Printed Mechanical Bottom Feeder Mod

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Distroshack

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Well I think I used the wrong firing screw because it doesn't go up high enough to lock the button when I turn it clockwise. There was actually a choice of two in the hardware kit I got and I used the longer one. My mistake. Anyway, when I change it I'm going to try the switch with magnets rather than a spring. Any opinions on how well a magnetic button works?
 
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SkinyFatMan

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You need to point me to where you got that done. Now I want a glowing night vape Peko!!! What a wonderful idea.

And Sean Moore, yeah, i know about the ingredients in monster. I'm addicted though and cannot stop. Especially when I only pay a dollar a can. Most gas stations round here have them marked at $2.50 per can!

Monster and DIY fruit loop filled Pekos are my daily.

-Mark
I just went down to my local hydrographics place and asked them to do a glowing blue base paint with a cool graphic on it, and this is what came back.

It took a couple of weeks and a few tries with different types of glow paint, but it looks pretty good. There are a few spots that didn't turn out so great due to using an untested glow paint with hydrographics, but I'm going to try to see what I can do with it.
 
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pwheeler

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Looks like my Sculpteo order will be here tomorrow, finally. It's funny, I never did get any explanation for the awful delay. I'll just be glad to have it. My Shapeways order is in production, so I also had to order an internal kit from Livewire. Love seeing the finish jobs on other's Pekos. I'm happy if I can get a successful paint job on mine. I would like to maybe send one in for cerakote. But that may wait until later. My vape budget is pretty well toast.
 
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strongdad

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Here she is, my first peko:

56eb4a157a742a75666e5586ac4e0bd3.jpg


3 coats of Tamiya gunmetal and the same again of plastikote clear matt.

I struggled putting it together and kept losing the little nuts, but all good now. Hardest part was getting the button to work properly. Is it meant to lock?

Turned out really nice! My first print should be here Monday and I plan something similar. Hope mine turns out as well as yours did!
 
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gdeal

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Distroshack

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You probably used the FD classic thumbs screw. If you use that thumb screw, it needs to be made the same size as the slotted one in the kit. The magnets work better if you do the wire mod for the fire pin. Most of the push resistance comes from the two solder lugs. In the pure mechanical version, the spring is really just a safety feature.
Lol yep it sounds like I definitely did that. No problem I'll switch them over when I get a spare minute. Thanks for the advice about the magnets
 
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Hey guys! So I just picked up a peko/freakshow mini used as backup for my lp reo and I'm having some trouble:-/
Is the 510 supposed to be adjustable? My connector has some up/down play to it, but after tinkering for a bit I just can't seem to get the 510 pin to budge.
More importantly, is there a trick to adjusting the button throw? Mine is really hit or miss with whether or not it'll fire and I'm pretty sure it's due to how short the button throw is.
I've read the build docs, but couldn't find a fix.
Fwiw, when it's working this thing is awesome!
 
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gdeal

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The 510 is adjustable. There are two point of adjustment. The vented screw and the white delrin insulator.The screw can be used for minor adjustments both ways. If your atty is sitting too high. go behind the 510 and unscrew the delrin a turn or two. Then check how your atty sits. If good retighten the nut as well.

Button throw Adjustment. Take you battery out. look where the fire pin is sitting. Too low, sticking out too far? Turn the fire button clockwise. To high, cant get your device to fire? Turn the button counter clockwise. After you make the adjustment put your battery back in. Make sure your are not auto firing with a fire pin that is too low. IF you are good, you can make minor turns to tweak the throw length to where you like it.
Thanks for the speedy response! I got the button throw sorted(was cranked down tighter than I thought) and now I'm just fighting with the 510. Right now it's sitting too low and all my connections are weak or non existent.
When I try to raise the vented screw the whole 510 assembly turns as well. Is there a certain secondary piece I should be holding?
 
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gdeal

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Ok.. first tighten up the 510. Put quarter in the slot. and then go underneath and tighten down the big brass nut. This is what locks the 510 into place. Then adjust your vented screw.

]
took apart and reseated the 510 assembly and it works great now! Thanks again for all the help:) already looking at a 26650 kit and an 18650 kit as backup for the girlfriends reo��

wO596zbt.jpg
 
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BobC

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Here she is, my first peko:

56eb4a157a742a75666e5586ac4e0bd3.jpg


3 coats of Tamiya gunmetal and the same again of plastikote clear matt.

I struggled putting it together and kept losing the little nuts, but all good now. Hardest part was getting the button to work properly. Is it meant to lock?

Distro, what atty is that?
 

Distroshack

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Distro, what atty is that?
Its a cheap atomic 'style' atty from our favourite chinese site [emoji1]

Actually arrived in a week and took less than 5 mins to bf mod. Just knock out the centre pin in a vice, dremel a couple of slots in the pin and hammer the pin back into the Atty. Works great and has an afc
 

kingdal

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You probably used the FD classic thumbs screw. If you use that thumb screw, it needs to be made the same size as the slotted one in the kit. /QUOTE]

What needs to be done to the FD thumb screw? Sorry, I never bought the slotted screw so don't know what it looks like. Getting ready to build my peko. Thanks!
 

gdeal

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Distroshack

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Bob it's the atomic. Never occurred to me to mention it since I know you like small sized atties. It is sold as bf by reosmods. I think it is the reomizer 3 if I'm not mistaken.
The rm4. Catfish atties will also mod one for you, and the ehpro version is the best. But tbh if you have a dremel-like its a simple job to bf it yourself
 
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