about 1' lengths for however many feet selected ... sort of a stiff wire.
...2) Anyone try using an actual wire connector rather than a brass washer for the 510? Something like this perhaps...
Yes...works well here.
Well I got my first gdeal DNA40 all put together, and to my dismay, it is afflicted with the jacked up display. I've tried to reboot it, but no luck.
I'm so bummed
My first DNA40 build, which I put in a FT enclosure, is working fine after 1 week of use. I still have two other DNA40 to work with. I sure hope they're okay. Wish me luck
Thanks everyone for your help and encouragement!
I'm so bummed
My first DNA40 build, which I put in a FT enclosure, is working fine after 1 week of use. I still have two other DNA40 to work with. I sure hope they're okay. Wish me luck
Thanks everyone for your help and encouragement!
gdeal, Thanks! LOL
I couldn't agree more about building the second one. I'm really looking forward to it. Unfortunately, an on-call part-time job, looking for a full-time job, kids going back to school, and life in general will for sure get it in the way. Oh well, It Is, What It Is (IIWII)
I don't remember the coop coming with wires
that's because you didn't participate!
i am happy to say though that a few of the squonkers did build a tibs
right, gdeal? I was a stupid at the time. You know. Buying ready made modsthat's because you didn't participate!
i am happy to say though that a few of the squonkers did build a tibs
- Status
Similar threads
