Watch that FDV 510 screw real close. Even slathered in De-ox-it, it turned black on me inside of 45 days or so. The plating on it is horrendous... I haven't had any problems though with the supplied screw from the kits from the co-op.
There is definitely more to clean than just that.I have had my peko for a bit now. And while I like it, its just missing that POW when I fire her up. Other then cleaning the pin that makes contact with the battery is there any thing I can to lower the drop? I am open to modifications.
Do the lugs at the 510. In fact, do all any other spots where it has electical connections that weren't soldered. Clean 'em with some metal polish, then apply DeoxIT before re-assembly.I have had my peko for a bit now. And while I like it, its just missing that POW when I fire her up. Other then cleaning the pin that makes contact with the battery is there any thing I can to lower the drop? I am open to modifications.
I have to do this for my 4 pekos. Will take me forever if I remember how to reassemble them...Do the lugs at the 510. In fact, do all any other spots where it has electical connections that weren't soldered. Clean 'em with some metal polish, then apply DeoxIT before re-assembly.
All of mine are wired. It makes a HUGE difference, especially when cleaning time comes around!
Do you know where I can find instruction on how to do the wire mod? I have some hi strand silicone wire already, but not sure exactly what to do. Also, if the leaf spring on the bottom goes bad, it has to be unsoldered and redone again, right?
I can make up some instructions for you. I have a peculiar way of doing it though. I actually use the small solder tab as the positive contact, but I cut it shorter and drill a new hole in it first. I do this specifically so It can be taken completely apart and cleaned or adjusted easily. Yes, if the leaf spring goes bad or gets crushed, it needs to be replaced. However, based on Rossum's tape mod, I chose to use a thin cellulose foam stuffed under the contact, and it has kept it good through a couple slight tumbles so far. Some medium hard foam should be fine to help keep it in place when its dropped, and should be easily found at a hardware store (maybe window sealing foam?). It just needs to be sort of stuffed underneath so that it puts some tension on the contact.
I'd appreciate some instructions for myself and Tagi would like some too. I'd sure like to keep my Pekos going good. They go with me every day to work, but the cleaning and maintenance seems to be the hard part. I'd like to eliminate some of the hassle.
And I have done the Rossum tape mod, so I'm not so worried anymore about those bottom springs. And I did buy 10 of those springs from the vendor and only used 1 that actually broke.
Interested as well. I have some various sizes from a DNA 200 build.
I have mine here at work and when transferring the atty to a different mod I started looking at the peko. I have some well patinaed bits all over.
Also any tips on removing the tarnish on the little nuts? I have metal polish but thats going to be a PITA with those lil boogers
If I were going that route, I'd have to shave down the positive pin insulator a gnat's whisker or so to be able to take the thing apart. Then I could clean the 510's lug and get all the juice out from when I over squonk the FISB'S.I'm sure I've posted it before, but: These joints don't need cleaning:
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